Just bought a Grafik Eye - any tricks or suggestions? - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 69 Old 07-11-2005, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I went to my local Graybar today and they didn't have any deep 4-gang gang-boxes but they did have a 5 gang part "H5BD 3/4 1"... for $51.34 plus $11.52 for the mud ring.

I passed on it and will try another electrical supply tomorrow to see if they have what I need (and if they are more reasonable on the prices).
$20 sounds a lot more reasonable.

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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post #62 of 69 Old 07-11-2005, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Well it sounded like a really good deal...

I received my Grafik Eye today (that was listed on ebay as a IA series / GRX-3504) and opened it up to discover an MR series/GRX-3104 :-(.

I've emailed the seller to see what we can do, hopefully he just sent me the wrong unit and he has an IA series unit on the shelf, if not I will try to return it and get the unit I need elsewhere, I really need (want) the 1% adjustments of the IA/3500 series.

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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post #63 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 03:56 AM
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I have the 3104 and find the fade adjustments perfect. I can't imagine 1% capability would really make much difference.
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post #64 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 12:55 PM
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I bought gangable metal boxes at Lowe's if that helps. The sides of the boxes are removable so that you can attach them together and it ended up very sturdy. I had a 4 gang plastic box and it flexed too much to my liking. The plastic box could have been supported on both sides, but in order to bring the box out enough for furring strips, the left support tab would have to mounted between the sheetrock or over it. The gangable metal boxes were able to be mounted so that they were flush with the furring strips on the wall. There is plenty of room for the GE in the box, but I doubt everything could be wired in that box alone.

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots. Me being one of them at times.

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post #65 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 07:06 PM
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I suggested earlier that Lutron discontinued 2 feed Grafik Eyes due to our friends in the electrical business. That is only partly correct. An other reason was changes in NEC that made the 2 feed GE, especially in Europe, more difficult to certify. 2. They made significant improvements to the electronics ( filtering , inductors, some additional circuitry for dimming ) that made room on the circuit board tight, and 3. NY--which was among the primary reasons a 2 feed GE existed ( until recently NY was governed by local electrical code that mandated all lighting circuits could not exceed 15A. Now that NY follows NEC and 20A lighting circuits are permitted there was less justification to continue to market the 2 feed GE.

Lutron will no longer accept special orders for 2 zone Grafik Eyes. Now if you need to exceed 16A you will need to use a NT-GRX-PB.

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post #66 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMILANI
I have the 3104 and find the fade adjustments perfect. I can't imagine 1% capability would really make much difference.
The MR (3100) has approx 14-15 steps between off and 100%.
This equals about 7% resolution.

The IA (3500) has 100 steps... which is one percent resolution.

Does it make a difference??

I agree that anyone would be hard pressed to notice a difference during fades.
After all the fade time will determine how smooth that is, and 7% steps are nearly undetectible in a ramp under 1 minute.

The largest difference is in setting the light levels, ESPECIALLY the very low settings for scenes where you may have a projector on.

Trust me that having 28 steps on the IA/3500 in the place of the first 4 steps on your unit gives a much better chance to find the perfect setting for the aisle lights and any other lights you want to leave on very low while the movie is playing.

Macmedic, I would not accept that unit since you thought you were buying a unit worth over $100 more. I would hold out for a replacement or a refund that includes shipping cost.

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post #67 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxarch
I bought gangable metal boxes at Lowe's if that helps. The sides of the boxes are removable so that you can attach them together and it ended up very sturdy. I had a 4 gang plastic box and it flexed too much to my liking. The plastic box could have been supported on both sides, but in order to bring the box out enough for furring strips, the left support tab would have to mounted between the sheetrock or over it. The gangable metal boxes were able to be mounted so that they were flush with the furring strips on the wall. There is plenty of room for the GE in the box, but I doubt everything could be wired in that box alone.
Gangable boxes are not as tall on the inside of the box.

The box is only as high as the LOWEST part of the mounting tabs, where the masonry boxes and others are full height of the opening.

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post #68 of 69 Old 07-12-2005, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I heard from the seller and he has admitted that it was an honest mistake and will send me the correct unit overnight at his expense.

Once I see it on my doorstep my faith in humanity will be restored ;-) and I can proceed with my construction.

I know I could install the gang box and then install the GE once the sheetrock is up but since I don't do this type of thing for a living I would like to test things prior to finishing the walls just in case I did something stupid in my wiring or placement and to see if the zones I set make sense.

I will test each leg with a simple switch first but I want to see how the lights blend together to see if I need to move anything.

I have a feeling I may need to add a couple more can lights (even though my wife thinks I'm crazy to install that much lighting in a room that "will be dark when we're using it")

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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post #69 of 69 Old 07-16-2005, 01:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I received the replacement unit and it appears to be the IA version (according to the sticker).

Is there any way to visually distinguish between the various GE models (IA vs MR) if the sticker is removed?

To my untrained eye the only visual difference between the MR and the IA is what's on the sticker. I know I could test functionality but I'm not quite at that stage of my build yet.

Any suggestions?

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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