the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 1434 Old 11-15-2007, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by page1 View Post

Don't forget there are quite a few new addtions and changes in the qs:

From: CEPro.com...

-An astronomical clock has also been added to the Grafik Eye, allowing integrators to set schedules for activating scenes.

This is a HUGE upgrade. The GRX-PRG you need with the earlier series costs as much as a 3000 series GE all by itself.

And remember that if you want to program it, the QS has a USB port to plug directly into your PC. (That's another feature that was approximated by the GRX-PRG, using RS-232 (serial) instead of USB.) Oddly, though, I find very little mention of it in the docs.

Given the prices I've seen for the QS series, I don't see a downside.

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post #452 of 1434 Old 11-15-2007, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post

Is the installation of the GRX-2404 the same as the 3000 series? I can't find the manual for the 2000 series on the Lutron site, which is very strange. The 2404 is on order and I just wanted to give my installer the instruction manual for how to run the wiring.

Strange, I can't find any either.

The 3000 can't be much different than the 2000. Afaik, the only difference is that the 2000 lacks the low-voltage interface.

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post #453 of 1434 Old 11-15-2007, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF View Post

Given the prices I've seen for the QS series, I don't see a downside.

It seems that not many retailers are selling the QS series yet though.
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post #454 of 1434 Old 11-17-2007, 03:36 PM
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I wish they'd put an RF on these instead of IR, i cant hit it with IR unless i turn around

Anyone found a workaround besides running an eye over there and trying to get it into the box so its not visible?
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post #455 of 1434 Old 11-17-2007, 03:45 PM
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I'm hoping to use an IR blaster mounted across the room to hit the IR eye. SpeakerCraft has a system I'm probably going to use.

Design by Rives...dollars by The Bogg

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post #456 of 1434 Old 11-18-2007, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dseliger View Post

I wish they'd put an RF on these instead of IR, i cant hit it with IR unless i turn around

Anyone found a workaround besides running an eye over there and trying to get it into the box so its not visible?

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post #457 of 1434 Old 11-26-2007, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

It seems that not many retailers are selling the QS series yet though.

Not many of the online dirtbags are selling them yet....

I know of at least three Authorized Lutron Dealers who spend a lot of time here, and answered countless Grafik Eye threads...
Then a couple of us banded together to compile them into this thread, and continually kept on top of it to make sure that the users here are AVS would have a resource to go to...

In addition to copy/paste from a few other threads, we spent a ton of our own time finding and posting photos, posting links to Application Notes and manuals, and generating HTML tags to make it as easy as possible to follow....

Basically, go to the first page or two...
Dennis Erskine at Design Cinema Privee, Alan at Audible Solutions, or I would all be happy to help you pick out a new QS Series Grafik Eye and whatever accessories you need.

I have done some Lutron horse-trading with DMF to get him the See Touch keypads he wanted, and I am sure he would be happy to vouch that I am fair to deal with.

Send any of us a PM with any questions.

We don't generally compete against each other, so don't expect to contact all three and see a price war.
If I quote you a price, I will CC Dennis and Alan on the reply out of courtesy.

In addition, AV Science (who hosts this whole thing) are listed as a Lutron dealer...
You could always PM Alan or David as well.

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post #458 of 1434 Old 11-26-2007, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post

I'm hoping to use an IR blaster mounted across the room to hit the IR eye. SpeakerCraft has a system I'm probably going to use.

Using flood blasters is an acceptable plan, but you need to know that it is the least reliable.

Direct button presses, or MUX communication is best, followed by an IR emitter under (or on) the panel, and then line-of-sight IR from a remote or a floor emitter. The chance for a failed command is doubled when you are relying on an IR repeater network which itself relies on line-of-sight IR to receive the signal in the first place.

You may want to get a couple of those IR flood blasters and have them in different areas aimed toward the GRX. Basically, anywhere where you can easily get the wire. Even if there is one significant obstancle to pulling the wire directly to the wallbox, you can still extend the leads and place the blasters somewhere where they will have a decent line of sight.

The primary reason I like to use two (when I can't choose a better method) is that at least a couple of the lighting commands are generally in a macros...

If there happens to be a party guest, kid, dog, UFO, etc. between the blaster and the GRX, it will not receive the command and the lights will not fade down (as in a "start movie" macro), or come back on (as in a "pause movie" or "clean up" macro).

If there are two blasters coming at the GRX from different angles, then the second blaster may hit it if the first one is blocked...

Another consideration, if this is a living space or media room and there are windows, be sure that sunlight does not fall on the face of the GRX.

It will basically "jam" the IR receiver in most cases, and it ios very likely that the receiver will not be able to distinguish the IR signal from a control system vs. the spurious infrared light from the sunlight.

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post #459 of 1434 Old 11-26-2007, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF View Post

Strange, I can't find any either.

The 3000 can't be much different than the 2000. Afaik, the only difference is that the 2000 lacks the low-voltage interface.

The 2400 series looks and wires the same as the 3000 series, except the 2400 doesn't have a MUX connection (as you clearly pointed out!).
Other than that, you still want to use the deep metal boxes, and you still need a 2 gang for a 2 zone, a 3 gang for a 2 zone, and a 4 gang for a 4 OR 6 zone.

The only secondary keypad control for the 2400 series is the NT-GRX-1S Entrance Control, which gives Scene 1 and OFF only, you only get the 4 scenes and All off, and also the fade times are fixed.

The decision to choose the 1S control, as well as the other differences between the 3000 and the 2400, are clearly outlined on the first page of this thread.

These and a few other reasons are why this series is the cheapest GRX, but that is just fine for many people!!

Just know what you are buying, because many sellers just take the money and don't bother to help you figure out what it is that you are buying.

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post #460 of 1434 Old 12-04-2007, 12:00 PM
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I just had my Grafik Eye QSG-6P120 installed and I love it. On the strength of the recommendations here, I chose it over the GRX-3106 so thanks to everybody that helped. I don't think it makes sense to buy the 3106 anymore. I'm able to control the unit with direct IR from my Harmony 890, but does anyone have any advice on how to to control it via the hardwire IR ports and the wireless extender? I tried simply cutting off the IR ends, stripping the ends and placing the two wires in the provided IR ports of the Grafik Eye and the minijack into the RF extender, but this doesn't seem to work. Any suggestions as to what cabling I should be using? Any help greatly appreciated.
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post #461 of 1434 Old 12-06-2007, 12:53 PM
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I am installing a few GE's around my house during a major remodel; "I" am the contractor.

For the downstairs hall I need to install a GRX-3x03 (1 or 5). When I read the Grafik Eye thread a couple of months ago, someone posted information about an electrical box in which to install the 3x06. The box was larger (wider) than normal and needed a mud ring. Well, that box worked perfect! Plenty of room to set the ganged neutral wires on one side and the ganged grounds on the other with plenty of room for the hot leads. Perfect..., well, almost perfect, except for the mud ring being for 5/8" sheetrock instead of 1/2", but why quibble. It is most certainly MUCH better than the plastic box my electrician used for the 3106 in my media room when he installed it for me a couple of years ago. There is NO room in that box. Now "I" need to figure out how to replace it from the rear when I have that wall open....

Anyways...

I searched and searched the thread for a similar recommendation to use with the 3x03. Would anyone know the model numbers for the two parts (box and ring), if such creatures exist?

Thanks...

Oh, in case anyone cares:

3106 + 3102 for the master bath (stored in an adjacent closet) controlled by the 18 (or is it 15) button NTGRX remote station IN the bathroom and another 10 button remote station in the master bedroom next to the door to the bathroom.

3106 in the media room

3104 in the dining room

3x03 in the downstairs hall (stored in a remote closet) controlled by a ???? at both ends of the hall.

3x06 in the kitchen (planned) with at least 4 remote stations.

3x06 in the family room (planned)

3x06 in the new addition (planned) with at least two remote stations)

Again, while I have anyone's attention...

Before I start buttoning up the walls, I need to purchase some PELV wire to connect the remote stations to the GE's in question. I read recommendations for Lutron, Belden and Liberty as suppliers. Is there any difference between them? Is one "better" than the other or recommended over the others? Although I am price sensitive, spending a couple of dollars extra now for something "better", or provides "something" extra down the road, is not an issue.

Thanks for ALL the information. It has come in useful many, many times.
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post #462 of 1434 Old 12-07-2007, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
"Lutron used to, but no longer sells a GE that can be supplied by two different circuits. If the wiring load on the GE exceeds the 1800W (approx) limit of a 15A supply, then a 20A supply must be used. If the load exceeds a single 20A supply, then external power boosters (NGRX-PB) can be used to offload zones. (The power booster is rated at 2000W, so 12,000W can be dimmed by a single 3x06!) Each power booster may have its own supply."

This can still be special ordered from Lutron, however it doesn't change any of the specs on the GrafikEye it only allows you to feed from 2-circuits.

Also the Interconnect Cable for most residential uses needs only be rated 300v, for commercial uses over 250v it should be 600v rated. You will find somewhere in the NEC all wire in the same box that is not seperated/divided must be rated at the highest available voltage.

Otherwise great source for general GE info. Love your scene anology.

New Grafik Eye QS series are shipping, so you'll hve more to add t the confusion of this. I sell and stock a lt of the items mentioned here so feel free to contact me for any Lutron or Regular Electrical Items I also have the Belden and Lutron wire by the foot on my website hankselectric.net

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post #463 of 1434 Old 12-07-2007, 09:23 AM
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Question then, can I find the correct cable for interconnecting a GRX-CIR-WH 18-2 or 18-4 at Home depot or at lowes. If I understand correctly it needs to be CL2 and rated at either 300v or 600v. I only need at the most 10 - 20 ft. Thanks
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post #464 of 1434 Old 12-07-2007, 12:21 PM
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Well, I went to Lowes during lunch and on their board in the wire cutting section they had rj600 18-2 listed which is rated at 600v unfortunately it stated not available in this area. I asked a guy in the department and he said that it means that they don't sell it by the foot. When I showed him what I wanted from the board he said "oh that's basically lamp wire, it's rubber wrapped wire" I replied that it needed to be CL2 rated though. He replied that he didn't have it available. Someone have some of the Belden or other alternatives available?

Ooops just saw you last sentence spiwrx
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post #465 of 1434 Old 12-07-2007, 02:00 PM
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I have about 230 ft of Liberty wire catalog number Lutron-GRN left over from my project. I would be willing to sell it by the foot at $0.30 per foot plus shipping.

 

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post #466 of 1434 Old 12-10-2007, 09:08 AM
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Thanks for the offer sieberlf,

I might need a masonry box too, so it might be easier to go through spiwrx. If not I'll be in touch via pm. Thanks again.
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post #467 of 1434 Old 12-15-2007, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

New Grafik Eye QS series are shipping, so you'll hve more to add t the confusion of this. I sell and stock a lt of the items mentioned here so feel free to contact me for any Lutron or Regular Electrical Items I also have the Belden and Lutron wire by the foot on my website h*.net

Paul, whether or not you are aware of it, this post is in violation of this forum's rules.

Quote:


Are you a Dealer/Retail/Trunk Slammer or Installer??
No mentioning of sales. Do not play the game, I have this projector coming in this week or sitting in inventory. Or I have this hanging in my store. This lets people know you are a dealer in a about face way which translates to sales. Do not post a signature promoting your business.

Also, having a blatant solicitation on your third post here is a bit tacky.

People like Dennis, Alan, and I built this thread as a resource, and we do not openly and obviously solicit sales... When you do, it isw the forum equivalent of walking into another home center, standing in the electrical aisle, and handing out your business cards.

AV Science sells Lutron products and the wire, boxes, and accessories needed to install it, as do the people who created this thread and answered the design, installation, and control system interfacing questions on these components for years.

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post #468 of 1434 Old 12-15-2007, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREENGA View Post

I am installing a few GE's around my house during a major remodel; "I" am the contractor.

For the downstairs hall I need to install a GRX-3x03 (1 or 5). When I read the Grafik Eye thread a couple of months ago, someone posted information about an electrical box in which to install the 3x06. The box was larger (wider) than normal and needed a mud ring. Well, that box worked perfect! Plenty of room to set the ganged neutral wires on one side and the ganged grounds on the other with plenty of room for the hot leads. Perfect..., well, almost perfect, except for the mud ring being for 5/8" sheetrock instead of 1/2", but why quibble. It is most certainly MUCH better than the plastic box my electrician used for the 3106 in my media room when he installed it for me a couple of years ago. There is NO room in that box. Now "I" need to figure out how to replace it from the rear when I have that wall open....

Anyways...

I searched and searched the thread for a similar recommendation to use with the 3x03. Would anyone know the model numbers for the two parts (box and ring), if such creatures exist?

Thanks...

Oh, in case anyone cares:

3106 + 3102 for the master bath (stored in an adjacent closet) controlled by the 18 (or is it 15) button NTGRX remote station IN the bathroom and another 10 button remote station in the master bedroom next to the door to the bathroom.

3106 in the media room

3104 in the dining room

3x03 in the downstairs hall (stored in a remote closet) controlled by a ???? at both ends of the hall.

3x06 in the kitchen (planned) with at least 4 remote stations.

3x06 in the family room (planned)

3x06 in the new addition (planned) with at least two remote stations)

Again, while I have anyone's attention...

Before I start buttoning up the walls, I need to purchase some PELV wire to connect the remote stations to the GE's in question. I read recommendations for Lutron, Belden and Liberty as suppliers. Is there any difference between them? Is one "better" than the other or recommended over the others? Although I am price sensitive, spending a couple of dollars extra now for something "better", or provides "something" extra down the road, is not an issue.

Thanks for ALL the information. It has come in useful many, many times.

GREENGA,
While this will certainly work, tying that many GRXes into a patched whole house lighting control is not really considered a best practice anymore.

10 years ago, that was one of the few options that existed, but today a combination centralized/wallbox whole house system offers a lot more flexibility. In addition, these systems offer a significantly cleaner design from the aesthetic standpoint, with fewer multi-gang wallboxes in the living areas.

From the standpoint of pricing, the multiple GRX configuration is only cheaper in small systems. The dedicated whole house options such as Lutron's HomeWorks, RadioRa, LiteTouch, Vantage, CentraLite, etc. are options which a good integrator could implement for the same or less money.

If you are programming this yourself, and plan to create many whole-home scenes which travel across multiple GRXes, you will soon realize the benefit of having a PC programming that can easily address any load into any scene and access through any keypad location.

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post #469 of 1434 Old 12-15-2007, 06:18 PM
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This thread was invaluable to me. Thanks to everyone that posted. It makes Lutron's site and the manual look like a joke.

I did have trouble trying to get a 3 1/2" 4 gang masonary box, and ended up using 4 1 gang boxes (interconnected). Worked out well with no problems.

I do have a question. I have read probably 80% of this thread but not the whole thing and apologize if this has been asked. I am running 21 lights in my theater, with GU10? Halogen bulbs. 18 controlled by my Grafik Eye. The amount of heat from these lights seems ridiculous. I have been seeing LED replacement bulbs for $10 a pop and am really considering them. Will my GRX-3104 work properly with an LED load? I thought I had read that the GE needs at least a 25w load per zone to function properly but can't seem to find the information or even if that spec is correct. Here is my set up:

Zone 1: 10 lights
Zone 2: 8 lights
Zone 3: 4 Sconces/Flame lights
Zone 4: 2 Seating lights

Thanks, Ross

**Disclaimer** The information provided above is my opinion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opinion
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post #470 of 1434 Old 12-15-2007, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross E View Post

This thread was invaluable to me. Thanks to everyone that posted. It makes Lutron's site and the manual look like a joke.

I did have trouble trying to get a 3 1/2" 4 gang masonary box, and ended up using 4 1 gang boxes (interconnected). Worked out well with no problems.

I do have a question. I have read probably 80% of this thread but not the whole thing and apologize if this has been asked. I am running 21 lights in my theater, with GU10? Halogen bulbs. 18 controlled by my Grafik Eye. The amount of heat from these lights seems ridiculous. I have been seeing LED replacement bulbs for $10 a pop and am really considering them. Will my GRX-3104 work properly with an LED load? I thought I had read that the GE needs at least a 25w load per zone to function properly but can't seem to find the information or even if that spec is correct. Here is my set up:

Zone 1: 10 lights
Zone 2: 8 lights
Zone 3: 4 Sconces/Flame lights
Zone 4: 2 Seating lights

Thanks, Ross

I was curious about the LED bulbs too. I have 3" halogen cans that use bulb (i think) MR16. Im curious if they dim properly with the grafik eye.

As far as the minimum wattage, i guess you could always leave one halogen 50w in the chain, that would take care of the minimum wattage if it works.
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post #471 of 1434 Old 12-15-2007, 07:41 PM
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Correction... I think I have the same 3" can lights. MR16 bulb rang a bell and I believe my lights use the same bulb.

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post #472 of 1434 Old 12-16-2007, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsprance View Post

I was curious about the LED bulbs too. I have 3" halogen cans that use bulb (i think) MR16. Im curious if they dim properly with the grafik eye.

LEDs are solid state devices, and use a "driver" in place of a transformer on a traditional low voltage lamp or a ballast on a fluorescent lamp.

There are four basic types of drivers, some drivers can be dimmed, some cannot. And there are different methods required for the different driver types...

Confused? Don't fret, so is everyone else.

Lutron has a document on LED dimming, and this is a great place to start your research:
http://www.lutron.com/applicationnotes/app138.pdf

Make sure the manufacturer signs off on the lamp being dimmed BEFORE you connect it to a dimmer.

Since there are so many potential variables, consult with Lutron tech support as well as the support staff for company making the lamps to ensure that you are implementing your lighting control correctly.

Quote:
As far as the minimum wattage, i guess you could always leave one halogen 50w in the chain, that would take care of the minimum wattage if it works.

It's not a good idea to mix load types on a single zone.

Lutron makes a device called the LUT-LBX which is a "synthetic" minimum load interface, which allows low wattage loads to be dimmed even when they are below the minimum dimmable load.

http://www.lutron.com/grafikeye/specs/LUT-LBXspec.pdf

PLEASE report back with the results of your LED experiments.
There are numerous companies offering LEDs, and this is a HOT topic in the lighting control World right now.

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post #473 of 1434 Old 12-21-2007, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cinemascope View Post

GREENGA,
While this will certainly work, tying that many GRXes into a patched whole house lighting control is not really considered a best practice anymore.

10 years ago, that was one of the few options that existed, but today a combination centralized/wallbox whole house system offers a lot more flexibility. In addition, these systems offer a significantly cleaner design from the aesthetic standpoint, with fewer multi-gang wallboxes in the living areas.

From the standpoint of pricing, the multiple GRX configuration is only cheaper in small systems. The dedicated whole house options such as Lutron's HomeWorks, RadioRa, LiteTouch, Vantage, CentraLite, etc. are options which a good integrator could implement for the same or less money.

If you are programming this yourself, and plan to create many whole-home scenes which travel across multiple GRXes, you will soon realize the benefit of having a PC programming that can easily address any load into any scene and access through any keypad location.


NOW you tell me...

I've been working on this for some time now and that is probably why the patchwork approach. Knowing where I was headed, whenever I saw a GRX/Ra, or wall station, go up on eBay, I would buy it and add it to the collection until I got to the room in question.

If I were starting from scratch at this time, I would go with something like Homeworks or the like. At this stage, I am in too deep to change direction. Perhaps in my next house. Now I need to get my hands on some of the Lutron-GRN (is it...?) or some equivalent.

And I am going to do the programming myself. (wish me luck )

Oh yes... To the original reason for posting. I found the appropriate Raco box, and mud ring, for the 3103's.
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post #474 of 1434 Old 12-23-2007, 06:02 AM
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I am giddy with my GE! Still haven't explored all the possibilities yet. I had no problem with fitting it in the box (which I thought was going to be difficult due to posts I had read in this thread).

Here is a small video that I put in my construction thread of the GE at work. Poor quality picture, and some artifact (blue lights blinking), but you get the picture, uhh video.


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post #475 of 1434 Old 01-04-2008, 01:33 PM
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I am currently in the wiring phase of my home theater. I was intially going with Maestro IR.
After reading this thread I am begining to question this decsision.
Here is what I have;
O O O
O I
O I
O O O

2
2

Zone 1 O = 460W 6 wall sconces\\2 cans (need on\\off and adjble fade rate)
Zone 2 I = 100W 2 cans above seating (need on\\off and adjble fade rate)
Zone 3 I = 200W 2 cans hall way outside theater (need on\\off)

Zone 2 will need 2 location dimmers

I have pronto pro TSU9600 remote with wifi extender and ir emitter outputs.

I was going to use 3 Maestro ir dimmers located on opoosite sides of the wall to eliminate IR crosstalk. However this drive me to use 3 seperate IR ports on my extender. Total cost $200

Thanks For any help you can give me
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post #476 of 1434 Old 01-04-2008, 01:50 PM
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I don't think you will be able to eliminate the IR beams from affecting dimmers you don't want them to. So even though it is alot more for the GE it will be a much neater, worry free install.

Bill
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post #477 of 1434 Old 01-04-2008, 05:24 PM
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What I dont understand is why cant the individual dimmers be controlled? For instance Grafix Eye 2000, 3 zones, 4 scenes. What if I wanted to control each zone independently? That would require 8 scenes.
If I buy the 3000 series I would need a wall stations for each zone. Is there a better way?
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post #478 of 1434 Old 01-04-2008, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by br007 View Post

What I dont understand is why cant the individual dimmers be controlled? For instance Grafix Eye 2000, 3 zones, 4 scenes. What if I wanted to control each zone independently? That would require 8 scenes.
If I buy the 3000 series I would need a wall stations for each zone. Is there a better way?

You can control each zone independently. The zones on their own dont count for a scene. A scene is just when you group the 4 zones together, say putting zone 1 on 10%, 2 on 30% etc.

To clarify, I use a MX-850 and a Harmony. I can hit dim all, bright all. Thats not a scene. I can turn any zone on or off, and adjust brightness. Those arent scenes.

Then I can also use the scences. My first scene is for before a movie. Stage lights on full, general cans on 50%, readling lights on 50%, sconce lights on full. Then I hit "Movie" scene (scene 2). All zones dim down to 0 over about 30 seconds. "Reading" scence turns on the cans above the seating.

The only time you need separate wall stations is if you want to have access to the lights other than the main unit, without using a remote, such as a control by an exit door. The wall stations act the same as the 5 buttons on the outside of the main unit. There is off, and 4 scenes.

**Disclaimer** The information provided above is my opinion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opinion
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post #479 of 1434 Old 01-04-2008, 06:54 PM
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Ross
If you look at the IR commands for Grafik Eye basic commands it list
SCENE OFF ,SCENE 1,SCENE 2,SCENE 3,SCENE 4,SCENE 5,SCENE 6,SCENE 7
SCENE 8,SCENE 9,SCENE 10,SCENE 11,SCENE 12,SCENE 13,SCENE 14,
SCENE 15,SCENE 16,MASTER LOWER,MASTER RAISE

If you add on the GRX-IRI you also get
ZONE 1 RAISE,ZONE 2 RAISE,ZONE 3 RAISE,ZONE 4 RAISE,ZONE 5 RAISE
ZONE 6 RAISE,ZONE 7 RAISE,ZONE 8 RAISE,ZONE 1 LOWER,ZONE 2 LOWER
ZONE 3 LOWER,ZONE 4 LOWER,ZONE 5 LOWER,ZONE 6 LOWER,ZONE 7 LOWER
ZONE 8 LOWER,SAVE SCENE

I have seen any IR code for ZONE 1 ON\\OFF, ZONE 2 ON\\OFF, etc
Do I need the wallstation per zone for that?
If all I needed was the Grafik Eye, that would be great.
Then I could use a 2 button companion swithes for 3 way.
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post #480 of 1434 Old 01-05-2008, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by br007 View Post

Ross
If you look at the IR commands for Grafik Eye basic commands it list
SCENE OFF ,SCENE 1,SCENE 2,SCENE 3,SCENE 4,SCENE 5,SCENE 6,SCENE 7
SCENE 8,SCENE 9,SCENE 10,SCENE 11,SCENE 12,SCENE 13,SCENE 14,
SCENE 15,SCENE 16,MASTER LOWER,MASTER RAISE

If you add on the GRX-IRI you also get
ZONE 1 RAISE,ZONE 2 RAISE,ZONE 3 RAISE,ZONE 4 RAISE,ZONE 5 RAISE
ZONE 6 RAISE,ZONE 7 RAISE,ZONE 8 RAISE,ZONE 1 LOWER,ZONE 2 LOWER
ZONE 3 LOWER,ZONE 4 LOWER,ZONE 5 LOWER,ZONE 6 LOWER,ZONE 7 LOWER
ZONE 8 LOWER,SAVE SCENE

I have seen any IR code for ZONE 1 ON\\OFF, ZONE 2 ON\\OFF, etc
Do I need the wallstation per zone for that?
If all I needed was the Grafik Eye, that would be great.
Then I could use a 2 button companion swithes for 3 way.

Sorry if I added any confusion. When I stated turn any zone off and on, I should have said...raise or lower any zone independently. The lowest setting is effectively off and fade up from there to full on. On my harmony the buttons to control each zone are labeled light 1 light 2 light 3 light 4. The scenes are labeled scenes 1-14. I don't use any wallstations, but you may be able to use wallstations to simply turn a zone off and on... someone else will have to chime in.

**Disclaimer** The information provided above is my opinion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opinion
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