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Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

eyekode's Avatar eyekode
10:30 AM Liked: 20
post #1411 of 1502
05-08-2014 | Posts: 300
Joined: Nov 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by orcarola25 View Post

Hello there,

I am getting to the tail end of my dedicated theater build and am almost set on purchasing a grafik eye qs 6 zone unit. Before I go for it, I had a quick question. I am sure users around the forums have controlled LED strip lights through their grafik eye. My setup consists of 4ea 16ft 5050 LED strips lights with 2 signal amplifiers and a 350watt power supply. My question is more for verification purposes as I think I know the answer.

Do I install the low voltage power supply powering the strip lights before the grafik eye input or after. I am assuming before because you wouldnt want to have a variable input voltage going into the power supply (i.e. when dimming the GE). Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks in

I have a very similar setup. I just use one channel for the led's and set the channel to not dim. So it works like a light switch. Works well for me!
Salem
DigitalJackson's Avatar DigitalJackson
12:09 PM Liked: 14
post #1412 of 1502
05-08-2014 | Posts: 143
Joined: Jun 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

That unit is not compatible with GE.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-NTGRX-1S-WH-Scene-Ntgrx-Remote/dp/B004XIEO2K

For your need I would recommend the 1S. It is basically an on off accessory switch. It will go to scene 1 from off and to off from any scene. If I recall correctly it uses regular electrical cable vs. the more difficult to find low voltage insulated cable.

Edit: I double checked, yeah it uses regular electrical cable.

That's exactly what I'm looking for ...thank you!
thestoneman's Avatar thestoneman
10:41 AM Liked: 34
post #1413 of 1502
05-11-2014 | Posts: 305
Joined: Apr 2008
Pretty sure I am going with a 6 Zone QS system. I haven't read the whole thread and I've spent some time on the Lutron site, but I can't seem to get definitive info on any additional parts I will need other than the control unit. I've been told that when you buy anything Lutron you are inevitably going to need to buy another part to make the system work.

I am controlling one room and would like a remote. Any help on a basic parts list would be great.
jautor's Avatar jautor
12:42 PM Liked: 444
post #1414 of 1502
05-11-2014 | Posts: 8,653
Joined: Jun 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

Pretty sure I am going with a 6 Zone QS system. I haven't read the whole thread and I've spent some time on the Lutron site, but I can't seem to get definitive info on any additional parts I will need other than the control unit. I've been told that when you buy anything Lutron you are inevitably going to need to buy another part to make the system work.

I am controlling one room and would like a remote. Any help on a basic parts list would be great.

As long as you figure out the correct part to order (base color, cover color, etc.), there's nothing else required... Assuming you have the deep 4-gang box to mount it in.
thestoneman's Avatar thestoneman
02:07 PM Liked: 34
post #1415 of 1502
05-11-2014 | Posts: 305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

As long as you figure out the correct part to order (base color, cover color, etc.), there's nothing else required... Assuming you have the deep 4-gang box to mount it in.

Great news. I didn't want to assume anything and couldn't find concrete answers on extra equipment.
thestoneman's Avatar thestoneman
09:20 AM Liked: 34
post #1416 of 1502
05-22-2014 | Posts: 305
Joined: Apr 2008
I am installing a GRX-3106 in a few weeks and I'm hoping for a rec on good dimmable rope lights. I can't find anything recent using the search function. Thanks AVS!
Schlemstar's Avatar Schlemstar
09:25 AM Liked: 18
post #1417 of 1502
05-22-2014 | Posts: 114
Joined: Mar 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

I am installing a GRX-3106 in a few weeks and I'm hoping for a rec on good dimmable rope lights. I can't find anything recent using the search function. Thanks AVS!

I used 120v LED rope light from orangetreetrade.com. The key though is to have enough of it on the zone to present enough of a load to dim properly. I have about 35 feet on one zone, and it does not dim out all the way. It dims smoothly, but at the point where it should probably dim out, it brightens just a bit instead. I have another 10ft strand on a zone with some other lights, which presents a larger load to the controller, and which in turn does dim out properly. I think the minimum draw on one zone needs to be about 35 watts. Hope that helps.
jautor's Avatar jautor
10:08 AM Liked: 444
post #1418 of 1502
05-22-2014 | Posts: 8,653
Joined: Jun 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by thestoneman View Post

I am installing a GRX-3106 in a few weeks and I'm hoping for a rec on good dimmable rope lights. I can't find anything recent using the search function. Thanks AVS!

I got mine from 1000bulbs, using plain 120V incandescent, and as Schlemstar says, it's just a matter of having enough load presented. In my case I had 200' so it wasn't going to be a problem. Just look at the "watts per foot" rating and calculate from there. GrafikEye minimum load is only 25W...
thestoneman's Avatar thestoneman
10:17 AM Liked: 34
post #1419 of 1502
05-22-2014 | Posts: 305
Joined: Apr 2008
Would you recommend against using 12V LED's? I realize that requires a power supply to step up to 120 on the primary side.

I didn't realize incandescent rope lighting was available. I'll check out the sources you mentioned. Thank you!
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
11:55 AM Liked: 404
post #1420 of 1502
05-22-2014 | Posts: 3,067
Joined: Mar 2010
You can use 12v lighting, provided the power supply you use is magnetic or switching and is otherwise denoted as "dimmable". These are the most expensive types of power supplies, so it's probably better to just get 120v rope light straight away.

And if you find you don't have enough load on any one zone, you can install an in-line 120v resistor of whatever wattage you need to compensate for the difference.
Sands_at_Pier147's Avatar Sands_at_Pier147
10:40 AM Liked: 12
post #1421 of 1502
05-23-2014 | Posts: 757
Joined: Jan 2007

I used 120v LED rope lighting from Bird Dog Distributing.  I feel that it dims quite well on my GRX-3106.

 

One of my zones only has about 7 feet of rope light (stairs) so that is about 5W of power. I did purchase a Lutron synthetic load to bring the total zone up to 25W. It was expensive, in a relative manner. As TMcG suggests, a simple resistor will do the same job. Just make sure it has room to dissipate heat, because its sole job will be to turn electricity into heat.


jautor's Avatar jautor
11:01 AM Liked: 444
post #1422 of 1502
05-23-2014 | Posts: 8,653
Joined: Jun 2001
And if you're buying LEDs to save energy / heat - note that adding dummy loads to meet the minimums is truly "wasting" energy... I looked at LEDs for my rope, but given then significant cost delta, low usage and ease of dimming - I chose the 120V incandescent...
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
11:12 AM Liked: 404
post #1423 of 1502
05-23-2014 | Posts: 3,067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

And if you're buying LEDs to save energy / heat - note that adding dummy loads to meet the minimums is truly "wasting" energy... I looked at LEDs for my rope, but given then significant cost delta, low usage and ease of dimming - I chose the 120V incandescent...

+1 - exactly what I did. Plus the incandescent can truly dim to extremely low levels....the LEDs have a lower limit before they start to flicker, generally at about 20-25% of their lumen output.

THIS is what I bought from 1000bulbs.com - $65 for 150 feet of warm incandescent rope light with a free shipping coupon code.
Sands_at_Pier147's Avatar Sands_at_Pier147
12:17 PM Liked: 12
post #1424 of 1502
05-23-2014 | Posts: 757
Joined: Jan 2007

I chose LED rope more for the life expectancy than the power dissipation.


jautor's Avatar jautor
01:41 PM Liked: 444
post #1425 of 1502
05-23-2014 | Posts: 8,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post

I chose LED rope more for the life expectancy than the power dissipation.

With the low-to-moderate hours / month of usage most of these ropes probably get, I suspect most of us will have moved before any of these fail from actual lamp failure... biggrin.gif
SethMan919's Avatar SethMan919
06:42 AM Liked: 10
post #1426 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: May 2014
I tried searching this thread for humming,buzzing and didnt find much help. I bought my house with my theater already in it. It has a Grafik eye installed. I'm unsure exactly what model. I will look when i get home if it needs to be know. One of the settings is with all the sconces dimmed very low and the rope lights up. It looks great, but the sconce incandescents hum like crazy. can anyone recommend a bulb that wont make noise. I like having the sconces on very dim, but just cant live with the noise.
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
07:00 AM Liked: 404
post #1427 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 3,067
Joined: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by SethMan919 View Post
I tried searching this thread for humming,buzzing and didnt find much help. I bought my house with my theater already in it. It has a Grafik eye installed. I'm unsure exactly what model. I will look when i get home if it needs to be know. One of the settings is with all the sconces dimmed very low and the rope lights up. It looks great, but the sconce incandescents hum like crazy. can anyone recommend a bulb that wont make noise. I like having the sconces on very dim, but just cant live with the noise.
Use a high-quality Philips bulb. You will be amazed with the difference.
SethMan919's Avatar SethMan919
07:04 AM Liked: 10
post #1428 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: May 2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SethMan919 View Post
I tried searching this thread for humming,buzzing and didnt find much help. I bought my house with my theater already in it. It has a Grafik eye installed. I'm unsure exactly what model. I will look when i get home if it needs to be know. One of the settings is with all the sconces dimmed very low and the rope lights up. It looks great, but the sconce incandescents hum like crazy. can anyone recommend a bulb that wont make noise. I like having the sconces on very dim, but just cant live with the noise.
Use a high-quality Philips bulb. You will be amazed with the difference.
Thanks, Do you have a link to these? Cool to see you're in NC too. I'm in Apex.
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
07:14 AM Liked: 404
post #1429 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 3,067
Joined: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by SethMan919 View Post
Thanks, Do you have a link to these? Cool to see you're in NC too. I'm in Apex.
Philips makes 100s of different bulbs and you did not mention what type of bulbs your sconces take. If you Google "Philips xxx bulb" where xxx is your type and wattage of bulb, it should pull up plenty of options from the shopping sites.
helmsman's Avatar helmsman
07:22 AM Liked: 26
post #1430 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 231
Joined: Oct 2007
Faceplates: does anyone have a recommendation for a good source for Grafik Eye faceplates? I''m looking for a black faceplate for my 3104 to go better with my color scheme - replacing the original translucent-black/white faceplate. I saw one a while ago on eBay but missed it. I found one merchant but they wanted over 100 bucks for one! Thanks!
jautor's Avatar jautor
03:09 PM Liked: 444
post #1431 of 1502
06-16-2014 | Posts: 8,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helmsman View Post
Faceplates: does anyone have a recommendation for a good source for Grafik Eye faceplates? I''m looking for a black faceplate for my 3104 to go better with my color scheme - replacing the original translucent-black/white faceplate. I saw one a while ago on eBay but missed it. I found one merchant but they wanted over 100 bucks for one! Thanks!
Paul @ Hank's Electric hangs out here on the forum...
doublewing11's Avatar doublewing11
11:34 AM Liked: 370
post #1432 of 1502
07-04-2014 | Posts: 4,099
Joined: Feb 2010
Electrician has spec-ed Cat 5 cable to pull from GE to rack. This doesn't make sense to me. Is there a specific comm wire I need to source and pass on to electrician?

Many thanks.....
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
10:19 AM Liked: 404
post #1433 of 1502
07-10-2014 | Posts: 3,067
Joined: Mar 2010
THIS wire from Liberty Cable is the alternative (one of many, actually, like THIS one from West Penn wire) to genuine Lutron GRX wire.

Spec is 2x22 gauge stranded copper for data/communications with tinned drain wire and wrapped with foil shield and 2x18 gauge stranded copper for power and ground (common). As long as the wire meets this spec, it will work with Lutron (and AMX, Crestron, Elan) for the data bus and power the devices as per the manufacturer's specs.
wraunch's Avatar wraunch
09:10 AM Liked: 32
post #1434 of 1502
07-28-2014 | Posts: 867
Joined: Sep 2005
Ok so my GRX-3006 is giving me a ton of problems. I tried to use all LED lights with it and that doesn't seem to be working. Although it did for a while now it is acting flaky even though nothing has changed. I have swapped a bunch of my 4" cans from LEDs to halogens (GE Reveal PAR16 Floods). The GE will work fine for say 20 mins then it cuts all the lights off then they come right back on, stay on for 5 mins then right back off. Also I am getting an intermittent flicker from some of the remaining LEDs when they are at 0 power.
wraunch's Avatar wraunch
07:49 AM Liked: 32
post #1435 of 1502
08-21-2014 | Posts: 867
Joined: Sep 2005
Anyone else run into this? I'm about ready to rip out the GE and just use individual dimmers and say to hell with it.
helmsman's Avatar helmsman
08:10 AM Liked: 26
post #1436 of 1502
08-21-2014 | Posts: 231
Joined: Oct 2007
I have a mix of halogens and programmable-multi-color LEDs controlled by my GRX-3104 and have no problems. HOWEVER - when I was installing them I read that you need a switching module for the LEDs, which I went ahead and procured and installed. So the LEDs (which shine onto my screen, all on one zone) and their transformer are wired through this switching module (PHPM-SW-DV-WH) and this setup works perfectly. The only downside is that you can't dim the LEDs, they're either on or off, but that's okay because when they're on I would only want them on full brightness anyway, I just miss out on the dim-on or dim-off effect that I get with all my other lighting zones.
oman321's Avatar oman321
01:44 PM Liked: 40
post #1437 of 1502
08-21-2014 | Posts: 4,789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post
Ok so my GRX-3006 is giving me a ton of problems. I tried to use all LED lights with it and that doesn't seem to be working. Although it did for a while now it is acting flaky even though nothing has changed. I have swapped a bunch of my 4" cans from LEDs to halogens (GE Reveal PAR16 Floods). The GE will work fine for say 20 mins then it cuts all the lights off then they come right back on, stay on for 5 mins then right back off. Also I am getting an intermittent flicker from some of the remaining LEDs when they are at 0 power.

I have one zone for my LED rope lights on a 3106. I have this zone wired up with the step lights in my riser.

The GE's need a minimum load of 25w per zone. It can be tricky to meet that minimum with LED's thus requiring an additional device as helmsman mentions. By wiring the step lights of my riser with the LED rope lights in overhead crown molding I was able to achieve the necessary wattage for the zone to work properly.

If I remove the bulbs from the step light fixtures the zone begins to act flaky. The rope light will not dim properly, rather it will go down to about 20 percent then there is noticeable jump down in brightness all of a sudden. When set all the way off it will not actually turn off but flicker really fast. So long as I have the step lights in place, it all works as it should, including dimming up and the LED rope lights.
wraunch's Avatar wraunch
08:07 AM Liked: 32
post #1438 of 1502
08-25-2014 | Posts: 867
Joined: Sep 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by helmsman View Post
I have a mix of halogens and programmable-multi-color LEDs controlled by my GRX-3104 and have no problems. HOWEVER - when I was installing them I read that you need a switching module for the LEDs, which I went ahead and procured and installed. So the LEDs (which shine onto my screen, all on one zone) and their transformer are wired through this switching module (PHPM-SW-DV-WH) and this setup works perfectly. The only downside is that you can't dim the LEDs, they're either on or off, but that's okay because when they're on I would only want them on full brightness anyway, I just miss out on the dim-on or dim-off effect that I get with all my other lighting zones.

Where did you put that switching module, inside the wall?
wraunch's Avatar wraunch
08:12 AM Liked: 32
post #1439 of 1502
08-25-2014 | Posts: 867
Joined: Sep 2005
The LEDs I am using are 12.5 watts each. I have two on one zone and four on another. The two flicker unless I have all lights completely off.
TMcG's Avatar TMcG
08:32 AM Liked: 404
post #1440 of 1502
08-25-2014 | Posts: 3,067
Joined: Mar 2010
Lutron has 100% free technical support for residential customers like yourself and an ever-expanding LED light compatibility list broken down by manufacturer and product/model number. I'd call them first.

My suspicion is that if your fixtures are 12.5 watts each at 100%, that when you dim the load you are dipping below the 25 watt total load threshold, thereby causing the flickering you see. The digital dimming driver of the Grafik Eye may not be compatible with the digital LED driver in your bulbs as well. Just spitballing here, but that's my suspicion.

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