the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 49 - AVS Forum
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post #1441 of 1453 Old 08-28-2014, 07:43 PM
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Hey guys, I've tried searching the web and this thread and haven't really found an answer. I have a GRX-3104 and I am curious if there is a way to control the individual zones within a scene via IR. A similar question was asked in this thread but I never saw an answer.

I would like to have the ability to select one of the 4 scenes, and then tweak that scene by raising or lowering the lights of zone 1, 2, or 3 only.

Thanks!!!


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post #1442 of 1453 Old 08-28-2014, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deewan View Post
Hey guys, I've tried searching the web and this thread and haven't really found an answer. I have a GRX-3104 and I am curious if there is a way to control the individual zones within a scene via IR. A similar question was asked in this thread but I never saw an answer.

I would like to have the ability to select one of the 4 scenes, and then tweak that scene by raising or lowering the lights of zone 1, 2, or 3 only.

Thanks!!!
There are available IR commands called Lutron Pro IR Command sets. Here is a link to the Lutron Technical document.

Remotecentral.com has the entire Lutron library, including the codes you are looking for. Most are available for the Pronto or URC as they are the most ubiquitous learning remotes.
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post #1443 of 1453 Old 08-28-2014, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
There are available IR commands called Lutron Pro IR Command sets. Here is a link to the Lutron Technical document.

Remotecentral.com has the entire Lutron library, including the codes you are looking for. Most are available for the Pronto or URC as they are the most ubiquitous learning remotes.
Thank you so much!!! I had looked for this info a few times and for whatever reason didn't stumble upon it.


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post #1444 of 1453 Old 09-01-2014, 07:04 AM
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Where did you put that switching module, inside the wall?
Yes, sort of. It's inside a framed enclosure on my screen wall for my left and right speakers. The reason for this was to make it (and the low voltage transformer) accessible. They're right next to eachother, both attached to the stud in separate electrical mounting boxes.
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post #1445 of 1453 Old 09-01-2014, 10:45 AM
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If someone wants a GE let me know. I have a GRX-3006 that I couldn't get to work with my LEDs but it dims and controls halogens and incandescents like a charm. I'll let it go for what I paid. $300 shipped CONUS. PM for details. Add 3% for paypal fees. SOLD

Come see my Livin' the Dream build!

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post #1446 of 1453 Old 09-10-2014, 06:24 AM
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Been contemplating a 3104 for my theater, but if I only have 2 zones for dimming and one switch, would it be easier/cheaper to just use lutron IR dimmers?
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post #1447 of 1453 Old 09-10-2014, 09:04 AM
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If you're talking about the Maestro Lutron dimmers that are IR remote controlled they are about 40 bucks each. Trouble is you don't have independent control of them. You can setup a different preset for each one and when you hit the preset button each one would go to that programmed preset but otherwise one IR command would affect all of them.


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post #1448 of 1453 Old 09-12-2014, 11:50 AM
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I plan on buying a Lutron Grafik Eye QS 6 Zone and my can lights are already in the ceiling (about 10 of them) and the dry wall is up.

I have about 3 light switches (that by the way have a "dimmer slider" right next to each on/off button on each switch, but when you move the "dimmer sliders" on each switch, nothing happens to the 10 can lights I am referring to ie they don't dim at all, just an FYI) at the entrance of the room that controls
all 10 can lights.

I also plan on buying a Lutron Switch that has 3-4 buttons that will connect to the Grafik Eye via the standard PELV cable which Hanks Electronics sells by the foot.

I am guessing that all of the Can Light wires are connected to these 3-5 switches at the entrance way.

I guess it will be easier to install the Grafik Eye main unit at the entrance way because it will be nearly impossible to pull all of the electric wire for all of the can lights to a new location in the room rather than keep them where they are????

Also, I have review the Grafik Eye QS Wiring diagram and I know that each load goes to each screw load on the Grafik Eye unit. I am also aware that you must "daisy chain" each load of can lights on their own "daisy chained load" back to the Grafik Eye. All 10 of these Can Lights will be considered 1 Load.

My other loads on the Grafik Eye will be the following

Load 2: Can lights above the Screen
Load 3: Rope Lights in the Tray Ceiling
Load 4: Can Lights on the left and right sides of the room in the Soffits
Load 5: Rope Lights under the stage and riser

The question I have is in regards to the existing Can Lights (10) in the ceiling.

How do I Daisy Chain them to turn all 10 into 1 Load if they are already daisy chained into certain "groups" already (each group controlled by 1 of each of the 3 switches on the wall). How do I "unlink" each group of lights on the 3 switches so that I can turn all 10 of them into 1 "daisy chained" load? Do I have to rip drywall out of the ceiling to see how these lights are connected to each other and rip apart their connections to reconnect them all into 1 "daisy chained" load?

I also want to install a "Room Occupancy Sensor" and connect the Grafik Eye to a XanTech IR Blaster which will be in the front of the room so that I do not have to keep pointing the Universal Remote behind me where I want to put the Grafik Eye.

Any reaction to all of this?

By the way, I am reading this book over and over again so that I can save money instead of paying an electrician because of a very very tight budget I have.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-Complet.../dp/159186612X
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post #1449 of 1453 Old 09-12-2014, 12:12 PM
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The way the lights are probably wired if the are on the same circuit is as follows.

Power comes into the box where all the switches are located.

______
Load

Then it is probably split or pigtailed to each switch.

Wiring for switches 123 continue to each light that they control.

Essentially you would now have the load going into the GE then a pigtail out of chosen zone of the GE to connect the 3 lines that lead to the lights you're referring to.

Tried to do a crude layout for you but it doesn't line up right once I post.
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Last edited by oman321; 09-12-2014 at 12:26 PM.
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post #1450 of 1453 Old 09-12-2014, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post
The way the lights are probably wired if the are on the same circuit is as follows.

Power comes into the box where all the switches are located.

______
Load

Then it is probably split or pigtailed to each switch.

Wiring for switches 123 continue to each light that they control.

Essentially you would now have the load going into the GE then a pigtail out of chosen zone of the GE to connect the 3 lines that lead to the lights you're referring to.

Tried to do a crude layout for you but it doesn't line up right once I post.
Thanks oman, I understand without a diagram, but thank you for the thought and work of attempting to make a diagram for me.

I think I understand what you mean. The power load directly from the circuit breaker at the panel is going directly to one of the 3 switches. Now I just have to connect the Power Load wire from the Circtuit Breaker/Panel directly to the "Power In" location on the Grafik Eye, then "pigtail" all of the Can Lights together in the proper way so that there ends up being only "One Line of wire" that represents my now "daisy chained" 10 can lights, which goes into and connects to the screw/input of my Load 1 on the Grafik Eye.

But are all of my current 10 Can Lights in question already "daisy chained" in some way if all three switches have the "dimmer sliders" on them already? Are you assuming that all 10 Can Lights have "individual" wires going back to three switches instead of them "connecting to each other somewhere far away from the switches"? What if the latter scenario is the case and I don't see all "10 can light" wires sitting behind the wall at the location of my 3 switches?

Is there any chance that between the 10 Can Lights, only, lets say for example, only 3 wires representing them are going back to the switches because of a "daisy chain" design already incorporated into the wiring layout, or is that impossible making your scenario of all 10 Can light wires being accessible at the current 3 light switches?

I am also aware that I have to check the model numbers of each Can Light currently installed to make sure that they are already "dimmable" (which may be why they do not work now with regards to the dimmer function on all of the current switches). Do I have to open up the drywall next to each Can Light in order to find out the model number of each Can Light or can I find out without having to open up the drywall to find out their model number (by maybe just unscrewing the light bulb and looking for a model number in that area)?
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post #1451 of 1453 Old 09-13-2014, 09:54 PM
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Are all 3 switches in the same box?

What kind of lights are you using?

Recessed cans should for the most part be dimmable, it's usually the light type that causes issues. CFL or Led will cause issues with those slider dimmers. Incandescent would probably work.


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post #1452 of 1453 Old 09-15-2014, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post
Are all 3 switches in the same box?

What kind of lights are you using?

Recessed cans should for the most part be dimmable, it's usually the light type that causes issues. CFL or Led will cause issues with those slider dimmers. Incandescent would probably work.
Thanks again Oman. I have not even moved into the home yet. Our Closing Day is one day next week. I will take plenty of photos and give you better updates when I have better access.
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post #1453 of 1453 Old 09-15-2014, 08:55 AM
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Ah ok. I was concerned that those 3 switches may be at 3 different locations controlling all 10 lights which would be a whole different ball game.


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