the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 53 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #1561 of 1582 Old 12-11-2015, 02:01 PM
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Thanks I really want to do the 6 zone but I can get the 3 zone for a great deal right now
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post #1562 of 1582 Old 12-14-2015, 03:43 PM
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So I ended up getting the grafik eye gbo 3103 -t-wh now my question is is the bang and olufsen beo4 remote as capable of changing to different scenes or am i better off getting a 4 scene lutron remote. Keep in mind I don't own any other bang and olufsen equipment just got a really really good deal on the grafik eye
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post #1563 of 1582 Old 12-15-2015, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hd0823 View Post
So I ended up getting the grafik eye gbo 3103 -t-wh now my question is is the bang and olufsen beo4 remote as capable of changing to different scenes or am i better off getting a 4 scene lutron remote. Keep in mind I don't own any other bang and olufsen equipment just got a really really good deal on the grafik eye
I can still get the remote from Lutron for you but there should be several other 3rd party remotes that are programmable or pre-programmed for Grafik Eye 3000. IM me or email paul (at) hankselectric (dot) net for more info. You do not need the bang olufsen remote unless you have another reason for it...

Paul W.
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post #1564 of 1582 Old 12-16-2015, 10:02 AM
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Hey guys,

If anybody has a GRX-3000 series and is interested in:
  • controlling your lights from your phone/tablet (or from an RF/Bluetooth remote, or from an IR remote without line of sight)
  • automating your lights based on events from other devices
  • automating other devices based on the status of your lights

I wrote some software to do that for me, it's posted here: HamJab Beta: DIY control & automation for RS232/ethernet devices (+ EventGhost/Kodi)

All you need is a GRX-RS232 or similar (GRX-PRG, GRX-AV, GRX-CI-RS232, etc)... I bought one off ebay for $40. I'm not sure if it'll work with the QS series or other models but I'm happy to add support if somebody wants to help test.

I just figured I'd post in case it was useful to anybody but me :0)
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post #1565 of 1582 Old 04-06-2016, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midgetspy View Post
Hey guys,

If anybody has a GRX-3000 series and is interested in:
  • controlling your lights from your phone/tablet (or from an RF/Bluetooth remote, or from an IR remote without line of sight)
  • automating your lights based on events from other devices
  • automating other devices based on the status of your lights

I wrote some software to do that for me, it's posted here: HamJab Beta: DIY control & automation for RS232/ethernet devices (+ EventGhost/Kodi)

All you need is a GRX-RS232 or similar (GRX-PRG, GRX-AV, GRX-CI-RS232, etc)... I bought one off ebay for $40. I'm not sure if it'll work with the QS series or other models but I'm happy to add support if somebody wants to help test.

I just figured I'd post in case it was useful to anybody but me :0)
Thats cool. Thanks for sharing. I have a Lutron Grafik Eye QS that I would be happy to help test it out with your EventGhost DIY automation with thorough diligence!
Wow! I can't believe this thread was alive and kicking at one point and now nobody has posted in over 100 days...At one point a Lutron Grafik Eye was the staple of an HT. I guess after I install mine this month I will see how special it makes the HT experience. Lol.
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post #1566 of 1582 Old 05-04-2016, 08:14 AM
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Here is the current layout drawings for the CURRENT setup in the room.
I have 3 Lutron Diva Dimmer Switches at the main entrance and two "3 way" regular switches at the other entrance.

HERE IS THE 3 LUTRON DIVA SWITCHES CURRENT WIRING SETUP AT THE MAIN ENTRANCE:


Here is the CURRENT wiring layout for the side entrance with the two regular "3 way" switches:



Here is a "map" to show you the room and where the 3 Lutron Diva switches are (main entrance) and the other entrance (with the two regular "3 way" switches):


I am going to be replacing the 3 Lutron Diva Switches with a Lutron Grafik Eye QS. I am going to be replacing the 2 regular "3 way" switches at the other entrance with one Lutron "Pico" switch. The Pico Switch will wirelessly connect to the Lutron Grafik Eye QS:

Here is the wiring diagram of what the box will look like AFTER the Lutron Grafik Eye QS is installed. Here is the ONLY QUESTION(S):


1. What do I do with the existing "traveller" (red wires) wires going between the two room entrances? As you can see in this projected layout drawing for when the Lutron Grafik Eye QS is installed, I suggest that I simply tie the 3 "Traveller" wires together with a Wire Nut. Is that a solution?

Question 2: What do I do with the "power" wires and the "traveller" wires that go to the OTHER entrance (with the 2 regular "3 way" switches)? Do I just wire nut the traveler wires together, and then wire nut the neutral wires together, but then install individual wire nuts to each and every POWER wire (black wires) to their own individual wire nut (ie don't tie the power/black wires together)?
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post #1567 of 1582 Old 05-05-2016, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXLCMT View Post
Here is the current layout drawings for the CURRENT setup in the room.
I have 3 Lutron Diva Dimmer Switches at the main entrance and two "3 way" regular switches at the other entrance.

HERE IS THE 3 LUTRON DIVA SWITCHES CURRENT WIRING SETUP AT THE MAIN ENTRANCE:


Here is the CURRENT wiring layout for the side entrance with the two regular "3 way" switches:



Here is a "map" to show you the room and where the 3 Lutron Diva switches are (main entrance) and the other entrance (with the two regular "3 way" switches):


I am going to be replacing the 3 Lutron Diva Switches with a Lutron Grafik Eye QS. I am going to be replacing the 2 regular "3 way" switches at the other entrance with one Lutron "Pico" switch. The Pico Switch will wirelessly connect to the Lutron Grafik Eye QS:

Here is the wiring diagram of what the box will look like AFTER the Lutron Grafik Eye QS is installed. Here is the ONLY QUESTION(S):


1. What do I do with the existing "traveller" (red wires) wires going between the two room entrances? As you can see in this projected layout drawing for when the Lutron Grafik Eye QS is installed, I suggest that I simply tie the 3 "Traveller" wires together with a Wire Nut. Is that a solution?

Question 2: What do I do with the "power" wires and the "traveller" wires that go to the OTHER entrance (with the 2 regular "3 way" switches)? Do I just wire nut the traveler wires together, and then wire nut the neutral wires together, but then install individual wire nuts to each and every POWER wire (black wires) to their own individual wire nut (ie don't tie the power/black wires together)?
Looks good but you shouldn't do anything but cap the "useless" travelers, individually. If they remain unconnected on the other end it doesn't matter but it's bad practice and confusing if someone works on it behind you, they'll be wondering why you did that...

Leave all the unused wires at either end capped and/or taped individually, don't splice any unused wires together. Disconnect them all.
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post #1568 of 1582 Old 05-05-2016, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Looks good but you shouldn't do anything but cap the "useless" travelers, individually. If they remain unconnected on the other end it doesn't matter but it's bad practice and confusing if someone works on it behind you, they'll be wondering why you did that...

Thanks Paul for that confirmation.

Small world isn't it? Of course I purchased my Grafik Eye and the Pico switch from none other
than you personally...the best in the business.
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post #1569 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:38 PM
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After purchasing my Lutron Grafik Eye QS Dimmer (5 zone) back in November 2014, I finally installed it a month ago.
I had researched Angie'ls List for local electricians and I had a spreadsheet of twenty local electricians who I intially

contacted
to get estimates and only one guy ended up coming out to give me an estimate. Every electrician I spoke to gave me attitude
about installing it because it was more complex than they have ever seen. The one guy that came and took a look at it gave me an

estimate of $900.00 plus dollars which did not include the drywall finishing work (which would have cost me an additional $100-

$200 plus for a total of $1000.00 to install this thing). My wife said she would not let me install this because she is extra

paranoid of anyone doing DIY electrical work, so I had to install it behind her back, but in the long run she is happy I did it.
In hindsight there was a guy that said he would do it for $200-300 but I didn't trust him and I wanted it done quick. He
had no clue how to install it so I thought I was better off doing it myself and I am glad that I did.

It was very very easy to install because I have been preparing and preparing for over 1 year to install it which included re-

reading this Grafik Eye thread over and over again, copying every single post on this thread and saving each post into

categories I created
which I reviewed constantly. I also was on the phone with Lutron many many times with questions. The Lutron Tech support is

nothing less than stellar as far as their ability to answer questions and issues you have. As of the end of 2014, I never even

installed an electrical outlet, and I would like to thank the initial creator of this thread for making it because I would never

have been able to install this dimmer.

I guess all of the electricians gave me attitude because they never installed one before and the Lutron Grafik Eye QS borders on

"home automation".

Here is the photo of the Lutron Grafik Eye QS from the front:


Here is a photo of it from the "top" (you can see that I modified the image to show how many 14/2 wires and 14/3 wires etc are

going to the dimmer:


Here is a photo of the "side" of the dimmer (you can see the IR COM and IR Data wires for the remote control/automation control

features of this dimmer):




Even with the electrical schematic diagram I made below, after emailing 20+ electricians in my area, none wanted to do it...
[IMG]http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s553/axlcmt5/DIY%20CHATROOM%20-GRAFIK%20EYE%20INSTALLATION%20LAYOUT

%20DIAGRAM_zpsm7xw6s6u.jpg[/IMG]

Here is the wiring diagram for the "current" electrical layout for the 3 current Lutron Diva dimmer switches which I had to

remove
in order to install the Lutron Grafik Eye in its place:


Overall room "zones" before the Lutron Grafik Eye installation:
[IMG]http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s553/axlcmt5/CURRENT%20ROOM%20-%20THE%203%20ZONES%20%20AND%20Light

%20control_zpskfii9dqx.png[/IMG]
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post #1570 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:39 PM
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Here is the layout diagram of wiring for the "other" entrance into the room. I ended up not touching these, but above it I plan

on installing my Lutron Pico Wireless Switch. I had to leave these two switches below in the "ON" position in order to have all

of the zones working AFTER I installed the Grafik Eye:


This is the Raco 698 3.5" deep box that fit the Grafik Eye perfectly. There was PLENTY of room for the dimmer in this box:


Before I installed the dimmer though, I had to replace all of my can lights with these "retro-fit" dimmable Cree 6" lights.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-TW-Series-65W-Equivalent-Soft-White-2700K-6-in-Dimmable-

LED-Retrofit-Recessed-Downlight-DRDL6-06227009-12DE26-1C100/205337184


I brought them all with a 10% coupon at Home Depot so the cost wasn't expensive:

I knew they would work with the Lutron Grafik Eye because when I google this model of lights, I found that Lutron tested them

with their Grafik Eye and they had a report with the results. I had no choice but to get them because the lights that were

already installed in the ceiling were not dimmable and would not have worked with the Grafik Eye.
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/ResourceLibrary/LEDReportCard/Report%20Card%20Cree%201773%20downlight

%20DRDL6-06227009-12DE26-1C100%2012%20RevA.pdf






First I had to take out the trim for the old lights:





Here were the replacements (Cree retrofit kit - LED dimmable)




The can light "housing" ready for the Cree LED retro-fit kits:



I of course had to have the electrical circuit breaker powered off for this area. Another reason why the work lights were great

investment...

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post #1571 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:39 PM
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I removed all of the already installed trim and lights (they were not LED) first, then I lined up all of the Cree LED kits on

the bar,
ready to be installed into their new home.


The 3 Lutron Diva dimmer switches which had to be removed, which had to be replaced by the Grafik Eye:



First screw to for the removal stage....coming out:





The 3 Lutron Diva switches are out (almost):




The three Lutron Diva switches are out!


Then it was time to straighten the current wiring in the current box.


Double checking with the "power sensor" to make sure there is no voltage in the power coming from the circuit breaker panel:



In order to remove the current electrical gang box, I had to cut away the drywall to reveal the screws that held
it to the framing:



The screws that held the current gang box are out!


Removing more drywall to expose the nails that held the current gang box in:



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post #1572 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:40 PM
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Carefully remove the current gang box, being sure not to damage any of the wires:


No, this is not the right tool to remove the current gang box. These are heavy duty cutters but they pulled it out nonetheless.





I finally got it out! Wow! That was a pain in the butt!



I had to use a camera to see what was going on within the framing above the dimmers. As you can see (or maybe not see because it

is too dark) are the two extra 14/2 runs I ran for the extra rope light zones and the ambiance lights above my home theater

screen:


Then I pulled down the two runs that were there waiting for about 9 months to be installed:


I had previously labeled them "can" and "rope": This helped because I could determine which zone number I could give each:



Here was the 10BaseT "Cat6" wire I also ran from the component rack to the Grafik Eye in order to control the Grafik Eye with

my Harmony Ultimate Remote:




When I was cutting the drywall, I accidentally "nicked" the power wire sheathing coming from the circuit breaker. So just to

make sure I did not penetrate any wires inside the sheathing, I cut open the sheathing higher up and I wrapped it with

electrical tape:


Then I had to cut open the area more to make room for the Raco 698 gang box:



Here I cut out more than I needed to above the opening in order to get the wires into the Raco 698 gang box:


This was a 2 x 4 that was already installed. I had to remove it because it was in the way:

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post #1573 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:41 PM
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Once the opening was ready to install the Raco 698 gang box, it was time to punch out the holes for the clamp rings:



Before I installed the Raco 698 gang box though, I decided to strip the wires the required 5/16" length as instructed by Lutron

for the Grafik Eye. First thing I did for this was just cut the wire ends clean:


Then I stripped each wire end 5/16"


All of the wires have been stripped and they are all straight, ready to go through the clamp rings in the gange box:







First wires through the ring clamps are in:
I was able to fit two wires into each ring clamp. I had to do this. There was no way the wires would fit if I didn't:





Unfortunately I had to cut a hole through the back side of the wall to the room behind the Grafik Eye in order to get it in:





These 8 port push in connectors made it a lot easier to use less room. They helped save a ton of space. Use these instead of the

traditional wire nuts to save room:

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post #1574 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:41 PM
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First I tied all of the neutrals together:


I did purchase "stranded wire" from home depot and my plan was to use them to wire from the push in connectors to the Grafik Eye

because of how flexible and bendable they are but alas they did not go in well into the push-in connectors and I therefore was

forced to strip the sheathing off some 14/2 wire and used the regular electrical wires instead (I was lucky in that I had some

extra 14/2 laying around to do this!!!!!!)


All of the neutral wires are in!



As you can see I had to add a piece of 2 x 4 below the Raco 698 gang box in order to hold up the box:


Then it was time to breakout the RJ45 "Breakout Boards" to connect the Cat6 RJ45 cable to the 18/2 wire to the Grafik Eye
IR Com/IR Data connectors:








I brought some "shrink wrap" to cover the 18/2 wire that I attached to the RJ45 Breakout Board purchased from Gravitech.us
This is the low voltage wire going to the Cat6 wire which is going to the component Rack:



Then I wrapped the RJ 45 Breakout Board with electrical tape to keep the connection stronger in case the 18/2 wire or the Cat6

got pulled:



Then I connected the IR Com and IR Data ports on the Grafik Eye to the 18/2 wire: (I had to remember which colored wire
when to IR Data/IR Com so that I can correctly wire the other end of the RJ45 Breakout Board in the component rack room which

was the other end of the Cat6 wire.
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post #1575 of 1582 Old 06-13-2016, 02:42 PM
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Believe it or not, the IR Com/IR Data connector on the Grafik Eye can pop out to make it easier to install the wiring, then pop

it back in:


The Grafik Eye "four horsemen" (ie the four screws that attached the Grafik Eye to the Raco 698 gang box.
First you have to remove the 1/32" thin bezel that covers the top of the Grafik Eye to gain access to the two top screw holes:




After I fit it in, then had to completely remove the Grafik Eye in order to fix the drywall holes around the gang box:
Here is a sheet with the dimensions of the drywall boards I had to cut to cover the drywall holes:






The back wall (other room):


Before I started sanding the drywall mud, I of course covered the Raco 698 gang box with blue tape (many layers!) in order to

stop
dust from entering the box. We do not want any complications.


After sanding drywall mud, I performed another layer of drywall mud because there were many issues with an uneven surface, then

sanded, then drywall mud, then sand again, wash, rinse repeat. It took about 1 whole week of after hours work to keep trying to

fix this before I could paint:




Then I could finally install the Grafik Eye:


I had a "dumb blond" moment where I had no idea how to install the "scene buttons" on the Grafik Eye.
I thought that you had to install them on the bottom face plate cover and I kept banging my head trying to figure
out how why the bottom face plate cover would not close. It took a few calls to Lutron Tech Support in order for them to get
it through my thick skull that the "scene buttons" get attached to the Grafik Eye itself, after you take off the "fake"

temporary plate that have on there to protect the Grafik Eye during shipping:
Here are the photos of my failed attempts to get the "scene buttons" onto the face plate and as you can see the face plate would

not close: DO NOT DO THIS, THESE ARE EXAMPLES OF WHAT I DID WRONG REGARDING THE SCENE BUTTON INSTALL








This is how the "scene buttons" get attached to the Grafik Eye QS. You have to remove a "plate" that is pre-installed on the

Grafik Eye in order to attached the scene buttons.


Then you put on the top and bottom "cover plates"


As of today I have programmed all 5 scenes.

After stripping the 3.5mm wire that goes into the Harmony Hub, I wired the two wires into the RJ45 Breakout Board in the

component rack area and then connected the "other" end of the blue Cat6 wire to the RJ45 Breakout Board in the component rack

area. I got lucky and on the first try, after programming my Harmony Ultimate to control the Grafik Eye, I was able to turn on

and off Scenes 1-4 through the Harmony Ultimate remote! I couldn't believe it! I was ready for some major head banging

troubleshooting fun but alas it escaped me!!

I have gone as far as when I press the "Play" button on the Harmony remote, the lights slowly dim and when I press "Pause" one

of the scenes goes on and the the lights go to 50% bright. I will share with you all my exact scene programs in a later post.
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post #1576 of 1582 Old 07-01-2016, 04:53 PM
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So to get the harmony ultimate remote to work with the grafik eye what all needs to be done. Is it just cat6 cable

Last edited by hd0823; 07-01-2016 at 04:59 PM.
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post #1577 of 1582 Old 10-23-2016, 06:51 PM
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Hi, today I picked up a GRX-3106 on a whim. I went to a guys house to buy a sofa and here he had this Grafik Eye installed in the room. I asked him about it and he offered it to me at $200. He's moving soon and basically parting out the theater. I had no time to research it but took a shot in the dark and bought it. It's accompanied by a fairly fancy (but older) URC MX-5000 remote.

My question is, will this unit work with LED bulbs?
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post #1578 of 1582 Old 10-29-2016, 10:18 AM
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I am considering a GRX-3106 for my new theater room and I have a few questions:

1. My installation should be pretty straight forward. The GE will only control the theater and no other switches/dimmers will be installed. Does that make it pretty much as simple as as wiring a gang of switches? My electrician has never even heard of this before.

2. Do they come with an IR receiver by default or is that an additional option? I would like to control it with a remote.

3. Am I correct that it may be unreliable when dimming LED lights? Should I just stick with incandescent with this unit?
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post #1579 of 1582 Old 10-30-2016, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I am considering a GRX-3106 for my new theater room and I have a few questions:

1. My installation should be pretty straight forward. The GE will only control the theater and no other switches/dimmers will be installed. Does that make it pretty much as simple as as wiring a gang of switches? My electrician has never even heard of this before.

2. Do they come with an IR receiver by default or is that an additional option? I would like to control it with a remote.

3. Am I correct that it may be unreliable when dimming LED lights? Should I just stick with incandescent with this unit?
GRX-3106 is discontinued, replaced by QSGRJ-6P.

Either will Allow for IR but 3000 series is on the front (have to stick a bug eye on the cover) and the current QS version as a rear provision.

The newer QS is pretty tolerant of LED but you may be forced into a interface adapter if it doesn't work. If you don't have many lights you may want to consider staying with incandescent or check that your LED's have been tested with a Grafik Eye (www.lutron.com/led).

Also consider their Radio Ra system. You can operate up to 10 pieces manually programmed without a repeater. and they have some specific dimmers for LED. If you opt for the repeater you can control from your phone / tablet also. You may spend a little more for the Radio Ra but you may work yourself into a hole with the Grafik Eye. Also, you can expand the Radio Ra 2 system to your entire home if you like it. You can get one of their basic packages (3 dimmers, keypad, repeater) for about the same price as the QS version of the Grafik eye. The Radio Ra 2 Keypads (regular wall keypads) will integrate your IR, in addition you can integrate with RS-232 or Ethernet.
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post #1580 of 1582 Old 11-01-2016, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
GRX-3106 is discontinued, replaced by QSGRJ-6P.

Either will Allow for IR but 3000 series is on the front (have to stick a bug eye on the cover) and the current QS version as a rear provision.

The newer QS is pretty tolerant of LED but you may be forced into a interface adapter if it doesn't work. If you don't have many lights you may want to consider staying with incandescent or check that your LED's have been tested with a Grafik Eye (www.lutron.com/led).

Also consider their Radio Ra system. You can operate up to 10 pieces manually programmed without a repeater. and they have some specific dimmers for LED. If you opt for the repeater you can control from your phone / tablet also. You may spend a little more for the Radio Ra but you may work yourself into a hole with the Grafik Eye. Also, you can expand the Radio Ra 2 system to your entire home if you like it. You can get one of their basic packages (3 dimmers, keypad, repeater) for about the same price as the QS version of the Grafik eye. The Radio Ra 2 Keypads (regular wall keypads) will integrate your IR, in addition you can integrate with RS-232 or Ethernet.
Thanks. My needs are fairly simple. I just want 4 zone scene controlled lighting that can be operated via remote. I would like to go with LED so it sounds like the Grafik Eye QSGRJ-4P would be sufficient. I do not want to spend the money new units go for so I am looking to Ebay. I don't think I want to spend more for the added functionality of the Radio RA units.

Does anyone know if it's possible to have a Harmony remote activate a scene when the pause button is pressed? So when the movie is paused the lights come up some?
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post #1581 of 1582 Old 11-10-2016, 06:24 PM
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Can the QSGRJ-4P be controlled by an RF remote? I looked on their site and some say non-RF but the list seems inconsistent. For example, they list the QSGR‑3P as non-RF but not the QSGR‑4P. My understanding is that the only difference is that one is 3 zone and the other 4 zone.
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post #1582 of 1582 Old 11-11-2016, 11:21 AM
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Can the QSGRJ-4P be controlled by an RF remote? I looked on their site and some say non-RF but the list seems inconsistent. For example, they list the QSGR‑3P as non-RF but not the QSGR‑4P. My understanding is that the only difference is that one is 3 zone and the other 4 zone.
From the best of my understanding the QSGR should technically be the Non-RF version, however I don't think they are available and they are the same price. So stick with the available QSGRJ version. You can control RF with one of their PICO controls.
If used in conjunction with RR2 equipment you can also control from your phone / tablet or 3rd party integration.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply
www.hankselectric.net
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