the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 1616 Old 02-17-2017, 06:28 PM
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What is the purpose of doing 18/2 to RJ45 breakout to cat 6 and then back again? Why not just run 18/2 all the way? I am getting ready to install my Grafik Eye and I was thinking about connecting a wire to the IR port on the rear panel. What do you connect the wire to? An IR receiver?

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post #1592 of 1616 Old 02-17-2017, 08:20 PM
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I still haven't hooked it up but yeah from what others have told me you cut into one if the ir blasters of the harmony hub and hook the 18/2 up

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post #1593 of 1616 Old 02-20-2017, 01:03 PM
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But why the need for the breakout box and stuff? Why cant you just cut the end off an IR extender and wire that into the GE?

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post #1594 of 1616 Old 02-21-2017, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
But why the need for the breakout box and stuff? Why cant you just cut the end off an IR extender and wire that into the GE?

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If you have an older 3000 series (31xx or 35xx) then it's not this easy....

However,

If you are on the QS series Grafik Eye there is simply a wired connection for IR on the rear connections by set screw terminals. Simply cut the actual IR blaster of the cable from your IR distribution and wire it to the Grafik Eye. (Orange Connector).
Googled this image from someone else:


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post #1595 of 1616 Old 02-21-2017, 06:31 PM
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Thanks for that! I do have the QS version and it is exactly like your picture.

I need to run the wire about 25 feet and it doesn't look like the cable on the emitter is the long. Could I just buy a long 3.5mm cable and cut off one end and connect it to the GE and plug the other end into the Harmony hub?

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post #1596 of 1616 Old 02-21-2017, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I need to run the wire about 25 feet and it doesn't look like the cable on the emitter is the long. Could I just buy a long 3.5mm cable and cut off one end and connect it to the GE and plug the other end into the Harmony hub?
Go to Home Depot and get ultra-cheap 18/2 solid thermostat wire. It's UL rated and can dwell inside the back of a high voltage box per code. You could also use just two conductors of a standard Cat5 cable.

You do not have to clip or artificially extend an emitter. That's just a waste of an emitter.
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post #1597 of 1616 Old 03-04-2017, 09:57 PM
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First post on this board, but the information but the information on this board has answered so many of my questions as I've been building out my house... except this one

I have an old Grafik Eye backbox in my (brick) wall. I want to eventually put in a new unit to control my Lights, however for this probably won't be for a year or so. In the meantime I'd like to cover it up and paint over it.

Has anyone ever seen a blanking plate for a Grafik Eye backbox? I've looked all over and not been very successful in finding anything.

Thanks.
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post #1598 of 1616 Old 03-05-2017, 03:13 PM
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Have a picture of this backbox? Does it contain wiring still?
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post #1599 of 1616 Old 03-06-2017, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by markst View Post
First post on this board, but the information but the information on this board has answered so many of my questions as I've been building out my house... except this one

I have an old Grafik Eye backbox in my (brick) wall. I want to eventually put in a new unit to control my Lights, however for this probably won't be for a year or so. In the meantime I'd like to cover it up and paint over it.

Has anyone ever seen a blanking plate for a Grafik Eye backbox? I've looked all over and not been very successful in finding anything.

Thanks.
This should just require a regular 4-gang blank wall plate. I would imagine most home centers to stock this but you can order online from a number of sites...

Also, if you haven't supplied the box already we recommend the deep (3-12") Masonry Box.

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post #1600 of 1616 Old 03-08-2017, 02:53 AM
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Have a picture of this backbox? Does it contain wiring still?
I am travelling at the moment so can't take a picture unfortunately. However it does still have wiring going into it(although they are not currently live).
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post #1601 of 1616 Old 04-10-2017, 10:14 AM
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LED dimming direct or via which module?

I have a Grafik Eye 2404 in my home theater, and I'm remodeling the kitchen and thinking of putting a 3104 or 3106 in there... but I'm also converting over to Halo H4 LED downlights everywhere.

Can the Grafik Eye 3000 control these directly, or do I need the ELV power module, or the Phase-Adaptive power module? Lutron documentation is super vague as to whether the GRX-ELV even exists any more, or if the ELV-1000 is the right one, or if the PAPM has replaced everything?
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post #1602 of 1616 Old 04-11-2017, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthew_eeph View Post
I have a Grafik Eye 2404 in my home theater, and I'm remodeling the kitchen and thinking of putting a 3104 or 3106 in there... but I'm also converting over to Halo H4 LED downlights everywhere.

Can the Grafik Eye 3000 control these directly, or do I need the ELV power module, or the Phase-Adaptive power module? Lutron documentation is super vague as to whether the GRX-ELV even exists any more, or if the ELV-1000 is the right one, or if the PAPM has replaced everything?
Matthew, the Grafik Eye (GE) is fairly tolerant of the LED but Halo often require ELV which means a PAPM. Specifically the H4 dimming Spec's say C-L type dimmer is best but we see in the field that although it may dim fine some of these dimmers make the LED buzz or hum requiring and ELV dimmer to get rid of that. Additionally if you have a zone with 1 or 2 lights only a PAPM may be required.

The current model of the Grafik Eye is the QS version (QSGRJ) which is RR2 compatible (3100 series is discontinued for years already, 3500 is still available). Depending on what you want to look at on the wall, and assuming you only have 4 zones, I would recommend a Radio Ra 2 (RR2) Hybrid Keypad and 3x RRD-6NA(ELV) dimmers instead. They would better handle the LED's directly without the need and cost of 4x PAPM. You may still need one with the keypad, depending on the actual load and LED module. Because of the Halo dimming inconsistencies I might discourage the Halo H4 and Recommend something from DMF (DRD2) or other that plays better with RR2 and GE(QS). Also from DMF dimming guide the DRD2 should be directly compatible with the QS version of the GE. Both are good brands though, I don't want to say the Halo is bad but if you go with it please plan on using the PAPM for best results.

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post #1603 of 1616 Old 04-12-2017, 01:26 AM
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I was following the suggestions for wiring into the back IR receiver port and after a bit of trial and error got my GE QS working with Harmony hub.

I am now trying to find IR codes and whilst I have located codes for controlling scenes I am trying to find codes to control individual zones (ideally as an on / off toggle). The goal is to have 6 buttons programmed that turn each zone on or off independently of the others. Any idea if this is even possible?

From what I can currently find I have codes that turn on a scene (but not off) so could programme a bunch of scenes, but then I would need 12 buttons to cover all 6 zones, which feels a bit clunky.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks
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post #1604 of 1616 Old 04-13-2017, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Snackers View Post
I was following the suggestions for wiring into the back IR receiver port and after a bit of trial and error got my GE QS working with Harmony hub.

I am now trying to find IR codes and whilst I have located codes for controlling scenes I am trying to find codes to control individual zones (ideally as an on / off toggle). The goal is to have 6 buttons programmed that turn each zone on or off independently of the others. Any idea if this is even possible?

From what I can currently find I have codes that turn on a scene (but not off) so could programme a bunch of scenes, but then I would need 12 buttons to cover all 6 zones, which feels a bit clunky.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks
I thought there was a way, but Lutron support(chat) just said no. If you were using in a Radio Ra 2 (RR2) System you can program the buttons to toggle but then it really treats the buttons like a system keypad in RR2. If you wrap your head around the Scene programming there is usually a way to make it work as it is intended. I like to tell people to think of the buttons more as uses for the rooms or activities in that space rather then intuitively using them as switches. Example in a theater you are going dim or shut the main lights, maybe have some walkway lights, perhaps dim some sconces etc.. So now you have a Movie Scene. You probably want an All On scene for cleaning and setup and maybe you use the room for entertaining, etc... All the buttons then take the room to the light levels associated with that activity. Going from button to button invoke the more recent scene with the bottom button being an Off scene. In reality, if you figure it out you probably only need a few scene if dialed in properly & depending on what you are trying to do in that area...

So if you do want to try you can program multiple scenes as you suggested and I think you can do as many as 16 scenes.

If you want to drop another few hundred dollars all that is required is a Radio Ra 2 Main Repeater and you can then program them however you want and expand on it throughout your home.

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post #1605 of 1616 Old 04-13-2017, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I thought there was a way, but Lutron support(chat) just said no. If you were using in a Radio Ra 2 (RR2) System you can program the buttons to toggle but then it really treats the buttons like a system keypad in RR2. If you wrap your head around the Scene programming there is usually a way to make it work as it is intended. I like to tell people to think of the buttons more as uses for the rooms or activities in that space rather then intuitively using them as switches. Example in a theater you are going dim or shut the main lights, maybe have some walkway lights, perhaps dim some sconces etc.. So now you have a Movie Scene. You probably want an All On scene for cleaning and setup and maybe you use the room for entertaining, etc... All the buttons then take the room to the light levels associated with that activity. Going from button to button invoke the more recent scene with the bottom button being an Off scene. In reality, if you figure it out you probably only need a few scene if dialed in properly & depending on what you are trying to do in that area...

So if you do want to try you can program multiple scenes as you suggested and I think you can do as many as 16 scenes.

If you want to drop another few hundred dollars all that is required is a Radio Ra 2 Main Repeater and you can then program them however you want and expand on it throughout your home.
Cheers Paul, good to know. I will keep experimenting and take a look at the Radio RA 2.
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post #1606 of 1616 Old 04-15-2017, 07:54 PM
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3106 update

Hi gang,

I have a 3106 Lutron Graphic eye, in my theater. It was installed around 2001.

Unfortunately it is in a spot where IR flashers don't reach well, and I'd like something that works better. Either Radio signals or wire - I ran conduit behind the Graphic eye, in case I ever wanted to run some type of control wire over there.

What are suggestions for something to replace my old 3106, with either radio control, Ethernet, or an IR wire perhaps??

I'd like something with minimal fuss and muss to replace my 3106, preferably Lutron. Something perhaps I could replace, or a local not HT type electrician could replace.

I'm also looking at that Harmony Universal remote that has both the iPhone app and a separate remote, I think it is the Ultimate. I've used UR for years and programming them is a PITA.

Many thanks!!
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post #1607 of 1616 Old 04-17-2017, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Hi gang,

I have a 3106 Lutron Graphic eye, in my theater. It was installed around 2001.

Unfortunately it is in a spot where IR flashers don't reach well, and I'd like something that works better. Either Radio signals or wire - I ran conduit behind the Graphic eye, in case I ever wanted to run some type of control wire over there.

What are suggestions for something to replace my old 3106, with either radio control, Ethernet, or an IR wire perhaps??

I'd like something with minimal fuss and muss to replace my 3106, preferably Lutron. Something perhaps I could replace, or a local not HT type electrician could replace.

I'm also looking at that Harmony Universal remote that has both the iPhone app and a separate remote, I think it is the Ultimate. I've used UR for years and programming them is a PITA.

Many thanks!!
The old 3106 can only take an IR "Bugeye"(blaster) on the face. So if it's in an equipment room this may be OK. Your other options were wired keypad with IR receiver or they had a ceiling mount GRX-IRI, (IR receiver that wire into the MUX link)

If you upgrade to the newer QS version (QSGRJ-6P) it has a wired IR on the rear, still has a keypad option, or if you incorporate it into their Radio Ra 2 (RR2) family you can potentially do APP/Ethernet control. RR2 will require at least the RR2 main repeater.

I think the most painless and universal way to integrate is IR depending on your abilities and equipment.

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post #1608 of 1616 Old 04-17-2017, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
The old 3106 can only take an IR "Bugeye"(blaster) on the face. So if it's in an equipment room this may be OK. Your other options were wired keypad with IR receiver or they had a ceiling mount GRX-IRI, (IR receiver that wire into the MUX link)

If you upgrade to the newer QS version (QSGRJ-6P) it has a wired IR on the rear, still has a keypad option, or if you incorporate it into their Radio Ra 2 (RR2) family you can potentially do APP/Ethernet control. RR2 will require at least the RR2 main repeater.

I think the most painless and universal way to integrate is IR depending on your abilities and equipment.
Thank you Paul for the reply.

I think I like options to utilize my existing GraphicEye. Can you explain these two options a little more for me please?? I googled them, but I'm not sure I understands them completely, and how they interact with my Graphiceye:

"Your other options were wired keypad with IR receiver or they had a ceiling mount GRX-IRI, (IR receiver that wire into the MUX link) "
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post #1609 of 1616 Old 04-18-2017, 03:45 AM
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People have opened up the 31xx series controller and installed an internal ir blaster right over the internal ir receiver.
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post #1610 of 1616 Old 04-18-2017, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thank you Paul for the reply.

I think I like options to utilize my existing GraphicEye. Can you explain these two options a little more for me please?? I googled them, but I'm not sure I understands them completely, and how they interact with my Graphiceye:

"Your other options were wired keypad with IR receiver or they had a ceiling mount GRX-IRI, (IR receiver that wire into the MUX link) "
Quote:
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People have opened up the 31xx series controller and installed an internal ir blaster right over the internal ir receiver.
Keep in mind you're asking to expand on product that is basically discontinued for a few years now, so obtaining some of these parts my be difficult or try eBay or ???

All they do is extend the IR receiving to a new device or location. So you can use your exiting IR distribution to send IR signals (codes) to the GE to activate different scenes. So whether you use 3rd party IR distribution and place a bugeye on or in your GE, or want to use one of the Lutron IR receivers to do it directly, these are your options. From your Lutron compatible remote you need to assign the correct scene to you button(s) or Marcos on your remote or control application. If you cannot find these code but have a "learning"remote you'll need one of Lutron's remotes to copy it from manually. However if you are using reputable stuff you should be able to find these codes online or part of the remote or application already.

You basically had these options when integrating IR to 3000 series Grafik Eye:

  1. Directly place IR bugeye onto the face ~~~ self explanatory~~~
  2. Hack your GE and place bugeye inside ~~~ for IR Blasters just need to aim in the general direction of the receiving diode (photo transistor?) ~~~
  3. Use GRX-IRI or GRX-CIR (click on those part numbers for installation instructions) if you can get you hands on one. These connect via 4wire MUX link connector on the Rear of the GE. The IRI just mounts anywhere in a single electrical box and basically gives you a spot to place an IR bugeye, the CIR is a circular ceiling mount unit that was cut into the ceiling or cabinet as a target and hardwired as well onto the same MUX link. Both of them only connect via the Grafik Eye 4 conductor wire.
  4. Alternately they made a seeTouch wired keypad (also mux link) that had an IR receiving window in place of one of the buttons. Still available as the SG-4SIRI

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Thank you!
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post #1612 of 1616 Old 04-22-2017, 03:58 PM
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Spirwx, I wasn't suggesting any Lutron gear be added, just a standard ir emitter be added inside the GE's case. This used to be fairly commonplace on the
AVS Forum years ago, and you'd never know any modification was ever made, if it was done right.
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post #1613 of 1616 Old 04-23-2017, 03:01 AM
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Hi again

So I have been trying to utilise the back panel IR connectors on my GE QS in order that I can control my lights via my Harmony hub. Results have been mixed, but I think I have found a solution, however bearing in mind I am of limited expertise (I am being quite generous to myself) on wiring I am curious to see if people recoil in horror at my "fix".

At present I have put a 2.5mm spliter on the back of the blaster 2 port on the harmony hub so I can run another wire to the GE whilst maintaining the existing IR blaster which is used elsewhere. I noticed that in having two devices running off the same output the voltage on my wire to the QS when a command was triggered was significantly lower (which I guess makes sense) and the QS would not respond. With just a single device the QS worked fine via my harmony remote. Being a logical (not necessarily clever) thinker I thought I could "boost" the voltage by introducing a battery across the circuit. Having cannibalised an old radio I have wired into the circuit two AAA batteries (see the diagram below). Running a test on this everything seemed to work, however I am curious / nervous that randomly sticking a battery into things might cause grief to the QS (or something else) even if it is only a couple of volts.

Am I a genius or idiot??
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post #1614 of 1616 Old 04-23-2017, 03:17 AM
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Picture was rubbish so trying again (since I cannot edit my post...)
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post #1615 of 1616 Old Yesterday, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Spirwx, I wasn't suggesting any Lutron gear be added, just a standard ir emitter be added inside the GE's case. This used to be fairly commonplace on the
AVS Forum years ago, and you'd never know any modification was ever made, if it was done right.
I agree it can and has been done commonly, just offering up all the options as some might not be as comfortable cracking the case on their GE. You can definitely do this without any other Lutron gear.
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post #1616 of 1616 Old Yesterday, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Snackers View Post
Picture was rubbish so trying again (since I cannot edit my post...)
From an obscure document for a semi-related product I'm assuming the IR should not exceed 20vdc and 5ma

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum.../EC-DIR-WH.pdf


Or how about running it through a 3rd party IR repeater to possibly boost the signal. Just trying to figure out how to get that battery out of there...


Not endorsing this, just suggesting to try something like this... Google "IR Repeater"
This one I found at https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/TTA-1403
But there are plenty of other options around the same price if you search...

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