Kagan Theater well underway PICS! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 340 Old 11-08-2005, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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My theater is well underway thanks to everyone in this forum. Your knowledge and kindness really has helped me out. Here are the latest (pretty much final) layouts. Tomorrow I will be posting all the framing pictures to be followed by ductwork and electrical. Thanks to all!

http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/1_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/2_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/3_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/4_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/5_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/6_kagan_theater.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/garykagan/v...ompersons4.JPG

Plans so far include the following:

Optoma H78 Projector
DaLite 133 diag cinema contour high power
Yamaha 2600 receiver
Sony DVP-CX995V
HTPC
Motorola HD cable box
Grafik Eye 3106 + 4 button wall station
Buffalo system IR
Ascend speakers
Center 340 SE
Fronts 340 SE
Surrounds 170SE
Subwoofer HSU

Coaster Studio Seating

Please give any feedback, I look forward to reading and commenting. Also, never underestimate the wife, the theater was half the size until she said move that wall and double the size!
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post #2 of 340 Old 11-08-2005, 10:48 AM
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Best of luck, Gary! Was wondering what was up with your theater. Keep us posted...

Bud
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post #3 of 340 Old 11-08-2005, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Bud, been putting in a full day every Sunday, and now nights after the wife and kids go to sleep. I plan on keeping the momentum and finishing framing and ductwork within the next 3 weeks. This will include the riser and stage. Applying for permits now, that will help keep me going as well. It's taking a while because I have to build the wife's workout room and the kids playroom at the same time. Gotta be fair!

I see you are back at it as well. Good luck to you!

Gary
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post #4 of 340 Old 11-14-2005, 07:28 PM
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Gary,

Plans look good! There are several that are having to finish out the whole basement as part of the HT project. Makes it a tad more expensive/lengthy/difficult project, but sure bumps up the WAF a bunch.

Good luck!
-Scott
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post #5 of 340 Old 11-15-2005, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Here you can see the rack, got it from work. They threw it out, I brought it home. What a deal!



Above theater framed out the ductwork with ladders. This will bring the finished ceiling to 7 1/2 feet. Started with 9 feet. That center path will be where the pvc pipe will go and all the wires to the front of the theater and to the projector.



Supply pile. Never seems to get any smaller.



Screen Wall. Other room beyond the screen wall is for the wife. I have more square footage.



Back left corner. I put a external door with weather stripping in for the door to the furnace area to keep sound at a minimum.



Back of theater. Furnace beyond wall. Those beams are for the riser. They will hang in the middle of the 2 x 12 frame.



Entrance to the theater. Need to take the doors down as they are not soundproof. Didn't figure that out until it was too late. So far my only mistake (big one)



Another shot of the pile.


Sheetrock pile. 1/2 on the left 5/8 on the right. Conduit pvc for the projector wires.

More to come!
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post #6 of 340 Old 11-15-2005, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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post #7 of 340 Old 11-15-2005, 07:30 PM
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looking good Gary!

that's quite the pile of drywall you have there Your riser design looks good, we discussed this at length as you recall. 84" is exactly what i went for in my HT, that's more than enough room.

I know your screen plans but which projector are you debating or what did you settle on? Can't wait to see this theater completed. What is your planned timeframe before showtime?

Serge Breton
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post #8 of 340 Old 11-15-2005, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Definately going with the Optoma H78. 120 diag screen, not sure which one though. I will have full light control since the room has no windows, need to research screens still. I started with the first purchase of wood in February 2005, but lately have been on a good pace. I would like to see the theater finished by end of April - but who knows.... Sure takes a long time to DIY.

Gary
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post #9 of 340 Old 11-17-2005, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Another big weekend coming up for the theater. Will have a team of 4 working down there. Should finalize the framing (I hope) and start on the ductwork.

I look forward to posting more pictures Sunday night.

Gary
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post #10 of 340 Old 01-12-2006, 01:37 PM
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Gary,

So how was that big weekend (er, big two months)?

Bud
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post #11 of 340 Old 01-12-2006, 06:01 PM
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looks good so far! Just to let you know though........... I spotted a water heater blanket on your gas water heater. not a good idea. Todays water heaters are so well insulated that you don't need a blanket. The main reason for ditching the blanket is that it is a fire hazard. All it takes is a blockage of your venting by some animal or foreign material and the flames can easily find their way to the blanket material. In michigan, blankets on gas water heaters are against code. Electric heaters are fine, but not gas. I've seen plenty of fires started by blankets on gas water heaters. I'm in the plumbing and heating business and thats how I've seen it first hand.
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post #12 of 340 Old 01-12-2006, 06:09 PM
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also, I'm not sure, because I can't see the venting on your furnace..............it looks like a newer furnace, maybe 80% with a combustion fan and maybe single wall pipe going off to a water heater tee. I can't tell the size now of your furnace room, but you may need to bring some combustion air into the room somehow from outside since you are also sealing the door to the furnace room. If the water heater and furnace don't get enough combustion air, they can burn poorly and over time cause sooting in the heat exchanger and vent pipe from the water heater. If I'm seeing what I'm seeing for the furnace room size, you will problably need a 4 to 6" makeup air.
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post #13 of 340 Old 01-13-2006, 12:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckaudio View Post

looks good so far! Just to let you know though........... I spotted a water heater blanket on your gas water heater. not a good idea. Todays water heaters are so well insulated that you don't need a blanket. The main reason for ditching the blanket is that it is a fire hazard. All it takes is a blockage of your venting by some animal or foreign material and the flames can easily find their way to the blanket material. In michigan, blankets on gas water heaters are against code. Electric heaters are fine, but not gas. I've seen plenty of fires started by blankets on gas water heaters. I'm in the plumbing and heating business and thats how I've seen it first hand.

I will look into that and appreciate the info.

Gary
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post #14 of 340 Old 01-13-2006, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckaudio View Post

also, I'm not sure, because I can't see the venting on your furnace..............it looks like a newer furnace, maybe 80% with a combustion fan and maybe single wall pipe going off to a water heater tee. I can't tell the size now of your furnace room, but you may need to bring some combustion air into the room somehow from outside since you are also sealing the door to the furnace room. If the water heater and furnace don't get enough combustion air, they can burn poorly and over time cause sooting in the heat exchanger and vent pipe from the water heater. If I'm seeing what I'm seeing for the furnace room size, you will problably need a 4 to 6" makeup air.

You are very correct. The plans I have submitted have details that show how I plan to make up air for the room. The riser which will be 1/4 off the furnace wall, will have 4 foot wide vents going into the theater room and the sides of the riser will have vents to suck in air. Also, I have a plenum running over the theater going to the next room over to get air from that room. I actually failed paper inspection the first round because the Fire inspector wanted more details on how I will make up air for the furnace. Thanks for looking out for us though. It is appreciated.

Gary
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post #15 of 340 Old 01-13-2006, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Gary,

So how was that big weekend (er, big two months)?

Bud

Yeah - yeah.... You've been there.... Kids, vacation, etc..

But, I will be putting in 2 days this weekend! Framing should be done by then. One more day of wiring and one more day of ductwork. Then I call in the inspectors.

Chairs are coming in Monday, already bought the projector (optoma H78 - awesome.) It's coming together slowly.

Gary
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post #16 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are my instructions on how to create a "fireproof" lightbox. What I mean by this is that I hope it is fireproof, so build at your own risk! I plan to use 65 watt bulbs, so I don't think the heat problem will be too bad. Here goes...



First of all, get yourself 1 sheet of 24 by 48 inch 3/4 MDF. This will be enough for 2 boxes.

Cut it up as follows:
bottom and top 9" x 9"
2 sides 7 1/2" x 7 1/2"
2 sides 7 1/2" x 9""

Break out the glue. Regular wood glue is what I used. Glue the ends, hold and nail together with 2" nails. It helps to have a nail gun.
Clamp it if you feel the need.




Another angle...



Now get the Hardi Plank. I used two sizes. 8 1/4" and 7 1/4" The space in the box was 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" for 2 sides and 6 3/4 x 7 1/4 for the other sides. This gave me the coverage I was looking for.
I don't recommend cutting this with a table saw in the house. Bad idea. The table saw works great, but do it outside if you want ever want a home cooked meal again.



Break out the automatic 29 ounce tube gun and insert a GREEN GLUE canister. nice.



Apply.



Stick these on the 4 sides



and then one piece on the bottom. Caulk with 100% silicone.



Separate the handy box and metal arm from the 6" can. I bent the arm and will use it later.


Here is the can ready to be used.

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post #17 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Take a 9" x 9" piece of hardi and find the center.


Attach it temporarily to the top of the MDF box.


Break out the Makita with a 6 1/4" round cutter. I used a 6" which is too small. I still need to resolve this.
If I can't get the 6 1/4" hole cutter, I may use the Dremmel with the circle cutter. It should work fine for MDF.


Cut the hole. Don't do this at 11:00 pm at night if the soundproofed double sheetrock is not installed yet. I'm on my own for dinner for another week...


The can fits nicely, but with a bigger hole, it will fit through the hole and have a lip to hold it in place.


Drill a hold in the side of the box and pass the wires from the can through. Attach the handy box to the side of the box, install in ceiling and wire up.




When I have them installed, I will post more pictures.

Let me know if you have any feedback on this approach!

Gary
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post #18 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Been a while but I finally had some time to post my pictures.

Lets start with framing.

Here is the steel door that I purchased for the entrance of the theater. It's pretty solid and was made with a 5/4 frame.
It's got a 8 1/4 jamb. I planned on 5/8 sheet rock in the game room and 1/2 + 5/8 in the theater. The wall is 5 1/2 inches.
I also added 1 inch for furring strips and GOM. 5/8 + 1/2 + 5/8 + 5 1/2 + 1 = 8 1/4.



I boxed out one of the poles here. Keep the wood off the ground, caulk the bottom.



Another boxed pole.



Furring strips on ceiling. This should decouple the sheetrock and have a similar effect like using clips to decouple.

Maybe not as good, but much cheaper and saves on ceiling height (my reason to do it this way).



More Furring strips on ceiling.



Gary
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post #19 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the riser I built. I used 2 x 12's for the frame. I cut out holes to vent air to the furnace room and holes for
duct work (air and heat).

Here is the plan I started with:











I put hockey pucks to hold the frame off the ground and to assist with the vibrations
for the buttkicker I will be installing.






That's me...
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post #20 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the front of the short riser. It will be about 5 1/4 high when finished. I cut
out holes for all the low voltage and power receptacles here. I also ran pipe under the riser
to contain the wires.









Here is the finished ductwork running through the riser.


More duct work


Hole for step light.


Other step light. Conduit will stop at front of large riser and allow for future wires to be passed from furnace room if necessary.



Just need to add the top and it's all set!


Gary
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post #21 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 08:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the stage I built. I used 2 x 6's for the frame. I used wolmanized wood for the base.
I could have used plastic instead, but this should make the stage less likely to vibrate.





That's my boy...



Subwoofer frame left



Subwoofer frame right






Finished middle frame
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post #22 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Added the round pieces


Another Shot


I need to add the front still. Will add sand to the sub frames. I will not be connecting
these to the middle frame. The sub frames will be floating.

Gary
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post #23 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some picures of my boy hard at work...He's only 2 1/2, start em early on the handyman stuff..

Sweepin time...


Daddy, don't do that...


He's got his own tools!


Are we done yet?


Break time...



Gary
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post #24 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Wiring wasn't too bad. My father-in-law did this stuff all his life and he offered to
help after the blackmail. He did most of the high voltage runs. My brother-in-law was kind enough
to help as well.

Sconces back right


Sconces back left


Sub panel 50 amp, back two sconces.


Here is the conduit I ran from the projector to the rack. Also from the stage area, bar, etc.

Here is what is there:

Monster cable 14/2 - 7 runs
RCA cable for subs - 3 runs
Cat5e for buffalo electronics eye (one in ceiling, and one by stage)
Cat5e for phone in bar
Cat5e for back wall
Cat5e for left sconce wall (arcade machine until the gameroom is ready)
Structured wire (2xRG6, 2xCat6, 2xFiberoptics)

For projector:
DVI - HD
Svideo
RCA
Component
3.5 mm cable for remote control with buffalo system




Another shot of the wire feeds



This channel runs through the center of the room. All the wires are channelled here.
There is a 90 degree white angle PVC where the projector will be.

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50 amp sub panel


Grafic eye (2) 4 gang box method. This is the top box and is facing the furnace room. The
grafic eye box will be lower and face inside the theater room.


Right wall speaker


Left wall speaker


Back wall outlets


Gary
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post #26 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 09:43 PM
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Hey Gary, great job. Glad to see your back at it. Did you plan on filling the stage (sand) and riser (insulation)?

Bud
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post #27 of 340 Old 03-10-2006, 11:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I will fill the left and right stage with sand and the middle with insulation. Not sure about the riser as air will be passing from the furnace room to the theater and I don't want people breathing fiberglass particles. Not sure what to do about this issue actually. Inspectors needed me to make up air for the furnaces from below and above so I had to use the riser for air flow. I figured under the seats and out would be quieter than a straight through hole in the wall.

Gary
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post #28 of 340 Old 03-11-2006, 07:25 AM
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Excellent work. Very detailed and professional looking riser. Are you going to go with two Buttkickers in there?
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post #29 of 340 Old 03-11-2006, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garykagan View Post

I will fill the left and right stage with sand and the middle with insulation. Not sure about the riser as air will be passing from the furnace room to the theater and I don't want people breathing fiberglass particles. Not sure what to do about this issue actually. Inspectors needed me to make up air for the furnaces from below and above so I had to use the riser for air flow. I figured under the seats and out would be quieter than a straight through hole in the wall.

Gary

Look at other forms of insualtion rather than the pink stuff. You'll want to put something in there.

Bud
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post #30 of 340 Old 03-11-2006, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank D View Post

Excellent work. Very detailed and professional looking riser. Are you going to go with two Buttkickers in there?

Thanks!!!

One buttkicker for the back riser and one for the front. The back one will be on the center beam in the middle, it should vibrate that mother pretty good.

The other one will be on the small front riser above the carpet as it won't fit in the 3 1/2 beams. It will be behind the Coasters though.

Gary
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