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post #1 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 12:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know where I can get simple riser plans.

I know it's pretty easy, but I'd rather use plans so that I don't forget something or do something stupid and have to rip the riser apart. I'm looking for something simple...6-8" in height since my ceiling is only about 7 1/2 ft. Planning also to install buttkickers in the riser.

Any advice would help. I searched and couldn't find anything.

Thanks,
Ryan
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 07:50 AM
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You can design the shape anyway you like.

Here are my thoughts on the riser though and the research I've uncovered.

1) The riser must be decoupled from the walls and floor to vibrate properly with the buttkicker LFE. It can be 1/8" away from the back wall, that would be enough. Using 1/8" rubber padding between the riser and wall may help with any vibrations from the LFE.

2) After making the outer frame, you can put frame hangers and beams running every 16 on center for support. If you are using 2x6 for frame, use 2x4 for hangers.

3) Add rubber feet to the riser to keep the wood off the floor (no wolmanized needed then) and this also helps with the decoupling. I'm going to use rubber hockey pucks with a drill hole in the centers and screen them into the base (bury the screw head)

4) Fill with insulation - R-13 will probably be fine.

I've included my design for my riser. I'll be building it next week or so. Pictures to follow.

Good Luck,

Gary
LL
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 07:57 AM
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Stage Design:

Might as well post this here as well. I am planning out my stage now. Here are my thoughts, anyone have any comments or thoughts?

Roofing felt on floor
wolmanized 2 x 4 base plates nailed into concrete wide side down on roofing felt
2 x 6 standing on edge to make the "half circle" front shape
2/6 hanging beams perp to back wall
back of stage to be nailed to back wall
will use flex plywood to make the visible "half circle"
r-13 insulation in riser
3/4 plywood on top
roofing felt
3/4 plywood on top
carpet

I can't make the decision on the sand as that would be a real pain in the arse.

Going to be using Axiom speakers M-60 or M-80 on the stage.

Any thoughts?

Gary
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garykagan
You can design the shape anyway you like.

2) After making the outer frame, you can put frame hangers and beams running every 16 on center for support. If you are using 2x6 for frame, use 2x4 for hangers.
This seems like it will have a great deal of flex (depending on the span). I've never seen a floor system built with 2x4s. Why not just use 2x6s (or 2x12s if that is the height) all the way?
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr
This seems like it will have a great deal of flex (depending on the span). I've never seen a floor system built with 2x4s. Why not just use 2x6s (or 2x12s if that is the height) all the way?
It's a stage with low static weight. A little flex is fine but there shouldn't be much in a small stage built with 2x4s. If it's just around 6 inches tall, then using 2x6s would make the work easier, but all these people using stuff like 2x12s are wasting money. I say there is no reason to buy a bunch of 2x12s for a stage or a riser when you can build the same thing with 2x6s on hangers. Plus with hangers, you get more decoupling from the floor while saving money and wood. I built my whole 2 level riser with 2x6s and the top level is 24" high. I could park my car on it.

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post #6 of 11 Old 11-14-2005, 11:54 AM
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The post I pulled that from was for building a seating platform (riser) not a stage. I don't think 2x4s will be adequate for any seating platform (unless it is only 4" high). 2x6s are a different story but still should only be for a small span. Floor systems are 2x8s or bigger.

Doesn't seem like you'd save all that much money after you buy the joist hangers, but I haven't priced it both ways so I could be wrong there.
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-17-2005, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies.

I am drawing up my plans on Turkey weekend and will post the finished results.

Regards,
Ryan
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-17-2005, 06:54 PM
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My risers are built with 2x6s, 12" OC with 8 foot spans (16 feet wide riser) and no joist hangers. I've had at least 45 people on my risers all at once and have never had a problem.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507...riserbuild.jpg

I suppose when you throw in the cost of hangers, then it might be more than the price of larger dimension lumber when considering a short height.

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post #9 of 11 Old 11-17-2005, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr
This seems like it will have a great deal of flex (depending on the span). I've never seen a floor system built with 2x4s. Why not just use 2x6s (or 2x12s if that is the height) all the way?
I'm sure it has already been said - didn't get to read everything here, but to answer your question, using 2x6 or 2x12 all the way is not only a waste of wood, it will make the riser TOO sturdy and the buttkicker LFE that I plan to install will not work as I want it to.

Without the buttkicker, I would still use smaller stock for the middle beams and use hangers or wood to rest them on.

I am building a 15 inch riser with 2 x 12's as the main vertical pieces and using
2 x 6's on hangers every 16" for the middle.

thanks,

Gary
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-18-2005, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garykagan
I'm sure it has already been said - didn't get to read everything here, but to answer your question, using 2x6 or 2x12 all the way is not only a waste of wood, it will make the riser TOO sturdy and the buttkicker LFE that I plan to install will not work as I want it to.

Without the buttkicker, I would still use smaller stock for the middle beams and use hangers or wood to rest them on.

I am building a 15 inch riser with 2 x 12's as the main vertical pieces and using
2 x 6's on hangers every 16" for the middle.

thanks,

Gary
[emphasis mine]

As I said before, 2x6 is probably fine (and Tox proved it). But 2x4s (as was suggested) seems waay too light for any sort of suspended floor system. I don't have the Buttkickers so never considered it but I'm sure you're right about that.

Tox - you really had no choice but to use a joist system for the rear part of your riser. How high is that thing? Also, your picture pointed out one other advantage of the joist system - makes running conduit much easier. Nice work.
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-18-2005, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr
Tox - you really had no choice but to use a joist system for the rear part of your riser. How high is that thing? Also, your picture pointed out one other advantage of the joist system - makes running conduit much easier. Nice work.
The shorter part of the riser is 14" tall and the back row is 28" tall. The ceiling is 12' tall so I had some room to play with. I have 8 theater style seats on the back row. The grey tube on the left is actually for the blown insulation I filled the riser with. You can barely see the conduit under the plywood that the drill is sitting on. That conduit goes under the floor to the rack. And yes, building the riser this way made using a conduit in the riser very easy to install. And since the sides are studs covered in plywood, it also made adding boxes for electrical and speaker wire for shakers very easy to add. In the following picture, you can see the conduit in the face of the top riser and the boxes in the face of the bottom riser. One box for riser rope lights, one for AC plugs and the third wired for the shakers. The top riser had the same boxes after everything was completed and the seats hide the boxes from plain site.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/507...riserframe.jpg

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots. Me being one of them at times.

My HT Website in progress.
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