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post #91 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, just added Option #6. I don't think I'll get the WAF on this one but made it anyway
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post #92 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:23 PM
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Any way to keep the detail but give yourself a few more inches on the sides of black? You do lose a lot of detail (the WAF factor) with option six, although probably best with the lights off!

Bud
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post #93 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:25 PM
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Option 5 or 6 gets my vote.

I have my screen on a very dark blue wall (WAF meant black was out). Once the lights go down, the wall looks black anyway and the picture just appears to hang in space.

Very nice as you get drawn into it.

Darrin
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post #94 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Any way to keep the detail but give yourself a few more inches on the sides of black? You do lose a lot of detail (the WAF factor) with option six, although probably best with the lights off!

Bud

Bud,

Okay, there is now an Option #7 as you descibed above. I may be able to get this one passed the wife. Let mm know if this is what you were talking about.
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post #95 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:45 PM
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Steve,

Exactly. Looks great. I officially change my vote to number 7!

Bud
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post #96 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 01:49 PM
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#7 looks good. That is my vote.

Ernie
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post #97 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post


I like the emboss effect on the wood where you had the X in the middle. Can you please share how do to that?

Here is my wild guess: Cut a 1/2 think plywood. Make the shape you like and stick it to the other plywood underneath it.
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post #98 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:40 PM
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Hey Steve...nice work. Another vote for 7 here. I think it will make your picture jump out more. 5 was nice too...

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post #99 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:43 PM
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I also like #7. Very visually appealing.

Ronnie
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post #100 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1rtu0s1ty View Post

I like the emboss effect on the wood where you had the X in the middle. Can you please share how do to that?

Here is my wild guess: Cut a 1/2 think plywood. Make the shape you like and stick it to the other plywood underneath it.

He hasn't done them yet (I think), but the way I would do it is use a router with a straight bit. Then just paint the inside black.

Ernie
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post #101 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:47 PM
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Black is a must. I just finished my screen wall, about to update my thread in a few. The black sucks you into the movie. #6 or #7.

Ruben

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post #102 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 02:58 PM
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Of course #7!!!
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post #103 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 03:44 PM
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#7 !!!
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post #104 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1rtu0s1ty View Post

I like the emboss effect on the wood where you had the X in the middle. Can you please share how do to that?

Here is my wild guess: Cut a 1/2 think plywood. Make the shape you like and stick it to the other plywood underneath it.

Big Worms got it right. It will start with 3/4" MDF with maple veneer applied to the top. Then using a straight-edge, I'll make the grooves with a 1/2" router straight bit (just like SandmanX/Ruben did on his columns). Then I will insert the 1/2" aluminum strips into the notches to make the finishing touch.

I have not done these yet but when I do, I plan to document the process.
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post #105 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 04:50 PM
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#7

-Brian
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post #106 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like the overwhelming majority like #7. Thanks guys I'll run it by the wife this eve and see what she thinks.
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post #107 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Big Worms got it right. It will start with 3/4" MDF with maple veneer applied to the top. Then using a straight-edge, I'll make the grooves with a 1/2" router straight bit (just like SandmanX/Ruben did on his columns). Then I will insert the 1/2" aluminum strips into the notches to make the finishing touch.

I have not done these yet but when I do, I plan to document the process.

So, all I need to buy is a plunge-router tool and the straight-edge bit. Thanks guys for the information. It helps me a lot. By the way, do you have a full picture of that picture you showed to us?
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post #108 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Looks like the overwhelming majority like #7. Thanks guys I'll run it by the wife this eve and see what she thinks.

We're IN Had the 5min meeting with the wife and Option #7 was the winner. This will make the build process easier too -- yea!!



Thanks again guys.
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post #109 of 2998 Old 02-08-2006, 09:01 PM
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5 minutes? It took that long? Man, she must be pretty picky. Did you tell her I said it was OK?

HA!

Bud
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post #110 of 2998 Old 02-09-2006, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Did you tell her I said it was OK?

HA!

Bud

LOL!!! She did take her time to look through every option. She deleted ones she did not like until there were only a few left. I had to sell her a bit on the one with a larger black border.... but in the end, everyone was happy
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post #111 of 2998 Old 02-09-2006, 08:51 AM
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Im also planning on doing a home theater room. Have you started making your absorbers yet? Also where exactly will you place them?
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post #112 of 2998 Old 02-09-2006, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciotime View Post

Im also planning on doing a home theater room. Have you started making your absorbers yet? Also where exactly will you place them?

No, I have not started on them yet. They will be placed on the front left and right corners of the theater (behind the false wall). The corners will be full from front to rear (24" wide, 24" deep x 8' tall) with cotton. Sandman used the same stuff. Here it is below from his construction thread (Ruben, hope you don't mind the pic-link).


One thing I'm doing slightly different is to run the material vertically instead of cutting it into a bunch of 2'x2' pieces stacked horizontally (like Sandman did). I'll need to make a simple 1x2 frame to hold it upright (to reduce compression). I plan to make a frame something like this.
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post #113 of 2998 Old 02-12-2006, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Weekend Update...


Click Here to Enlarge Photo
This is the NEW front wall. Notice the roomy false wall area behind the screen. This will make the front entertainment center very shallow since the speakers and sub woofer will live inside that area.



Click Here to Enlarge Photo
I made a diagram for the front wall to detail exactly where I would put every stud. I know this seems like overkill but you would not believe how much this helps in the planning process to get things right the first time.




Click Here to Enlarge Photo
This is a rendering of the final front wall design.


Watch out Bud, I'm building up speed and trying to catch up with you
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post #114 of 2998 Old 02-12-2006, 06:09 PM
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Steve,

Looking good! I think I've got a target on my back now...

Bud
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post #115 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 10:41 AM
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Steve

Boy, 7 choices, no wonder you're having a hard time making up your mind.
Personally I like #6. I think it's because the screen is the prominent item on the wall. The other options (for me) emphasize the woodwork. Also in a timesaving sense, #6 cuts down on the amount of detailed woodwork that has to be done.

You know the more you think about this the harder a decision is. Now I'm coming up with reasons for one of the others because I really like nice woodwork. What we are deciding on is the visual effect when entering the room with some or all of the lights on. If the theater is light controlled, then the woodwork will disappear when the lights are turned off. That said I like #5 or #7.
I have a real hang up with the light tan fabric, it would be great with the lights on but I'd be afraid it would be too visible even in a darkened room. Personally I'd go with any option that didn't use the tan fabric.

It's your theater to live with, you need to decide. Which one does your wife like? How about getting some brown craft paper, black & white sheets and make a mock up?

Good luck
George
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post #116 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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George, thanks for the comments. I welcome any suggestions as this is a work-in-progress. And, since I'm doing it myself, it does not cost too much to change things as I go

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeIII View Post

Steve
You know the more you think about this the harder a decision is. Now I'm coming up with reasons for one of the others because I really like nice woodwork. What we are deciding on is the visual effect when entering the room with some or all of the lights on. If the theater is light controlled, then the woodwork will disappear when the lights are turned off. That said I like #5 or #7.

As far as the woodwork -- my wife and I really like it. It is more work (for me) but I want the room to have a nice crisp and modern appearance when people walk in (with the lights on). Once the lights go off, yes the "wood" effect is minimized -- but hopefully if I do it right, the low lighting will take over from there (and the movie too LOL!).

I plan to have 6 lighting zones in the room. Each column will have a light shooting up at the angled vault (just for effect -- wife did not want wall sconces), rope lighting around the coffered ceiling, fiber stars inside or above (have not decided yet) the coffered ceiling and finally 9 can lights (3 front, 3 middle and 3 rear) each row on a separate zone. So making the lighting "just right" should be easy to do.


Quote:
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I have a real hang up with the light tan fabric, it would be great with the lights on but I'd be afraid it would be too visible even in a darkened room. Personally I'd go with any option that didn't use the tan fabric.

Honestly, I feel the same way. The bummer part is GOM 701 (or GOM Vertical Surface Solids 2402) does not come in a dark brown color that is acoustically transparent. All the walls will be a chocolate brown (GOM Anchorage 2335 - 2083 Coffee Bean). The brown anchorage is not AT so it cannot be used for speakers. WAF will not allow black over the speakers.

If I could find a dark brown AT material to cover my speakers, I'd use it. But as of right now -- I have not been able to locate anything that would work. If anyone knows a fabric that will work and is AC, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!
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post #117 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

If I could find a dark brown AT material to cover my speakers, I'd use it. But as of right now -- I have not been able to locate anything that would work. If anyone knows a fabric that will work and is AC, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

George,

Looks like you got me thinking more about that. I found about 4 places that have this color but only this one had what looks like the dark brown that I'm going for (to match the walls). Here is an image of the fabric:


It is available here for $15/yard. I've requested a sample, we'll see what happens.

Simply Speakers

I had my blinders on as I was ONLY looking at GOM. Thanks for opening my eyes.
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post #118 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

George,

Looks like you got me thinking more about that. I found about 4 places that have this color but only this one had what looks like the dark brown that I'm going for (to match the walls). Here is an image of the fabric:


It is available here for $!5/yard. I've requested a sample, we'll see what happens.

I had my blinders on as I was ONLY looking at GOM. Thanks for opening my eyes.

Where did you find that stuff? Is it FR?

Also, to bad we have to be concerned with what it looks like with the lights on. It would be nice to finish it out in linacoustic, turn the lights off and call it done.

Ronnie
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post #119 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_jackson View Post

Where did you find that stuff? Is it FR?

Also, to bad we have to be concerned with what it looks like with the lights on. It would be nice to finish it out in linacoustic, turn the lights off and call it done.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

You hit the nail on the head as far as finish out. It is a lot of work but it will be so much fun once it's done.

I updated my post above to include the vendor link. I meant to put it in the 1st time -- sorry.

Steve
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post #120 of 2998 Old 02-13-2006, 01:00 PM
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cool, thanks. I was hoping you were talking about wall fabric. Oh well.

Ronnie
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