SWithey Home Theater Construction - Page 59 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1741 of 2998 Old 01-10-2007, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkjack View Post

totally off topic but i have to do this very same thing . have you ever sanded and re-stained a table before or will this be a first time adventure? i am looking for pointers as I don't want to screw up an expensive table, chairs and buffet. i keep telling the wife that we should hire this job out but she looks around at all of the stuff I have been doing lately and seems to think I should be able to do it and i am trying to get out of a honey-do item.

Sorry for the delay getting back with you on this post! This is the 1st time I've refinished a "stain-grade" table. This is a slightly distressed solid pine table we bought at Pottery Barn about 10 years ago -- so getting it "perfect" is not as important. If you are dealing with some nice furniture with a glossy finish, you are really in a workout. Sanding it down is also delicate balance. If you sand too much in a single area, the stain may not take (or take too much) and not match the rest of the wood. Also, if it has a veneer finish (vs. solid wood), you could sand through the veneer to the wood below. You really need to know what you have so you can consider all your options.

Mine is not quite done yet. With the colder weather, the oil-based stain is taking longer to dry. Hopefully I can get a coat of Poly on it later this week. I plan to put (3) coats on the top and (2) coats on everything else.

I'm not sure if I answered your question. Let me know if you have any others. Feel free to PM me as well.
swithey is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1742 of 2998 Old 01-10-2007, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_jackson View Post

You guys are INSANE!!!! I WANT ONE

Ronnie

Yes we are and you definitely want one - no doubt about it!
swithey is offline  
post #1743 of 2998 Old 01-10-2007, 08:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chinadog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 5,481
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 24
Steve,

Starting to think we need to move this thread to the Speakers section! I know, I know, we can move mine to the Accessories area, Gameroom area, Smartass area and/or Guys that Drink too Much Beer area....

Bud
chinadog is offline  
post #1744 of 2998 Old 01-11-2007, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Steve,

Starting to think we need to move this thread to the Speakers section! I know, I know, we can move mine to the Accessories area, Gameroom area, Smartass area and/or Guys that Drink too Much Beer area....

Bud

Just wait until I add the smell, water misting and air canon modules to the room like at Walt Disney World. I'll bet MarkP is working on that next
swithey is offline  
post #1745 of 2998 Old 01-11-2007, 11:38 AM
Advanced Member
 
jikkjack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: GA
Posts: 994
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Just wait until I add the smell, water misting and air canon modules to the room like at Walt Disney World. I'll bet MarkP is working on that next

Dude. I watched that on TV last night too while I was eating dinner.

jikkjack is offline  
post #1746 of 2998 Old 01-11-2007, 11:21 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mark P's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Dallas OR
Posts: 1,773
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Just wait until I add the smell, water misting and air canon modules to the room like at Walt Disney World. I'll bet MarkP is working on that next

No water or air cannons but I did check into the smell thing. Not real practical.
Mark P is offline  
post #1747 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 01:09 PM
Advanced Member
 
ifeliciano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
YO Stevie Boy!!

Any updates?
ifeliciano is offline  
post #1748 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ifeliciano View Post

YO Stevie Boy!!

Any updates?

Not much to talk about. I have the kitchen table just about completed. Because of the cooler temperatures we've been having, we brought it into the house to apply the poly. I have 3 coats of semi-gloss on the top and sides. It turned out pretty good. It's knotty pine with scratches from the kids -- but it does look more like furniture now vs. a craft table I'll try and post some pics once it is completed.

Next up (at the wife's request) is to build the cup holders/mini-condiment tables for the seating. Yes, yes I know.. why didn't I just get media seating with cup holders already installed? I'm sure everyone knows -- you pick you battles. She wanted a particular look for the seating and that look did not include a cup holder. NOW -- she wants them -- go figure

Anyway, I will be building something like this. Another AVSer, EC/Eric Chong has the same chairs I have and built these. Mine will be based on this design. I have not decided if I will paint them black with stainless cups or do a full maple shelf with the stainless cups. (4) will be built -- 2 for the front and 2 for the back. I plan to build a prototype out of MDF and pine to be sure she likes it before I build them for real. It should be fun. I know I'll enjoy having them as well. I hate holding a beverage for the entire movie.




Here is my 1st draft at the design -- which may change. And yes, I have to draw everything before I build It's so much easier to make mistakes on paper vs. in the garage after 4 hours of work. I'm still trying to figure out what to use as dead weight on the bottom plate (so the table does not tip over). I could melt some lead but not sure I like the idea of dealing with lead. I'm thinking about looking for some 1/4" thick steel pieces and stacking 2-3 of them together. Steel Buck-Shot may work as well. I also considered making some small custom concrete bricks. Any other ideas anyone?


BTW -- how's it going on your Son's desk? Did you ever get started? Any Pics??
swithey is offline  
post #1749 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 04:06 PM
Advanced Member
 
ifeliciano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

BTW -- how's it going on your Son's desk? Did you ever get started? Any Pics??


Huh ? What?.... Nope and he's been asking about it since we both started feeling better after the flu during the holidays.
Luckily for me he's 5 so I can get his mind off the desk fairly easy with a "Let's make some cookies" or "Your mom is going out for Ice Cream, you should go".

Since the boy and I like football so much we're waiting 'til after the Superbowl to start on it.
Also we're in version 3.17 because everytime we go out to look at furniture I get new ideas for the desk.

Ivan
ifeliciano is offline  
post #1750 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 05:59 PM
ebr
AVS Special Member
 
ebr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 3,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Hmmm....I need a small table for my new EO (so it doesn't get in the way of the cupholders I do have). That looks like a good option for that. Thanks for the idea...
ebr is offline  
post #1751 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 06:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
SVonhof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Manteca, Ca, USA
Posts: 4,029
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Steve, for your weight, look at www.mcmastercarr.com and scroll down to the bottom right category "Raw Materials and Springs" and click on "Metals". From there, you can look and see what is available in different materials. The two best choices would be lead and steel. I can get you some info tomorrow on how much the weight would be for a particular size (I don't have Pro-E at home) based on sizes. I did a quick search and found that in steel, they do have some 1" thick plates that are 6" wide and 11 3/4" long (you would have to modify your base design a tad) that holy crap I didn't know how much that was going to cost, never mind the steel! That was way too much money! They do have lead, which is much cheaper, but still expensive.

How about making the base out of concrete, like you first said?!

Scott
 

SVonhof is offline  
post #1752 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 08:36 PM
Advanced Member
 
accts4mjs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 842
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
STEVE YOU ARE AWESOME!!!

Man, I have been scratching my head for months trying to figure out how to build something for cup holders for my sectional -- yes, I wanted theater seats but like you said you pick your battles

I think I'll take your design and have it angle back over the edge of the couch for the table to be close enough. Ahh...I feel like a big weight has been lifted. Can't wait to draw up a design or two (I like to draw my stuff first too).

Where are you getting the stainless cup holders?

Thanks a million!!

Mike
accts4mjs is offline  
post #1753 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 09:08 PM
Advanced Member
 
ifeliciano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

I'm thinking about looking for some 1/4" thick steel pieces and stacking 2-3 of them together. Steel Buck-Shot may work as well. I also considered making some small custom concrete bricks. Any other ideas anyone?


Steve,

If possible, how about making the base larger and fill with concrete. Lead shot would be okay too, but I understand your concern with lead. Or since you are on the second floor Why not use wood screws and fasten them into the subfloor ?



ifeliciano is offline  
post #1754 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ifeliciano View Post

Also we're in version 3.17 because everytime we go out to look at furniture I get new ideas for the desk.

Ivan

I'm with you on the changes. That is the nice part about taking a bit longer to get to things - more time to look, think, compare ane make changes/improvements Please keep us posted on your progress!
swithey is offline  
post #1755 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 09:51 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!

I figured steel was pretty expensive. If I do use lead, I will seal it up inside the wood so little hands cannot touch it. The concrete option sounds pretty simple and not too messy. Ivan -- a larger/thicker base is doable especially since it will be mostly hidden anyway.

One other idea my wife came up with is to extend the back of the base so the legs of the chairs can sit on top of it. I could use piece of 1/4" plexi or birch ply to allow the weight of the chair to hold everything down. I mentioned screws to my wife and she did not want screws put through our new carpet (once we get it installed). I agree and kind of like the idea that they could be easily removed if I ever decided to temporally convert the room into a disco/karaoke room for a "girls" slumber party

Hmm - just had an idea. What about BBs? Pour them in a trough built into the base and then pour/mix some poly in to make it a solid rock. A container of 6000 copper BBs is only $6.65 at Academy Sports. The atomic mass of copper is high -- so it might be a good cheap weight option.

Aluminum: 26.9815 amu
Iron: 55.847 amu
Copper: 63.546 amu

swithey is offline  
post #1756 of 2998 Old 01-16-2007, 11:14 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
YldeSyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 106
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
ummm, since your floors are wood why don't you just screw or bolt them to the floor?

YldeSyde
YldeSyde is offline  
post #1757 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 01:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
miltimj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 3,259
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I agree with the screwing into the floor option. What kind of carpet will it be? If it's got any kind of thickness to it, it won't be noticeable when they're removed.

I also thought of widening it and putting the chairs on it, but I suppose it depends how heavy and stationary the chairs are. You don't want to sit down, have it slightly move, which ends up moving the tray. That would get annoying.

The BB idea sounds like a good, cheap option. Does it have a weight listed for the full container?

Actually, if you're looking for a dense material, why not just use a few gold bars? They'd be plenty heavy..
miltimj is offline  
post #1758 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 06:00 AM
Member
 
chrisnoland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
How about if you make them so it attaches to the bottom of the chairs... then when the chair moves the cup holder moves with the chairs. Also if you want to remove it would be "easy" as flipping the chairs over.

Chris Noland
Flower Mound, TX
www.thenolands.com
Media Room in Progress


DFW SMPTE - Past Chair
SMPTE DFW
chrisnoland is offline  
post #1759 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 07:52 AM
Advanced Member
 
ifeliciano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Actually, if you're looking for a dense material, why not just use a few gold bars? They'd be plenty heavy..


So is Uranium and Plutonium.. I know this Russian guy....
ifeliciano is offline  
post #1760 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 01:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Chas821's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
AFAIK the copper BBs aren't solid copper at all; they're lead cores with copper cladding. Solid copper would be MUCH more expensive.

Chuck

Perfection is highly overrated!!!
XBL GamerTag: Chas617
Chas821 is offline  
post #1761 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 02:46 PM
Senior Member
 
Winkelmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 422
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'd go with lead bird shot, it's smaller and heavier (in less space) than most BB's. You can buy a 20# bag at Bass Pro Shops.

Please visit The Cuban Underground
Winkelmann is offline  
post #1762 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 02:57 PM
Member
 
chrisnoland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 54
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
also i would have to do the math but not sure how heavy the bottom would have to be... but I think it would have to be a ton... to support any weight on the angle and the weight of the top and the structure itself... I am thinking 10 lbs.

Chris Noland
Flower Mound, TX
www.thenolands.com
Media Room in Progress


DFW SMPTE - Past Chair
SMPTE DFW
chrisnoland is offline  
post #1763 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 06:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
SVonhof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Manteca, Ca, USA
Posts: 4,029
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I was thinking more than 10 lbs, because of the lever arm that is attached to the base. It's rather tall, which doesn't help, but what does make it at least a little better is where the weight is going to be, which is further away from the pivot point of the base.

Scott
 

SVonhof is offline  
post #1764 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by accts4mjs View Post

Where are you getting the stainless cup holders?

I forgot to answer this part of your question.

I have not decided on a final vendor but found a few on the net. Sometimes e-b-a-y has some deals as well. I'll need (8) for my setup and a lot of them come in lots of 10. I think I'm going to get the over-sized version to accommodate a larger variety of glasses.

http://www.casino4you.com/casinogamblingsupplies.htm

http://pokerchipsets.ca/poker_access...FQ4egQodPwymEg

http://www.vegassuppliesandgifts.com...PROD/Acc/SSCH/

And glad my "stolen" idea from EC works for you I'm off to the garage to start on the prototype.
swithey is offline  
post #1765 of 2998 Old 01-17-2007, 11:45 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I got the cup holder/condiment table prototype built this eve. Turned out just as expected. It did not take long and has some good strength. I'm still not convinced I love the look but we'll see what the wife has to say. I have decided to make the entire top piece veneered maple with a ton of poly for protection.

Here is a side shot. I built it with ¾ MDF for the top and bottom. The stem support is 1x3 pine.



Here is a shot of the bottom and top. I used some hard-wood ¾x¾ pieces to attach the stem to the base and top. Brad nails and a good helping of wood glue did the trick.




So - how much weight did it take to keep this thing from tipping over you ask?? Well, with nothing on the top shelf, it still needs some weight - maybe 3-4 lbs.

Loaded up with (2) cokes and (2) bottles of water, 8lbs was almost enough if the water was located in the rear of the table (closest to the seating). 9lbs would do the trick.



But I wanted to be daring and put everything on the front most part of the shelf. Each of those green hand-weights are 8lbs. Using (2) of them at 16lbs was perfect. You can put some good pressure on it (even when loaded up with the drinks) and it will not want to topple over. I'm thinking I may be able to just build a 1.5 deep pocket for the entire base (12"x12") and fill it with playsand. I'll then put a ¼ piece of material on top to seal it up.



Here it is installed in the room between (2) chairs. I sat in one of the chairs and it will work out pretty well. I still need to cut the holes for the (2) stainless cup holders.






If anyone was interested in how the table turned out - here it is. The pics makes it look a bit more red than it is. It has a semi-gloss finish on it. Not too bad for a 10 year old pine table.

swithey is offline  
post #1766 of 2998 Old 01-18-2007, 07:04 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
dc_pilgrim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Central... PA
Posts: 4,617
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Nice work Steve. So much good stuff to mine from this thread.
dc_pilgrim is offline  
post #1767 of 2998 Old 01-18-2007, 07:11 AM
AVS Special Member
 
SVonhof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Manteca, Ca, USA
Posts: 4,029
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Steve, how stable is the table in side-to-side rocking? If it has a little more rocking than you want because of the single 1x3, you could add a 1x2 on the front of that 1x3 to stiffen it up some and it looks like it wouldn't get in the way at all.

Also, I would say that you may want to do some experaments with the play sand to make sure it gives you enough weight. And remember that if if you get the sand further away from the pivot point, it will be much less prone to tipping. It looks like you have the room under the chairs to make the base go further back if needed.

BTW, just be prepared for the first time a newby comes over and gets out of the chair and applies pressure to the table and it tips forward until the base hits the bottom of the chairs and the sodas hit the floor. If it can happen, it will at some point.

Scott
 

SVonhof is offline  
post #1768 of 2998 Old 01-18-2007, 07:11 AM
AVS Special Member
 
mastiff34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Very nice work steve, very nice!

Loganed on 4/8/2008

List to be completed
Install blinds - DONE
Finish plumbing my bathroom - WIP
Build EQ Shelves - WIP
Program insteon - DONE
My Build Thread
mastiff34 is offline  
post #1769 of 2998 Old 01-18-2007, 07:36 AM
Advanced Member
 
ifeliciano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Awsome ! ...Where do you find the time ? I must be the worst time manager ever.
ifeliciano is offline  
post #1770 of 2998 Old 01-18-2007, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
swithey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: D/FW, TX
Posts: 2,642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks again guys for the kudos.

Ivan -- I must force myself to make the time. We do have Superbowl in (3) weeks (I think) and want to get more done before we have the crowd over. My wife was talking out of both sides of her mouth again saying why I don't have more done and also requesting for items out of scope (like the table). Oh well, we'll get there one of these days
swithey is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off