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post #1 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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GranTheaterO is in the middle of development as well as the rest of my basement. GranTheaterO is a play off the acroynm for my other passion, the GTO.

I see that pictures are really the key to getting feedback and input on the project so I will include a bunch.

The first set of photos will bring the project up to about the end of December:



I will post more photos soon. Also if anyone is interested in the other rooms (from the drawing in the above link) let me know and I can post more.

I will caution you ahead of time I am not nearly as skilled as some of the members, I am building a solid but basic home theater. Hopefully leverging the skill and expertise of this forum I wont miss anything major. Thanks in advance.

I am building a dedicated HT in my basement and trying to do it right based on what I have read and know. The room (14'x 20' with 8' ceiling) is below the kitchen/Dining Room (w/ Hardwood floors). Going with the 5/8"/ GG / 5/8" on walls and ceiling as Brian recommends.

Currently planning to use the U-boat floaters (EPM rubber shaped in a U to fit on the 1.5" edge of a 2x4) I have for the sub floor combined with double 3/4" floor board. Ceiling will be RSIC-1. Walls are 3" from concrete (2 sides) double wall on 1 side & buffer utility room on the other (1/2" drywall on the utility room side).

I was approved on rough inspection last week for the construction, electrical & plumbing aspects of the entire project so I'm ready finializing some last points, running some last low voltage wires and starting to insulate. Next major step is for the drywall crew to preload the materials & start.

Anyway, I have a few questions at my current state that I'm hoping to get some help on.

1. I read somewhere that I should be adding additional support in the walls (2x4s) horizontally to firm up the wall, I think they were called "stringers"?. I cannot remember where I read it but it seem to make sense and has stuck in my mind. Should I add additional boards? On the one closed wall (drywall on each side) I could see it potentially creating resonance problems but what about the open walls (facing concrete with 3" gap and double non-touching wall)? What do you recommend, is there an advantage to adding additional framing and tightening up the structure?

2. Ducts pipes above? I have at least 5 duct pipes (6" round sheet metal) running from side to side in the rafters above. My though was to use "Reflectix insulation, MLV (I have a bunch) and fiberglass insulation. Any thoughts?

3. Floating floor - I've heard mixed reviews on floating floors. I already have the U-boat floaters, should I use them? If so, any suggestions to minimize negitive impact on sound?

4. Electrical boxes - I was planning to seal each box with acoustical caulk and MLV. Is this ok?

5. Any other last thoughts would also be appreciated. Better safe then sorry at this point, I have a lot invested in this room (at least sitting in boxes ready to be used )

Thanks,

Dave


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post #2 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm working on a picture for the left margin, anyone know how to take a higher res photo and scale it to the requirements easily?

I'm also planning to join this forum, Its a great place to get info and a worthy cause.

Here's an idea of what I'll be using in the theater:

Have today:
Speakers
Klipsch RF-35s front (Crossovers improved with (6) French Solen brand Capacitors)
Klipsch RC-35 center
Klipsch RF-35 surround (I know way too much for a surround, hoping to sell the pair on e-bay)
JBL E10 rear surrounds (hopefully only temporary)
JBL E250 subs (I have 2 of these)

Amp/Audio
Rotel RB-985 THX amplifier (5 channel)
Pioneer receiver VSX-914K (Used as a preamp)

OtherMedia Center PC
X-box

Planning to purchase:
Speakers
Klipsch RS-35 - matching surrounds for the Klipsch system
Klipsch RB-15 - Rear surrounds, as the article on the main page of AVS points out these little speakers rock & can be had for $200 new on ebay.

A/V
Sanyo PLV-Z4 Projector - I've wired for it anyway
Toshiba SD-6980 DVD Player - Seems like best bang for the buck
Time Warner HD Cable box
Updated preamp - not sure yet, any recommendations?
2 channel amp for rear surrounds, any recommendations?
Screen - unknown, to start I might just paint the wall

Photo link coming very soon.

Dave


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post #3 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, here are the photos:

Link

Dave


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post #4 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm having a little trouble getting started tofay but on my way to HD to get a truckload of insulation some more RG6 and some 16-2 wire. The 16-2 is for the rooms other than the HT.

I uploaded a few picts to Fotki but I still do not know how to link to the direct image. As soon as I learn how to do it I will include photos directly in the thread.

Here's the link to the new photos --> New Photos

Photos show some of the last wiring including:

Wire from cabinet to projector:
1 HDMI
2 Component
1 S-Video
1 composite
1- VGA
(wired for Sayno PLV-Z4)

I also wired (2) component video cables to each of two locations on the main level of the house from the HT cabinet. Those location are the master Bedroom and the Great Room. The 100' component vide cables were only $32 each so I ran 2 to each location. I should be able to stream quality video or audio in either direction. Plus from when the house was built there are other wires already in place to these locations.

I'm about half done with the HT wiring. In front I have:

Left & right sides:
2 14-2 for bi wired speakers
1 RG6 for Sub
1 CAT5e - can't have enought of these (IR, automation, network, etc.)

Center
2 14-2 for bi wired speakers
1 CAT5e

Sides and rears should be done today after a trip to HD.

Bye for now,

Dave


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post #5 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I didn't get back into the HT room but I did wire the bar/TV room for the 7.1 setup I was planning. This room will use all in-walls. I bought some inexpensive 4" speakers to get me started, 2 for the front & 2 for the surround. Eventually I'll replace them and put 2 of the 4" speakers in the bath.

Luckily for me the 2 locations where I need access to vent dampers (code here in my city) is where I will install the rear surround in-ceiling speakers. The inspector asked about it and was ok with my solution.

I also ran audio for music into the game room, the workout room and the bathroom.

I ran a few extra RG6s & CAT5s as well.

All wires go to my utility room along with the 6,000 feet of cable I ran when I built the house, I think I have a problem

Dave


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post #6 of 247 Old 01-08-2006, 11:12 PM
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Dave,
Your project looks great and it looks like you are making fast progress. Are you doing all the work yourself?

I'm not an expert, but here is my input on your questions in your first post...
Quote:
Originally Posted by GranTheaterO View Post

1. I read somewhere that I should be adding additional support in the walls (2x4s) horizontally to firm up the wall, I think they were called "stringers"?. I cannot remember where I read it but it seem to make sense and has stuck in my mind. Should I add additional boards? On the one closed wall (drywall on each side) I could see it potentially creating resonance problems but what about the open walls (facing concrete with 3" gap and double non-touching wall)? What do you recommend, is there an advantage to adding additional framing and tightening up the structure?

Unless they are required by code in your area, I wouldn't bother with the stringers. I think you will be fine with your stud walls as they are.

Quote:


2. Ducts pipes above? I have at least 5 duct pipes (6" round sheet metal) running from side to side in the rafters above. My though was to use "Reflectix insulation, MLV (I have a bunch) and fiberglass insulation. Any thoughts?

Do any of these duct pipes have an opening into the theater? If so, it will be a major source of sound leakage to the rest of the house. If they just run over the theater, and go to registers in other areas of the house, I would wrap them in your extra MLV and fiberglass.

Quote:


3. Floating floor - I've heard mixed reviews on floating floors. I already have the U-boat floaters, should I use them? If so, any suggestions to minimize negitive impact on sound?

I don't know about floating floors using U-boats. Maybe someone else will chime in here...

Quote:


4. Electrical boxes - I was planning to seal each box with acoustical caulk and MLV. Is this ok?

Yes, seal these as well as you can. Sound will leak out through the smallest of cracks.

Quote:


5. Any other last thoughts would also be appreciated. Better safe then sorry at this point, I have a lot invested in this room

If you are concerned about sound isolation, which it appears you are, I think you may want to reconsider the double door entry to the theater. Double doors are much more difficult to deal with for sound isolation than a single door.
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post #7 of 247 Old 01-09-2006, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Scott,

Thanks for your imput/answers. I just recently started the thread but the project has been going on for about 1 year now. We built the house and moved in 2 years ago this April. I have been planning the basement for at least a year prior, as soon as I had the plans.

Although the thread is new, I started the work about 1 year ago. I did all of the framing, a bunch of the HVAC, and 1/2 the electrical. Local codes required licensed electricians and plumbers so I had to bring them in. Luckily the electrician worked with his partner and son for one day and let me do the rest. The rest being the HT where I have lots of circuits

Stringers, thats what they are called. I think I'll take your advice, the more I think about it I think the structure will be pretty solid with the drywall in place and, as my wife calls it, the "over-engineering" I regularly add to my projects.

Duct pipes only run straight across so I'll seal them and then cover them with the MLV & fibergalss, thanks. Supply and return are accessible from the Utility room and can always be upgraded with more soundproofing if necessary. I bought 2 6" duct mufflers, they seem to work pretty good but we'll see.

The U-baot floaters seemed like a good idea when researching but I think some, including Brian, have receommended against floating the floor. Here's the link to the product:

U-Boat floaters link

I'll wrap the electrical and low-voltage boxes well.

As for the door, it was a trade off to have a door on the room at all. I also have the bar room as a buffer with double doors to the stairway landing, this should help.

I'm looking forward to finishing the wiring and insulation and then I finally get a crew of workers to help. I did the drywall in my last basement and I'm letting the experts do it this time .

Dave


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post #8 of 247 Old 01-09-2006, 07:25 PM
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Dave,
It sounds like we are both about on the same track. I moved into my new home in March two years ago. I started planning my basement project before we moved in, but didn't start building until last July. I also am doing almost all of the work myself, but will contract out the drywall. Just got bids this week.

This is my second theater to build. Technically, it is a media room rather than a dedicated theater. I wanted a dedicated room, but just couldn't fit one in my space and still meet my other priorities for a pool table, bar area, bedroom, bathroom, etc. I'm still very concerned about sound isolation so I am applying all of the sound isolation building techniques to my entire basement. I sure hope it works because I've spent a ton of time and money on it. I've not started a construction thread since it is not truly a dedicated theater, which is what this forum is supposed to be, and also there are so many excellent construction threads already going! (I'll probably post a few pictures when I'm finished. Hopefully you guys with dedicated theaters won't run me off the forum.)

I got a kick out of your statement "All wires go to my utility room along with the 6,000 feet of cable I ran when I built the house, I think I have a problem." I ran almost two miles of low volt cable when the house was built and I ran about another 4,000 feet in my basement. I think i have a PROBLEM too! My wife says I just like the pretty colors of all the wires and whenever I ordered more, she would just ask what color it was this time.

I also chuckled at your reference to "over-engineering" your project. That is pretty polite compared to the descriptions I get... "picky", "anal", "too detailed", "ridiculous", "obsessive", and the list goes on. Even some of the inspectors who have signed off on my worked have looked at me with that look in their eyes that says "I think your crazy". Do you ever get that look when your explaining floating floors and walls, sealing electrical boxes, RSIC clips, hat channel, double drywall, and GreenGlue?
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post #9 of 247 Old 01-09-2006, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Scott,

No work today but I did upload a few more photos. I'd be interested to see what your working on, let me know if/when you decide to publish some photos.

Here's the Marquee entrance, I'm planning to mirror the shape as I build the subfloor into the room.

Marquee Entrance


Wires from the main and upper floor


Many of the wires are sensors for home automation. The box on the right is an HAI Omni Pro II Home Automation controller. I was a little nervous to experiment with it on the main floor so the basement will be my proving ground.

The word I hear often is "obsessed". By the time the basement is finished I'm sure I'll have another 4,000ft to add to the number, maybe I'll shoot for an even 2 miles.

I'm hoping tomorrow night to get some more wiring done and maybe start wrapping the ducts. I'll take more photos as I go.

Dave


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post #10 of 247 Old 01-09-2006, 10:02 PM
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Dave,

Looks like your coming right along and about the same place I am. I moved in my house in Sep 04 and started working on my basement in March 05. I haven't really done anything in the last couple of months but really need to get back into it. Where did you get your component cables at? And when you say component you are talking about colorstream right? Thanks

Craig,
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post #11 of 247 Old 01-10-2006, 04:44 AM
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Dave,
The link to your pictures must be broken now, but I found them at this site.

Your marquee entrance looks very impressive. How are you planning on lighting it? There was a thread here a month or so ago that showed some pretty impressive entrances. The shape of yours reminded me of this one, although I don't know if yours will have the same lighting affects.

Your wiring looks like a huge project. I'm not overly familiar with whole house automation and the HAI Omni contoller. Are the sensor wires mostly cat5 or does it use some other type of control wire?
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post #12 of 247 Old 01-10-2006, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakeyez View Post

Dave,

Looks like your coming right along and about the same place I am. I moved in my house in Sep 04 and started working on my basement in March 05. I haven't really done anything in the last couple of months but really need to get back into it. Where did you get your component cables at? And when you say component you are talking about colorstream right? Thanks

Craig,

Hi Craig, Sometimes these projects go in phases, I did absolutely nothing from April to July and picked it back up in August and have been working steady since. Good luck with your project.

I bought my component video cables at MCM Electronics. I get their flyers with order and in the mail, their prices are ok but sometimes they have blowouts where you can get a good deal. I believe Toshiba calls them colorstream, should be the same thing.

Jump back into you project, you'll be gald you did when you get a chance to look back, good luck.

Dave


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post #13 of 247 Old 01-10-2006, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

Dave,
The link to your pictures must be broken now, but I found them at this site.

Your marquee entrance looks very impressive. How are you planning on lighting it? There was a thread here a month or so ago that showed some pretty impressive entrances. The shape of yours reminded me of this one, although I don't know if yours will have the same lighting affects.

Your wiring looks like a huge project. I'm not overly familiar with whole house automation and the HAI Omni contoller. Are the sensor wires mostly cat5 or does it use some other type of control wire?

Hi Scott,

Looks like I'm having problems with the links. There are 2 circular holes on the underside that will house small can lights with a blue glass ring. I'm actually hoping I can somehow mount letters to spell out the "Now Playing" movie but that's down the road.

Wow, the lighting on your link is impressive but more than I'd want to do right now.

The HAI Omni controller is well know in the automation industry, if I remember correctly is the only Security/Automation system that is UL listed. It works off the security system mainly; for example when you leave and set the security system to "Away" it can do any number of things like turn off lights, set the thermostat back, turn off the stereo, etc. It uses If then logic and flags for programming. I plan to mainly use it to save energy, control "scene" lighting in the basement and alert me of activity outside of the house when I'm in my soundproof room. I'll add some info on the hookup and programming when I get there if anyone's interested.

As for your question, all of the sensors are wired with either 22-2 or 22-4. You could use cat5, might even be more economical versus multiple runs. The 22-2 is used for passive sensors (door swiches, window switches, pressure mats, etc.). The 22-4 is used for powered devices like motion detectors and heat detectors.

By the way, I tacked down some wires and fished the bar room TV wires through the wall this evening but cannot do too much once the family goes to bed (no power tools no hammering).

Dave


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post #14 of 247 Old 01-11-2006, 06:10 PM
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That is looking pretty phenomenal Dave! Remind me to never try to break into your house! Seriously though, all of your guys' build threads are killing me! If I only had a house and the budget... I have something of a make-shift theater, but I still live in a campus house (rental) so I can't do anything serious like this...yet. Keep the pictures coming, they're keeping my dreams alive!
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post #15 of 247 Old 01-13-2006, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the words of encouragement.

RISC-1 clips for HT ceiling arrived today, all that's left to buy is the channel from HD. This weekend is insulation. I'll make sure my camera is handy.


Dave


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post #16 of 247 Old 01-17-2006, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Insulation is complete in all but the Home Theater. I also completed a number of small but open items like:

- Magnetic switch installed in front door (above workout room)
- Ran Driveway Monitor wire through Bath to be buried by the driveway at a later date
- Trimmed the demolition at the basement stairs landing area so drywallers can easily merge the new drywall to the old
- Removed the basement light circuit and rerouted it to the utility room
- Assembled a couple of temporary plugs to get light out of the ceiling cans
- Wired an outlet box to each of the treyed ceiling areas
- Wired for some additional lights by the fireplace
- Ran empty conduit from Utility room to basement TV area
- Rerouted the doorbell transformer to the utility room
- Started to caulk (Using DAP Dynafelx 230 - Premium Elastometric Latex Sealant) - This stuff is as close to acoustical sealant as you find for less than 1/2 the cost.

Here's some pictures from the insulation phase: --> Link

Home Theater is next.

Dave


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post #17 of 247 Old 02-01-2006, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for not posting in a few days (ok, a week and a half). I did a lot of work over the last several days. Work and links:

- Insulated all duct pipes running across the room in the rafters above. I wrapped this duct in Refletix insulation and then MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). The rest of the ducts (2 full ducts and 2 partial ducts) in MLV only. Too thick with both. --> Link to picture

- Wrapped all oulet boxes in a interwoven MLV wrap. Sealed all gaps with caulk. --> Picture#1 Picture#2 Picture#3 Picture#4 Picture#5 Picture #6

- Created MLV umbrella (for lack of a better term) over the top of the 3 openings in the ceiling --> Picture#1 Picture#2 Picture#3

- Insulated the room. --> Picture#1 Picture#2 Picture#3

- Wrapped the ceiling boxes directly in MLV --> Picture#1 Picture#2 Picture#3 Picture#4

- Built small monitor display niche for behind bar in main room. The idea here is that activity in the driveway, garage or outside will trigger the automation system to 1) Turn on the monitor 2) select the right camera and 3) Display it on the monitor. --> Picture

- I also finalized countless items throughout the basement that you cannot see not to mention cleaning the entire basement for the drywallers. All of the pictures for the insulation can be found in a dedicated photo album. --> Album

I have a couple of open issues as I move forward. Any thoughts would be appreciated:

1) Should I build a Proscenium? I never planned this specifically and with the electrical panel on the front wall it may be difficult. Picture#1 Picture#2

2) Acoustical treatments. Looks like Linacoustic is the way to go. What should I do with the 2' x 4' recessed areas on the back wall? These were originally intended for diffusion. Room is 14' x 19' and may be too small for diffusion. Picture#1 Picture#2


That's it for now,

Dave


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post #18 of 247 Old 02-01-2006, 09:23 PM
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Wow Dave, you are making great progress! The pictures are great.

Personally, I really like prosceniums for dedicated theaters. I think they are one of the features that really set a dedicated theater apart. As for your electrical panel, I think a stage and proscenium may actually help to cover it. Have you seen the front wall and proscenium that chinadog is building here?

For your acoustical treatment, you may want to consider hiring Terry Montlick or one of the other acoustical experts to give you a plan that is specifically designed for your room and setup. I had Terry model my room and I thought his fee was quite reasonable. Due to the large size and non-traditional shape of my media room, I probably have more acoustical treatments than the typical dedicated theater. Terry recommended a combination of linacoustic and FRK foil faced OC 703.

If you don't hire an expert, the typical recommendations seem to be either:
1) Treat the whole front wall and first 3 or 4 feet of the front side walls from floor to ceiling with 1" of linacoustic (or other similar absorption). Then treat the rest of the room with 1" of linacoustic on the walls below ear level. Above ear level, it seems many people use poly batting (all covered in GOM);
-OR-
2) Treat the entire front wall with absorption (Linacoustic) and then treat all first reflection points with 1" or 2" of linacoustic.

In both scenarios above, it seems many people recommend that you put in as many broad band bass traps as you can accommodate. Typically this means OC 703 (or any 3 lb rigid fiberglass) straddeling the wall corners and wall/ceiling corners. The recessed areas in the back of your room may be a great place to install some thicker rigid fiberglass to gain some extra bass absorption. Since it is above ear level, maybe the outer layer of fiberglass should be foil faced so that it does not absorb too much of the higher frequencies.

Obviously, I'm not an acoustical expert and I don't know if the "typical" recommendations would be appropriate for your room or not.

Keep up the good work. I'll look forward to seeing drywall pictures. My drywall goes up next week too.
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post #19 of 247 Old 02-02-2006, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feeback Scott. I really appreciate the summary. I've read some of the acoustic threads and sometimes its hard to pull out the key items.

I also forgot to mention that installed the RISC clips and hat channel. Easiest part of the whole basement project. Other than the strain of screwing seventy 2 1/2" screws into the ceiling it was a pretty straight forward and fast job.

The drywallers stoped by in the afternoon but didn't start as they only had a few hours and I couldn't meet them due to job commitments. They will be here tomorrow at 7:30am and we'll do a walkthrough. A few concerns I need to share with them and make sure they don't short circuit the double wall in the back and other items.

Carpet guy came this evening and measured for the carpet. In the home theater here's what I'm considering:

1. Stage, I'm planning to build it over the sub floor (or should I build it as a part of the sub floor?). I was planning to carpet right up to it and then over the top of it. The room will always have a stage. Are there any other options that make sense like building it so it can be removed?

2. The riser I'm planning to have as a separate item as it will be in the middle of the room. Could be taken out of necessary.

Am I being non-committal or should I just pull the trigger and make this room dedicated?

After working nonstop for the last month and a half I find myself anxious to do something, its almost like I'm down there looking for things to make perfect.

Dave


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post #20 of 247 Old 02-02-2006, 07:38 PM
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I am about to start a new thread but am waiting to take pictures. As you mentioned, I felt that pics. are the key to feedback. I would like to chime in on the "stringers" questions you posted. I am considering doing them as a horizontal fire block in my basement. I feel they are more for fireblocking than strength. But I am not an expert on these matters.

I am also finishing the entire basement in my new house as well. I knew i wanted to do something grand for an entrance and really like what you are doing. I think I will "borrow" from yours...hope you don't mind.

I must also say that after you stated that you are not an expert and was going to do something basic, i was surprised and impressed with your results. Keep going...you are inspiring me!


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post #21 of 247 Old 02-02-2006, 07:41 PM
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By the way Dave, my name is also Dave. I am new to posting feedback on this forum and are still getting comfortable with the options. I am gong to add my picture soon...you should too.


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post #22 of 247 Old 02-02-2006, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GranTheaterO View Post

I also forgot to mention that installed the RISC clips and hat channel. Easiest part of the whole basement project. Other than the strain of screwing seventy 2 1/2" screws into the ceiling it was a pretty straight forward and fast job.

I agree.
Quote:


1. Stage, I'm planning to build it over the sub floor (or should I build it as a part of the sub floor?). I was planning to carpet right up to it and then over the top of it. The room will always have a stage. Are there any other options that make sense like building it so it can be removed?

I don't follow what you mean by building it over vs. part of the sub floor. ????
Quote:


Am I being non-committal or should I just pull the trigger and make this room dedicated?

If I had your space, I'd pull the trigger in a heart beat.
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post #23 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 07:49 AM
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Dave,

What software did you use to lay out your plans. Mine are drawn by hand, I have Punch! software but found it a little difficult to nail all the details.

Dave


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post #24 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainAsh View Post

I am about to start a new thread but am waiting to take pictures. As you mentioned, I felt that pics. are the key to feedback. I would like to chime in on the "stringers" questions you posted. I am considering doing them as a horizontal fire block in my basement. I feel they are more for fireblocking than strength. But I am not an expert on these matters.

Hi Dave,

I'm not sure about the fire block, it would have to be a continuous solid wall in my opinion to be considered a fire wall. Any exposed wood corners or gaps I would think would disqualify it. I was considering a curved wood fireplace using a thin birch plywood but the facing had to be 5/8" thickness to prevent fire. Also Firewalls and ceiling around here have to be 5/8" firecode approved drywall. (luckily my HT will have 2 sheets of 5/8" ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainAsh View Post

I am also finishing the entire basement in my new house as well. I knew i wanted to do something grand for an entrance and really like what you are doing. I think I will "borrow" from yours...hope you don't mind.

Please feel free. I came up with the idea by looking at theaters, older ones on the web. I also did a drive by of our local Marcus theater. I knew how wide I wanted it, the depth I had way off, my wife was able to steer me in the right direction. Once I had those 2 dimensions I layed out the plywood on the floor (over 2x4s) and connected an 8' 2x4 to the middle. See picture.

Using a leftover single peice of 16 guage wire, a pen and a long nail at the radius point I was able to trace it out easily as the center of the circle/arc is well inside the edge of the wall. I hope this makes sense.

Then I simply cut it out, traced out another and added 2x4s to the desired height. I assembled it in 2 pieces to get it up on the ceiling. I work alone most of the time and find that ceiling work needs to be planned and thank goodness for those hand clamps, they have amazing hold strength.

I'm saving the plywood template as well so that I can cut the matching subfloor plywood when the time comes.

Good luck with your basement project send me a link when you start your thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainAsh View Post

I must also say that after you stated that you are not an expert and was going to do something basic, i was surprised and impressed with your results. Keep going...you are inspiring me!

My design and plans are very dynamic. The more I read and hear, especially on this form, it seems to make a lot of sense to not cut corners and go the extra mile to have a special HT room. I don't want to regret "not" doing something, especially the minor stuff that I learn along the way. Thanks for inspiring me as well.

Dave


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post #25 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainAsh View Post

By the way Dave, my name is also Dave. I am new to posting feedback on this forum and are still getting comfortable with the options. I am gong to add my picture soon...you should too.

After messing around with Ulead Photo Express and Paint I have this Avatar. I apologize if it's a little fuzzy (maybe it's better that way ).


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post #26 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ0007 View Post

I agree. I don't follow what you mean by building it over vs. part of the sub floor. ????If I had your space, I'd pull the trigger in a heart beat.

Hi Scott, I was wondering if I should build the sub floor in the whole room (say 4" high) and then build the stage on top of it (another 7" high for a total of 11" at the stage)? I have to do a little more research.

The other option was build the stage (say 11" high) and then build the subfloor up to it (4" high). As the stage is filled with sand should it rest on the sub floor or the concrete floor?

I hope that makes a little more sense.

I've gone this far so once I understand the best thing here I'm sure I'll make the right trade offs.

Dave


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post #27 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainAsh View Post

Dave,

What software did you use to lay out your plans. Mine are drawn by hand, I have Punch! software but found it a little difficult to nail all the details.

Dave

Hi Dave,

I'm not at all familiar with Punch. I used Microsoft Visio for Enterprise Architects, version 10.0 is what I have. I like it a lot, once you know how to use it it's very powerful. I'm planning, now that I have some down time, to design the floor plan in detail in the HT room as well as a front view of potential Proscenium add. When complete I'll post these in the thread.

One other thing I'm considering is being able to add photos (via a link) that show up directly in the thread. I've done some research and fotki charges $50 year to host pictures with this capability. The free hosting service I use now dynamically changes the address (my issue in the first several links). Anyone know a more reasonable solution?

Dave


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post #28 of 247 Old 02-03-2006, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Met with the owner of the drywall company this morning before he went on vacation (scheduled well in advance). He had his lead guy working alone today.

He started in the Home Theater with the 5/8" 12' sheets! I was skeptible but here are the results --> Pictures of Drywall

He did the first layer, used about 19 sheets, more than half as they only ordered 34 sheets. I was a little disappointed that they didn't seal the seams so we could start the second layer right away tomorrow. (now we'll have to wait for the compound to dry).

He had a lift but I'm still amazed that he could manage that many 12' sheets of 5/8".

The room looks great, really starting to take shape.

I'll be applying the Green Glue when we get to that stage. Time to brush up on the instructions.

Dave


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post #29 of 247 Old 02-04-2006, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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This morning we have 3 drywallers working in the basement. I helped the lead drywaller mud the HT room earlier to prepare for GG. Once mud drys we will start the GG.

Anyway I went downstairs to look at the work order for a post on another thread and I thought I'd include this quantitative information about the drywall portion to my thread, it may be helpful:

Here's the materials that were ordered.

34 - 4'x12'x5/8" (1632 sq. ft.)
2 - 4'x14'x1/2" (112 sq. ft.)
53 - 4'x12x1/2" (2544 sq. ft.)
5 - 4'x12'x1/2" (240 sq. ft.) Green board for bath
1 - 4'x8'x3/8" (32 sq. ft.) Flex board for Marquee curve HT entrance

Total of 4,560 sq. ft. Included in the quote is installation, rosin paper on floor, mudding, sanding, knockdown finish for all 1/2" work. The 2 layers of 5/8" in Home Theater with a smooth finish. Basic mudding for the first layer and dealing with me installing the GG. It does take a little longer.

Quote was $4,761 or about $1.04/sq. ft. I assume it was $1/sq. ft. but they ordered a little extra. I live in Wisconsin near Milwaukee.

Dave


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post #30 of 247 Old 02-04-2006, 09:40 AM
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I'm glad you posted your totals for drywall. I am considering having the drywall done so it is good to get prices from others.

Does the price of 4,700 include the sheetrock?

Did they carry it downstairs or do you have a ground-level walkout?

I do not have a walkout, so I am limited to 8 footers because they have to be carried downstairs. Glad to see the progress...

Dave


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