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post #181 of 855 Old 10-02-2006, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jikkjack View Post

staining takes a lot more time than I thought...here is a picture of some of the columns and inserts after a pre-coat of wood conditioner and 1 coat of stain. I still have to put two more coats of stain on and 1 or 2 coats of poly. I think I might be able to have them done by the end of this coming weekend.

Yes but it is going to look great when you are done! What kind of wood is that?
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post #182 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks xnaron. It is birch wood. I should have the final coat of stain on tonight. Then tomorrow night I will put on the poly.

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post #183 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 09:54 AM
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So which one of you gentlemen is throwing the first HT meet? You're both about 6 miles in either direction from me so I don't care who volunteers first - just remember I prefer imported beer!

Ben

Ben & Jason,

Figure on Sunday, 10/22 for a little gathering over at my place. Say 2:00 PM? Can do some burgers/dogs on the grill and have a few cold ones. Let me know if that works. I'm not calling it a meet, but if date/time works for you I might post in my thread and see if people want to come by.

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post #184 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 10:40 AM
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and finally the carpeted theater!!! I can't wait to get the fabric up. Currently, I am staining all of the wood for this room and selecting a paint color for the bar. More pictures soon.


Your room is really coming together. I like the carpet color - it looks like a rusty red or is it more brown? Once you get that fabric on the walls, it will really give the room a "finished" look. Getting close!
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post #185 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Bud - Sounds good. I will be there.


Steve - it is a combo of dark brown and rusty red. More brown than red in person but definately more red than brown in pictures. Once the staining is done, then I really only have to hang the fabric and put up crown/base molding to be finished. I can't wait. Before I hang the fabric - I am going to get bpape to look over room accoustics. It sounds fantastic but I am sure there is probably room for improvement.

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post #186 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 02:13 PM
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It's been a while since I checked your progress and I was just able to get caught up.

My heart about stopped when I saw you had the speakers mounted, and I thought "Well, that's it, he has gone and really done it now, he will never get finished!"

Congratulations on not falling into that trap, I know I would!!! The projector and speakers have to wait to the end for me, I wouldn't have had the self control you showed!

The stain looks great, did you have any issues with swirls or some areas soaking up too much stain? I tried to stain a solid pine 6 panel door and had a lot of problems.

My perpetual home theater build - Omaha Theater #5
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post #187 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

I tried to stain a solid pine 6 panel door and had a lot of problems.

For soft wood like pine, you need to apply a pre-conditioner prior to the stain. Make s a huge difference. You can get conditioners for either water based or oil based stains. I used the water based ore-conditioner and stain. Very easy to clean up.

http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/index.cfm

Bud
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post #188 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks nebrunner. Bud is right. I used a pre-stain conditioner and had no issues at all.

I just finished my 2nd coat of stain and everything looks great. I am pretty sure that the semi-gloss poly will darken the look some...but don't know how much. I can't decide at the moment if I need a 3rd coat of stain or not. I should know by tomorrow. I am going to give the 2nd coat overnight drying time to determine if I need a 3rd coat.

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post #189 of 855 Old 10-03-2006, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Theater should look very different by the end of this week. I should be able to get all of the columns installed (or at least that is the plan as of right now).

My high-def comcast box is scheduled to show up this thursday...I had to wait over a month to get a HD box.

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post #190 of 855 Old 10-10-2006, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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After 3 coats of stain and 3 coats of semi-gloss poly - I am finally done with the columns and inserts. Here are a couple of shots with the column fronts installed. The sides will be black GOM wrapped pieces of wood to match the walls.


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post #191 of 855 Old 10-10-2006, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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In this shot, you can see the dark chocolate brown color I painted the bar.


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post #192 of 855 Old 10-10-2006, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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By the end of this weekend - I should have the base trim on the bar (painted same chocolate brown color) and will finally finish painting the back of the solid pine door black. I should also have the rest of my furring strips cut and installed. And...will be hiring Bpape to help me with room accoustics. Bryan - are you ready?

I will also be painting the sconces to resemble a hammered dark brown metal.


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post #193 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 09:42 AM
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Those columns look great! Painting the sconces brown should look great and blend well with the columns and bar.

When do you plan to start on the wall fabric?
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post #194 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 09:56 AM
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The columns do look really nice. The sconces really set them off.

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post #195 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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steve - I am waiting for the fabric to arrive and still need Bpape to help me with fine tuning accoustics before I close up the walls. I was just PM'd him but his PM quota has been exceeded...I don't know what he will recommend but I am assuming it could be to move this, tweek that, cover this, etc.

thanks zxlr8!

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post #196 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 11:26 AM
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How did you attach the linocoustic and batting to the sheetrock? I always thought that strips had to go up first to hold it in. Did you just staple it on? The bottom edges of the batting look finished. Did you just cut the lengths you needed?
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post #197 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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srhookem - all of my linacoustic is attached with drywall screws randomly spaced. I didn't need too many because utlimately the fabric will hold the linacoustic in place. I used staples for the batting - again randomly spaced and not too many. I think Bud used roofing nails (ones with the round plastic cap) to hold up his linacoustic. Ultimately the fabric will hold it so either would be fine.

I kicked around putting up furing strips first but found it easier to cut everything in instead of having to cut it to fit. Linacoustic cuts very easy with a sharp razorblade. I used a combination of holding the wood in place and chalklines to cut all furing strips into the linacoustic. I used a black sharpie marker to mark out where to cut the batting and used a very nice pair of fabric sissors for cutting the batting. I recomend this approach because it is easier in my opinion. I think it would have been much harder to measure and cut the batting and linacoustic on the ground but that is just me.

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post #198 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 12:17 PM
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jikkjack, how are you planning to finish the sides of the wood columns (looks to be a few inches??) Will the fabric wrap up to them or will there be more wood there?

Craig

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post #199 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah - was wondering if anyone would ask that. I am going to install a black gom wrapped furring strip on each side that will velcro to the sides of the column. The purpose is to hide stapels down each furring strip on the walls where they meet the columns and to give it the floating effect. The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purpose. Hope that makes sense. I can post a picture if not.

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post #200 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Good news. I got through to BPape and hope to speak with him soon about the next steps.

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post #201 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkjack View Post

srhookem - all of my linacoustic is attached with drywall screws randomly spaced. I didn't need too many because utlimately the fabric will hold the linacoustic in place. I used staples for the batting - again randomly spaced and not too many. I think Bud used roofing nails (ones with the round plastic cap) to hold up his linacoustic. Ultimately the fabric will hold it so either would be fine.

I kicked around putting up furing strips first but found it easier to cut everything in instead of having to cut it to fit. Linacoustic cuts very easy with a sharp razorblade. I used a combination of holding the wood in place and chalklines to cut all furing strips into the linacoustic. I used a black sharpie marker to mark out where to cut the batting and used a very nice pair of fabric sissors for cutting the batting. I recomend this approach because it is easier in my opinion. I think it would have been much harder to measure and cut the batting and linacoustic on the ground but that is just me.

Silver sharpie, if you have one handy, works better... although my wife wasn't thrilled I ruined it. Also, the 3M spray adhesive works really well. I used both. Fasteners like roofing nails, screws will definitely work, but probably overkill. Once the fabric is up, between the 3M and the fabric, its going nowhere.

Jason, columns look great!

Bud
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post #202 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 03:30 PM
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The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purpose. Hope that makes sense. I can post a picture if not.

Yes, please do! Im interested in seeing this. I was thinking of just covering the staples next to my columns with a piece of quarter-round molding.
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post #203 of 855 Old 10-12-2006, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkjack View Post

The oversized column fronts are each perfectly 1" overhang on each side just for this purpose

Gotcha. That will be really cool - kind of a "suspended" look.

Craig

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post #204 of 855 Old 10-13-2006, 05:33 AM
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HT is looking great! It looks like you put batting and linacoustic behind the wood columns, is that a typical installation? It seems that there would be no absorptive advantage once covered with the reflective wood. Any thoughts on this?

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post #205 of 855 Old 10-13-2006, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Gonzo, Thanks. I actually removed the batting and linacoustic from the columns before installing the wood fronts.

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post #206 of 855 Old 10-13-2006, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Update - I just spoke to BPape (Bryan) and am going to hire him to help me do a calculated analysis of the room. I have wanted to do this all along and now it is time to do it before hanging up the fabric.

I anticipate that I will be building base traps and changing around some of my current treatments after getting back the report. I can't wait. I personally think that my room sounds great right now but I feel like I am missing a couple of critical pieces that will really take it from great to Perfect for me.

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post #207 of 855 Old 11-16-2006, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Been a while since I posted anything here so I am due for an update.

I worked with BPape (Bryan) and he was very helpful and very informative about my acoustical situation. I told him that I was mostly satisfied with my room acoustics but wanted to make sure that everything was the best it could be before putting up my fabric. He was very helpful and I am ordering everything I need to finish out the room treatments.

I highly recommend BPape to anyone that wants to do the acoustical treatments in the room the right way. Money very well spent in my opinion. Thanks again Bryan!!

I should have more pictures this weekend and next week when I will have some good days off of work to really focus on the theater. I plan to begin work on my marque/ticket booth and start my acoustical treatment changes. I will also begin installing crown molding in the majority of my basement. More pics soon.

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post #208 of 855 Old 11-26-2006, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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New pictures. I spent an entire day changing most of my acoustical treatments based on the feedback from Bpape's calculated analysis of my room. Here we go.

1. Remove all the linacoustic from the front wall. Used it around the room to bring the linacoustic on each side wall up to 5.5 feet.



2. Remove all polybatting from the top half of the room. Add linacoustic on side walls to get it up to 5.5 feet.



3. Add new 2" unfaced 703 rigid fiberglass to front wall. Leave 2 feet open on each side of the 2" 730 for new cotton bass traps. These should be here this week or early next week according to Bryan.



4. Remove all treatments from back wall and replace with 2" 703 with FSK facing. No pictures of that yet. I am still adding the FSK.

5. Add FSK to bottom 18" of the linacoustic down each sidewall. No pictures of that yet. I should be getting the FSK paper for that this week.

I hope to have pictures of #4 and #5 by this weekend coming up. After these changes are completed I can finally hang my GOM and begin working on staining and installing the trim moldings.


More pics soon.

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post #209 of 855 Old 11-26-2006, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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The changes so far have made a huge difference in the sound quality in the room. I anticipate it will get even better once the FSK paper is applied and the bass traps are put in. Now I just need to figure out a way to stop watching so much football and movies and get to work on finishing the room...

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post #210 of 855 Old 11-26-2006, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
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Finished the bathroom hallway this weekend, arches, and theater lobby. Also got some more of the media room drywalled and finished up running electrical to wine room. Here are some pics of the main things I wanted to finish this weekend.

Bathroom hallway:




Arches:




Theater Lobby:


This week - I will mud and tape all of this and hopefully get more drywall up...

Quick question. Am I correct that you wet the archway before you installed it?

Thanks!
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