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post #541 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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lynchmob723\\ - Here is a pic with measurements on the crown moulding/rope on the soffet.


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post #542 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Are you using a low temp glue gun? Sorry to say that I know this (from following my wife around Michaels), but there are high temp and low temp glue guns/sticks. You should be able to pick up one of the guns for about 5 bucks, less with their 40% off one item coupons.

Tom - I assume I must have a high temp gun. Too late now for me but a tip for anyone esle 'use low temp glue gun' when gluing fibers.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #543 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 07:57 AM
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Mark, the ceiling looks fantastic. I like Orion's belt How did you get your rope light to be as bright as it is? Mine seems to be a very muted/dull blue. I was think of putting up some reflective silver tape on my light tray to try and reflect some of the light.

Drew

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post #544 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Drew - nothing special.....its just flat Red paint and an off-shelf Lowes Rope light

Cheers,
Mark

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post #545 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Been asked this a few times in other threads so thought would post in my thread.

For power to PJ and Sub recepticles I wanted to run them via a Power Conditioner / UPS to prolong lifetime of the PJ bulb. Some of the options suggested were expensive so I've did the following:

APC J10--> 20A cord --> junction box with twist connections --> 20A Romex --> Recepticle --> PJ (or Sub)

In the Junction box I used double gang blank plate and drilled two holes. I found some cable glands (similar to this) at Home Depot that attached to the plate. I got a couple heavy duty power cords and cut the socket end of and passed thru the cable glands, secured and then used wire nuts to attach to the romex.

Here is a pic



Only time will tell if passes code but don't see why it would not.

[EDIT] Yes it passed code

Cheers,
Mark

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post #546 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a 1.5" gap at the top of the star ceiling. See below:



Originally didn't think it would be noticeable from below but it is. So looking for ideas.

Current thinking is to get some dense/rigid foam that is flexible enough when cut into a 1.5" x 0.5" strip that can bend around the ellipse. Then cover in black fabric and friction fit in the gap. I'll check out local Jo Anns and Hancock fabric see whats available.

Anyone got other ideas?

Cheers,
Mark

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post #547 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 05:02 PM
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How about just painting the exposed wood black for now? Could even just spruce it up with some molding and call it a decorative feature?

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post #548 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

How about just painting the exposed wood black for now? Could even just spruce it up with some molding and call it a decorative feature?

Michael, painting framing Black or Red was my initial thoughts but I don't really like the gap. Problem with a moulding is (a) find one flexible enough to go around the ellipse and (b) how to fix it the the star panel.

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post #549 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 05:46 PM
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Thanks for the pic. Do you think you could have gotten away with mounting the crown on the bottom of the soffit? Bottom of molding flush with bottom of soffit, that how I was going to do mine, but now im not sure....only thing that would change is how it lights the ceiling
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post #550 of 1328 Old 11-29-2006, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynchmob723\\ View Post

Thanks for the pic. Do you think you could have gotten away with mounting the crown on the bottom of the soffit? Bottom of molding flush with bottom of soffit, that how I was going to do mine, but now im not sure....only thing that would change is how it lights the ceiling

Yes - but my concern was (as you mentioned) it would be too far from ceiling to have provided adequate glow.

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post #551 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Michael, painting framing Black or Red was my initial thoughts but I don't really like the gap. Problem with a moulding is (a) find one flexible enough to go around the ellipse and (b) how to fix it the the star panel.

Cheers,
Mark

I was more thinking about putting molding around the frame portion (so straight lines and 90 degree bends).

However, if you want to cover the entire gap, and while it may be a pain, how about geting another piece of plywood, cutting it to the same elipse shape except with a hole cut in the center, using scraps to float that piece over the main piece and wrapping the sides in cloth?

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post #552 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

And here it is with the Rope lights....can anyone spot the ORION constellation ?


Mark,

Wow -- that looks really great. I like the red rope light surround. Can you take a any pics of the ceiling in full light? I want to see how the oval looks hanging with the room lights on.
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post #553 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Wow -- that looks really great. I like the red rope light surround. Can you take a any pics of the ceiling in full light? I want to see how the oval looks hanging with the room lights on.

Thanks Steve. How is this?



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post #554 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Thanks Steve. How is this?



Cheers,
Mark

Perfect! It is amazing how easily that red paint turns black when the lights are off!
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post #555 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Perfect! It is amazing how easily that red paint turns black when the lights are off!

Yes, surprised me also - even with rope lights and star ceiling on don't find it distract at all. With rope light and star ceiling on I find don't even need the wall sconces on to provide adequate lighting to move around the room safely.

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post #556 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Yes, surprised me also - even with rope lights and star ceiling on don't find it distract at all. With rope light and star ceiling on I find don't even need the wall sconces on to provide adequate lighting to move around the room safely.

Cheers,
Mark

In my room, the reflection of the video off the screen lights things up pretty well but I always supplement with a few can lights above the seating. That's good to know how the rope and star lighting can light the room as well. This might be better and definitely a higher "cool" factor
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post #557 of 1328 Old 11-30-2006, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, put all the equipment in the DIY rack. Started the IR repeater set up......what does everyone use to route the IR emmitter wires? Little sticky wire ties?

Anyone got links to something that they have succesfully used?

Thanks,
Mark

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post #558 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Been doing some searching on cable management.

Think I will use something like this to route emitter wires up/down side of rack.



However, still need to find something to route emmitter wires across front of equipment......think something like this but needs to be smaller (these are 1.12" x 1.12").



I'll keep searching but if anyone has other suggestions appreciate it.

Cheers,
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post #559 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 06:57 AM
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The emitter wires are so thin, that I just use that really nice transparent scotch tape =).

Loganed on 4/8/2008

List to be completed
Install blinds - DONE
Finish plumbing my bathroom - WIP
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post #560 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I was also thinking a small dab of hot glue.....should hold fim and be easy the peel off it needed.

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post #561 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 07:38 AM
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Clear silicone caulk works wonders. I kept having the emitters pop off my D* TiVo (stupid rounded surfaces) and the caulk keeps them in place without damaging the components. The wires I tuck up and over the top of the components instead of routing across the front wherever possible.

Tom
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post #562 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Tom - thanks clear caulk will be a good solution, avoids any blemishes 'hot' glue may cause.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #563 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 09:17 AM
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Mark,

At least you're on top of the little things, those things are just getting addressed at this point on my side. My IR stuff is still hanging from the ceiling in my equipment closet, I'll get around to it someday soon hopefully.

OH and everything looks great. Congrats on the paneling and the ceiling.

Bud
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post #564 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Mark,

At least you're on top of the little things, those things are just getting addressed at this point on my side. My IR stuff is still hanging from the ceiling in my equipment closet, I'll get around to it someday soon hopefully.

OH and everything looks great. Congrats on the paneling and the ceiling.

Bud

Thanks Bud - I've now ran out of cash (till Tax Rebate time), the Berklines and my Daughters Orthadontal treatment saw to that so its only the little thing I can do.

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post #565 of 1328 Old 12-01-2006, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Thanks Bud - I've now ran out of cash (till Tax Rebate time), the Berklines and my Daughters Orthadontal treatment saw to that so its only the little thing I can do.

Man, I can relate to that. I've been itching to get barstools and a plasma for the bar for some time now, just got to wait some more until after the holidays and tax season.

Bud
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post #566 of 1328 Old 12-02-2006, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

I have a 1.5" gap at the top of the star ceiling. See below:



Originally didn't think it would be noticeable from below but it is. So looking for ideas.

Current thinking is to get some dense/rigid foam that is flexible enough when cut into a 1.5" x 0.5" strip that can bend around the ellipse. Then cover in black fabric and friction fit in the gap. I'll check out local Jo Anns and Hancock fabric see whats available.

Anyone got other ideas?

Cheers,
Mark

I would do the same - suggest to wrap the foam in fabric and bend around the edge of the ellipse but I would it make a bit smaller so it will be inserted - let's say 1/2 - 1". Although it might get a bit tricky to get the fabric flat wrapped around the foam...

Mike

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post #567 of 1328 Old 12-02-2006, 07:26 PM
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How about just black paint ?

An amateur built the Ark. Titanic was built by professionals. Of course Noah took a little advice.
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post #568 of 1328 Old 12-04-2006, 07:45 AM
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I went over to see Brit's theater in person. I think he's starting to obsess about it. Unless he fixed those gaps before I got there, I sure didn't notice them.

I CAN tell you all this...the pictures do not do his room justice. The workmanship on his paneling is just beautiful. And to think he came to ME for advice before he started. Now I'm going to him! I thought the sound and picture were fabulous, and he complains he hasn't calibrated anything yet! I just hope mine comes close to his when I'm finished.

Great work Mark!

Tom

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post #569 of 1328 Old 12-04-2006, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Tom - Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, probably am getting a bit anal but you know what its like. When you know its there you focus on it. I picked up some thick quilt batting over weeked - going to cut some strips, cover in fabric and see how it looks.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #570 of 1328 Old 12-04-2006, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I cut a strip if fabric 4.5" wide, sprayed with adhesive and wrapped a double thickness 1.5" quilt batting. Its just friction fit into the gap. Did do the trick but think i will add a layer of card to stiffen up a bit.


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