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post #61 of 1328 Old 04-06-2006, 09:20 AM
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Mark,

I believe Sandman used brads to hold the panels in place on furring strips that were mounted on the ceiling.

Bryan did a calculated analysis based on the information I provided him on the construction techniques, material used, insulation, distances, measurements, etc. He recommended a small amount of linacoustic under the soffit in strategic areas, versus what I planned. It varies by room, obviously. You don't want it too dead, I suppose.

Comment on side note, I think the server time was ahead by 12 hours (AM versus PM or something weird), I noticed that as well.

Bud
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post #62 of 1328 Old 04-06-2006, 11:09 AM
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Yea, this morning I thought I was caught in the cyber space twilight zone.


The place in manasses is McCormicks insulation. They are a JM insulation products supply serving the building trade but will service the public on a cash and carry basis. (they will deliver for a fee) .

It's a small operation, one guy/two guys and a warehouse but part of a larger regional company. I've always called and asked if the stuff was in stock before I went.

The guy there knows it as the 1 inch duct liner. If you say Linacoustic RC he'll think you are talking latin.

Getting there is a challenge. Even with a Mapquest Map it took me 20 minutes to find it when I was 5 block away. It's in a industrial park, 3-4 rows of buildings, and they are 2-3 rows back. No major signage just one on the door.

They will take a credit card but the guy has to fax the data to the home office and a receipt is faxed back. They probably will take a check, not sure about cash. They do most of there business based on an account. So be kind to these guys it's not a retail operation. I would hate to see them close the door to all the DIYers.
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post #63 of 1328 Old 04-09-2006, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a fair bit of the framing done this weekend - plus roughed in the bath PVC pipes.







I need to remove and re-frame the doors - that will have to wait till next weekend. Hopefully get some of the electrics run during the week.

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post #64 of 1328 Old 04-10-2006, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick question for those that put up wall sconces......what electrical boxes do you need to use, the standard rectangular boxes or the round ceiling boxes? Or does it mater?

I'm hoping that the rectangular ones are OK as I've not seen any adjustable depth circular boxes in the Carlon range.

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post #65 of 1328 Old 04-10-2006, 09:19 PM
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I wasn't certain exactly where I was going to stick mine so I left the wires dangling in the wall. Once I had the final location I cut a hole and grabbed the wire.

I made a furring strip frame and mounted an old work box to the frame. Then I glued and screwed (one each corner) the assembly to the holes in the drywall. It's very stable. More than a box nailed to a stud and certainly more stable than the dial a depth boxes I used for outlets. They are at the correct surface level to match my wall treatments. I used just the single gang square box.

Before the inspector came I just took a magic marker and wrote "sconce here" on the concrete walls he looked but didn't say a word.
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post #66 of 1328 Old 04-11-2006, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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BIG - Thanks.

Did your sconces not require a back box for the wire connections - or was there room in the sconce for the connections?

May take similar approach. I pretty much know where my sconces will go but the less boxes in the wall the better. Worse happens I can always add a box if required later.

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post #67 of 1328 Old 04-11-2006, 10:11 AM
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I did use a back box. It's an old work single rectangular box.

I made a frame out of 1x1 1/2 furring strips (full size) then mounted the box to the frame. Then glued and screwed the frame and box into a hole in the wall. Pulled the wire into the box before of course.
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post #68 of 1328 Old 04-12-2006, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Has anyone run electrical wiring under a concrete floor? I want to include power and other connections (butkicker/gaming) under the seating area.

Trying to work out how deep below surface it should be and what protection (steel conduit) should be used.

Thanks,
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post #69 of 1328 Old 04-12-2006, 05:58 PM
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I ran a power feed to the area of the island in my concession area. (aka the bar)

I think generally they want it under the slab. Although you might get by with a deep enough trench. A call to the code office would confirm this.

I scored the concrete with a diamond blade in my circular saw. ( the dustiest thing I ever did in my life) Then went after it with a chisel and sledge hammer. My thought with the scoring is if I went deep enough the chisel part would be a piece of cake.....wrong.

After about 20 minutes of wacking away with my sledge, I went and rented a junior jack hammer. It looks like a tommy gun and busted out the concrete down to the gravel. (1 hour job to make a 6 foot trench). I did run into the some wire meshing that I cut and folded out of the way and later bent back into position holding the conduit in the hole.

Then the power cord went into conduit rated for encapsulating in concrete ( the blue smurf tube at HD). They will want to inspect the trench and the wiring as part of the electrical rough-in and then they will give you an ok to fill it in.

To avoid any surprises be sure you avoid any buried sewer lines and be careful around the perimeter where you may have a drain system. I brought the one end of the conduit and wire up in the middle of the base plate of the wall and connected to an outlet at that location. Put the wire into the smurf tube while it's straight rather than thinking you'll pull it in later. It's just a lot easier.
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post #70 of 1328 Old 04-12-2006, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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BIG - so you trenched completely thru the slub down to the gravel bed (4" +)?

Was hoping just to go down about 2". I have a small angle grinder and a heavy duty Kango drill that goes thru concrete like butter

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post #71 of 1328 Old 04-12-2006, 07:57 PM
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Yes, but before you do I'd make a call.
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post #72 of 1328 Old 04-16-2006, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a constructive weekend!

Got the HVAC completed, finished the main framing, got some of the electrical wiring done and most of the fire stopping done! Will spend weekday evenings finishing electrical wiring and fire stopping.......next weekend will be soffits and plumbing.

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post #73 of 1328 Old 04-17-2006, 06:10 AM
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Man, you're making good progress! Keep it up! Fire blocking is such a pain in the a$$ isn't it?
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post #74 of 1328 Old 04-17-2006, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah Fire-Blocking is a tedious task!

I went out and purchased a few early sheets of drywall for this then it dawned on me that I had a whole stack of scrap drywall still in the garage from the demolition. So kepping the new sheets and been using this reclaimed drywall.

So TIP for anyone out there that also is doing demolition keep the old drywall for Fire-Blocking!

Cheers,
Mark

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post #75 of 1328 Old 04-17-2006, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Yeah Fire-Blocking is a tedious task!

I went out and purchased a few early sheets of drywall for this then it dawned on me that I had a whole stack of scrap drywall still in the garage from the demolition. So kepping the new sheets and been using this reclaimed drywall.

So TIP for anyone out there that also is doing demolition keep the old drywall for Fire-Blocking!

Cheers,
Mark

I had my builder put drywall in my attic so I could finish it in the future. They are 12 foot sheets, so I had to go to the attic, cut them into smaller sections and lug it downstairs.... 3 flights of stairs kind of sucked!

For fireblocking, it sure was nice to be able to use drywall in areas where 1 1/2" thick wood just wouldn't fit!
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post #76 of 1328 Old 04-18-2006, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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My planned screen is 16:9 Format , 80 wide x 45 high with seating position at 11' (so over 1.5 x width). My understanding is that eyes should be circa 1/3 way up screen so that puts screen about 30 off the floor and top of screen at 75 (6' 3)

For projector my preference is DLP with a budget up to $2,500. My current contenders are (min/max mounting distance for 80 screen):

Infocus IN76 122/153
BenQ PE7700 108/148
Optoma HD72 125/151

Given that there is going to be some projector noise I would like if possible to include in the soffit (preference) or in a hush box.

My rear soffit will be 148 from the screen - so right on the boundary of the max throw distance for each projector! Will this cause an issue (i.e. does picture degrade at the boundaries?)

From what I understand the projector lens needs to be central to the top of the screen. My soffit will be 84 from the ground. So if incorporated into the soffit the lens would be 9 to 12 above top of screen. So that's a problem i.e. using keystone correction is not recommended - right?

So if I'm correct I will be better to mount projector under the soffit (and maybe raise screen a little) and then create a hush box under the soffit if I find noise a problem.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #77 of 1328 Old 04-19-2006, 07:57 AM
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Mark,

Thats basically the route I took, the AE900 is pretty flexible from a mounting position, but even so, I still had to mount it about at the height of the screen in order not to have any keystoning. You can either raise your screen up some if you have height constraints under your soffit or drop the projector some toe eliminate the keystone. I didn't want my projector any lower than it is, so I ended up raising the screen another two inches, I believe the bottom of mine is at 32 inches now, which still puts the front row in the bottom third and a little less than half way on the riser.

This is exactly why you need you need to buy and mount the projector during construction. You need some trial and error in order to get it right.

Bud
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post #78 of 1328 Old 04-19-2006, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Bud - Thanks.

Won't be able to but PJ until June (waiting for Bonus payout).

I had pretty much come to conclusion I'd be better off below soffit and raising screen slightly......my biggest concern is picture quality at the extremes of the throw distance.

Where are you on the 'throw' scale? Are you near the max for your screen size?

I could possibly go for next size up screen (87") but I only have a 12' width and don't want to overdo screen size so proportions of the proscenium don't look odd.

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post #79 of 1328 Old 04-19-2006, 08:58 AM
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I have a 104" in 16:9 and the projector is mounted at about 12 feet. The throw range for a 104" image is 10-21 feet for a 1.0 gain screen. How wide is your room? I have about 11.5 feet have about 17 inches left on the sides of the screen.

Bud
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post #80 of 1328 Old 04-19-2006, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like I will have 12' 1" drywall to drywall.

So given you are throwing a 104" image on a 11' 6" wall I should be fine with moving up to a 87" screen (will be bang on 1.5 x screen width to seating). This will give me 27" either side for speaker housing and shadow box.

This will increase the max throw for the IN76 to 169", PE7700 to 161" and HD72 to 164".......so not on the extreme of throw.

So settled will plan on 87" screen, projector mounted under soffit with lens level with top of screen at distance of 148".

Bud - Thanks for your help.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #81 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyone got any suggestions for ceiling speakers for rear channel use?

Posted This Thread in speaker forum but no responses yet.

Cheers,
Mark

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post #82 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 12:36 PM
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I used Ascends 340SEs for the LCR and used Sonance Symphony S622TRs (in ceiling) for the surrounds. The Sonance speakers were recommended to me from Ascend, since they do no not manufacture in wall/ceilings.

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post #83 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 12:48 PM
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I like the concept of an angled baffle to direct the sound toward the seating area.

Triad makes a few versions: http://www.triadspeakers.com/products/ics6mon.html

Since my rear speakers are in the middle of the room on the ceiling I took triads box design and made a DIY MDF version. Used the Audax HT surround parts (madisound.com) I used the Audax HT kit for a 7.1 setup. Used the pre-made boxes to save time for the l/r/c/s/s

Then got 3 Sub kits from Parts express. A 15 for LFE and two 10's to give some bottom to the L/R.
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post #84 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 12:54 PM
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I looked at the Triads as well. Just a little more money than I wanted to spend (more like I had ).

The S622TRs also have pivoting woofers and tweeters. I'm pretty happy with them.

Bud
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post #85 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Bud - Thanks. I was considering the Asends also but there side surronds were not too pleasing on the eye (mine will be visible).......you used the Sonance Symphony S622TRs for both side & rears......I'll take a look.

Big - I'll take a look at the Triads also

Thanks both.

Mark

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post #86 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 06:48 PM
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Like Bud said, the Triads are a bit pricy, but I've read great things about them. I have all Ascends but am hiding the 4 surrounds in columns.
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post #87 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Just checked the Triad InCeiling Silver/6 MiniMonitor - Ouch! see what you mean pricy - a pair would soak up my entire speaker budget.

The Symphony S622TR's do look in my price range and my be a better bet for my side surrounds also - Bud you seem to be a shrewd shopper and recommended vendors?

Thanks,
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post #88 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 07:50 PM
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Here is my DIY faux triad that cost about $200 pair to make.



Here it is after fabric and trim. It's the one just to the left of the projector in the picture.


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post #89 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 08:09 PM
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Hi BritInVa,

What software did you use to create the image below?



Thanks,

Neil
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post #90 of 1328 Old 04-20-2006, 08:29 PM
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