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post #91 of 451 Old 08-04-2006, 08:27 PM
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I'd be interested in the pnematic seals, thanks Sven. Theres a door thread w/in this forum...

As far as the key harvesting goes... We've had the same bowl out for 4 years. It hasn't taken off yet. I'm thinking that doors with thumbprint recognition would be better.

"Time's up. Had your chance. Muffed it." ~Lord Scrumptious



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post #92 of 451 Old 08-04-2006, 08:33 PM
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thegeekk: Sorry for the hijacking, however, I'm guessing your silence is either due to a late night run to Wendy's OR, you are formulating plans for an inflatable seal door... I advise both!

Wooosh!

Marshall

"Time's up. Had your chance. Muffed it." ~Lord Scrumptious



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post #93 of 451 Old 08-04-2006, 09:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall F View Post

thegeekk: Sorry for the hijacking, however, I'm guessing your silence is either due to a late night run to Wendy's OR, you are formulating plans for an inflatable seal door... I advise both!

Wooosh!

Marshall


Worse actually, I'm adding in some arch facades into the SketchUp model.


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post #94 of 451 Old 08-04-2006, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by thegeek View Post

As for the can lights issue, if you swap out the floodlights for compact fluorescent lights, then heat buildup shouldn't be an issue. The Commercial Electric brand lights they sell over at Home Depot are really good (at least their 60 watt bulbs are). They come on instantly. From the second juice hits 'em, they're probably at 90-95% of their max brightness.

More importantly for this discussion, they also don't give off anywhere near as much heat as an incandescent. They get warm, and that's about it.

Make all attempts to avoid flourescent and low voltage lightning due to their high likelihood of EMI with your signal cables... If one has the choice, high voltage is the way to go.

-Tim

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post #95 of 451 Old 08-04-2006, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Make all attempts to avoid flourescent and low voltage lightning due to their high likelihood of EMI with your signal cables... If one has the choice, high voltage is the way to go.

There is another issue too. The ballast on the CF lights make them longer than a regular flourescent bulb so they have a tendency to stick out of the cans anywhere from a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. The older versions were even worse, but they still need to get them smaller. I have a really great lightbulb shop near my house and they warned me about that. I'm really glad they did.

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post #96 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 01:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Make all attempts to avoid flourescent and low voltage lightning due to their high likelihood of EMI with your signal cables... If one has the choice, high voltage is the way to go.

I have CFLs everywhere and I'm not swapping back to incandescent lights.


What about rope lighting inside the theater?


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post #97 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 01:40 AM - Thread Starter
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arch facades



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post #98 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 08:50 AM
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It depends on whether it's high or low voltage rope lights. Some searches in this forum will turn up discussion on the topic... Sorry that I don't have the time myself to check.

The arches look very classy, IMO. Will the wall have a panel w/acoustic treatment behind?

-Tim

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post #99 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 09:18 AM
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Looking great! What are you using material wise for the curves? Someone suggested a prescored plywood or bendy plywood that's easy to work with...

"Time's up. Had your chance. Muffed it." ~Lord Scrumptious



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post #100 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 10:23 AM
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Or a kerfed 2 x whatever.

-Tim

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post #101 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

It depends on whether it's high or low voltage rope lights. Some searches in this forum will turn up discussion on the topic... Sorry that I don't have the time myself to check.

The arches look very classy, IMO. Will the wall have a panel w/acoustic treatment behind?


Actually, come to think of it the rope lighting that I got doesn't have a transformer on it, so it's high voltage.


I think the general idea is to us the columns to cover the seems between spans of fabric. I had been pondering the idea of simply using trim, but the arches seem like they could be spiffy. Honestly, I only came up with the idea while typing in that post back there. So far the wife acceptance factor is actually kinda low, which I don't understand. I think she's still holding out for those windows remaining windows which I simply cannot set happening.


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post #102 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Marshall F View Post

Looking great! What are you using material wise for the curves? Someone suggested a prescored plywood or bendy plywood that's easy to work with...


So far I'm using bits and bytes as the material for the curves. I was thinking a couple of layers of thin plywood and a small army of pieces of 2x3s backing it up.

I have a ton of 2x3s sitting in the garage that I bought months ago. Funny thing about 2x3s is that they apparently just warp if they sit there for a bit. 2x4s seem to hold up a lot better, so I'm going with 2x4s where it matters, and I'm to use up my stock of 2x3s for getting chopped down for menial tasks like being risers.

I'll be sure to take lots of pictures of the framing part.


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post #103 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 11:23 AM
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Hmm.. I guess the question I'd ask her is, "when will we look out that window, or even need it for light?"... It won't change the exterior appearance of the house.

Though I'm sure you posed the same question already... Women. Can't live with 'em... Pass the beer nuts.

-Tim

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post #104 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I just looked up what it means to kerf something. I've seen that, I've pondered that, I don't have table saw which seems pretty necessary for doing that. I don't think I can justify getting a table saw either.

I figuring that thin plywood, some Gorilla Glue, and clamps should do the trick.



BTW, clamps are great. They're like buying low grade slaves.


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post #105 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 11:42 AM
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BTW, clamps are great. They're like buying low grade slaves.

lol

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post #106 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 12:06 PM
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No table saw necessary.. that'd actually be rather annoying. The best tool is probably a radial arm saw, that you can slide back and forth and just inch the board along the guiderail (literally). The much more common and just as doable approach is using a standard circular saw, set at the appropriate depth. The biggest advantage of the kerfed approach is it's typically quite a bit stronger since you're cutting into 1.5" stock.

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post #107 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by thegeek View Post

I just looked up what it means to kerf something. I've seen that, I've pondered that, I don't have table saw which seems pretty necessary for doing that. I don't think I can justify getting a table saw either.

I'd been wanting an inexpensive saw for a while, and picked up the ShopMaster (by Delta, apparently now owned by Black & Decker) at Lowe's for $99 a few weeks ago. It's a 10-inch, 13-amp saw with a plastic body and included a steel table. I think it'll hold up enough years with the light use it will get.

That said, I've also seen guys carefully set the depth on their SkilSaw and kerf the back of planks using that. I figure they've been doing it for so long, it's second nature to them. (Looks like Milt beat me to that comment.)
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post #108 of 451 Old 08-05-2006, 05:22 PM
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Hmm, I thought it was available at Home Depot, but their online search isn't that good. What I was referring to is bendable plywood, or bendy MDF. Check Here, neat stuff.

http://www.neatconcepts.com/neatform.htm


"Time's up. Had your chance. Muffed it." ~Lord Scrumptious



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post #109 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 07:39 AM
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It's called wiggle board. I didn't see it at home depot, but google "wiggle board" and there are some locations.

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post #110 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Make all attempts to avoid flourescent and low voltage lightning due to their high likelihood of EMI with your signal cables... If one has the choice, high voltage is the way to go.

Is this specific for lighting in the HT room or throughout the house. The lighting I would use the flourescent bulbs in are in the kitchen which is below my HT. I don't think there will be much if any wiring for my HT near those lights.

Check out:
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post #111 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 04:37 PM
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I'm curious about this too. As I mentioned above, I thought CF bulbs wouldn't fit in my cans, but now I realize that they are adjustable and I probably could fit them. I don't have any low voltage wiring in my ceiling. It all runs underneath the room. What the is the range of interferance, and what is the difference between regular flourescents and CF bulbs?

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post #112 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 08:12 PM
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It's perfectly fine to use CF in other locations that don't have requirements for minimizing EMI. I've replaced several incandescents with CF (spiral type) in hallways, garage, and kitchen.

One very important note, however, is to ensure that they are not on the same circuit as whatever electronic devices you're plugging in. If you have an electrically well-designed home where lights are wired together and not with outlets, that will make things easier. Sometimes circuits being on the same phase at the panel (there are typically two in almost all houses) can cause an issue, but not likely. The biggest thing is to try it with and without, and see whether you can see even a hint of difference.

-Tim

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post #113 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

It's perfectly fine to use CF in other locations that don't have requirements for minimizing EMI. I've replaced several incandescents with CF (spiral type) in hallways, garage, and kitchen.

One very important note, however, is to ensure that they are not on the same circuit as whatever electronic devices you're plugging in. If you have an electrically well-designed home where lights are wired together and not with outlets, that will make things easier. Sometimes circuits being on the same phase at the panel (there are typically two in almost all houses) can cause an issue, but not likely. The biggest thing is to try it with and without, and see whether you can see even a hint of difference.

Cool. Thanks for the info. Although the wiring in my home certainly doesn't qualify as "well-designed" the lights are on different circuits as the outlets. And all of the circuits in my media room are dedicated anyway.

Not to hijack your thread Geek. I'm really enjoying it btw. But has anyone seen a good review of the different brands of CFLs? There are several out there and I'm wondering if any of them are better than the others. Thanks.

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post #114 of 451 Old 08-07-2006, 10:10 PM - Thread Starter
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So yeah, about this theater thing...

Fiddling with the model thing, I've decided to kinda go with the window thing. This was after even getting wife approval to plug the window and then GOM over it. Basically, I tried it in the model and I actually like it. Also there's a sconce pre-wire on either side of the window and it would probably look kinda spiffy. I'm still going for plugs here, but I'll probably slap movie posters on it to make it look like the inner arch thing is there for a reason. Basically, I'm trying to hide the window in plain sight. Oh yeah, the window is actually arched. I had just drywalled over the top portion to make it squared off for easier plugging.





And now to satisfy all those who've been wanting more pictures... I have pictures! They're dull pictures which is why I haven't bothered posting any, but what the heck. Enjoy!


Mmmm a stack of OSB. You can't find a stack of OSB just anywhere. Technically, this stack of OSB is "more" OSB, making it special. Since the current riser scheme got scaled back a great bit, I figured on just doing the two layers now for sound isolation, and just build on top of it. Anyway, without further blabbering, here's a picture for you to stare at in a lecherous manner....





And, if that didn't get the blood flowing, I have a picture of poorly cut and hung drywall with about 40,000 screws in it. The cutting job so far on the closet has been so bad that I've used about 7 tubes of caulk to make up the difference. See! and wonder....






Like I said, the pictures are dull. Not much to see here, move along, move along...


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post #115 of 451 Old 08-13-2006, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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We finished up the first layer of OSB by polishing off the part in the closet. We then started gluing and screwing the second additional layer of OSB which for purposes of getting seams to not line up, started on the closet side of the room. There's a couple of walls in the closet that are so off that they're actually slightly curved, which always adds to the joy of trying to cut boards to fit.

The rest of the second layer should go pretty quickly when I get time to do it. None of the additional work requires a second set of hands.


Here, have a gratuitous picture....



And yes, it looks like I missed a screw in that corner. The one in the corner is probably just countersunk.... or I really missed putting a screw in that corner. Oh well, that's going to have a 2x8 wall dropped on top of it, so it will do a well enough job of staying down regardless. From the top down we've got the yellow stuff which is factory edge, the green glue, a cut edge of OSB, the original tongue and groove underlayer, and then the drywall edge where I cut away the original half-wall.


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post #116 of 451 Old 08-13-2006, 11:55 PM
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Are you guys serious about pneumatic seals for the door for sound isolation?

Doesnt make a lick of sense to me, either that or I cant figure it out, everytime i stick the air hose in the seals butt it barks and jumps around and does no good whatsoever for sound isolation.

Keep the pictures comming, especially of the pneumatic seals if you get them to behave.
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post #117 of 451 Old 08-14-2006, 06:18 AM
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Are you guys serious about pneumatic seals for the door for sound isolation?

Doesnt make a lick of sense to me, either that or I cant figure it out, everytime i stick the air hose in the seals butt it barks and jumps around and does no good whatsoever for sound isolation.

Keep the pictures comming, especially of the pneumatic seals if you get them to behave.

ROFLMAO
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post #118 of 451 Old 08-14-2006, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by longtimelurker View Post

Are you guys serious about pneumatic seals for the door for sound isolation?

Doesnt make a lick of sense to me, either that or I cant figure it out, everytime i stick the air hose in the seals butt it barks and jumps around and does no good whatsoever for sound isolation.

Keep the pictures comming, especially of the pneumatic seals if you get them to behave.

Too funny!

BTW:

http://www.pneuma-seal.com/

Scott
 

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post #119 of 451 Old 08-14-2006, 07:07 AM
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Looking good, TG. You may have mentioned it - what modeling program are you using?


perhaps this is off topic:

Remember the bumper stickers that would say "I [Heart symbol] my cat"?
As a joke, I made one and put it on a friends car that said "I [Club symbol] my seal". He realized what I had done when he took his car to the car wash. Apparently the girl running it didn't think it was very funny and made him take it off before putting his car through.





* I don't support clubbing seals, unless you are a killer whale.

"Time's up. Had your chance. Muffed it." ~Lord Scrumptious



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post #120 of 451 Old 08-15-2006, 07:28 AM
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Funny!

I'll take a guess the software is sketchup.. free download! works great! Check out my gallery for what you can do with it.

In the immortal words of Socrates who said.. "I drank what?"


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