Cutting Rigid Fiberglass for Bass Trap: link to short video - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 72 Old 03-23-2007, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ccarzoo View Post

????

Dude, chill! 4 posts in 36 hours asking the same question in the same thread? Take a pill! Eventually someone who knows the answer will answer. Until then, breathe in, breathe out, breathe in, breathe out...

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post #62 of 72 Old 03-24-2007, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ccarzoo View Post

I have a quick question. I may need the traps aforementioned. Can I make the traps, and add a poster over them, or does that defeat the purpose?

Also, could I lay a clearish/see through fabric over the poster, over the treatment to make it more attractive to the lady?

If the trap is in the back of the room you'll probably be okay placing a thin, paper poster over the front of it. In the back of the room you usually want to have a reflective surface for the high frequencies. The low frequency waves go right through. For the rear of the room I don't think fabric will matter too much.

On the other hand, in the front of the room you often want a broad-band absorber, so the fabric should be acoustically transparent (or close to it) and the poster would not be good. You'll get a better response in the acoustic treatments mast thread.

Thanks,
PS If you get a chance would you clean up some of the bumps you put in? Thanks.
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post #63 of 72 Old 03-24-2007, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post

If the trap is in the back of the room you'll probably be okay placing a thin, paper poster over the front of it. In the back of the room you usually want to have a reflective surface for the high frequencies. The low frequency waves go right through. For the rear of the room I don't think fabric will matter too much.

On the other hand, in the front of the room you often want a broad-band absorber, so the fabric should be acoustically transparent (or close to it) and the poster would not be good. You'll get a better response in the acoustic treatments mast thread.

Thanks,
PS If you get a chance would you clean up some of the bumps you put in? Thanks.


sure, how do I clean them up, I am not sure what that means.

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post #64 of 72 Old 03-26-2007, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ccarzoo View Post

sure, how do I clean them up, I am not sure what that means.

You can "edit" (not quick edit) your posts and delete them. (I'll do the same to this post when you are done.) It will help streamline the thread.

Thanks,
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post #65 of 72 Old 01-26-2008, 08:05 AM
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Hello folks. At the risk of adding yet another project to my yet to be undertaken home theatre build, could somebody enlighten me as to the purpose of the bass trap? I get that a bass trap is used to improve your rooms frequency response, but, what are bass traps made specifically to do? Do they mainly reduce peaks or do they affect nulls, or do they work their magic on a little of both? Do you simply measure your rooms frequency response and then design your bass trap from their?
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post #66 of 72 Old 01-26-2008, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpc View Post

Hello folks. At the risk of adding yet another project to my yet to be undertaken home theatre build, could somebody enlighten me as to the purpose of the bass trap? I get that a bass trap is used to improve your rooms frequency response, but, what are bass traps made specifically to do? Do they mainly reduce peaks or do they affect nulls, or do they work their magic on a little of both? Do you simply measure your rooms frequency response and then design your bass trap from their?


I'm not sure what they actually do, but I do know that they work. When I first started doing a theater in my garage, the sound was absolutley horrible. I had a concrete floor, and reflective surfaces everywhere. I added carpet, and that helped dramatically to make it not so much of an echo chamber. Problem was, the bass was still boomy and out of control. I then went to Home Depot and got bales of R-13 fiberglass and stacked them in the corners, from the ceiling to the floor. Even though this was very much a ghetto-style solution, it actually worked. The bass was no longer boomy and out of control, but much more tight and crisp. Hard to explain, but it's something you can hear right away after you add the treatments.

Now, I'm totally redoing the theater, and I got rid of all those bales of fiberglass, cause I want to make it look nice, and not so ghetto-style. In the front corners, I'm going with the superchunk method, with the oc703. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the oc703 anywhere locally, and I paid thru the nose to get it, but hopefully it will actually even improve upon the bales of fiberglass I had before.
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post #67 of 72 Old 10-13-2008, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakophyte View Post

Going back to the first trap...
Here are some shots of the beefier panel I made. In this case I put another piece of 2'x4'x2" FRK in front of the wedges and made the top and bottom panels a little larger. It came out very nice, imho. So nice, my wife said it looked good without me asking her opinion!



...and a view on the top...


EDIT
Here's a link

and one of three sketches in my gallery:

Just what I need to tame the 10-SVS infrabass set up monster!...

-THTS
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post #68 of 72 Old 03-13-2009, 12:54 PM
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I have this notion it would be extremely easy to create some 8"x8"x4' rigid fiberglass "boxes" for all the ceiling/wall intersections in my 11'x11'x8' room. Add some simple absorption panels (carpeting "squares" or a few pro acoustical panels) strategically placed on the walls and ceiling and I might be able to tame my Boomville room and still have it look fairly decent.

I'd cut 2'x4'x2" rigid fiberglass panels into 3 sections lengthwise (8"x4'x2"), then glue 4 of them together to create a 8"x8"x4' "boxes." I think I can cover them so they'll remain rigid and velcro them to all the intersections, no real frame necessary. (I'd use thin poster board glued to the sides that will go against the ceiling and walls, then wrap only the visible area in speaker fabric.)

I'd create some larger traps of the same material for the front soundstage of my room. I don't think this will look as good as the triangular corner traps, but those are not practical for my space.

What do you think?

Joe Clark

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post #69 of 72 Old 04-01-2009, 07:54 PM
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Anyone have any more pictures of custom made superchunk? I am getting some help from my wood worker and need some examples for him.

Thanks
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post #70 of 72 Old 04-01-2009, 08:05 PM
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I'm in the middle of trying to figure out what type of acoustic treatment is worth the bother in my room. I'll have my speakers fairly close to the corners, but I can't do the big "super chunk" type corner traps. I'll be able to put an acoustic absorption trap directly above the screen (about 2 feet wide, 11 feet long, 5" thick running along the top of the screen). And since the entire screen wall is open at this point - the dry wall taken off - there is the option of not finishing that cavity with drywall, but instead filling it with acoustic absorption, covering the entire screen wall behind the speakers. I suppose that follows the type of "dead end" (at the speakers) "live end" concept.

Anyone advise if that is a good plan? I'll have a very big sofa in my 15 x 13' room, thick carpet, curtains etc. One of my worries is going a bit too far with absorption and ending up with a "dead" sounding room. Especially as I'll be listening to 2 channel music as well as movie sound.
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post #71 of 72 Old 04-02-2009, 08:53 AM
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post #72 of 72 Old 12-13-2012, 07:26 AM
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Tweakophyte... The video link is marked private now. Do you still have it up? Wanted to see it again.

Thanks,
Scott
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