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post #451 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judsonp View Post

I like that sconce too Gonzo.

While we are requesting pictures can you get a shot of your room with the ladder in there for old times sake?

Judson

Bahahahah. Absolutely! I think I may have hurt her feelings by leaving her out of so many pictures lately.

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post #452 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calv1n View Post

Gonzo,

I like the sconce as well. Looks like a giant candle in that pic anyways. Do you have a couple shots of it on with out the house lights so I we can see what it looks like when it is in "action" so to speak?

A shot of the room with just the 4 or so sconces on would be cool - give us an idea of what the room would be like as far as overall lighting at "movie time". (when you get there of course sounds like you still have 3 to wire up )

Cheers
Calvin

Yep, it is suppose to look like a candle. It provides a cool glow to the columns when the other lights are dimmed. When I get the other 4 (ordered yesterday) installed I will take some more action shots. I'll do another video of the GE/lights at work also (if you didn't see it there is a video clip about a page or two back).

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post #453 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 08:12 AM
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Gonzo,

Congrats on such a great HT. Hope you're enjoying some movies too :-)

I'm at the furring stage in my build and have a question. What did you use for 1" furring strips on the walls?

Also, I'm thinking of using the Mulburry GOM too, did you need to paint your frames to hide an bleed through?

Do you have any pictures of the 1" frames you made to hold the GOM?
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post #454 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 08:23 AM
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What an awesome job. You are a major inspiration except that I am too lazy. I am taking a lot of pointers from you.
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post #455 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post


I'm at the furring stage in my build and have a question. What did you use for 1" furring strips on the walls?

I have frames of 3 different sizes (1", 2", 3"). For the 1" I used 1x2 pine (which is actually 3/4" wide). I put 1/2 plywood triangular braces in each corner. This made it at total of 1' from the wall.

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Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Also, I'm thinking of using the Mulburry GOM too, did you need to paint your frames to hide an bleed through?

No problem at all. Did not need to paint the frame. I thought I may see bleed through with a flash picture, but not even an issue with this.

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Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Do you have any pictures of the 1" frames you made to hold the GOM?

Yep, a couple of pages back there are some pictures of the process. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...719146&page=14
Look at post 385. This is an example of a 3" frame. Same principle was used for the 2" and 1" ones.

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post #456 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

I have frames of 3 different sizes (1", 2", 3"). For the 1" I used 1x2 pine (which is actually 3/4" wide). I put 1/2 plywood triangular braces in each corner. This made it at total of 1' from the wall.

Thanks, but I really wanted to know about the furring strips you used under the non-frame areas (the stained wood areas). Somewhere back there you state the furring strip is 1". I'm wonder if that's rounded up or what.

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No problem at all. Did not need to paint the frame. I thought I may see bleed through with a flash picture, but not even an issue with this.

Great, I wasn't looking forward to painting the frames.

Quote:
Yep, a couple of pages back there are some pictures of the process. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...719146&page=14
Look at post 385. This is an example of a 3" frame. Same principle was used for the 2" and 1" ones.

I had seen the 3" frame process back a few pages, I should have figured out how the 1" went.
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post #457 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejhuzy View Post

Thanks, but I really wanted to know about the furring strips you used under the non-frame areas (the stained wood areas). Somewhere back there you state the furring strip is 1". I'm wonder if that's rounded up or what.

Ohhh, for that I ripped 2x6 down to exactly 1" width and attached it to the wall. Then put 1/2" plywood on top of that. Then 1x3 framing around the plywood. This left the stained area (on the back wall) 2.25" from the wall. I used the 2" frames (covered with the GOM) in these sections. If I did not do it this way the 2" frame (acoustic panel) would of stuck out beyond the stained wood portion, which would of looked bad. Wow, I hope that makes sense.

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post #458 of 741 Old 01-24-2008, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Ohhh, for that I ripped 2x6 down to exactly 1" width and attached it to the wall. Then put 1/2" plywood on top of that. Then 1x3 framing around the plywood. This left the stained area (on the back wall) 2.25" from the wall. I used the 2" frames (covered with the GOM) in these sections. If I did not do it this way the 2" frame (acoustic panel) would of stuck out beyond the stained wood portion, which would of looked bad. Wow, I hope that makes sense.

Thanks Gonzo, I follow you. I'm trying to figure out my scheme, whether to use panels or just staple to furring strips. I have treatments that are 1" and 2".

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post #459 of 741 Old 01-26-2008, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Today I went to Lowe's with the sole intention of purchasing what I needed to hook up my bar sink. Previous plumbing endeavors have resulted in a minimum of 3 unplanned trips to Lowe's to get other parts. Likewise, there has always been leaks to troubleshoot once I thought I was done. So while I was scouring the plumbing aisle, a little voice kept saying, "you do know you are going to have to come back here in about an hour...it is unavoidable."

And this is where the miracle occurred!!! I actually installed the necessary plumbing, including a studor vent, without a single leak! I also did not have to go back to Lowe's. Goooooaaaaalllllll!!!! [/insert soccer guy's voice]

An action shot (note the water flowing in the proper direction...with gravity, I did that).:


The workings of the beast:


I you are a plumber guy and you see something incorrect in this set up, please, keep it to yourself.

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post #460 of 741 Old 01-26-2008, 10:50 AM
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Very nicely done!!

And how lame are we to celebrate completing a small project with only one supply run!? Lord knows I always feel great when I'm not forced to make yet another trip...

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post #461 of 741 Old 01-26-2008, 11:36 AM
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Gonzo,

You get 5 points for creative use of a PVC drain cover. Unfortunately, you loose 10 for putting it on the web rather than hiding it like most of us would have.

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post #462 of 741 Old 01-26-2008, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Lol. Yeah, I put that there about a year ago and forgot to put it back over the PVC pipe prior to my most excellent plumbing job. Trust me, it is going to stay right where it is.

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post #463 of 741 Old 01-27-2008, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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As I have mentioned previously, I have been paying as I go with this project. This has been spread out over about 2.5 years (so far). Since things are slowing down a little and I had to wait for some paint to dry, I took some time to add up my receipts. I will list the expenses by the stores.

Lowe's: 17242.71
Home Depot: 409.44
Kmart: 36.06
Walmart: 53.29
Touch of Brash: 165.00
Monoprice: 109.25
AC Moore: 21.34
Hancock Fabrics: 34.56
Antique Harware: 19.48
Smart home: 110.98
BlueJeans Cables: 351.00
HSU Research: 552.00
Axiom Audio: 1368.95
Electricsuppliesonline: 564.99
ProjectorPeople.com: 3074.00
Sensiblesoundsolutions: 578.00
Best Buy: 1439.99

Can't Find the Receipts/Estimates:
Engineer/contractors: 1000.00
Lowe's (Bar Cabinets): 3000.00
Granite Counter tops: 2400.00
Acoustic Design: $200.00
Total: $32731.04

I know I have missed some receipts along the way, but this gives you the general idea.

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post #464 of 741 Old 01-27-2008, 12:23 PM
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Gonzo,

32K for what you have is a song one look at your room/s and it looks like 5x that was spent. Very nicely done (good job on the water and gravity as well in post #459 - I was wondering who to thank for gravity so thanks...I use it alot)

Looking good (now where is that pic with the old ladder ?)

Cheers
Calvin
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post #465 of 741 Old 02-06-2008, 06:06 AM
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... i do too anticipating for the ladder to make a come back.

Very nice HT Gonzo, i'm sure your daughter enjoy it alot, my neices and nephews are still estatic everytime they watch movie at my house.
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post #466 of 741 Old 02-11-2008, 06:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

After the super bowl party, I have really stop working in the basement. Sometimes it helps to take a few weeks off. Still waiting on the sconces to arrive. Of course on the website is said ships within 10 working days. Then I get an email saying it shipped. A week later I called to try and track the shipment, then they tell me it has not shipped and may not ship for another 2-4 weeks. I guess patience is a virtue.

I did get a couple of bar stools for the bar. I will try to take a picture or two this week. I will try to get the ladder in a couple of pics for old time's sake.

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post #467 of 741 Old 02-11-2008, 12:33 PM
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Not including sound and video hardware components, it looks like you spent 25K on construction materials. For those of us wrestling with the make/buy decision, how much do you figure it would cost over and above the 25K to have a contractor come in and do all the construction? i.e. labor charge? and how long do you think it would take a team of a contractor and crew to do the job? Thanks. Great job, BTW!
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post #468 of 741 Old 02-11-2008, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^Thanks easy.

I do not know exactly, but I would guess the labor cost would be at least half of the costs...so $50K is a guess. Because of some of the detail work (woodwork, building fabric frames, etc), maybe even more. Maybe someone else knows the exact ratio for labor to material costs.

One thing I do know is that a contractor would of finished it a hell of a lot sooner than I was able to!!!

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post #469 of 741 Old 02-11-2008, 02:42 PM
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What's a Studor vent? I guess it is that thing I see it on that waste pipe with the blue band? Never saw one before.
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post #470 of 741 Old 02-11-2008, 04:55 PM
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I'd love to see an udpated picture of your media closet...if you have time.
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post #471 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 06:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

What's a Studor vent? I guess it is that thing I see it on that waste pipe with the blue band? Never saw one before.

Yep, it is that thing sticking up on the pipe.

Here is more info on it:
http://www.plumbingstore.com/autovent.html

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post #472 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 06:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chpwaman View Post

I'd love to see an udpated picture of your media closet...if you have time.


Not much to see yet. Still has everything sitting haphazardly on a small table. When I make more money, I will buy a rack system and make it pretty.

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post #473 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 08:15 AM
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Quote:


Not much to see yet. Still has everything sitting haphazardly on a small table. When I make more money, I will buy a rack system and make it pretty.

I had a question about your ceiling and the furring strips. Do you think they, along with the insulation, double drywall and GG did a good job with noise isolation? I'm not sure if I want to go this route or spend the bucks on the noise clips and hat channel.

I'm also wondering if I need to worry much about double drywall and GG for my walls (I don't think you did this)...3 of the 4 walls in my HT are outside walls and have poured concrete behind the stud wall. I think I will double up and GG the one wall where the stairs to the upper level are on the other side (don't need the noise having that easy of a time making it's way upstairs). Also, thought about using the sound clips and hat channel on this wall too. Any thoughts on this after your project? Thanks.
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post #474 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 09:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Apparently furring strips do help per acoustical research. 20" OC is apparently better than 16" OC. My room is not the tightest of rooms (no can light boxes, my door threshold is not perfect, etc), but there seems to be some isolation taking place, as I do not get told to turn it down very often.

You do need to treat all the walls in the room, or you will be wasting you time and money just doing the ceiling. Noise will "flank" the ceiling isolation and still get to where you don't want it to go.

Hat channels or clips will increase the isolation of your set up, so if you are hard core about sound isolation I would look into using them also.

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post #475 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

What's a Studor vent? I guess it is that thing I see it on that waste pipe with the blue band? Never saw one before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Yep, it is that thing sticking up on the pipe.

Here is more info on it:
http://www.plumbingstore.com/autovent.html

So, I still haven't really understood the purpose of it. I understand that it vents the air into the pipe while not letting sewage gases out, but WHY do you need to vent the air into the pipe? This type of thing is not at all common in the upper Midwest. In fact I don't ever recall seeing one until you pointed it out in your build.

Thanks for the updates!

"When I left you, I was but the learner, now I am the master."
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post #476 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoeHammer865 View Post

So, I still haven't really understood the purpose of it. I understand that it vents the air into the pipe while not letting sewage gases out, but WHY do you need to vent the air into the pipe? This type of thing is not at all common in the upper Midwest. In fact I don't ever recall seeing one until you pointed it out in your build.

Thanks for the updates!

What it does is equalize the pressure so that when you flush water through the system is doesn't suck/siphon water out of the p-traps elsewhere in the system. Once the water is removed from the p-trap then you will get sewer gassing coming through your sinks, etc.

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post #477 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Someone who is smarter than me should chime in, but it is my understanding that these are required in situations where the sink/toilet/etc are over a certain distance away from a vertical vent pipe. For some reason over 4 feet pops into my mind. Anyway, the bar sink is about 20 feet from the nearest vertical pipe, so after researching this (about a year ago), I decided I would put one in.

If you don't use one in this situation I think the column of water traveling down the 20 foot pipe would create a negative pressure such that the water in the p trap can be pulled out and therefore let sewer gases gurgle out into the room. The one-way studor vent allows air to enter the pipe, relieving that negative pressure.

Plus they look cool and Chinadog put one in his sink!

Edit: yeah, what Michael said

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post #478 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 04:11 PM
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"The purpose of vents is to allow air to enter the plumbing drainage waste and vent system and equalize pressure when water drains out of the system maintaining the integrity of the water trap that prevents sewer gases from entering the building through fixture drains. When a plumbing fixture is operated, negative pressure causes the AAV to open, allowing air to enter and equalize the pressure in the system. When the flow stops, gravity closes the valve preventing sewer gas from escaping through the valve into the building."

More info here:

http://www.studor.com/index2.htm

Bud
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post #479 of 741 Old 02-12-2008, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Someone who is smarter than me should chime in, but it is my understanding that these are required in situations where the sink/toilet/etc are over a certain distance away from a vertical vent pipe. For some reason over 4 feet pops into my mind. Anyway, the bar sink is about 20 feet from the nearest vertical pipe, so after researching this (about a year ago), I decided I would put one in.

If you don't use one in this situation I think the column of water traveling down the 20 foot pipe would create a negative pressure such that the water in the p trap can be pulled out and therefore let sewer gases gurgle out into the room. The one-way studor vent allows air to enter the pipe, relieving that negative pressure.

Yes, you are right. It is mainly for safety reasons. If there is no water in your sink trap, then sewer gasses (combustible methane) can build up in your house. If you go on a extended vacation, then you risk a major explosion. Which reminds me that I have to go to our vacation house rather soon, just in case the water in the traps have all evaporated.
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post #480 of 741 Old 02-13-2008, 04:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

Yes, you are right. It is mainly for safety reasons. If there is no water in your sink trap, then sewer gasses (combustible methane) can build up in your house. If you go on a extended vacation, then you risk a major explosion.

That sounds like a Mythbusters experiment. I'm having a hard time imagining that enough methane could build up to ever cause any sort of explosion risk. Now granted, the house would smell like sh*t, but I don't think it would go boom.

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