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post #31 of 741 Old 09-07-2006, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I am pretty neurotic about doing things right, so hopefully there will be no problem there. I have read a basement remodelling book and wiring book cover to cover. I am certainly doing things more to code than the previous remodel! For, example the basement bathroom did not have a exhaust fan (or window) or a dedicated 20 amp GFCI outlet. Both of which I have since installed. Now those non-PT baseplates are just going to have to stay

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post #32 of 741 Old 09-07-2006, 10:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Few more picks. This is the whole I cut into the pool room to run a hall to the AV closet. You can look at the HT design on one of my earlier post to get perspective. (Is it me or is that ladder in every single one of my pictures?)


This is looking down that new doorway towards the AV closet...and of my ladder. Upstairs HVAC is right on the left. Will need a louvered door so it can breath.


This is looking from the AV closet towards the pool room. Ladder must be around the corner.


This is the initial AV hub from the previous owner. Obviously homerun technique.


This is my new AV hub. Still needs some cleaning up, but you get the idea.

Gonzo


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post #33 of 741 Old 09-07-2006, 10:28 AM
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So, your regular ladder isn't offended you got the aluminum extension ladder in that picture of the new AV hub?
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post #34 of 741 Old 09-07-2006, 10:51 AM
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Is there a poured wall behind the brick retaining wall? Is it concrete block? Or is it just brick? There should be a french drain at the base of the retaining wall to divert the water from the backside and relieve the hydrostatic pressure. The water does look to be going under the asphalt and escaping through the cracks (which may be one of the reasons the cracks appeared in the first place). As you know, water is one of the greatest issues any home faces. It's even worse if it's getting behind your brick veneer. It could be getting through your house wrap and into your framing. Think of mold and water damage... If it were me, I wouldn't deal with anything else until this issue is resolved. Of course I'm just expressing an opinion that I formed from looking at one picture over the internet. I just know my personal experience dealing with buildings, retaining walls and water intrusion and I can honestly say it ain't no fun and can be really expensive if not taken care of.




Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Remember my previous post about the minor flooding? Well, I thought is was related to the gutters overflowing and not directing the water away from the house. The other morning I went down to the basement and found 3 dying worms in my hallway. This should of been a hint that something was up! Later that day during a downpour, once again minor flooding!!! This had not happened once in the year previous, now twice with in 3 weeks!?!? Granted, we have had a ton of rain here over the past week, but still! About 2 months ago I applied an asphalt sealer to some of the cracks in the driveway. I thought this would help prevent water seeping in next to the house. I think it may of done the opposite; trapped water in and sent it flowing into the house.

This is the outside area. I think water is collecting in the soil on the back side of this wall and hydrostatic pressure is driving it below/through the driveway and brick veneer of the house. This used to be fine when it could flow out through the cracks (that I recently sealed).


This is the cracks I am talking about. During the flooding, I took my drill outside and drilled a couple of holes in the sealant that I had applied. Sure enough water starting bubbling out


I have seen walls that have a hole/pipe in them to let water get from one side to the other (this wall above does not). I was thinking about taking my hammer drill out and punching a couple hole in it to see what happens next time it rains. Maybe more water will flow through them and not into my house! Anyone have any other suggestion?



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post #35 of 741 Old 09-07-2006, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Is there a poured wall behind the brick retaining wall? Is it concrete block? Or is it just brick? There should be a french drain at the base of the retaining wall to divert the water from the backside and relieve the hydrostatic pressure. The water does look to be going under the asphalt and escaping through the cracks (which may be one of the reasons the cracks appeared in the first place). As you know, water is one of the greatest issues any home faces. It's even worse if it's getting behind your brick veneer. It could be getting through your house wrap and into your framing. Think of mold and water damage... If it were me, I wouldn't deal with anything else until this issue is resolved. Of course I'm just expressing an opinion that I formed from looking at one picture over the internet. I just know my personal experience dealing with buildings, retaining walls and water intrusion and I can honestly say it ain't no fun and can be really expensive if not taken care of.


Yeah, I agree. It needs to be addressed. Fortunately all wood framing for the house starts about 2 feet above the wall in that picture (it is all concrete block below this point). So the structural integrity of the house should not be compromised. Now my basement construction can most definitely be compromised.

I am not sure if the wall is all brick or a brick veneer around a concrete block core. I probably need someone to dig out behind it and see what we find. Sounds like $500-1000 minimum.

Gonzo


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post #36 of 741 Old 09-11-2006, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, some updated pool room pictures. The pre-finished basement had your typical basement paneling. No offense to those who like the basement-wood-paneling thing, I don't.

You can see the panelling in the back of this picture. For reference this is on the left side of the fireplace.


Took down the paneling, painted the cement block with Drylok. I added drywall to 2x2 furring strips against the wall. Used textured paint to duplicate the texture on the rooms other walls. It actually turned out pretty nice. It should look cool when painted and glazed to create a little "old world" look. Not sure of the color scheme yet, any suggestions?



Another project will be covering the brick fireplace with cultured stone. Should be able to get to that in about 4.5 years.

Gonzo


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post #37 of 741 Old 09-11-2006, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Another project will be covering the brick fireplace with cultured stone. Should be able to get to that in about 4.5 years.

I certainly understand that feeling. It's annual lawn renewal time and the theatre work is taking a few week's hiatus at my house.
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post #38 of 741 Old 09-19-2006, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I can not tell a lie. I made a mistake and I think it is time I fessed up. Several month ago I built a subfloor for my theater. I used the technique outlined on the DIY Network site. I used U-boats to raise the base frame off of the concrete and layed OSB on top of the frame. Because I essentially was building a large drum, I put pink stuff in between the framing.



After completing the subfloor, I built a riser.



I looked great. The floor felt great under foot. Then doubt set in. Is insulation suppose to be on a basement floor? They did it on DIY network, so it must be OK, right? What if moisture get into the insulation? As you can imagine this thought process began to fester. I eventually posted a thread about this type of subfloor and the overwhelming consensus was it was a bad idea. Aaaahhhhhh!!!!

Plus there was the little known fact (at least to me) that you are suppose to build the riser after the room is drywalled. Oh well, I have finally given in and last weekend I began the deconstruction process.


Two positives will come from this. 1) a more moisture-resistant subfloor and 2) I can rebuild the riser after the room is drywalled. Heck, just call it a $200.00 learning experience

The plan now is to rip it all out. I am going to put down Dricore or build a floor on top of Delta-FL. Maybe the original floor would of worked, but the thought of soggy, moldy, pink stuff on the floor under my HT was just not going to work.

I may not get it right the first time, but I can promise you it will be right when it is done.

Pearl #8: Build riser after drywalling.
Pearl #9: Put in a good moisture-preventing product onto the basement floor.

Gonzo


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post #39 of 741 Old 09-27-2006, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Some updated shots...

Subfloor coming up:


Ahhhh, the clean palate once again.


The subfloor carnage. This will likely take 2 trips to the dump in the Honda Pilot.


Remnants of the riser (to be re-used)


I have a lot of extra U-boats now. If anyone wants them for 1/2 price send me a PM.

Now I need to find where I can get a true subfloor material and start rebuilding.

Gonzo


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post #40 of 741 Old 09-28-2006, 07:52 AM
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The subfloor carnage. This will likely take 2 trips to the dump in the Honda Pilot.

OUCH.
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post #41 of 741 Old 09-28-2006, 11:37 AM
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With regards to the brick, there are supposed to be weep holes to allow water that gets trapped between the brick and the framing to escape. I don't see any in your photos. They might be there, just below the level of the driveway, which doesn't let them work properly.

In a perfect world, the retaining wall would be backfilled with crushed gravel over drain tile that directs water to a drywell. Alternatively, drill some holes through it, which will help, but not solve the problem.

The real problem is that your stormwater is not being properly directed. First solution is to run a pipe from your leader to a drywell to accept runoff from the roof. They make plastic drywells you can install yourself (I am talking about an ADS stormchamber type drywell, with capacity >100 gallons, not a flo-well type that holds about 25 gallons). Although it appears you have other problems, with the stormwater properly directed, they may not be a factor anymore.

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post #42 of 741 Old 09-28-2006, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

With regards to the brick, there are supposed to be weep holes to allow water that gets trapped between the brick and the framing to escape. I don't see any in your photos. They might be there, just below the level of the driveway, which doesn't let them work properly.

In a perfect world, the retaining wall would be backfilled with crushed gravel over drain tile that directs water to a drywell. Alternatively, drill some holes through it, which will help, but not solve the problem.

The real problem is that your stormwater is not being properly directed. First solution is to run a pipe from your leader to a drywell to accept runoff from the roof. They make plastic drywells you can install yourself (I am talking about an ADS stormchamber type drywell, with capacity >100 gallons, not a flo-well type that holds about 25 gallons). Although it appears you have other problems, with the stormwater properly directed, they may not be a factor anymore.

Tim

You are exactly right there is no form of drainage behind/through the wall. All the gutters are drained off the property, so when not clogged all roof rain water will be delivered away from the house. I have a landscape guy getting ready to remove the bushes and dig out behind the wall and install crushed gravel and a drain pipe (french drain) behind the wall. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Once he starts tearing things up, I will post some pictures.

Gonzo


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post #43 of 741 Old 09-28-2006, 03:53 PM
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Looks like you already ripped out the subfloor - just wondering, couldn't you have pulled it, put down a 6mm plastic sheeting, put the sleepers down again, rigid insulation instead of pink stuff, and plywood on top? Not sure how this compares to use of DriCore, but its what I have seen in the construction books I've seen (and what I'm considering doing, but waffling a little on that vs. DriCore too).


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post #44 of 741 Old 09-29-2006, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks like you already ripped out the subfloor - just wondering, couldn't you have pulled it, put down a 6mm plastic sheeting, put the sleepers down again, rigid insulation instead of pink stuff, and plywood on top? Not sure how this compares to use of DriCore, but its what I have seen in the construction books I've seen (and what I'm considering doing, but waffling a little on that vs. DriCore too).


Too late, but I have read that laying a layer of plastic over concrete basement floors and building on top of it is a bad idea. Any moisture will be stuck under the plastic and eventually lead to mold issues. That is the advantage of drycore/delta-fl/etc; it allows air to circulate between the moisture barrier and the concrete and eventually venting at the edges of the subfloor.

Also, there was no way this thing was coming up without a circular saw and a crowbar

Gonzo


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post #45 of 741 Old 10-14-2006, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Things I have done:

Finished mudding the hallway and primed the hallway (not that anyone cares, but it is a very nice hallway and I am quite proud).
Primed and painted the storage closet off of the aformentioned hallway.
Put up some shelves in the storage closet.
Got my Delta-fl today and started rebuilding my subfloor

Delta-Fl going down


Delta-Fl completed (took about 20 minutes)


Subfloor going in.


THE hallway.



Storage closet. I know this doesn't really get the HT forum juices pumping, but it allows for more room in the garage/shop, which allows for more HT building!


Gonzo


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post #46 of 741 Old 10-14-2006, 04:59 PM
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Gonzo,

Great thread - highly entertaining
I've got my fingers crossed for you that "Johnny law" doesn't make you tear down the great work you've done to this point.
Good luck
Calvin

Check out my construction thread below -

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post #47 of 741 Old 10-14-2006, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks calvin. After many sleepless nights I have resigned myself to the notion that the worse case scenerio is that I get busted and it cost me a lot of money to pay someone else to redo things. That is what the HELOC is for anyway, right?

Gonzo


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post #48 of 741 Old 10-15-2006, 03:48 PM - Thread Starter
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The subfloor is complete. Left 1/4" gap between the floor and the baseplates of the wall; a floating floor, but not really since I had to Tapcon down several "bouncy" spots.

Looking towards the screen wall:


Looking towards the back wall (bar room on the other side) and the entrance:


Daddy's messy assistant:


I did a sketchup rendering of the bar room layout a few weeks ago. I will try to figure out how to post it sometime this week. Time to drink a beer and watch some football.

Gonzo


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post #49 of 741 Old 10-16-2006, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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So here is a very sketchy sketchup rendering of the bar room. I am going for what I call a elegant-neo-medieval-castle-dungeon look. This is hard to explain and my wife thinks I am crazy, but I think it will be really cool. Basically, I want some stone, wrought iron, tile, dark distressed wood and nice lighting. Likely a tapestry on the wall. I have been cruising e-bay to find a nice suit of armor for the room...but nothing yet. Probably put some wrought iron candle sconces on the walls also (sort of like torches ).

Here is the sketch. In the corner will be a wine cellar. The door on the left is the entrance to the theater (there is a floor plan earlier in this thread on the 1st page, if you need some perspective).



This image sort of captures the "feel" I am going for.
http://www.rosehillwinecellars.com/3...H_020_viewFull

Maybe a door to the wine cellar, and possibly HT, like this:
http://wineracks.vigilantinc.com/doo...uscan_door.asp

Maybe a some wood post and beams like this:
http://www.oldirondoors.com/wine-cellar-door.html

I plan on using OC cultured stone in the bar and also refinishing the fireplace in the pool room with the same stone (it will be much better than the current brick). Some swords and a shield over the mantle!!

I hope to create a cool "feel" to the space without making it into a "wow, this guy is kind of creepy" space. Maybe I will do a "cool" verses "creepy" poll when it is all done and let you guys decide

Gonzo


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post #50 of 741 Old 10-17-2006, 12:53 PM
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that is a cool idea. good luck.
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post #51 of 741 Old 10-22-2006, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, the old lady had some issues with my previous bar plan, so some changes were made. She did not want the wine cellar, which I think she is right about. It was going to run about 2 grand to do it right (with cooling and the racks, etc). So I went back to the sketching board and have a new layout. Since I couldn't do the cellar, I lobbied for a flat panel for the bar. Bingo! I think I will put in 5.1 with in-wall and in-ceiling speakers (not the best I know, but it is just a bar room after all).

I am still going for the previously mentioned design motif. I still want to bring some stone into the room, but I am not sure where to put it at this point.

Please excuse the Flintstone's couch. You get the idea. Also, I did not sketch the bar stools, please use your imagination





Comments or suggestions are welcome.

Gonzo


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post #52 of 741 Old 10-22-2006, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Built the knee wall for the bar today. Got a couple of kitchen cabinet catalogs from Lowes also today. Made a few adjustments to the PVC drain pipe that had been installed by the previous owner. I measured the existing pipe to be 2". Went to Lowes got what I needed, but when I got home I realized that it is a 1.5" pipe I got my tape measure out again, and measured the diameter again. It is closer to 2" than 1.5, that is for sure! Maybe the size is based on the internal diameter? Anyway, I figured out you can tell the size of a PVC pipe by reading the writing on the pipe, duhhh. Back to Lowes...back home...after 10 minutes the project was done. It never ceases to amaze me how a 10 minute project can take 2 hours. I guess that is the principle behing the "learning curve."

Knee wall. Note the staggard stud for acoustics. Should make the room sound great!!! Just kidding. I had a surplus of 2x4s so I thought I would use them.



Gonzo


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post #53 of 741 Old 10-25-2006, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Here is the sketch. In the corner will be a wine cellar. The door on the left is the entrance to the theater (there is a floor plan earlier in this thread on the 1st page, if you need some perspective).


What a shame you had to drop your previous plan - I liked that idea!
In my basement I have also foreseen a dedicated room for a wine cellar - used as storage room in the past 4 year though....first the HT!
Keep up your great work!

Mike


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post #54 of 741 Old 10-25-2006, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
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I measured the existing pipe to be 2". Went to Lowes got what I needed, but when I got home I realized that it is a 1.5" pipe I got me tape measure out again, and measured the diameter again. It is closer to 2" than 1.5, that is for sure! Maybe the size is based on the internal diameter? Anyway, I figured out you can tell the size of a PVC pipe by reading the writing on the pipe, duhhh. Back to Lowes...back home...after 10 minutes the project was done. It never ceases to amaze me how a 10 minute project can take 2 hours. I guess that is the principle behind the "learning curve."

Oh man, that's some crystal-clear hindsight, huh? I liked your stone look around the bar, too. But WAF is always a huge component of this, right?
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post #55 of 741 Old 10-25-2006, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Oh man, that's some crystal-clear hindsight, huh? I liked your stone look around the bar, too. But WAF is always a huge component of this, right?

I am playing with some ideas of how to get some stone in the room to at least give the same feel. I have thought of building a fake fireplace around the flat screen out of stone...or trimming out the entrance to the room from the pool room with stone...

Gonzo


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post #56 of 741 Old 10-25-2006, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Built the knee wall for the bar today. Got a couple of kitchen cabinet catalogs from Lowes also today. Made a few adjustments to the PVC drain pipe that had been installed by the previous owner. I measured the existing pipe to be 2". Went to Lowes got what I needed, but when I got home I realized that it is a 1.5" pipe I got me tape measure out again, and measured the diameter again. It is closer to 2" than 1.5, that is for sure! Maybe the size is based on the internal diameter? Anyway, I figured out you can tell the size of a PVC pipe by reading the writing on the pipe, duhhh. Back to Lowes...back home...after 10 minutes the project was done. It never ceases to amaze me how a 10 minute project can take 2 hours. I guess that is the principle behing the "learning curve."

So does that make:

Pearl #10: Check for identification markings before purchasing supplies

Keep up the great work

Cheers,
Mark

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post #57 of 741 Old 10-25-2006, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

So does that make:

Pearl #10: Check for identification markings before purchasing supplies

Keep up the great work

Cheers,
Mark

Absolutely!!!

Gonzo


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post #58 of 741 Old 11-06-2006, 06:20 AM
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Regarding your new subfloor, I have already purchased enough Dri-Core to cover my HT, but am considering going the the Delta-Fl or Platon route for the rest of the basement. It does seem like an easier install for big open rooms (which the rest of my basement is). Did you use togue and groove plywood? Are the pieces grooved along the 4' edge, and if not, how did you attach adjoining pieces alond that edge?
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post #59 of 741 Old 11-06-2006, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I did use tongue and groove plywood. The T&G are along the 8' side and the 4' sides are just butt joints. There is about a 1/16 to 1/8" gap between the butt joints. This will not be a factor once carpet pad and carpet are down.

As mentioned, I also used tapcons to attach the plywood to the concrete floor at bouncy spots, so the pieces of plywood are not going anywhere. Hope this helps.

Gonzo


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post #60 of 741 Old 11-11-2006, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Still working in the bar. Ran a lot of romex. Ran some speaker wire to the equipment closet. Quad shielded RG-6 just in case I want to put a sub in the bar. I wired it for 5.1, not sure yet if I will ever use it, but just in case. Also ran 3 CAT5's to the room.

Went to Lowes and bought cabinets for the bar. Put it on my wife's Lowes card. I didn't have her card, but when I saw that they were running a no interest, no payment, until Jan '08 special, I got the guy to look up her Lowe's card on the computer and waallaah! Boy will she be suprised!

I also bought a drywall lift on Ebay ($185.00), I figure I will sell it on ebay or maybe to a AVS'er when I am done with it. I consider this one of those "make-sure-you-have-the-right-tool-for-the-job" situations.

Here is the lift and sheet number one...



EDIT: The floppy romex in the picture is just for temporary lighting, I need to go into the circuit box and attach a new circuit tomorrow

Gonzo


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