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Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

mikeryan's Avatar mikeryan
07:11 PM Liked: 10
post #91 of 387
01-07-2007 | Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zinema View Post

Steve, at least someone is missing me here....

Mike, I bet there are many 10's of lurkers, like me, looking forward to your updates, for each guy, like Steve, who has something to contribute to the discussion. Just so you know, yours is one of my favorite threads to learn from and get ideas for my theater. As a matter of fact, I hope you'll take it as the sincerest of flattery if I copy your column design. Great stuff!

Best regards,
Mike
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
04:23 AM Liked: 10
post #92 of 387
01-08-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeryan View Post

Mike, I bet there are many 10's of lurkers, like me, looking forward to your updates, for each guy, like Steve, who has something to contribute to the discussion. Just so you know, yours is one of my favorite threads to learn from and get ideas for my theater. As a matter of fact, I hope you'll take it as the sincerest of flattery if I copy your column design. Great stuff!

Best regards,
Mike

Thanks Mike, feel free to use the column design - that's exactly the reason why we all spend hours of reading and writing in this forum here - share ideas!!
(If you need more details from the column design/building let me know)

Just a little update on the construction - finally I managed to cut all 7 rings for the spot light holes in the soffit. They are 1cm thick and will be used to mount the fabric around the openings. The 1cm thick strip for mounting on the wall side is still missing in this picture....


I did also start to work on the ceiling - using my CAD model of the room I found the areas of the 1st reflection from the LCR speaker, did this for the front and for the rear row. Just to make sure to cover enough area I made the zones 40cm (~16") wide at the full ceiling width. For the rest I mounted 1.8cm (~3/4") thick boards (of course with foam strips) as a framing to the ceiling.


Then I will mount 8mm (~1/4") thick particle boards to the framing to cover the whole front part of the room excluding the reflection areas and the rear part. There will be no insulation between the boards and the ceiling wall - air gap of 1.8cm!


Later I will add 3cm (~1") thick "Akustikfilz" (fibreglass mat) in the reflection zones to absorb the mids/highs there. The rest of the construction should reflect most of the mids/highs but absorb some of the low frequencies (around 30% up to ~300Hz).
I did not build this construction in the rear part of the room since I will loose to much room height (even it is just a few cm) where the riser for the second row is located. The whole ceiling will then be covered with 9 fabric covered frames - 3 in the rear part directly mounted on the ceiling and 6 in the front part.
SVonhof's Avatar SVonhof
07:13 AM Liked: 11
post #93 of 387
01-08-2007 | Posts: 4,029
Joined: Apr 2001
Mike, it is interesting to watch how you have to do things considering that your whole room is a concrete box. Good for sound insulation, bad for the hard surfaces. Obviously you are doing your best to take care of the hard surfaces though.

Keep up the good work!
LewisCobb's Avatar LewisCobb
08:02 AM Liked: 10
post #94 of 387
01-08-2007 | Posts: 244
Joined: Mar 2005
Good work Mike - There's people all over the globe keeping an eye on your progress I am sure....even one fellow from a small sparcely populated corner of Canada....

I have a question on the Cara program that you have been using to model the acoustics in your room. Are you able to modify the material/adsorption coefficients that come with the program or do you have to stay with what is supplied? Also - in the case that your speakers are not in the database, is the program still a useful tool to have ? I'm looking at getting this program for my HT planning in the next few weeks and thought I'd ask.

Best Regards,
Lewis
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
08:15 AM Liked: 10
post #95 of 387
01-08-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisCobb View Post

Good work Mike - There's people all over the globe keeping an eye on your progress I am sure....even one fellow from a small sparcely populated corner of Canada....

I have a question on the Cara program that you have been using to model the acoustics in your room. Are you able to modify the material/adsorption coefficients that come with the program or do you have to stay with what is supplied? Also - in the case that your speakers are not in the database, is the program still a useful tool to have ? I'm looking at getting this program for my HT planning in the next few weeks and thought I'd ask.
Lewis

Thanks Lewis, I guess most of us (including myself) are more reading than writing...

Cara comes with a database of common materials - but you can add new ones and you can also modify existing ones. You do this by defining the absorption curve in very fine steps if you want. Same goes for the speakers - you have a selection of predefined speakers but you can also create new speakers by using the built in speaker editor. Of course when you add your own speaker the results are only as good as your provided information. The predefined speakers use measured data, the new ones will "only" use calculated parameter.

Hope that helped...
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
06:30 AM Liked: 10
post #96 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Meanwhile I received my amp for the subwoofer - I didn't want put the amplifier module into the subwoofer case so I went the route of an external amp, running with speaker cables (bi-wiring) to the sub.

Here is a picture of the amp and the technical specs:




This together with my Yamaha should give me enough room to adjust the bass management!

I have finished also the plans for the TL. It will be made from 16mm MDF which is already ordered - hope to have time to build it this week...
Since it is going to be hidden behind the rear wall framing I will keep it plain MDF for now - it's going to be an ugly large box but should sound sweet!






continued in next post....
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
06:33 AM Liked: 10
post #97 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
...more pics




Making also a good progress on the room - basic framing is almost done and the carpet should go in this week....I am so excited!

Pictures of the room will follow later this week.
LewisCobb's Avatar LewisCobb
07:52 AM Liked: 10
post #98 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 244
Joined: Mar 2005
Looking good Mike - you're really making productive use of SketchUp - I find that the use of SketchUp to conceptualize things really helps make the design and decision process go much faster. My wife however is convinced that I have lost my mind and I will never really "build" anything - just draw it on the computer.....
swithey's Avatar swithey
08:42 AM Liked: 10
post #99 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 2,642
Joined: Oct 2001
That sub box is impressive. Is this similar in design to the "innards" of the Danley DTS-20?

Zinema's Avatar Zinema
08:53 AM Liked: 10
post #100 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Steve,

I do not know the Danley sub in detail - but I guess it has also 2 drivers. So looking at this picture lets me believe it is also a build as a dual Transmission Line...

Do you have specs of the Danley?
swithey's Avatar swithey
09:38 AM Liked: 10
post #101 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 2,642
Joined: Oct 2001
Nope -- no details, sorry.. but I think it only has a single 12" woof and can do 20Hz at 124db

I am not familiar with your sub design either but am very curious about how it sounds compared to a normal box sealed/ported sub. I've been very happy with my IB setup but it does transmit bass into the house a bit more. My wife reminded me of that yesterday when I was demoing some material
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
09:52 AM Liked: 10
post #102 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Found the specs of the DTS-20 on the net...very nice!

It uses a single 12" driver - so it is has a single TL.
The dimensions are similar to my design but I am using one 8" and one 10" long excursion driver together in one case (each TL tuned for the specific driver) which should move even more air as a single 12" driver...

Need to build this monster this week, get an SPL meter and run some tests - just waiting for the MDF to be ready to pickup!!!
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
11:28 AM Liked: 10
post #103 of 387
01-15-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
UPS just delivered my ordered screen fabric!

It's a 1.0 gain 3 layer screen material, white front layer, a very thin fibre glass middle support layer and a black back layer.

It's called Cinetec 1.30 - manufactured in Germany.
Size of fabric - 300 cm x 150 cm
Outside frame dimensions - 296 cm x 128,5 cm
Frame 8 cm wide covered with deep black velvet
Viewing size with frame attached - 270 cm x 112,5 cm - AR 2.40:1

This is going to be a very busy week!
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
02:44 PM Liked: 10
post #104 of 387
01-22-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Yesterday I finished the case for my TL-Sub - it's massive!

Here are some pictures of the construction - first a look at the MDF - 4.5m² for a single sub..


I started with the rear, bottom and left side. All glued and screwed together.


Then I built the inner part including the support pieces to give the whole construction enough stiffness.


In the next step I combined the two parts - looking like something interesting already.


Here a closed up of the 180° turn of the line for the 10 driver. The little box on the bottom left side is unused, there I will place the connection terminal.


And here I present the final housing - next I will place this monster on the rear wall behind the framing, add the connection terminal and drivers. I guess I will need a strong helping hand to move this thing - it has around 90kg, 215cm wide, 47cm high and 26cm deep.


I am not going to make it look nice since it is going to be hidden behind the rear wall framing anyway - the only target I have is to make it sound great!!

Next: Finish rear wall framing and add the wooden trim on the riser edges.
Craigo87's Avatar Craigo87
09:52 PM Liked: 11
post #105 of 387
01-22-2007 | Posts: 285
Joined: Jul 2005
Mike,

I just found your thread today and am fascinated with the work you've done. Especially interested in your subwoofer design. It got me thinking, why not turn a riser platform into a subwoofer? Couldn't a person use the large volume inside a riser for a subwoofer? Have the speakers mounted under the seats so that they're conceiled and even put some grates over them to protect them. Do you think it could be done with some success? What would be the down side?

On a related topic. Where did you come up with the design for your subwoofer? It looks pretty cool.

thanks,

Craigo
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
05:19 PM Liked: 10
post #106 of 387
01-23-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigo87 View Post

I just found your thread today and am fascinated with the work you've done. Especially interested in your subwoofer design. It got me thinking, why not turn a riser platform into a subwoofer? Couldn't a person use the large volume inside a riser for a subwoofer? Have the speakers mounted under the seats so that they're conceiled and even put some grates over them to protect them. Do you think it could be done with some success? What would be the down side?

On a related topic. Where did you come up with the design for your subwoofer? It looks pretty cool.

Craigo,
thank you - in fact when I started with my cinema design I had also the idea to integrate the subwoofer in the riser....

I wanted to build the Transmission Line inside the riser (like I did in my case now) but decided not to do it. Don't ask me for the exact reason for this discission, but I guess I did not feel too good to have the sub combined with the riser platform. It is more flexible like I have it now and if I have to change the subwoofer case for some reason after testing I do not have to rip apart the whole riser...

Well to build a subwoofer as an TL is not my idea....there are also some different ways to design a Transmission Line. The company producing the drivers provides also plans for building speakers - from there I had the original idea. But I had to redesign the plans since I used different drivers and adapted the sub for my room - so there is not much left from the original plan.

I hope to find time this week to continue working in the HT, I'm really wanting to test drive this baby!
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
03:05 PM Liked: 10
post #107 of 387
01-26-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Just finished the real wall framing after placing the sub along the wall.

I put the sub on a 1cm thick hard foam mat (used normally for camping beneath the sleeping bag) to avoid vibrations and to decouple it a little bit from the riser.


The sub case just fits with a 1cm gap in the front and in the back behind the rear wall framing. To avoid that the case is moving and touching the frame or the wall a placed also small strips of the foam to keep it in place.


Here a view of the left side where the 2 TL openings are located


Next: Tomorrow I will start with the wooden trim on the riser edges.
swithey's Avatar swithey
03:37 PM Liked: 10
post #108 of 387
01-26-2007 | Posts: 2,642
Joined: Oct 2001
The people in the back are really going to "feel" that bass I like it
SVonhof's Avatar SVonhof
06:53 PM Liked: 11
post #109 of 387
01-26-2007 | Posts: 4,029
Joined: Apr 2001
Keep going Mike. Interesting stuff here!
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
01:28 PM Liked: 10
post #110 of 387
01-27-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Today I started on the wooden trim on the edges of the riser platform. Cut all pieces and glued them on the riser using a special extra strong glue. Now I will let it harden and tomorrow I'm going to round the outside corners, sand the joints and fill the gaps with liquid wood. Then I will sand it again completely to get a very smooth surface ready to paint.


Close up of the right step. After the wood is painted I will install carpet on the top of the riser, on the 2 steps and on all vertical surfaces. The top surface of the wooden trim and the carpet will be on the same level - so the wood should nicely outline the carpet once finished.

mbgonzomd's Avatar mbgonzomd
06:06 PM Liked: 20
post #111 of 387
01-27-2007 | Posts: 3,722
Joined: Jul 2006
Mike,
Is the trim on the riser sitting on top of the OSB (I think that is OSB ) or did you cut the OSB short to allow for the trim to butt up against it? I am planning on doing the same thing, but will be staining the edge instead of painting. Thanks.

Edit: Never mind, I can tell in the previous pictures how you did it. 2 layers, one cut shorter to leave a groove to put the trim, right?
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
07:37 PM Liked: 10
post #112 of 387
01-27-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Never mind, I can tell in the previous pictures how you did it. 2 layers, one cut shorter to leave a groove to put the trim, right?

Correct!

I will use 2 layers of a wax based varnish which will give a semi gloss finish when polished - so there will be some structure of the wood visible after painting.
W00lly's Avatar W00lly
10:15 PM Liked: 21
post #113 of 387
01-27-2007 | Posts: 2,206
Joined: Jan 2007
Mike

I must say your wood working skillz are impressive

I just registered to AVS and from the few hours of lurking I have found a ton of useful info for my HT room.
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
01:31 AM Liked: 10
post #114 of 387
01-28-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

I must say your wood working skillz are impressive

I just registered to AVS and from the few hours of lurking I have found a ton of useful info for my HT room.

Thanks W00lly,

welcome to the forum - the world of Thousand and One Ideas
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
12:56 AM Liked: 10
post #115 of 387
01-29-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Yesterday was a very important day for me - psychologically wise...

Carried the four columns in the garage and sanded them 2 times - didn't want to have the dusty mess in the HT!
Sanded also the wooden trim on the riser.

BUT the most important tasks yesterday: Removed all tools from the HT room and cleaned everything with the vac - took me an hour to do it right. Good that we have a central vac installed in the house (this is not very common in Europe btw) so all the dust was really leaving the room/house!

Today I'm going to close all the small gaps of the columns and riser border with liquid wood and sand it again once hardened.

Next steps: Paint columns and riser edge - then INSTALL THE CARPET!!
BritInVA's Avatar BritInVA
06:52 AM Liked: 13
post #116 of 387
01-29-2007 | Posts: 3,816
Joined: Mar 2006
Just don't put the PJ up too soon - that seems to be the one thing that slows progress.

Look forward to seeing the progress pics.

Cheers,
Mark
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
07:02 AM Liked: 10
post #117 of 387
01-29-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Just don't put the PJ up too soon - that seems to be the one thing that slows progress.

I know that and I believe you are absolutely right....but I fear I can not resist!!
jikkjack's Avatar jikkjack
07:14 AM Liked: 15
post #118 of 387
01-29-2007 | Posts: 994
Joined: Nov 2005
WOW. Mike - I just read through your thread and I am definitely impressed. You are doing a fantastic job. Everything looks great, house, home theater, attention to detail. Will be following along.
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
07:19 AM Liked: 10
post #119 of 387
01-29-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Thanks Jason - we are all a big happy family here!
Zinema's Avatar Zinema
03:42 PM Liked: 10
post #120 of 387
01-30-2007 | Posts: 330
Joined: Sep 2006
Today I finished filling the gaps with liquid wood and sanding the columns and the riser trim. Of course I had to fill the bigger gaps with several layers of liquid wood and sand it also several times - so it took longer than expected, but is done now!

All my four columns ready to paint:


And here the detail of the right step of the riser, also ready to paint:


Next: Apply first layer of varnish

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