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post #91 of 946 Old 03-09-2007, 10:27 AM
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I'll have to go back and look at your stuff - don't have it with me right now.

1. If you can't do anything then we just have to live with it. If you can find some thin batting to fit, just use that. It's not a big enough area to worry about realistically. I'll have to check on the 2"

2. Get them away from the corners as much as possible. They should really be closer together than that.

3. The 2 front corners would be my last choice of where to put them. Optimally, they'd be one centered in front and one centered in back but doubt you wired for that. I'd start with one up front and play with positioning for best blend to the mains with an 80Hz xover. Then you'll have to work the other one in with both the mains and the other sub. 2 subs are great IF you can put them where they need to be. Personally, I'd probably skip the 2nd one, sell the one you have, and buy one better sub.

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post #92 of 946 Old 03-09-2007, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Update on the Gel Stain - this is definitely the way to go. I haven't got the right color yet (forgot to bring a chunk of veneer to the paint store so had to go off the "stir stick"), but I can tell already its a winner. If you're doing any tight-grained woods like Cherry, Gel Stain works great. Nice even color and no blotching. Bob Flexner is my hero:

http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-.../dp/0762101911

Craig

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post #93 of 946 Old 03-09-2007, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

I'll have to go back and look at your stuff - don't have it with me right now.

1. If you can't do anything then we just have to live with it. If you can find some thin batting to fit, just use that. It's not a big enough area to worry about realistically. I'll have to check on the 2"

2. Get them away from the corners as much as possible. They should really be closer together than that.

3. The 2 front corners would be my last choice of where to put them. Optimally, they'd be one centered in front and one centered in back but doubt you wired for that. I'd start with one up front and play with positioning for best blend to the mains with an 80Hz xover. Then you'll have to work the other one in with both the mains and the other sub. 2 subs are great IF you can put them where they need to be. Personally, I'd probably skip the 2nd one, sell the one you have, and buy one better sub.

Bryan

Great advice (as usual). Thanks Bryan.

Craig

No changes are permanent, but change is - Peart
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post #94 of 946 Old 03-12-2007, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Taking some vacation this week to try and finish this puppy off.

Today I MDF'd and veneered the stage. I'm going to put Cherry nosing around the stage and I may put a step detail on each side but haven't decided yet.

Tomorrow the goal is the finish the acoustic treatments and get the proscenium framed.


Craig

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post #95 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Managed to get the staining / finish done last week. I also finished all the acoustic treatments. Next step is to paint the ceiling then put up the fabric!

Here are some shots of the finished wood veneer. Stain is Minwax Red Mahogany and the finish coat is Minwax Wipe-on Poly (beautiful stuff).

I built a custom nosing for the stage out of MDF. I did it pretty much the same as the light tray - its 3/4" MDF rounded over on the front edge. I have 2 layers of MDF on the lip to give it some depth.





I ended up putting my rear channels in the light tray - a bit of a compromise due to where the doors are, but I'm happy with the result.



I got the lights up over the screen as well and put in the GOM:




I also mounted the base cabinets to the wall in the lobby area so its ready for granite

Craig

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post #96 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, and THIS arrived

(B&K Reference 200.7 Amp)

Craig

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post #97 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 12:41 PM
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The wood looks nice! Although a bit sacrilegious to put mahogany stain on cherry.
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post #98 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 12:43 PM
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Hey Bob,

Looks great!

I'll be starting to stain in about a week and the color you choose is pretty much what I'm looking for. (I'll be staining 10 fluted columns, 2 runs of crown, base, a six panel door and casing - all in poplar except for the door and casing which is pine).

Would you be willing to share the name and maker of the stain and how you applied it? Also the steps you took from prep to finish. What is the finish?

Thanks very much.

By the way I'm going with the same B&K amp.

Stu
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post #99 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin_Wadsworth View Post

The wood looks nice! Although a bit sacrilegious to put mahogany stain on cherry.


Craig

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post #100 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cohen33 View Post

Would you be willing to share the name and maker of the stain and how you applied it? Also the steps you took from prep to finish. What is the finish?

Hi Stu,
Stain is "Minwax Red Mahogany" and finish coat is "Minwax Wipe-on Poly - Clear Satin". The finish coat is (IMHO) the make-or-break for a professional looking job.

Sanding bare wood:
Step 1: 150 grit (I didn't do this with the veneer since its pretty smooth to start with, but I will be using it on my trim pieces)
Step 2: 220 grit

Stain: 2 coats (note: I didn't let is sit for very long on the wood as that tended to lead to blotching - I wiped it off pretty quickly)

Finish:
Step 1: 1 coat Wipe-on Poly (let this dry overnight at minimum despite what it says on the can)
Step 2: sand with 220 grit
Step 3: 2nd coat Wipe-on Poly (again, let it dry thoroughly)
Step 4: sand with 320 grit
Step 5: 3rd coat Wipe-on Poly
Step 6 (optional but I did it): sand (very) lightly with 400 grit
Step 7: final coat of Poly (thin)

Its definitely time consuming but it really does look nice when its done - at least it does to me

Quote:


By the way I'm going with the same B&K amp.

Nice! I can't wait to get it fired up!! My speakers are still sitting in my family room "breaking in"

Craig

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post #101 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 03:05 PM
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Thanks Bob. Really looks awesome! I could tell you put a lot of time and effort (4 coats of poly!) into the job.

I tested the Minwax Red Mahogany a while ago and I don't think the poplar took the stain nearly as nice as the cherry. I will try it again though and spen a little more effort on the test.

How did you apply the stain and poly? Bristle brush? foam brush? rag?

Thanks again for the advice and congrats on a great job.

Stu
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post #102 of 946 Old 03-20-2007, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Stu. I used a stain applicator pad - its a palm-sized foam pad you can get at Home Depot. Works really well - particularly on the Poly.

Try using the Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner on the poplar. If memory serves Poplar takes stain unevenly - not such a big issue with veneer (as I found out through my trials and tribulations earlier in the thread) but on solid wood it should make a pretty big difference.

Craig

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post #103 of 946 Old 03-23-2007, 05:35 PM
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great work!

super dirty , super clean , pow
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post #104 of 946 Old 03-25-2007, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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great work!

Thanks! I'll be posted some more pictures soon. Stay tuned.

Craig.

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post #105 of 946 Old 03-27-2007, 08:50 AM
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Craig,

Thanks for the help. I've been testing some stains to try and get the "right" color. I followed your lead and sanded to 400 grit for the final coat of satin poly and I think the test pieces look pretty good. Just curious whether you ever experimented or considered using a semi-gloss poly instead of satin? When the poly is still wet the grain really seems to jump out of the wood.

Stu

P.S. By the way, I was surprised that the test piece treated with the pre-stain wood conditioner was much more uneven than just using stain directly. I can see why staining is more art than science.
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post #106 of 946 Old 03-27-2007, 09:59 AM
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The title of this thread cracks me up every time I see it !!!

Nice work, no doubt I'll learn a few things from this thread as I progress in my own basement.

Even Frederick thought his grandfather's work was doodoo before he gave it a stab
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post #107 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cohen33 View Post

Craig,

Thanks for the help. I've been testing some stains to try and get the "right" color. I followed your lead and sanded to 400 grit for the final coat of satin poly and I think the test pieces look pretty good. Just curious whether you ever experimented or considered using a semi-gloss poly instead of satin? When the poly is still wet the grain really seems to jump out of the wood.

Stu

P.S. By the way, I was surprised that the test piece treated with the pre-stain wood conditioner was much more uneven than just using stain directly. I can see why staining is more art than science.

Hey Stu, must have missed your post somehow. Anyway, good to hear things are working out. I decided on Satin more to reduce reflections from the screen. But you're right, it does look really nice when wet.

Interesting on the wood conditioner. Maybe experiment with how long you leave it on. Bob Flexner in his book, "Understanding Wood Finishing" says that the label is wrong and it should be left overnight.

Craig

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post #108 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsoon View Post

The title of this thread cracks me up every time I see it !!!

Nice work, no doubt I'll learn a few things from this thread as I progress in my own basement.

Thanks! don't hesitate to ask - I think I've made every mistake in the book and a few more that weren't in the book, so happy to help others avoid them

Craig

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post #109 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Well folks, this is taking WAYYYYYYYYYY longer than I thought it would. That point hit home when I was talking to my son's GR1 teacher. Apparently when asked what his daddy did, my son's reply was, "works in the basement"

Anyway, here are some more pics.

I painted the ceiling and finished putting up the fabric behind the screen. You can see the reflection of the FRK insulation at the top left and right of the screen wall. I'm going to have to double up there I think (I doubled in the middle which is why you don't see the reflection there).


finished the speaker column fabric. You can see the Monitor Audio Gold Ref FX's lurking back there (funny how much the flash shows).


I also did the speaker fabric along the underside of the soffits. I had to do some head-scratching to figure out how to hide the rear-channel in-walls. I ended wrapping an MDF frame and using magnetic door catches to hold it in place. Works really well actually



I also finished all of the acoustic treatments along the sidewalls and rear wall - its all ready for fabric!


Craig

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post #110 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Speaking of fabric, here is the first piece up - I wanted to make sure my idea for hiding staples would work and see how it would look. I'm pretty happy with it. Below the fabric will be cherry wood "wainscoting" that will be finished like the bottom of the columns - the inside of the wainscoting frames will be black GOM





This is the carpet that will be going in - colors look funny in this picture. It actually matches the wood/wall fabric really well.


I've decided to go ahead and build the riser now - I was originally going to wait but didn't think I could stomach doing it once the room was done. So that is this weekends project. You can see the layout on the floor. Riser will be ~9.5"

Craig

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post #111 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
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this is one of the reasons things are taking so long - the "rest of the basement". A little OT, but here is the bathroom tile finished. We're making it into a steam shower. Only problem is power. I never thought to look and see how much power the steam unit needs - the one I need for my application takes 40 amps!! My sub-panel that I was going to feed it from is only 60 amp so that's not going to work. So now I have to figure out how to get another line from my main panel (across the finished ceiling)




Craig

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post #112 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 09:40 AM
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Hay Strange,

You said 'ask questions'. Well, you could have said that just to be nice, but I'm gonna ask 'em anyway.

If I'm correct, you are ceiling mounting the two rears only?

Have you had everything fired up yet? If so, how do they sound? Why did you decide to ceiling mount your rears and what criteria did you use when selecting them.

I understand that ceiling mounted speakers is not fully desireable, but I may be forced to do something similar. I have no back wall to hang rears on and to do a 'drop down to ear level' thing with standard matched surrounds would obscure the view of the screen wall from the bar area beyound.

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post #113 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monsoon View Post

Well, you could have said that just to be nice, but I'm gonna ask 'em anyway

nope, I meant it. I learned so much here, hopefully I can give a little in return.
Quote:
If I'm correct, you are ceiling mounting the two rears only?Have you had everything fired up yet? If so, how do they sound? Why did you decide to ceiling mount your rears and what criteria did you use when selecting them.

Yes, you are correct. I have double doors on the back wall of my theater which eat up most of the available wall space. There was no other way to put them in symmetrically without using the soffit. In retrospect, I probably should have put them more away from the sidewalls. But the in-walls I went with were too big to put in the the "main" part of the soffit. If I had it to do again, I would have made my soffit wider to make sure I could accomodate the speakers more toward the middle of the back wall. Now all of that said, they sound really good and I'm very pleased with the results. Bottom line is that the rear should be a non-directional soundfield anyway, so I don't think it hurts much if at all. It certainly sounds good to my ear.

I went with Monitor Audio Gold Reference CP in-walls. They have a built-in back-box so I think they are a bit better than your average in-walls. Triads are nice too.

Craig

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post #114 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 10:45 AM
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Looking good brew! Can't wait to see more pics.

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post #115 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Looking good brew! Can't wait to see more pics.

Thanks! In the home stretch now. I'm hoping to be done in the next few weeks.

Craig

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post #116 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Question guys: What would you consider the minimum "walkway" width between the seats and the wall? Is 22" too narrow?

Craig

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post #117 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 12:27 PM
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strange_brew,

Great thread your HT and basement are coming along great and so far it looks fantastic. Shame about the power in the basement hopefully you can get it taken care with out to much hassle (In my new home my wife's kitchen under full load was 93 amps and I was originally going with a 100 amp breaker box so that didn't last to long before I had to bump up to 200 amps.)

Regarding your question I think 22" is fine I think I'm leaving 24" between my rows which seems like enough to me.

Looking foward to seeing more pics.
Cheers
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post #118 of 946 Old 03-29-2007, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks calv1n, that certainly makes me feel a bit better. It does feel a bit tight. I guess I could "cheat" one side over a couple of inches to give 24" for the main walkway.

Anyone else??

Craig

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post #119 of 946 Old 03-31-2007, 05:28 AM
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strange_brew

I just have to say that your basement setup and theatre look great! Looks like youve done a lot of planning and is coming together really well. I can't wait to see more pictures.

In my planning I have 24" on each side of both rows of seating. Providing I stay with the same seats that I have drawn the theatre with I should be between 20 and 24" on each side. If I find it to be a little tight I could also cheat a bit and move my seating over.

Eric H
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post #120 of 946 Old 03-31-2007, 11:48 AM
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Beauty Eh!

I was curious about the stage and screen wall. How deep is the stage (front wall to the stage front)? What is the distance between the screen wall and the front wall? What is the screen height in relationship to the first row viewers eye height?
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