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post #1 of 382 Old 01-14-2007, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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"The Rinker Cinema".

Room Size: 10' - 4" X 23'

Projector: Panasonic PT-AE900U

Approach: Everything within the theather will be DIY on a very low budget. I intend to do 100% of the work myself to reduce costs.

Deadline: It's done when it's done.

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post #2 of 382 Old 01-15-2007, 07:41 AM
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Looks like it ought to be a fun project. Have fun while you learn, and keep those pictures coming!
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post #3 of 382 Old 01-17-2007, 10:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Tonight I started construction of The Rinker Cinema by removing the paneling and trim from the walls. As you can see I discovered mildew, bee hives, old insulation and wiring.











I plan on applying Drylock to the walls this weekend for water proofing.

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post #4 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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What do you guys think about me keeping up the 2x2 framing and building new 2x4 framing in front to create a room within a room? I guess I could then place R13 insulation on the back between the 2X2's and R16 insulation in front between the 2x4's.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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post #5 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 11:39 AM
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Wow, that was some bee hive! Did you find their entrance location and take care of that so it does not happen again?

Steve
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post #6 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 11:42 AM
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I think I would worry about the bees first - thats not a problem you want happening again.

How many layers of Drywall are you considering? Adding the extra 2x4 is going to cause the room to shrink up a bit.
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post #7 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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After removing the bee hive, I plan on using two coats of Drylock on the walls to help waterproof them. Then I will use window & trim spray insulation around the window where the hives existed. I will also check outside and use some sort of concrete patch if needed.

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post #8 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 03:30 PM
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I would think if you are to drylock the walls pull off the 2x2s and do all the block wall with the drylock.
Thats what would be more important to me.
Doug
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post #9 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SatelliteGuy View Post

What do you guys think about me keeping up the 2x2 framing and building new 2x4 framing in front to create a room within a room? I guess I could then place R13 insulation on the back between the 2X2's and R16 insulation in front between the 2x4's.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


I have the same size room as you (maybe a bit wider). I would try not to narrow the room any more than it already is.
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post #10 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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RobZ,

Where did you buy your Zuniga Family Cinema sign? I would like to get one just like it for our hallway leading into the theater.

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post #11 of 382 Old 01-18-2007, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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So I take it I should think about tearing out the 2x2's, applying the Drylock and then frame using 2x4's and R16 insulation. This would not only waterproof the entire block wall, it would also allow more space within the theater since I am already limited in space.

I guess I'll sleep on it and make a final decision tomorrow.

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post #12 of 382 Old 01-19-2007, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I have made my final decision. I am going to remove all the old 2x2's and then apply Drylock to the entire wall before reframing using 2x4's. If I am going to do it, I should do it right without cutting corners.

It's going to be a busy weekend. I will post new pictures Sunday night of my progress.

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post #13 of 382 Old 01-19-2007, 01:16 PM
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"If I am going to do it, I should do it right without cutting corners."

Yep. You will forever regret it if you cheat now. I learned the hard way (more than once). While I have concluded projects with acceptable results after cutting corners, it was always in the back of my mind that I gave less than 100%. It is exceptionally bothersome if you cut corners on a project of love like home theater construction. I can hear my grandfather's voice now saying "Do it right the first time or don't do it all."
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post #14 of 382 Old 01-19-2007, 01:18 PM
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Good call on removing the 2x2's. Also make sure you are not dealing with any drainage issues outside. Are the gutters truely taking the water away from the house? Is the ground sloping away for the wall, etc? I would build the new wall an inch or so off of the concrete to create a gap so the insulation does not touch the wall. Once insulation gets wet it takes forever to dry out and is fertile ground for mold.

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post #15 of 382 Old 01-20-2007, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Saturday - January 20, 2007

Removed all the old 2X2's as well as the ceiling and carpet.

Removed old insulation:




I also discovered where the bees came in. I will be filling these gaps with Great Stuff big gap filler.


Removed drywall from ceiling:






Removed rug and tiles:







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post #16 of 382 Old 01-20-2007, 07:53 PM
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Very interesting thread. This will be a cool renovation.
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post #17 of 382 Old 01-20-2007, 08:43 PM
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Looks like a lot of work just to get the room to a good starting point. But, you are doing it right!

-----------------------------------------
The Lava Lounge Construction Photos
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post #18 of 382 Old 01-20-2007, 10:36 PM - Thread Starter
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At first, I was going to keep the 2x2's and the ceiling intact in order to save time and money. However, members on this forum and my wife convinced me to not cut corners and to do the job right. It may take me additional time, but it will all be worth it in the end.

After I started removing the 2x2's and ceiling today, I was so happy I did. This is an example of what I found behind the 2x2's that would have remained if I had left them intact.


Now I have some questions for the experts here on this forum about things that will be coming up.

1) mbgonzomd recommended that I have an inch space between the concrete wall and my framing, so that the insulation does not mildew. Would doing so also improve the sound quality of the theater and not allow it to be heard outside and in other rooms? I guess I could build my framing on all three walls that have the concrete block an inch away and create a room within a room. Except for the fourth wall that is the interior wall with the entrance door to the theater.

2) I am planning on installing DRI CORE subfloor panels on the floor prior to laying down carpet padding. Should I cover the entire floor using the DRI CORE subfloor panels or only between the stage and riser? I was thinking why lay them down under the riser and stage. Or am I just trying to cut corners again?

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post #19 of 382 Old 01-21-2007, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Sunday - January 21, 2007

I removed the remaining carpet from the theater as well as the floor tiles that were underneath. I also removed more of the drywall from the ceiling and along the soffit.

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post #20 of 382 Old 01-22-2007, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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After reading some other threads today, I decided to cover the entire floor with the DriCore product and keep an inch between the block wall and the new framing.

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post #21 of 382 Old 01-24-2007, 03:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't been able to apply the DryLock to the walls yet. DryLock recommends that the temperature be 50 degrees or above. This has put me behind on construction. It is currently in the low 30's and will be dropping to the mid teens later this week. Until it gets warmer, I am spending the time performing additional planning and getting the walls ready for the DryLock product. I am itching to get those stud walls up, so that I can start running my electrical and audio / video cables.

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post #22 of 382 Old 01-27-2007, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Saturday - January 27, 2007

Today, I removed the electrical fixtues from the ceiling as well as some old receptacles and removed the rest of the drywall on the ceiling.



I also found an additional bee hive within the ceiling.


It was discovered that the previous owner had the following on a single 15 amp circuit:

6 - dual receptacles in living area
2 - dual receptacles in garage for power tools by workbench
1 - track light with 4 bulbs
1 - light fixture with 4 bulbs
1 - 4 lamp fluorescent light fixture
2 - 2 lamp fluorescent light fixtures in garage
2 - garage door openers in garage

Good grief! I will be sure to rewire additional circuits once the new framing is up.

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post #23 of 382 Old 01-27-2007, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SatelliteGuy View Post

... mbgonzomd recommended that I have an inch space between the concrete wall and my framing, so that the insulation does not mildew...

That's probably a good idea. You might consider putting 1" of EPS or XPS unfaced foam instead of the airgap. I suggest you read the document Understanding Basements on the BuildingScience.com web site. They have a lot of great info on mold and mositure control.

Regards,
Scott
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post #24 of 382 Old 05-17-2007, 09:11 PM - Thread Starter
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May 17, 2007

Restarting this tread and continuing my home theater project now that the weather is warmer.

Since my last post I have:
1) Patched holes in concrete blocks with mortar.
2) Applied Drylock's Fast Plug along the floor where the walls and floor had separated.
3) Applied 2 layers of Drylock to concrete block walls.

Now I am beginning framing and will post pictures of my progress.

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post #25 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 06:12 AM
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Long time, no post. Good to hear you are back at it. How was putting up that Drylock? Nothing has made me more sore than trying to paint cinderblock walls with Drylock.

Gonzo

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post #26 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 06:36 AM
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I guess it would be in bad taste to say that I'm glad to see things humming along again.
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post #27 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I guess it would be in bad taste to say that I'm glad to see things humming along again.

Buzzing?

Or did he find a humming bird nest also?

Gonzo

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post #28 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 06:49 AM
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humm, buzz, with my hearing it's all the same
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post #29 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 08:25 AM
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Yup, he is probably Busy as a Bee on the theater!

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post #30 of 382 Old 05-18-2007, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you guys, I am glad to be back.

The major holdup was waiting until the weather got warmer in order to apply the Drylock product to the concrete block walls. Without this accomplished I could not begin framing or anything else. Drylock's Fast Plug product worked wonderful in sealing the small gap between the walls and floor. I am glad I took these extra steps before continuing construction even if it delayed the project a few months.

This weekend I plan to hopefully complete the framing. I will then post additional pictures.

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