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post #2131 of 2168 Old 06-12-2014, 05:02 AM
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post #2132 of 2168 Old 06-12-2014, 05:25 AM
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That's awesome!
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post #2133 of 2168 Old 06-19-2014, 09:10 PM
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crap quality I no


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post #2134 of 2168 Old 06-21-2014, 02:05 PM
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I've posted this question in other threads so I apologize but I am looking for a media rack for my theater and am somewhat of a newbie here and found a Middle Atlantic MRK-4426-AV for only $190. Is this a good home theater rack??
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post #2135 of 2168 Old 06-21-2014, 04:06 PM
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I've posted this question in other threads so I apologize but I am looking for a media rack for my theater and am somewhat of a newbie here and found a Middle Atlantic MRK-4426-AV for only $190. Is this a good home theater rack??
It's a great rack and a good price
It's a bit tall, but good for growth. I have the exact same model.

If it is truly an "AV" model, buy it as soon as you can! That is a complete steal. The accessories alone are worth much much more that $190
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post #2136 of 2168 Old 06-26-2014, 12:03 PM
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Hey folks,

Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.

I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.

The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.

Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.

My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?

I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear.


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post #2137 of 2168 Old 06-26-2014, 06:13 PM
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Has that effect on people
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post #2138 of 2168 Old 06-27-2014, 11:43 AM
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Hey folks,

Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.

I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.

The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.

Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.

My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?

I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear

this may be a bit more work but consider:

remove the top panel of the MA rack and have a large diameter hole cut in the location of the vent

I had a similar issue with the top of the SLIM 5 not being vented (I think newer versions are vented): I was able to punch a series of 3 inch holes in the top, with the rack in place, with a portable punch

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post #2139 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 06:31 AM
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I have a MA ERK-4020 rack. I am trying to figure out if I can mount a patch panel to it. My rack faces into my theater and I just hooked up my 24 port switch that I would like to rack mount right under the patch panel but I just realized I can only mount things to the front of the rack currently. Is there a way to add a rear mounting rail? Can I just mount them to the front and have them facing the rear of the rack and cover them with blank plates on the theater side.
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post #2140 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 06:43 AM
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I have a MA ERK-4020 rack. I am trying to figure out if I can mount a patch panel to it. My rack faces into my theater and I just hooked up my 24 port switch that I would like to rack mount right under the patch panel but I just realized I can only mount things to the front of the rack currently. Is there a way to add a rear mounting rail? Can I just mount them to the front and have them facing the rear of the rack and cover them with blank plates on the theater side.
Looks like MA offers a rear rack rail kit for the ERK.

Might be cheaper to buy rackrail recessor brackets, and mount to the front.


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post #2141 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 06:57 AM
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Thanks. I am a complete N00B when it comes to racks so I want to do it right. Also. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the side of the rack to run the wires through so I can put a rear door on the rack possibly. Do they sell an insert that I could put into the hole to give it a finished grommet like finish?
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post #2142 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 07:01 AM
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Also where is the best place to buy plates and such for the money? I know I need rack ears for my Netgear switch and I'm sure I'll need some cable management rails to clean things up.
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post #2143 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 08:20 AM
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Also where is the best place to buy plates and such for the money? I know I need rack ears for my Netgear switch and I'm sure I'll need some cable management rails to clean things up.
I have some of the Monoprice blanks and their keystones, and have been happy with them.

My rack has holes in the back too, and I'm still struggling with the best way to manage it all!
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post #2144 of 2168 Old 07-03-2014, 08:46 AM
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If you want to using lacing bars, you're going to need rear rails.

That's a 20 inch deep rack? Pretty shallow.
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post #2145 of 2168 Old 07-04-2014, 11:01 PM
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What I personally found was that I was worried almost for nothing when it came to concerns about heat. My same size rack is essentially closed on both sides and the top as it sits in a nook in the wall that is open at the back to a room about 3x7 or so (open ceiling not finished). I'm running a full chasis HTPC, AVR, 3 large 1000 watt monoblocks and the room beyond handles the heat. I am also open at the front into the room mind you. My rack is essentially FULL. I can shoot you some pics, but the equipment room isn't nearly as finished as yours unfortunately. I sent you a few emails BTW. Still could use some serious help... this HTPC is evidently really set up well from Assassins, but I'm still struggling with it none the less. Nothing worse than being frustrated with your gear.


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Hey folks,

Do to some poor planning on my part (mostly related to hvac stuff), the ceiling height in my equipment room is about 10" lower than I had planned. It's still about 7'4, but it means that things are a bit cramped.

I want the rack up off the floor, so I built a platform for it. This provides some level of protection against minor flooding, but also allows me to dress up things a tad with some baseboard and moulding.

The result, however, is that I only have 2-3 inches of clearance above my MA Slim5 43u rack. Directly above the rack is a 22" x 6" custom vent boot which is connected to an inline Fantech exhaust fan which resides in another portion of the basement. The fan is controlled via a Cool Components thermostat with remote sensor which will sit near the top of the rack.

Some more background: the room is a dedicated equipment room and is 7' x 14'. I did also rough-in for a dedicated mini-split if it becomes required, but I'd rather avoid the expense for the time being.

My plan was to add a side panel to the right to dress it up a tad, but leave everything else open so that I can bring cables in easily via the side. I know this perhaps goes against best practices as suggested from people like Middle Atlantic, but I'm curious to know if anyone else has a similar setup and how they are coping with the heat?

I'll be doing a calculating shortly on the amount of BTU that I think the rack will generate.. that should be telling I was mindful when choosing gear of heat, so I've chosen Class-d amps where appropriate etc, but there will still be a fair bit of gear in the rack.. Control equipment for the automation system, distributed a/v sources, networking gear, a server or two, and then the theater gear.

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post #2146 of 2168 Old 07-07-2014, 09:32 PM
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Here's my rack :-)




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post #2147 of 2168 Old 07-07-2014, 09:49 PM
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Here's my rack :-)




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Sorry for the O/T...I see you have ooma connected. I have one due in tomorrow. What is your experience? Good/ bad /ugly?

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post #2148 of 2168 Old 07-07-2014, 09:53 PM
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Sorry for the O/T...I see you have ooma connected. I have one due in tomorrow. What is your experience? Good/ bad /ugly?
I love the Ooma phone system, lots of options, just make sure you look at every setting, and look at settings on the device itself via the Web UI. I actual pay for the premium service, never had an issue, very reliable.

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post #2149 of 2168 Old 07-08-2014, 11:09 AM
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Here is my rack. My amplifiers are on the other side of the wall so the only thing showing is the equipment I need to get to on a regular basis.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Theater rack 01.jpg (96.9 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Theater rack 02.jpg (99.7 KB, 69 views)
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post #2150 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 01:55 PM
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If you want to using lacing bars, you're going to need rear rails.

That's a 20 inch deep rack? Pretty shallow.
Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?
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post #2151 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 03:27 PM
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Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?
I'd use something less intense, something like a Drexel with a cutoff wheel
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post #2152 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 03:35 PM
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Got the rear rail kit off ebay. My rack is a 4020 the rack rear kit is a 44. Can I just cut the rails with a reciprocating saw to 40"? If not should I use a mitre saw?
A reciprocating saw works perfectly. The cut is not as nice as with a miter saw, but it doesn't have to be.
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post #2153 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 04:00 PM
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You'd be better off with a hacksaw, dremel or a cut-off wheel in a chop saw. Even a jig saw would be 'less worse' than using a reciprocating saw (aka Destroyz-all). Those damned things skip and wreck things way too easily. Great for hacking stuff apart but terrible for finish work.

As for cutting something down, it would depend on how the pieces are fit together. Most of the MA racks I've seen were welded. Not sure there's a straightforward way to reduce the height of one if that's the situation. I've seen other racks that were just bolted together. But some still had ends machined or fabricated in such a way as to not be easily reduced in height. Others would've been a simple matter of just lopping off some length and drilling new holes, perhaps tapping a few threads (with using cutting oil, of course).
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post #2154 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 04:13 PM
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post #2155 of 2168 Old 07-10-2014, 05:48 PM
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My tool of choice for cutting down (three thus far) racks, has been a four inch angle grinder.
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post #2156 of 2168 Old Yesterday, 08:35 AM
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My dad had a steel cutting chop saw we used. That thing cut it clean and nice! Now I just have to figure out how to lay this all out. Should my AVR be at the top so it has the most room to breath? My other components for now will be a DTV Genie DVR, and a Xbox One.
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post #2157 of 2168 Old Yesterday, 09:42 AM
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Rack convention is to put the hottest components on the top but that means the amps are up top and the things you need to access are on the bottom(BR player, AVR, etc).

Because of this I put the amps on the bottom and BR player, AVR, cable boxes etc up top. I actively cool my rack so its less of an issue though.

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post #2158 of 2168 Old Yesterday, 10:02 AM
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I like to put equipment that needs interaction (i.e. looking at displays, settings, loading media, etc.) at or around eye level. So by that standard the Bluray player gets good positioning, followed by the gaming system and AVR, in that order.
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post #2159 of 2168 Old Yesterday, 10:15 AM
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I, like TMcG, placed my according to access. In my case, it was more child access. My Battery backup was moved from the bottom to the top (I hate that it didn't have a child lock), then going down it's receiver, htpc, xbox, playstation, wii U, then 3 drawers. That way the kids can't mess with the stuff I don't want them messing with (mainly the receiver, battery backup/power conditioner and htpc)
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post #2160 of 2168 Old Yesterday, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
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I, like TMcG, placed my according to access. In my case, it was more child access. My Battery backup was moved from the bottom to the top (I hate that it didn't have a child lock), then going down it's receiver, htpc, xbox, playstation, wii U, then 3 drawers. That way the kids can't mess with the stuff I don't want them messing with (mainly the receiver, battery backup/power conditioner and htpc)
That seems somewhat counter productive and makes the things with the blinky lights and knobs even more desirable. I mean my 2 yr old grandson knows about using chairs and such to get to higher things but doesn't use that knowledge for bad or forbidden purposes. Good parenting seems to me a better alternative to deliberately making things inconvenient. Just my 2ยข...
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