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post #2221 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DG_ View Post
The only other option I have is to open up the wall from the opposite side, a closet. However it would be tight and the space in between goes to the attic, so I would now lose heat to the ambient temps of the attic.
If you cut it into the attic space you'd need to insulate the attic-facing side, just as you would any regular wall. Solid foam board works well for this, provided it's cut leaving VERY tight joints, which are then taped.

As for ventilation and fans, nothing says the fans have to be in the cabinet. Put them at the other end of a duct leading from the cabinet. Have them located in a place that is 'less problematic' for the noise. Just bear in mind ducts introduce airflow drag so the longer the ducting (or the turns in it) the greater the CFMs the fans may need to move.
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post #2222 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
I'd have been more inclined toward expanding that wall outward, rather than losing closet space. In that particular room it looks like it'd have been possible to do that without significantly impacting the way the space is used. I point this out because you've now got the most fragile part of the equipment (the wires & connectors) facing toward a space like to get coats and the like crammed in it. If not by you, by guests... I'd think about setting up a perforated back panel of some sort just to eliminate the issue entirely.

It wouldn't be as simple as what you did, just cutting a hole in an existing painted wall. Bumping it out would entail putting up the studs, bridging over the radiators, drywalling and painting. But it'd keep the closet space and potentially avoid being a resale issue in the future.
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post #2223 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 03:55 PM
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How would that be a resale issue? You pull it out, patch the drywall and throw up some paint. That's a lot easier than messing the registers.

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #2224 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 04:04 PM
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Seeing how there's no picture of how the radiator plumbing is running, I'm not sure I'd go making assumptions about it.

By bridging I meant boxing the wall such that nothing needed to be done to the radiator at that location. Not terribly complicated. Worst case it'd be a simple matter of trimming the end of the fascia panel back. The plumbing would remain in place, unmolested.

Sure, if you're prepared to rip it all out, drywall and repaint, that's "easy". (Not really)

From a resale perspective automation and wiring for AV gear is often a BIG detractor. To then add loss of the main closet off the entry door? Double trouble. Yes, it's a really clever idea and appears very nicely done. Posting the pictures was great too (so thanks for that!)

My advice to anyone else considering a similar setup remains that it's worth thinking about building out a space for something like this as opposed to cutting into an otherwise usable space.
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post #2225 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 05:21 PM
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I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.

Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in

Thanks!
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post #2226 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 05:52 PM
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PERFECT!!! I'm printing these off and showing my contractor. Thank you!

What did you use for shelving? I noticed the fronts of the shelving are routed for decoration?

What is the dimensions? LxWxD?
The height of the total enclosure would be whatever you want it to be. My inside width and depth of the shelf openings is 18". I'd go width 20" depth and a 19-20" width if you have the room. My Emotiva amps are 19 deep so I could say go 20" deep.

I had problems with the width in my setup as I wanted it centered on that wall. I couldn't go wider than the 18" inside dimension, as the sliding closet door would have hit the rack. It's a pretty tight fight as I don't have much room left or right. You can see the door jam almost hits the rack.

I used 3/4 birch from Lowes for the entire piece.

http://www.lowes.com/Search=birch+3/...t=birch+3%2F4#!

My shelf height openings are 5 1/2, 7 1/2, & 9 1/2. Ideally, if you're carpenter is more crafty than me, some adjustable shelves with pegs would make life easier in case you ever want to move them up or down a few inches. The only issue with pegs is all the holes look a bit ugly.

Give your components like your preamp/pro at least 1 1/2" inches of open air above them. Amps I would suggest a good 3 inches. Mine are Class A so they can run hot. I do have an exhaust fan wired in the closet into the attic but I never use it. I may have to in the summer if I crank those amps for several hours

The trim can be had at Home Depot or Lowes:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-...-583/100082924

The little corners are here:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-...5MDF/202087587

The front trim for the shelves is also fluted 3/4 trim I found at Home Depot. This isn't the eaxct width but it's like it in 3/4. There are lots of cool choices for trim, take a ride to the store and check them out:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DecraMold...0168/100390817

Hope this helps you. I think this setup looks less industrial and likely would be wife approved!
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Last edited by fmzip; 12-02-2014 at 06:13 PM.
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post #2227 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pburgh View Post
I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.

Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in

Thanks!

40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables
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post #2228 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables
Thanks

Maybe I could just climb inside the rack when I need to work on it? Haha
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post #2229 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pburgh View Post
Thanks

Maybe I could just climb inside the rack when I need to work on it? Haha
You could, that's DEEP!
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post #2230 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
From a resale perspective automation and wiring for AV gear is often a BIG detractor. To then add loss of the main closet off the entry door? Double trouble. Yes, it's a really clever idea and appears very nicely done. Posting the pictures was great too (so thanks for that!)

My advice to anyone else considering a similar setup remains that it's worth thinking about building out a space for something like this as opposed to cutting into an otherwise usable space.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I'd have been more inclined toward expanding that wall outward, rather than losing closet space. In that particular room it looks like it'd have been possible to do that without significantly impacting the way the space is used. I point this out because you've now got the most fragile part of the equipment (the wires & connectors) facing toward a space like to get coats and the like crammed in it. If not by you, by guests... I'd think about setting up a perforated back panel of some sort just to eliminate the issue entirely.

It wouldn't be as simple as what you did, just cutting a hole in an existing painted wall. Bumping it out would entail putting up the studs, bridging over the radiators, drywalling and painting. But it'd keep the closet space and potentially avoid being a resale issue in the future.

Depends if its a buyer from this forum

To the wind with resale value. If you plan to stay, make the home your home. Life is too short

My home is soooooo way over done inside and out, it will sell fast when the day comes 10 years from now. It used to be my grandmother's house so I got it 20 years ago for next to nothing. It's now a $300K home in a $180K neighborhood. There is way too many upgrades, the front closet won't be a deal breaker I am sure. But it's a very good point from a resale perspective. If done right, I doubt it's an issue. It's a built in shelf. 1/2 the closet could still be used. Not hard to bring it back to normal though, one piece of sheetrock and a 1/2 quart of paint.

I think potential home buyers would have a harder time looking past an industrial metal rack in the middle of the room than a painted wooden built in shelf that looks like it came with the house..

Also, bumping it out would have been more of PITA and would throw off the Fung Shway

P.S. The entire closet is for ME. Guest's can use the bedroom bed to pop a coat on it if need be. Our main entrance is through our basement, coats go in this room which is for my headphone rig:






We have no kids, 3 bedrooms and 4 closets just like the one I took over It's ALL about the audio!
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Last edited by fmzip; 12-02-2014 at 07:08 PM.
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post #2231 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:52 PM
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A+b=c ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by pburgh View Post
I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.

Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in

Thanks!
A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?
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post #2232 of 2241 Old 12-02-2014, 06:56 PM
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A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?
Great idea! I'll investigate this option. Thanks!
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post #2233 of 2241 Old 12-03-2014, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
40 deep would just be tough to wire. You'd have 2 plus feet from the back of your components to the back edge of the rack. Better have some LONG arms and cables
What? That's kinda nonsensical. You wire into where ever the gear is installed. Nothing says everything has to be at the back. Plenty of deeper racks have the side intermediate supports for wires, or accessories for such can be added easily.

What you DO need is to take movement into account. If you plan on being able to move the rack then make sure whatever wiring you connect has appropriate slack to accommodate the distances desired. But you generally should NOT plan on moving a rack with any regularity as wire can be brittle and break over time. Even with the support arms you still want to avoid flexing the same point of a cable over and over.

That and make sure you've got enough room for the whole base AND the wheels. Sometimes racks require just a "little more" when the wheels have to spin. Better ones don't as the wheels are usually fully recessed inside the outside dimensions.

A deeper rack can also allow for more gear. Some faces the front, others facing the back. That and rack shelving can be had that has an inset so anything the back could be recessed inward to keep all the connections flush with the back.

But it's been my experience that with a deep rack you really need more than just front access. Pull that much gear out, and all the wires connected to it, can be a problem. Sometimes a gift rack isn't worth the complications.
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post #2234 of 2241 Old 12-03-2014, 09:40 AM
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A 4" cheap 4" angle grinder perhaps?
Most better quality racks have a welded base or other parts of the frame. Thus a grinder won't help. If it's a cheaper rack that came knocked-down in a box then, maybe, but there's still likely to be some panels or other elements that won't line up.

Seems like it'd be better re-sold and the money put toward buying something with the desired dimensions.
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post #2235 of 2241 Old 12-03-2014, 10:48 AM
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I was speaking from personal experience there, having cut apart a wielded
steel rack with a 4" angle grinder.


Maybe not a project for everyone, but if that rack is to be fixed in place, then
it is a very viable option.


Those metal sides could even be replaced with plywood, and become DIY face
plate material.
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post #2236 of 2241 Old 12-04-2014, 03:53 PM
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My server rack is close to 40" deep - it has removable sides, and it's pretty easy to work in. Where it's located, I have access to the back, a side, and the front.

The depth allowed me to add a 3rd set of vertical rack rails, for oddball items and easier cable management.

But, I am eager to get rid of this behemoth - it fills most of this mechanical room. I will replace it with a 24" deep Middle Atlantic RCS/Essex.

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post #2237 of 2241 Old 12-04-2014, 05:29 PM
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I have a 24" slim5 Middle Atlantic rack and wouldn't mind if I had the 16" one instead. Mostly because the wires would look better with a smaller rack. It would also give me more room in my av closet. Not a super big deal though. I am happy with the 24" rack and it has served me well for the past 3 or 4 years.

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post #2238 of 2241 Old 12-05-2014, 01:21 AM
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My rack:
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post #2239 of 2241 Old Yesterday, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
I was going to go with a steel rack but decided it looks too industrial for my living room.

I decided t build my own instead.

Here's mine:



Great Set!

/ / / This is The Tower! / / /
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post #2240 of 2241 Old Yesterday, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Newshoundaussie View Post
<p>Just finished setup for 9.2  added wide fronts. One picture of it lit other new patch box added. <a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/395942/"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="395942" data-type="61" src="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/395942/width/500/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 667px"></a></p>
<p><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/395943/"><img alt="AppleMark" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="395943" data-type="61" src="http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/395943/width/500/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 667px"></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>up. </p>
Looking at your pics again. I like the junction boxes you used. I think the idea is great. I have made rack movable if needed to. But ive done that with extra line. So I'm thinking that I may need to do the same as you. It would make it easier to unplug from a box then to work around a mess of stretched out lines. the face looks great too. nice and clean. GOOD IDEA! Winter is here, boxing day around the corner and so I've got work to do!

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post #2241 of 2241 Old Today, 07:06 AM
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Looking at your pics again. I like the junction boxes you used. I think the idea is great.!
There's also rack mountable patch panels which don't force you into the tight quarters of a junction box.
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