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post #2251 of 2267 Old 01-10-2015, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Nice work, Pain!

I didn't realize you had a Lumagen. How do you like it?
Thank you sir! I love the lumagen. My favorite piece in my system.
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post #2252 of 2267 Old 01-10-2015, 09:03 PM
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These are the progressions of my audio racks in the passed nine years or so. I am working on the next one now.
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post #2253 of 2267 Old 01-10-2015, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post
Thank you sir! I love the lumagen. My favorite piece in my system.
Really? Is it that good? Does it address ghosting and motion jutter issues?
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post #2254 of 2267 Old 01-11-2015, 06:25 AM
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No, but the reason why I like it the most is because I can watch everything in scope and it is really quick to change between NLS, 2.35, and 16:9. Of course it has all of the video calibration options as well, but the scope thing is the reason why I bought it. A lot of people don't like to watch everything is scope, but I do and i never have to worry about masking.
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post #2255 of 2267 Old 01-25-2015, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkygod1 View Post
These are the progressions of my audio racks in the passed nine years or so. I am working on the next one now.
Very nice!
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post #2256 of 2267 Old 01-25-2015, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by pburgh View Post
I'm getting an HP 10642 Rack G2 (42U) from a friend, but I'm concerned about the depth at ~40". I have the room to build a closet for a 40" deep rack... but I'd like to know if there any gotchas with running something that deep? Most of my equipment is normal depth. I doubt anything will even reach half way in a 40" cabinet.

Total Cabinet Area 78.7 x 39.691 x 24 in

Thanks!
I had one. Couldn't wait to get rid of it. Way too much hassle to get to back of componenets
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post #2257 of 2267 Old 01-25-2015, 07:56 PM
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A Work in Progress...

Been following this thread for awhile, and I finally have my own creation to a point where I think its worth sharing. This started off as a useless closet at the very center of the house, which was about 4ft wide, but only 13in deep. I forgot to take a picture prior to demolition, but you can tells it was pretty stupid from the outlines in the picture.




I knew with all the gear I planned to cram into a relatively small space, heat would be an issue. This is a large kitchen exhaust fan that pipes the air through the attic, and out the roof. It will empty the air out of a 450sqft romm in 1.5 minutes



The foam board was just to give me a clean starting surface. It also helps seal out dust between the old wall planks, and will help keep noise from traveling through the walls



Structured wiring panels installed (maybe not preferred way, but space was tight). All the punch-out's on the left side feed into the rack closet 6" to the left



These panels will eventualy be covered by custom cabinet doors, so that they appear to be a built-in. The space to the far right will be a small counter top with storage above and below. You may not be able to see it, but the space goes back to the right an additional 13". The room this is located in will eventually be my new media room/small home theater



you can see that "dead space" a little better in this one. I'm going to get a custom granite counter top cut that extends back there. Should be enough space to tuck a coffee pot sized device out of the way. I'll do some kind of shelves above to maximize the limited space



Door on the left goes to the staircase landing, the door on the right hides the server rack. The panels are a mess at this point, as I had to quickly move everything over to keep the project moving. The bottom boxes are reserved for intercom, WHA drops, and an OMNI Pro.



Checking the final clearance of the slide out rack. If I had taken the picture from a higher vantage point, you would see it clears the top of the door frame by a meager 1/4"


Testing the slide function of the Royal Rack. It also turns 90 degrees fro access to the back of the equipment. This was the original plan, but as you will see in later pictures, I ended up adding a smaller door to the rear of the closet. I will only use the sliding base for major overhauls of the system now. I needed to use the sliding base instead of the casters option anyway to get the rack to a height lower than a door original to the house. You can see behind the rack that I installed filter grates to clean the air going into the closet. There is 1 one each side of the wall, each with a high-quality filter to slow down dust accumulation (recall the giant fan mentioned above lol)



The knockouts on the left of the wiring panels feed straight through the wall into the closet. Super easy to route wiring. That's 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits for the rack, and 2 15 amp circuits not shown. That metal bar is just some leftover shelf bracket that made for a good wire management solution.



This picture is from the staircase landing. I added an original, small closet door to the back of the closet for easier access to the back of the equipment. I installed a 1.5" PVC conduit through the wall from the top right media panel for the router. The router is dead center vertically and horizontally in the house



This is basically where i'm at right now, although I installed the stop strips and weather stripping around this door before posting this picture.



This is an older picture, but I'm proud that I managed to fit a KVM into an 18" deep rack


Here's a higher res of the rear rack
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post #2258 of 2267 Old 01-26-2015, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigo93bronco View Post


Here's a higher res of the rear rack
Nice job.

How are you cooling it all?

What are the white cables at bottom of this pic and what are they connecting. Looks like coax and RG-x patch panel
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post #2259 of 2267 Old 01-26-2015, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post
Nice job.

How are you cooling it all?

What are the white cables at bottom of this pic and what are they connecting. Looks like coax and RG-x patch panel
.

Thanks, I still have a lot of work to do, but at least it's to the point where you can see the general idea.

Cooling is handled by this. The closet doors are sealed tight, the only air that comes in goes through AC return vents (with filters) and through the tubes coming from the wiring panels (which also cools the equipment in the panels). This puppy will remove the air from a 450sqft room in 1.5 minutes


The white cables with yellow boots are short BNC patch cables I made to go from the patch panel to the CCTV DVR. That way if I ever want to move the DVR, I just make new patch cables, and don't need to mess with the main runs.
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post #2260 of 2267 Old 01-26-2015, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigo93bronco View Post
.

Thanks, I still have a lot of work to do, but at least it's to the point where you can see the general idea.

Cooling is handled by this. The closet doors are sealed tight, the only air that comes in goes through AC return vents (with filters) and through the tubes coming from the wiring panels (which also cools the equipment in the panels). This puppy will remove the air from a 450sqft room in 1.5 minutes


The white cables with yellow boots are short BNC patch cables I made to go from the patch panel to the CCTV DVR. That way if I ever want to move the DVR, I just make new patch cables, and don't need to mess with the main runs.
Thanks!
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post #2261 of 2267 Old 01-26-2015, 08:22 AM
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Here's one I did for a client. Small media room and whole house audio with some video distribution. The two ugly wires hanging free were Time Warner.. The rack was done and pretty and he came in later and did that. I don't understand how someone can do something ugly like that to a pretty rack. Some people have no professional respect...
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post #2262 of 2267 Unread Today, 08:42 AM
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** UPDATE **

Most recent update.

I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp. In addition, I have also implemented an alternate cooling approach for the big Sanways in my rack and a novel idea on monitoring their temps.

New Rack configuration:

1) Media Server display
2) HTPC display/IR
3) HTPC fanless case front
4) Xbox One
5) Bluray Player
6) HDDVD/Bluray Player
7) Denon AVR-4520ci
8) drawer
9) Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP
10) Sherbourn PA 7-350
11) Fan & Temp control for amps below
12) Sanway FP-14000
13) Sanway FP-10000Q
14) Turntable on extendable tray




Closer look of the fan speed & amp temps controller:



## DIY Rustic ConcreteBunker HT Build w/8 x 18" IB subs & 25KW ##

Denon AVR-4520 11.2 | Sony VPL-HW55ES | DaLite 11' screen | Sanway FP-14000 & FP-10000Q | Sherbourn PA 7-350 | Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP | GR Research LS-9 + LS-C | 8x IB318's | Buttkicker Original(2x), LFE(2x), MiniLFE(8x) | MinDSP 2x4 | 21'W x 27'L x 10'H | MiniSplit
Supercharged 10 second II
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I realize nobody uses a turntable much these days, but ugh, putting it that low to the floor's going to make it a hassle to use! I'd at least have considered putting it up under the drawer's location. Which, by the way, is a terrific addition to ANY rack.

Likewise, the screen would be handy to have at eye-level instead of at the top. If just to allow for the use of a touchscreen at some point.
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post #2264 of 2267 Unread Today, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rms8 View Post
** UPDATE **

Most recent update.

I was using 3 ButtKicker BKA-1000's to power both platforms and all the individual seat shakers. I have consolidated all those into a Sanway FP10000Q clone amp.
Can you give me some more details on the clone amps?
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post #2265 of 2267 Unread Today, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I realize nobody uses a turntable much these days, but ugh, putting it that low to the floor's going to make it a hassle to use! I'd at least have considered putting it up under the drawer's location.
I guess if I was in my golden years it would be a hassle but I'm not and it hasn't been a hassle thus far. I wanted all the CORE items to be in the center of the rack. The turntable is used infrequently and thus is relegated to the bottom.



Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Likewise, the screen would be handy to have at eye-level instead of at the top. If just to allow for the use of a touchscreen at some point.
The screen is there ONLY to act as a clock in the room, that's it. The screen saver for the server is an analog clock. When I have to perform any maintenance on the server I do it via remote login from my main PC.

I've had a LOT of time to determine form and function of my rack. In it's present configuration, it suites my current needs just right. If needs change I'll simply pull out the screwdriver and start moving things around.


## DIY Rustic ConcreteBunker HT Build w/8 x 18" IB subs & 25KW ##

Denon AVR-4520 11.2 | Sony VPL-HW55ES | DaLite 11' screen | Sanway FP-14000 & FP-10000Q | Sherbourn PA 7-350 | Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP | GR Research LS-9 + LS-C | 8x IB318's | Buttkicker Original(2x), LFE(2x), MiniLFE(8x) | MinDSP 2x4 | 21'W x 27'L x 10'H | MiniSplit
Supercharged 10 second II
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post #2266 of 2267 Unread Today, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_anderson_u View Post
Can you give me some more details on the clone amps?
Sure.

What did ya want to know? They are simply the BEST solution to anyone needing lots of power in a small package (2U) and a very low price (comparatively speaking).

These amps come directly from China. They are literal clones of other well known manufactures (go figure). In this case, Lab Grupen. The Lab origianls will set one back around $7k. An equivalent clone comes in a magnitude below that . Around $780.

If you use a 120VAC circuit, it will have to be upgraded to a 30A service. If you have to go to the trouble of upgrading the power to it (new wire/outlet/breaker), you may as well run 240VAC instead. This would require a 20A breaker vs. 30A.

You would only really need a clone if you need something which would require A LOT of watts. In my case, I have eight 18" subwoofers arranged in an Infinite Baffle. The FP14000 provides a total of 14,000 watts for these. My new FP10000 is a 4 channel amp with a total of 10,000watts total. I use this to power the ButtKicker shakers of various forms and locations.

The FP10000 which I recently ordered took about one week for delivery from China. Not bad at all.

The technical support (should you need it) is ABSOLUTELY BEYOND COMPARE !!!!! Sure it's all via email, but they give you specific solutions THAT WORK, not some BS list of routines to stall for time.

If you're in the market for a lot of watts, you should really consider them.


## DIY Rustic ConcreteBunker HT Build w/8 x 18" IB subs & 25KW ##

Denon AVR-4520 11.2 | Sony VPL-HW55ES | DaLite 11' screen | Sanway FP-14000 & FP-10000Q | Sherbourn PA 7-350 | Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP | GR Research LS-9 + LS-C | 8x IB318's | Buttkicker Original(2x), LFE(2x), MiniLFE(8x) | MinDSP 2x4 | 21'W x 27'L x 10'H | MiniSplit
Supercharged 10 second II
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post #2267 of 2267 Unread Today, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rms8 View Post
Sure.

What did ya want to know? They are simply the BEST solution to anyone needing lots of power in a small package (2U) and a very low price (comparatively speaking).

These amps come directly from China. They are literal clones of other well known manufactures (go figure). In this case, Lab Grupen. The Lab origianls will set one back around $7k. An equivalent clone comes in a magnitude below that . Around $780.

If you use a 120VAC circuit, it will have to be upgraded to a 30A service. If you have to go to the trouble of upgrading the power to it (new wire/outlet/breaker), you may as well run 240VAC instead. This would require a 20A breaker vs. 30A.

You would only really need a clone if you need something which would require A LOT of watts. In my case, I have eight 18" subwoofers arranged in an Infinite Baffle. The FP14000 provides a total of 14,000 watts for these. My new FP10000 is a 4 channel amp with a total of 10,000watts total. I use this to power the ButtKicker shakers of various forms and locations.

The FP10000 which I recently ordered took about one week for delivery from China. Not bad at all.

The technical support (should you need it) is ABSOLUTELY BEYOND COMPARE !!!!! Sure it's all via email, but they give you specific solutions THAT WORK, not some BS list of routines to stall for time.

If you're in the market for a lot of watts, you should really consider them.
Thanks!

That pretty much covers what I wanted to know
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