Show me your RACK - Page 78 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 89Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #2311 of 2338 Old 03-17-2015, 06:00 PM
Member
 
Sir Meili's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sunny Sebring, FL
Posts: 118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.
I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
Sir Meili is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2312 of 2338 Old 03-17-2015, 06:07 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Meili View Post
I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?
mercracing is offline  
post #2313 of 2338 Old 03-17-2015, 07:33 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Neurorad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Give a monkey a brain...
Posts: 5,293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Liked: 97
You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.

Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.
Neurorad is online now  
post #2314 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 05:42 AM
Member
 
Swancoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston
Posts: 132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked: 12
After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece

I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.
Swancoat is offline  
post #2315 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 06:40 AM
Member
 
Sir Meili's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sunny Sebring, FL
Posts: 118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?
It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.

Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.

I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)

My Home Theater Rack and Equipment room
Sir Meili is offline  
post #2316 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 06:50 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
kbarnes701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Main Listening Positon
Posts: 22,767
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4516 Post(s)
Liked: 3347
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.
It's a bad idea to have mains and signal cables running alongside each other. Are you sure it is impossible to avoid in your setup? Do you have some photos of the rack and the gear so others can give their ideas?

Here is the back of my rack and as you can see, the power cables run down the right side, the speaker cables and HDMI cables down the left side and the interconnects down the middle, as far as is possible. and at that time I was using no cable management hardware (since rectified).

taxman48 likes this.
kbarnes701 is online now  
post #2317 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 07:29 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Show me your RACK

I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one.

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426688930.010693.jpg
Views:	353
Size:	207.5 KB
ID:	610361

Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1426688950.404600.jpg
Views:	316
Size:	251.4 KB
ID:	610369

From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mercracing is offline  
post #2318 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 07:49 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
kbarnes701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Main Listening Positon
Posts: 22,767
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4516 Post(s)
Liked: 3347
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one.

Attachment 610361

Attachment 610369

From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking at the pictures I'd have thought it was possible to keep the power separate from the others, with some creative use of the lacing bars and cable routing. I made custom power cables for most of my gear, with the cable length the right length to route around the rack out of the way of the signal and speaker cables. It does take a little time, but the cost isn't much so it's worthwhile. In fact, in my cable box, I had pretty much all the cables I needed anyway - just had to modify the lengths bu shortening some.
kbarnes701 is online now  
post #2319 of 2338 Old 03-18-2015, 08:06 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 71
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 1
Most power cords are decent length. The main one is the short one. That's what I might try and lengthen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mercracing is offline  
post #2320 of 2338 Old 03-27-2015, 11:30 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 0
wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!
aeneas01 is offline  
post #2321 of 2338 Old 03-28-2015, 04:18 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
kbarnes701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Main Listening Positon
Posts: 22,767
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4516 Post(s)
Liked: 3347
Quote:
Originally Posted by aeneas01 View Post
wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!
Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.
kbarnes701 is online now  
post #2322 of 2338 Old 03-28-2015, 12:45 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 65
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.
yeah, having a couple of 150+ lb amps at the top of the rack is probably not the best idea!
aeneas01 is offline  
post #2323 of 2338 Old 04-20-2015, 09:55 AM
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 884
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked: 37
I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
Middle Atlantic ERK-4020

Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.
wraunch is offline  
post #2324 of 2338 Old 04-20-2015, 09:59 AM
AVS Special Member
 
TMcG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Meep meep
Posts: 3,301
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 721 Post(s)
Liked: 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post
I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
Middle Atlantic ERK-4020

Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.
Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.
TMcG is offline  
post #2325 of 2338 Old 04-20-2015, 10:44 AM
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 884
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked: 37
Do you have an example you could share? If so just PM it.
wraunch is offline  
post #2326 of 2338 Old 05-01-2015, 08:20 AM
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 884
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked: 37
Where is the best place to get anodized, brushed blanks? I need 3 4RU blanks.
wraunch is offline  
post #2327 of 2338 Old 05-07-2015, 03:57 PM
Member
 
Cokeswigga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Cokeswigga is online now  
post #2328 of 2338 Old 05-10-2015, 07:09 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.

This is a view of the partially wired rack:



Here's a partial view of the rear of the rack, fully wired with the speaker 'snake' etc:



This is a view of the fully wired rack shown more full-length:



And this is the front. I apologise for the less than stellar cellphone camera images:



The speaker snake goes to these junction boxes in the back of the gear closet (wired for Atmos 5.2.4):



Comments, criticisms, ideas welcomed.

Gear in the rack is, from top to bottom:
  1. Denon X5200W 9 channel Atmos AVR, used in preamp mode.
  2. miniDSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room correction unit.
  3. Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Front Height L&R on-ceiling speakers.
  4. Emotiva XPA-200 powering Surround L&R speakers.
  5. Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Top Middle L&R on-ceiling speakers.
  6. Emotiva XPA-3 powering LCR speakers.
  7. Oppo 103 BD player.
  8. Panasonic DMP 35 BD player.
  9. Toshiba HD-EP35 HD-DVD player.
  10. Humax HD Satellite TV box.
  11. Behringer Feedback Destroyer.

There are various fans on top of certain items of gear, operated by thermal switches. The AVR has ample clearance at the top and also has dual cooling fans operated by thermal switches.

Speaker cables run down the left side of the rack, interconnects broadly down the middle and power cables down the right side.
cubixx222 is offline  
post #2329 of 2338 Old 05-17-2015, 10:19 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
kbarnes701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Main Listening Positon
Posts: 22,767
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4516 Post(s)
Liked: 3347
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubixx222 View Post
Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you?
Hi - sorry for the delay in replying to you - I have been on vacation.

I bought the power strip from the place I bought my rack (I am in the UK). Most of the places that sell racks have an 'accessory' section where you will find things like power strips. Alternatively, google rack power strips and see what you can find. The strips are designed for standard rack mounting so you don't have to buy where you bought your rack unless you want to. They are a great way to neaten the power cabling side of your rack, as they bolt to the rack sides as you can see in my photos.
markrubin likes this.
kbarnes701 is online now  
post #2330 of 2338 Old 05-19-2015, 04:11 PM
Newbie
 
fins84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.
You may also find a RU tape measure a benefit when stacking/laying out your rack. You can find a Middle Atlantic Rack Ruler at Amazon, I'd post a link, however, I can't post links yet....
fins84 is offline  
post #2331 of 2338 Old 05-24-2015, 04:16 PM
Member
 
robertintemple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Liked: 51
Here's a rack I did recently. Not as pretty as I would have wanted but decent I think. Covers a theater room and distributed Audio and Video plus lighting and t-stats. All the signal/network wires run down the left side and all the power runs down the right. They never cross.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.24.31.jpg
Views:	175
Size:	155.4 KB
ID:	734634   Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.24.18.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	135.2 KB
ID:	734642   Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.35.33.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	142.2 KB
ID:	734650   Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.35.26.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	138.4 KB
ID:	734658   Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.35.21.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	134.6 KB
ID:	734666  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-10-20 13.24.38.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	171.7 KB
ID:	734674  
robertintemple is offline  
post #2332 of 2338 Old 06-06-2015, 02:44 PM
Member
 
Sheepdisease's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
I will tiddy up the wires when I get a chance.
cheers

Do you only use wireless controllers for the consoles? What would you do if you wanted to play a retro console like the N64 which requires wires?
Sheepdisease is offline  
post #2333 of 2338 Old Yesterday, 07:27 PM
Member
 
nonstopdoc1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 134
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this

http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tier....11738132.html

except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total
nonstopdoc1 is offline  
post #2334 of 2338 Old Yesterday, 07:31 PM
Member
 
nonstopdoc1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 134
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.

Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece

I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Meili View Post
It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.

Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.

I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)

My Home Theater Rack and Equipment room

How much offset do you recommend when it comes to lacing bar? What size do you use most?
nonstopdoc1 is offline  
post #2335 of 2338 Old Yesterday, 08:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Neurorad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Give a monkey a brain...
Posts: 5,293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Liked: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.

Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece

I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Meili View Post
It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.

Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.

I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)

My Home Theater Rack and Equipment room

How much offset do you recommend when it comes to lacing bar? What size do you use most?
It depends on how far your rear vertical rack rails are from the backs of each component. If it's a shallow rack, you may be able to use -0- offset for some or all.

Back when I bought my lacing bars, I could only find them in packs of 10 each. I think you can find singles now, though, saw some recently. Buy a few, see what you like, then buy more. Or, buy a ruler.

Not an exact science - it's mostly to keep things neat and look nice, do what you like.
Neurorad is online now  
post #2336 of 2338 Old Today, 03:05 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
kbarnes701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Main Listening Positon
Posts: 22,767
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4516 Post(s)
Liked: 3347
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this

http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tier....11738132.html

except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total
Proper racks have a lot of advantages. They allow you to install and remove gear easily since almost all gear is a standard width and a standard number of rack units high. You can install cooling which has been purpose designed ro racks. Pro gear, and quite a lot of non-Pro gear comes with rack mounting kits which enables you to save space between units (since no shelves are needed). Racks have power management and cable management incorporated in them which makes for a neater installation and also one where hum issues etc are minimised. I am sure others can think of other benefits too. And, of course, a proper rack looks really cool too, even if you only see it now and then when you go into the boot room.

There was also a special benefit of my rack in my situation: it has wheels so it can be pulled out of the gear closet easily which makes maintenance a snap. When the gear was on fixed shelves, similar to the link you posted, it was a nightmare to swap anything out or to get behind anything since there is no room in my closet to walk around to the back of the gear.

If you are sure you will never swap anything out or never change anything or need to get access to the gear easily and safely, then shelving of the sort you mentioned can be used successfully - but a proper rack will make life so much easier in the long run. When you consider the cost of a good rack it isn't much in the context of all you spend on your HT over the years - and the rack will literally last you for ever.

You can read about how I set up my rack here if you are interested.
kbarnes701 is online now  
post #2337 of 2338 Old Today, 03:31 AM
AVS Special Member
 
wkearney99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bethesda, MD USA
Posts: 1,582
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 175 Post(s)
Liked: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Whats the advantage of using middle Atlantic rack over something like this
http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-4-Tier....11738132.html
except looks? Especially if the rack is out of sight. This particluar one cost 60$ and has wt capacity of 350 lbs. per Shelf and 1,400 lbs. total
Space utilization is one thing, device accessibility is another. I've got a bunch of those wire shelves for storage. They good but they do lead to a problem with a lot of wasted space when items don't fully maximize the area. Boxes that are either too narrow/wide, tall/short or their depth become a problem. That and the wires don't lend themselves well to moving stuff around if it has feet on it.

Also consider you want the gear put in this rack to remain reliably set up. Not wedged in along with a lot of other junk being stored. Everything tucked into it's own rack can help avoid disasters like someone storing liquids on the shelving and having it spill down into expensive AV gear. Or cables getting disconnected because someone hung a coat hanger on it.
wkearney99 is online now  
post #2338 of 2338 Old Today, 04:27 AM
Advanced Member
 
rms8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern IL just west of Chitown
Posts: 771
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
....If you are sure you will never swap anything out or never change anything or need to get access to the gear easily and safely, then shelving of the sort you mentioned can be used successfully - but a proper rack will make life so much easier in the long run. When you consider the cost of a good rack it isn't much in the context of all you spend on your HT over the years - and the rack will literally last you for ever.
.



+1 --- Exactly what he said.

You could even get the inexpensive shelving as a temp solution until you find a great deal on craigslist !!!!



.

*DIY ConcreteBunker Rustic Dream Build w/11' screen, 11.2chnl, 8x18" IB subs, 28.8KW*
GR Research LS-9 + LS-C | Denon AVR-4520 11.2 | Sony VPL-HW55ES | DaLite 11' screen | Sanway FP-14000 & FP-10000Q | Sherbourn PA 7-350 | Behringer iNuke NU1000DSP | 8x IB318's | Buttkicker Original(2x), LFE(2x), MiniLFE(8x) | MinDSP 2x4 | 21'W x 27'L x 10'H | MiniSplit
April 2015 HToM <> SuperCharged 10 second II
rms8 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off