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post #2311 of 2330 Old 03-17-2015, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.
I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars.

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post #2312 of 2330 Old 03-17-2015, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sir Meili View Post
I ran mine on separate sides and only let them cross on the lacing bars.

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Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?
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post #2313 of 2330 Old 03-17-2015, 07:33 PM
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You can use 1-5 lacing bars per piece of equipment - depends on how obsessive and rich you are.

Most of my power cords come out of the back on 1 side. I chose that side to run power vertically, in the rack. All power cords run off to that side. I used 2 lacing bars when the power cord came off the other side, but you most probably won't notice any difference if power and LV share a lacing bar. I bought a few 10-packs of lacing bars, of different offsets, so I had plenty to go nuts.
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post #2314 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 05:42 AM
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After buying and populating a rack, I'm probably rich enough to spring for 5 lacing bars for each piece

I ended up going with 1 bar for most, 2 for the AVR. In some instances, yeah a power cord travels across the same bar as signal. So far, no issues though.
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post #2315 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Do you run one lacing bar per piece of equipment? Any pictures?
It depended on the piece of equipment. I have a deep rack that I have equipment on both sides. I've since created vertical lacing bars that go up each side in the middle of the rack that allow me to run lacing bars from the front to the back of the rack. Most of my cables now run up these "center" vertical lacing bars because of my equipment. The great thing about the Middle Atlantic Shelves is that they have cable management built in, so most of mine don't actually use lacing bars, but use that. For my Receiver I did at one point have 2-3 lacing bars feeding it, but I've changed that and just use the cable management on the self.

Either way, I would suggest, depeing on the amount of power, split your cables (at least analog audio cables). When facing the back of my receive I keep my A/V, Data, etc lines on teh left and run all my power on the right. Like I said they do have to cross at the device depending on the equipment.

I don't have too many great pictures, but you can check out my build thread for my equipment closet. There are some older pictures in there (I've redone the rack a few times since then...LOL)

My Home Theater Rack and Equipment room
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post #2316 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
Hey guys quick question while I am running my cables with the new lacing bars I got. I am aware you should try and run high voltage and low voltage separate. It would seem that nothing I have would work with this theory. Would I be hurting anything if I were to run power, HDMI, and ethernet all together? I am not a high end audio or video guy, I just have a normal(not too expensive) setup.
It's a bad idea to have mains and signal cables running alongside each other. Are you sure it is impossible to avoid in your setup? Do you have some photos of the rack and the gear so others can give their ideas?

Here is the back of my rack and as you can see, the power cables run down the right side, the speaker cables and HDMI cables down the left side and the interconnects down the middle, as far as is possible. and at that time I was using no cable management hardware (since rectified).

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post #2317 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 07:29 AM
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Show me your RACK

I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one.

Click image for larger version

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From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360.

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post #2318 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercracing View Post
I only have two crapy iPhone pictures. Please remember this is temporary. I will prolly buy two more lacing bars so I have one per equipment. The main power cord to the power conditioner is very short. I was thinking about taking it apart some day and replacing the whole power cable with a longer one.

Attachment 610361

Attachment 610369

From the top down. OTA cable box, modem, and wireless on top. Power conditioner. Receiver. Switch. Bluray. Xbox 360.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking at the pictures I'd have thought it was possible to keep the power separate from the others, with some creative use of the lacing bars and cable routing. I made custom power cables for most of my gear, with the cable length the right length to route around the rack out of the way of the signal and speaker cables. It does take a little time, but the cost isn't much so it's worthwhile. In fact, in my cable box, I had pretty much all the cables I needed anyway - just had to modify the lengths bu shortening some.
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post #2319 of 2330 Old 03-18-2015, 08:06 AM
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Most power cords are decent length. The main one is the short one. That's what I might try and lengthen.


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post #2320 of 2330 Old 03-27-2015, 11:30 PM
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wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!
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post #2321 of 2330 Old 03-28-2015, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by aeneas01 View Post
wow, great thread, and great equipment rack setups. one thing i noticed tho, it seems that more than a few setups have amps at the bottom of the rack rather than the top, i was always under the impression that it was best for amps to be at he very top with an amp exhaust fan above them given the heat they produce? anyway, great stuff!
Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.
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post #2322 of 2330 Old 03-28-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
Amps are usually very heavy. Putting them at the top will unbalance the rack and possibly make it dangerous, especially if it is moved. Putting all the weight at the bottom lowers the center of gravity and makes the rack much more stable. With proper management of airflow, and maybe the use of cooling solutions, the heat shouldn’t be a major concern.
yeah, having a couple of 150+ lb amps at the top of the rack is probably not the best idea!
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post #2323 of 2330 Old 04-20-2015, 09:55 AM
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I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
Middle Atlantic ERK-4020

Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.
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post #2324 of 2330 Old 04-20-2015, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post
I need some help laying out my rack better. I have some shelves in my rack and I want to add a drawer and a bunch of blanks and vent panels. I don't know how to count RUs but I have the following currently:
Middle Atlantic ERK-4020

Equipment: Onkyo AVR on a shelf that takes up 5 1/4", Xbox One on shelf 5 1/4", Directv DVR 3 1/2", Roku 3 1 3/4", the rest is empty. I know I want to add a 4RU drawer for dvd storage/game controllers and I'll also need space for my kids Disney infinity stuff.
Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.
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post #2325 of 2330 Old 04-20-2015, 10:44 AM
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Do you have an example you could share? If so just PM it.
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post #2326 of 2330 Old 05-01-2015, 08:20 AM
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Where is the best place to get anodized, brushed blanks? I need 3 4RU blanks.
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post #2327 of 2330 Old 05-07-2015, 03:57 PM
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post #2328 of 2330 Old 05-10-2015, 07:09 PM
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Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post
New to the rack game, so this is my first rack. It is on wheels to enable me to pull it from the small closet which houses my HT gear for maintenance, changes etc.

This is a view of the partially wired rack:



Here's a partial view of the rear of the rack, fully wired with the speaker 'snake' etc:



This is a view of the fully wired rack shown more full-length:



And this is the front. I apologise for the less than stellar cellphone camera images:



The speaker snake goes to these junction boxes in the back of the gear closet (wired for Atmos 5.2.4):



Comments, criticisms, ideas welcomed.

Gear in the rack is, from top to bottom:
  1. Denon X5200W 9 channel Atmos AVR, used in preamp mode.
  2. miniDSP DDRC-88A Dirac Live room correction unit.
  3. Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Front Height L&R on-ceiling speakers.
  4. Emotiva XPA-200 powering Surround L&R speakers.
  5. Emotiva UPA-2 powering Atmos Top Middle L&R on-ceiling speakers.
  6. Emotiva XPA-3 powering LCR speakers.
  7. Oppo 103 BD player.
  8. Panasonic DMP 35 BD player.
  9. Toshiba HD-EP35 HD-DVD player.
  10. Humax HD Satellite TV box.
  11. Behringer Feedback Destroyer.

There are various fans on top of certain items of gear, operated by thermal switches. The AVR has ample clearance at the top and also has dual cooling fans operated by thermal switches.

Speaker cables run down the left side of the rack, interconnects broadly down the middle and power cables down the right side.
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post #2329 of 2330 Old 05-17-2015, 10:19 AM
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Kbarnes701 great wiring. Could I ask where you purchased that power strip and how it is connected. I have a small rack under the stairs and hopefully one day intend to purchase a mid Atlantic when funds allow. Where in the UK are you?
Hi - sorry for the delay in replying to you - I have been on vacation.

I bought the power strip from the place I bought my rack (I am in the UK). Most of the places that sell racks have an 'accessory' section where you will find things like power strips. Alternatively, google rack power strips and see what you can find. The strips are designed for standard rack mounting so you don't have to buy where you bought your rack unless you want to. They are a great way to neaten the power cabling side of your rack, as they bolt to the rack sides as you can see in my photos.
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post #2330 of 2330 Unread Today, 04:11 PM
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Every RU is precisely 1.75". I normally use a very quick Excel spreadsheet to lay everything out vs. the Rack Tools software on Middle Atlantic's website.
You may also find a RU tape measure a benefit when stacking/laying out your rack. You can find a Middle Atlantic Rack Ruler at Amazon, I'd post a link, however, I can't post links yet....
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