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post #2551 of 2602 Old 01-16-2016, 09:40 AM
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This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen
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post #2552 of 2602 Old 01-16-2016, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams97 View Post
This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen
Beautifully wired.
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post #2553 of 2602 Old 01-16-2016, 08:44 PM
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Great job williams97!
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post #2554 of 2602 Old 01-17-2016, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams97 View Post
This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen
People who do beautiful wiring like this are the reason why I don't post photos of the back of my rack unit! Hahaha! Nice job!
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post #2555 of 2602 Old 01-17-2016, 09:49 PM
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Nice job, but so you really want to see all those blue lights when you're watching a movie?
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post #2556 of 2602 Old 02-03-2016, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
Pics or it didn't happen...just sayin.
^^^Just arrived about half an hour ago.

Here is a teaser photo until I have more time.

ATI AT4006 second shelf from bottom and AT6005 on the bottom shelf.

http://

Klipsch: 5 RF-7 IIs (center, front mains & side surrounds), 6 RB-81 IIs (front-wide, height & rear surrounds), 4 R-115SW subs. Power Sound Audio: 2 V3600i dual 18" subs. ATI amplifiers: AT6005 & AT4006 Morris Kessler Signature series. Denon: AVR-X5200W. Belden: 10 AWG copper speaker wire. Sewell Direct Deadbolt banana plugs. SVS: sub interconnects. Blue Jeans Cables: interconnects. Mediabridge: Ultra series HDMI, Mid Atlantic: RCS-27U rack w/fans. Epson: 5030UBe projector. Elite: 125" AT screen.
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post #2557 of 2602 Old 02-03-2016, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams97 View Post
This is my contribution. Photos show what I started with an the stages of construction. Not shown is the 120 " screen
Jesus thats some thick speaker wire, and rca's! What brand is it?

(R&L: Infinity Beta 50) (Center: Infinity Beta C360) (Surround side & Back: Infinity IW ERS 210 x 4) (TM: Infinity ERS 110 x 2) (Sub: Def Tech SC1)
(7.1.2 Config.) (AVR: Denon 4100) (Audiosource Amp 110 for TM's) (BRP: Pioneer 80FD) (Display: Panasonic TC-P65S1)
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post #2558 of 2602 Old 02-04-2016, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MalevolentHamster View Post
Nice job, but so you really want to see all those blue lights when you're watching a movie?
http://www.lightdims.com/

They work!
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post #2559 of 2602 Old 02-04-2016, 03:01 PM
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My updated rack (new equipment) This is pulled out of my closet makes for easy management!
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Spoiler!
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post #2560 of 2602 Old 02-04-2016, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonycpa2004 View Post
^^^Just arrived about half an hour ago.

Here is a teaser photo until I have more time.

ATI AT4006 second shelf from bottom and AT6005 on the bottom shelf.

http://
Here's a couple more photos with the logo on/off. Both amps come with optional rack ears. So, you can mount the amp without rack ears and the amp simply rests on the heavy duty shelf behind the vertical bars inside the AV rack or with rack ears and the amp still rests on the heavy duty shelf but the is now forward more so the ears are in front of the vertical bars inside the AV rack which gives you more clearance in the back in case you want to keep the rear of the rack enclosure on (so no wires show).

ATI AT6005 (300W RMS X 5 channels driven) with logo on


ATI AT6005 (300W RMS X 5 channels driven) with logo off


ATI AT4006 (200W RMS X 6 channels driven) with logo on


ATI AT4006 (200W RMS X 6 channels driven) with logo off


I love the Middle Atlantic rack. Thanks to everyone that recommended MA over the Sanus option!

Hope everyone enjoys the Superbowl this weekend.

Klipsch: 5 RF-7 IIs (center, front mains & side surrounds), 6 RB-81 IIs (front-wide, height & rear surrounds), 4 R-115SW subs. Power Sound Audio: 2 V3600i dual 18" subs. ATI amplifiers: AT6005 & AT4006 Morris Kessler Signature series. Denon: AVR-X5200W. Belden: 10 AWG copper speaker wire. Sewell Direct Deadbolt banana plugs. SVS: sub interconnects. Blue Jeans Cables: interconnects. Mediabridge: Ultra series HDMI, Mid Atlantic: RCS-27U rack w/fans. Epson: 5030UBe projector. Elite: 125" AT screen.
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post #2561 of 2602 Old 02-14-2016, 07:09 PM
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Racking for newbs!

Hey guys - I'm getting ready to start building my first rack for a new dedicated room I've been working on. The rack will be in a separate adjacent room from the theater. I have a few general questions please:

1. What's a good amount of excess wire to leave at the rack? Too little will limit my ability to place the rack a little this way or that way and/or to pull it out to get behind it. Too much will wind up with gobs of rolled and tied wire at the rack which will be tremendously bulky and in the way, especially with the 12/4 speaker wire I'm using and 15 speakers plus 4 subs. I could leave excess in the unfinished joists in the room where the rack is, but that too will get quickly unwieldy with 21 wires rolled up to store an excess X feet in the joists...

2. I'm not sure exactly where in the 43RU rack I'll have the amps, but probably about 1/3 of the way up, with the power isolation transformer taking up several RU on the bottom. Do folks typically run the speaker wires to the floor, then back up to the amp? Or straight down to the amp without passing it. Again this brings up questions like #1 above where I'm trying to figure out how to leave slack for easy maintenance or reordering of equipment in the rack in the future.

3. I have no clue about techniques for racking, routing the wires into the rack, ganging wires and cable management in general. Are there any resources, manuals, videos etc that you know of that would be a good primer? I am planning to use the Middle Atlantic BGR series rack which has come highly recommended to me.

Thanks!
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post #2562 of 2602 Old 02-14-2016, 07:36 PM
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I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.

This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...read.cgi?19075

For me, lacing bars make a big difference.
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post #2563 of 2602 Old 02-15-2016, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.

This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...read.cgi?19075

For me, lacing bars make a big difference.
+1 on lacing bars

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post #2564 of 2602 Old 02-15-2016, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
I would coil up all the excess cables in the ceiling joists, out of sight. Make it fit.

This has been linked previously in this thread, but I learned a lot from it. http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...read.cgi?19075

For me, lacing bars make a big difference.
Thanks. I will check out the thread. Leaving the slack in the ceiling joists would be "OK" for future needs such as if I needed to relocate the rack a bit. However it wouldn't be conducive to pulling out the rack to work on the back of it...

I'm leaving about 10 extra feet of wire at the rack. I see all these beautifully wired racks where there is a main trunk line with a dozen+ speaker wires nicely tied that comes down the ceiling and then turns toward the rack and branches off one line at a time into the amplifier. But alas where is the slack?? Doesn't look like that type of wiring job leaves room to pull the rack forward (my will be on wheels). I certainly don't want to leave the slack in a roll on the floor...

Here's an idea - maybe I will curl it up in a bundle put it on a hook on the back wall (like a garden hose) a foot behind the rack and then run it into the rack from there. This way when I need to pull the rack out I can remove the coil from the wall, then when I'm done just place the excess coil back on the hook.... Sound reasonable?
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post #2565 of 2602 Old 02-16-2016, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Thanks. I will check out the thread. Leaving the slack in the ceiling joists would be "OK" for future needs such as if I needed to relocate the rack a bit. However it wouldn't be conducive to pulling out the rack to work on the back of it...

I'm leaving about 10 extra feet of wire at the rack. I see all these beautifully wired racks where there is a main trunk line with a dozen+ speaker wires nicely tied that comes down the ceiling and then turns toward the rack and branches off one line at a time into the amplifier. But alas where is the slack?? Doesn't look like that type of wiring job leaves room to pull the rack forward (my will be on wheels). I certainly don't want to leave the slack in a roll on the floor...

Here's an idea - maybe I will curl it up in a bundle put it on a hook on the back wall (like a garden hose) a foot behind the rack and then run it into the rack from there. This way when I need to pull the rack out I can remove the coil from the wall, then when I'm done just place the excess coil back on the hook.... Sound reasonable?
Two different reasons to leave extra cable - to pull out the rack, and for future uses (moving components around). The future use 'service loops' get stuffed in the ceiling or wall (recessed low voltage enclosure/structured cabinet could be used, with a cover).

For moving the rack, you need to manage the single bundle (or multiple bundles) of cables running from the ceiling or wall to the rack. You could coil the extra cable on the top of the rack, or use the first few rack spaces. Or, the bundle hangs low (from the ceiling down to the floor), and enters the rack higher.

If coming into the rack from the wall, you can use a bungee cord (or tool/spring balancer) hanging from the top back of the rack to hang onto the middle of the cable bundle. Or, as you suggested, keep it simple and just hang the coil on a hook behind the rack.

Couple other related threads for you to consider:
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/2...tion/?p=207071
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...read.cgi?37456

You could go nuts obsessing over details that few people (if any) would ever notice. Skip the rabbit hole, and just coil the extra at/near the top of the rack, if coming in from the ceiling. Bungee to the middle of the cable bundle if coming in from low on the wall. But, I would keep the service loops (extra cable for future use) when you can.

----------------------------------------------
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post #2566 of 2602 Old 02-27-2016, 12:06 PM
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Finally got a breather now that busy season is over and decided to post a few updates of the MA RCS-2724 and some of the benefits of using an AV rack instead of a TV stand...


I replaced my RC-64 II center speaker with an RF-7 II for the center channel. I replaced all speaker wire with Belden 10 gauge AWG 99.99% oxygen free multi-stranded speaker wire with Sewell Direct deadbolt banana plugs on both ends.







I stacked the four Klipsch R-115SW subs in the front of the room. So, they are all corner loaded in the front of the room (while the PSA V3600i dual 18" subs remain corner loaded in the back of the room). All 6 subs are hooked up using SVS Soundpath interconnects.





I got rid of the TV stand and replaced it with a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-2724 rack with fans. It is placed in the back of the room to: a) eliminate distracting lights in the front of the room, b) remove all wires, clutter and audio equipment from under the screen and c) allow all HDMI connections to decrease from 50' to under 5' (since the Epson projector is in the back of the room). The Denon AVR-X5200W is now connected to my Asus router using Vandesail CAT 7 high-speed twisted pair copper wires. The Optimum cable box and Modem are connected to the wall using Mediabridge Ultra series coaxial cables. The PS4, Amazon FireTV, Optimum cable box and Epson projector are connected to the Denon using Mediabridge Ultra Series HDMI cables.

I had an electrician re-wire the room for a 200amp meter upgrade panel and 5 dedicated 20amp circuits (1 for each of my PSA V3600i subs, 2 for my ATI AT6005 amp and 1 for my ATI AT4006 amp). Both of my Morris Kessler Signature Series amps are placed on heavy duty telescopic shelves.




I used a variety of cable management solutions in the room including: a) Legrand cable raceways, b) split loom tubing, c) Velcro one-wrap thin self-gripping cable ties and d) Gaffer Power professional premium grade tape. I also built a custom platform in front of the main entrance to the room, so all wires coming from the left side of the room to the AV rack would remain separated and hidden. I used Velcro industrial strength strips to secure the platform to the floor to provide cushioning and to allow the platform to easily be lifted in case I need to access the wires in the future.



Much more still to come including: 1) room acoustics, 2) audio calibration using Audyssey and manual adjustments and 3) video calibration. As previously mentioned a few room acoustic basics already incorporated in the room include: a) recliners are placed equidistant between the side walls, several feet from the rear wall and equal distance from the screen to the front main speakers, b) window is covered by thermal insulated blackout curtain to contain all light and prevent sound from reflecting off the glass, c) rug to absorb and prevent reflections from the floor, d) 5' tall bookshelves on both side walls, e) the use of Audyssey room correction software, etc etc.

Today, I will be wrapping Auralex acoustics ISO Series MoPad-XL monitor acoustic isolation pads in black (I don't know why they only make them in grey). These pads will angle all 6 RB-81 II bookshelf speakers downward toward the listening position as well as improve the sound by decreasing resonance.

Klipsch: 5 RF-7 IIs (center, front mains & side surrounds), 6 RB-81 IIs (front-wide, height & rear surrounds), 4 R-115SW subs. Power Sound Audio: 2 V3600i dual 18" subs. ATI amplifiers: AT6005 & AT4006 Morris Kessler Signature series. Denon: AVR-X5200W. Belden: 10 AWG copper speaker wire. Sewell Direct Deadbolt banana plugs. SVS: sub interconnects. Blue Jeans Cables: interconnects. Mediabridge: Ultra series HDMI, Mid Atlantic: RCS-27U rack w/fans. Epson: 5030UBe projector. Elite: 125" AT screen.

Last edited by Tonycpa2004; 02-27-2016 at 12:40 PM.
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post #2567 of 2602 Old 02-27-2016, 12:37 PM
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Here is mine:
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post #2568 of 2602 Old 02-27-2016, 06:10 PM
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I was approached by a client due to the previous installer just not caring. Their rack was a nightmare and things were constantly failing due to the mess. There is a satellite box just sitting on top of the rack. I offered to clean things up and upgrade some of the older equipment.

Here's what I was given:







Yeah, file that under How Not To Manage Wiring In A Rack. It was never done right in the first place and then additions/service calls added wire without taking any of the bad wire out. There were interconnects in there not connected to anything. Whenever the rack was moved things would stop working around the house.

Step one for me was to pull every single wire out of the rack and take all the equipment out to start with a bare rack. Equipment was racked logically and vent plates and blanks were installed for aesthetics (it's an open rack so airflow isn't an issue).

Here's what I ended up with:





Needless to say the customer is VERY happy and now wants the rest of the house upgraded, including a dedicated theater room. Needless to say I'M VERY happy. :-)
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post #2569 of 2602 Old 02-28-2016, 05:32 AM
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I'd be tempted to use some D-rings or J-hooks on the wall next to the wire bundles to provide a bit of strain relief. Bolt the straight into the stud. Then rest the bundle through one of those and put a velcro strap around it to help carry the load (and keep it off the connectors).

This right here is the real win:
Quote:
Needless to say the customer is VERY happy and now wants the rest of the house upgraded, including a dedicated theater room. Needless to say I'M VERY happy. :-)
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post #2570 of 2602 Old 03-04-2016, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
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Here are a couple:





Can I try out those racks for 30 days trial period?
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post #2571 of 2602 Old 03-04-2016, 09:53 AM
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The beginning of my budget friendly setup. Biggest thing is the shelving are a tad to small so I have to load my equipment from the side which isn't the most ideal but gets me by. If i manage everything correctly then I can have the inside rack all equip and then add casters to the 2nd so i can roll to the side if i need to pull something out. If i went to the next size shelving, it would of been too wide and i wouldn't be able to access the back side.

Good for air movement and should be able to come up with some decent cable management.









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-----------------------------------------------
Chase "Fetch"

Old Theater Build

New House Build

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post #2572 of 2602 Old 03-05-2016, 05:55 PM
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Obviously, the rear of my h.t. rack is NOT a work of art like some on this forum. That said, I chose to invest my time and energy on what counts the most . . . the quality of the experience. My theater has surpassed all initial goals and is just a great place for my family and I to be.

Also, it invokes the fight or flight response when at reference which is a necessary feature.
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post #2573 of 2602 Old 03-05-2016, 06:30 PM
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Ok, I'll play I just finished my theater and had some high quality pics taken of everything. Racks are always in a state of being upgraded but here are mine, at least for the time being..... Cheers everyone.



Four Bryston amps with 12 channels of amplification and one Parasound amp with 5 channels






Kaleidescape Premier system, Torus Power, Panamax UPS, Control4, Marantz (to be upgraded to likely Trinnov Altitude), Pakedge, Oppo and more...



Here is the entrance to my theater: gasket sealed, solid double mahogany doors. Final photos just uploaded at my link below if anyone cares to see it... Have a great day all

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post #2574 of 2602 Old 03-07-2016, 10:50 AM
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Some great pics here - I'm working on my first rack which is a MA BGR 41U. All runs (network/video/WHA/etc.) in the home will feed into the rack.


On the network side, I have about 50 runs of Cat 6 coming into the rack from the top which will terminate to a patch panel that is on the front/top of the rack. Does anyone have any pictures of the backside, coming into the patch panel?


My general plan is to use 1 or 2 KO's at the top of the rack and run the main "bundle" of cables on the top/high side of the rack (one side only) and then terminate. I know this should be pretty simple, but wanted to see how the pros were doing this (or any suggestions)? Another thought would be to split the bundle (say, 25 on the left, 25 on the right) and then terminate in - but was also considering keeping the network drops on one side of the rack and power on the other. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
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post #2575 of 2602 Old 03-07-2016, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIFIJIM70 View Post
Obviously, the rear of my h.t. rack is NOT a work of art like some on this forum. That said, I chose to invest my time and energy on what counts the most . . . the quality of the experience. My theater has surpassed all initial goals and is just a great place for my family and I to be.

Also, it invokes the fight or flight response when at reference which is a necessary feature.
12ga Romex for speaker wire!

Here's somebody that gets it! When it comes to speakers, plain old copper wire is all you need!

Personally I used generic 14/12/10ga stranded speaker wire from Parts Express and Monoprice, but the same idea - basic old copper wire that is thick enough for the current demands and length loss.
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post #2576 of 2602 Old 03-07-2016, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgrinch View Post
Some great pics here - I'm working on my first rack which is a MA BGR 41U. All runs (network/video/WHA/etc.) in the home will feed into the rack.


On the network side, I have about 50 runs of Cat 6 coming into the rack from the top which will terminate to a patch panel that is on the front/top of the rack. Does anyone have any pictures of the backside, coming into the patch panel?


My general plan is to use 1 or 2 KO's at the top of the rack and run the main "bundle" of cables on the top/high side of the rack (one side only) and then terminate. I know this should be pretty simple, but wanted to see how the pros were doing this (or any suggestions)? Another thought would be to split the bundle (say, 25 on the left, 25 on the right) and then terminate in - but was also considering keeping the network drops on one side of the rack and power on the other. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I am at that stage right now too and eagerly await some insight.

-----------------------------------------------
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Old Theater Build

New House Build
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post #2577 of 2602 Old 03-07-2016, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonycpa2004 View Post
Finally got a breather now that busy season is over and decided to post a few updates of the MA RCS-2724 and some of the benefits of using an AV rack instead of a TV stand...


I replaced my RC-64 II center speaker with an RF-7 II for the center channel. I replaced all speaker wire with Belden 10 gauge AWG 99.99% oxygen free multi-stranded speaker wire with Sewell Direct deadbolt banana plugs on both ends.

I stacked the four Klipsch R-115SW subs in the front of the room. So, they are all corner loaded in the front of the room (while the PSA V3600i dual 18" subs remain corner loaded in the back of the room). All 6 subs are hooked up using SVS Soundpath interconnects.


I got rid of the TV stand and replaced it with a Middle Atlantic Essex RCS-2724 rack with fans. It is placed in the back of the room to: a) eliminate distracting lights in the front of the room, b) remove all wires, clutter and audio equipment from under the screen and c) allow all HDMI connections to decrease from 50' to under 5' (since the Epson projector is in the back of the room). The Denon AVR-X5200W is now connected to my Asus router using Vandesail CAT 7 high-speed twisted pair copper wires. The Optimum cable box and Modem are connected to the wall using Mediabridge Ultra series coaxial cables. The PS4, Amazon FireTV, Optimum cable box and Epson projector are connected to the Denon using Mediabridge Ultra Series HDMI cables.[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

I had an electrician re-wire the room for a 200amp meter upgrade panel and 5 dedicated 20amp circuits (1 for each of my PSA V3600i subs, 2 for my ATI AT6005 amp and 1 for my ATI AT4006 amp). Both of my Morris Kessler Signature Series amps are placed on heavy duty telescopic shelves.

I used a variety of cable management solutions in the room including: a) Legrand cable raceways, b) split loom tubing, c) Velcro one-wrap thin self-gripping cable ties and d) Gaffer Power professional premium grade tape. I also built a custom platform in front of the main entrance to the room, so all wires coming from the left side of the room to the AV rack would remain separated and hidden. I used Velcro industrial strength strips to secure the platform to the floor to provide cushioning and to allow the platform to easily be lifted in case I need to access the wires in the future.

Much more still to come including: 1) room acoustics, 2) audio calibration using Audyssey and manual adjustments and 3) video calibration. As previously mentioned a few room acoustic basics already incorporated in the room include: a) recliners are placed equidistant between the side walls, several feet from the rear wall and equal distance from the screen to the front main speakers, b) window is covered by thermal insulated blackout curtain to contain all light and prevent sound from reflecting off the glass, c) rug to absorb and prevent reflections from the floor, d) 5' tall bookshelves on both side walls, e) the use of Audyssey room correction software, etc etc.

Today, I will be wrapping Auralex acoustics ISO Series MoPad-XL monitor acoustic isolation pads in black (I don't know why they only make them in grey). These pads will angle all 6 RB-81 II bookshelf speakers downward toward the listening position as well as improve the sound by decreasing resonance.

I just have to ask. Are we also using the Raspberry Sparkletini as sound absorption material?

Remember, no matter where you go... You're not where you were anymore.
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post #2578 of 2602 Old 03-19-2016, 12:00 AM
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This is my rack video, was recommended i post it here for others!


The Theater:
TV : Panasonic 60VT60Receiver : Marantz AV8802AAmp : Marantz MM8077Power Center : Panamax M7500 ProBluray : Oppo 103Gaming : N64Front L & R : Def Tech BP8080STCenter : Def Tech CS8080HDSurround BL & BR : SR8080BPSurround L & R : BP8060STSubwoofer : 2 x Rythmik Audio F15HP
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post #2579 of 2602 Old 03-19-2016, 09:37 AM
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Hi Just wondering what people think would be the best option for me and what I would need to get it done. This is my first house im building and i want to get it right because Im planning to live in it a long time. Also do you think i will beable to get the seats in with options C and D.
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post #2580 of 2602 Old 03-19-2016, 12:13 PM
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