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post #2701 of 2793 Old 10-02-2016, 08:04 AM
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DIY Lacing Bars

Though I would share this from my build thread, as this thread inspired me for this idea

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
I love my rack but one of the things with a two post rack is the cable management out the back..... lacing bars are not an option
So I came up with a simple / cheap solution using heavy gauge wire that I had kicking around, a little black paint and Velcro straps

Really happy with how they turned out and I will probably make more as I get more organized
If anyone has suggestions to make them even better I'm interested....




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post #2702 of 2793 Old 10-02-2016, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Though I would share this from my build thread, as this thread inspired me for this idea
Simple idea but very neat and tidy.

Excellent

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post #2703 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 12:04 AM
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This thread is great! Using a totally cheap option right now (it was only $5...) but would like to upgrade in the future. I have this tucked in a closet in the Fun Room.


Few things have changed since this photo, like moving the surge protector to the side of the rack instead of at the back, and adding the wireless router to one of the shelves. I need a power conditioner eventually...

WAY low tech compared everything else featured here...but us noobs usually pale in comparison while we're learning.

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post #2704 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 11:46 AM
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I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?

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post #2705 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjcook View Post
I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?
My opinion: don't do it. I did it and it's the biggest PITA ever tying to reach stuff from the back. I hated having to do anything in that rack (even with the sides off). I was SO happy when I got rid of it.

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post #2706 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjcook View Post
I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?
Should be nice. 24 to 28 inches deep is ideal in my opinion.
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post #2707 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 05:15 PM
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I would disagree with Hamster because most equipment of any scale will eat up all the depth a 19" rack has to offer very quickly. Add in the several inches for wire at the back plus a reasonable cable bending radius and 23" is really the minimum you should be considering....so I'd say jump on the deal.
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post #2708 of 2793 Old 10-03-2016, 05:42 PM
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My rack is 23" deep. Means I can put stuff on both sides. Plus also my long server case fits etc..
The 19" is more than sufficient for most set ups. It all depends on what you think you'll need

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post #2709 of 2793 Old 10-04-2016, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjcook View Post
I'm considering picking up my first rack (second hand) that is standard width of 19" but that is 23" deep instead of the usual 19". Any negatives in choosing a deeper rack besides footprint?

GET IT !!!

But by the same token, don't discredit a 19" depth either. Just because someone else had a bad experience with a 19" depth does not mean they don't have their place.

My rack is 19" deep. I love it. It fits my space IDEALLY, which is key. Having a back ground in equipment install (several years in an E&I unit in USAF) helps with cramped quarters too.

All this is moot however since you have an opportunity to grab a 23" deep rack. My point is simply not to discredit one vs. the other unless the installed location is considered.










Good luck with the install !!!!


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post #2710 of 2793 Old 10-05-2016, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for the feedback @MalevolentHamster @bombertodd @3rotor @rms8 -- I picked up the pair of 23" deep MA SRSR-X-20 slide out rotating racks for my ~26" deep closet with no rear access. I'll post pics when installed, though I doubt it will be as clean as @rms8 's
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post #2711 of 2793 Old 10-07-2016, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auburnu008 View Post
Thanks! The racks are Middle Atlantic ERK-4420's. I hide the slack in the sides. There are about 2 inches on each side of the shelves that allow wiring to be hid.
Sorry if this has been asked here before, but is this for a home? If so, how could you possibly need that many networking cables? How is your network?

And third... If you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? That's inspiring.
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post #2712 of 2793 Old 10-08-2016, 04:34 PM
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Show me your RACK

Here's a shot of the front of mine. It's across the hall from the theater. It's a DIY job and a rush one at that.


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post #2713 of 2793 Old 10-09-2016, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeko View Post
Sorry if this has been asked here before, but is this for a home? If so, how could you possibly need that many networking cables? How is your network?

And third... If you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? That's inspiring.
Obviously I'm not auburn008, but if you build a new home and you add Ethernet to every device that could need it TV's, appliances, wall jacks, IP cameras, and so on. It adds up real quick. I recall reading he is in real estate (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

If you haven't don so yet, check out his build thread. It is a great read. White Oaks Cinema House and Theater Build

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post #2714 of 2793 Old 10-11-2016, 08:51 PM
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23" deep rack

Ive got a full height 23" deep rack. It was definitely 3rd hand to me. Mine, in it's past life before me was an RCMP surveillance rack at one time. Ended up in one of the homes of the staff after it was retired, and then I got my hands on it. It's great having the extra space to mount to in the back. We all have converters boxes, or switches, or other electronic boxes that don't fit on the shelf or don't fit on the walls. This one fits it all no problem. Its worth it if you have the extra space.
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post #2715 of 2793 Old 10-11-2016, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rms8 View Post
GET IT !!!

But by the same token, don't discredit a 19" depth either. Just because someone else had a bad experience with a 19" depth does not mean they don't have their place.

My rack is 19" deep. I love it. It fits my space IDEALLY, which is key. Having a back ground in equipment install (several years in an E&I unit in USAF) helps with cramped quarters too.

All this is moot however since you have an opportunity to grab a 23" deep rack. My point is simply not to discredit one vs. the other unless the installed location is considered.










Good luck with the install !!!!


.
Hey, I like set up you got there. What do you have for Equipment in there? I see some vertical units in the bottom and what looks like a pro guitar tuner in the middle?
Beautiful set up! Far fancier then mine.

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post #2716 of 2793 Old 10-12-2016, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towercontrol View Post
Hey, I like set up you got there. What do you have for Equipment in there? I see some vertical units in the bottom and what looks like a pro guitar tuner in the middle?
Beautiful set up! Far fancier then mine.

I have a detailed list with embedded links to the equipment's web site in the first post of my build thread.

Thanks !!


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post #2717 of 2793 Old 11-08-2016, 07:43 AM
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Im renting lol
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post #2718 of 2793 Old 11-10-2016, 05:57 PM
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Just picked up a couple of these 16u racks with 3 shelves each for 130/each. Pretty pleased for the price.

My theater rack (pretty basic)



And my office rack, aka the rack of misfit av toys. I keep these decks around for loading footage into my edit system.







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post #2719 of 2793 Old 11-22-2016, 10:46 AM
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any pics of 2 post racks?
i dont have room for a full size rack, tried to search google but most people are using 4 post/ full size racks
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post #2720 of 2793 Old 11-22-2016, 11:05 AM
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The Middle Atlantic Slim5 is 20" deep. That is only slightly deeper than most standard receivers. How much room do you have to work with?
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post #2721 of 2793 Old 11-22-2016, 01:12 PM
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Here is my current rack.

It is a basic AV/IT Rack. Network, 2 zone video system, 8 zone audio system with RTI and Crestron control (in the process of converting everything over to Crestron). This also seconds as my test/demo rack for programming so there is a ton of random stuff thrown in.

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post #2722 of 2793 Old 11-22-2016, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post
The Middle Atlantic Slim5 is 20" deep. That is only slightly deeper than most standard receivers. How much room do you have to work with?
room is 20x12x8, office/media room.
Was thinking 2 post rack and build small cabinet around it
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post #2723 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 05:12 AM
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I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.

Any ideas?
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post #2724 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfdrifter View Post
I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.

Any ideas?
Maybe Middle Atlantic has something, in their modular UCP system?



http://www.middleatlantic.com/produc...el-system.aspx

If any of those switches are line voltage, you may want to consider surface mount boxes.
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post #2725 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfdrifter View Post
I'm currently building my rack (a Middle Atlantic One) and I want to add on a 3U rackspace some wall switches to control the projector lift, the screen and some blackout blinds. Is there any specific blanking plate that has holes to accomodate those switches? I would prefer EU sized wall switches.

Any ideas?
Can't you use relays in the controller instead of wall switches?
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post #2726 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 05:37 AM
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Can't you use relays in the controller instead of wall switches?
Ehhh... I could...probably? I don't know what these are. I'm looking though for a temp/cheap solution, since my blinds/screen/lift don't have any triggers, so I would I either have to install 4 triggers for the 4 devices in the future.

{DISCLAIMER: I'm a total noob regarding these relays and or wall switches.)

I will look into the relays, but other than that, is there a solution for what I asked? Thanks

EDIT: Just saw Neurorad's reply! Thank you!

Last edited by Surfdrifter; 01-19-2017 at 05:42 AM.
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post #2727 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 05:55 AM
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You could actually cut openings in a blank panel. Tape off the faceplate, and use a jigsaw. Or you could
simply make your own panel.
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Last edited by Tedd; 01-19-2017 at 06:01 AM.
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post #2728 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
You could actually cut openings in a blank panel. Tape off the faceplate, and use a jigsaw. Or you could
simply make your own panel.
Yes, probably that is what I will do. Thank you!
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post #2729 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 06:09 AM
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If those are line voltages and not low voltage relays, then you need to consider using armoured cable and suitable boxes behind the
face plate for safety.
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post #2730 of 2793 Old 01-19-2017, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfdrifter View Post
Ehhh... I could...probably? I don't know what these are. I'm looking though for a temp/cheap solution, since my blinds/screen/lift don't have any triggers, so I would I either have to install 4 triggers for the 4 devices in the future.

{DISCLAIMER: I'm a total noob regarding these relays and or wall switches.)

I will look into the relays, but other than that, is there a solution for what I asked? Thanks

EDIT: Just saw Neurorad's reply! Thank you!
Not sure how you are controlling all your devices. Multiple remotes, Creston, Control4, something in the middle?

You want to keep your own creations of High voltage outside the rack. Mess that up and you have a highly charged rack.

So, nearer the high voltage for the screen and anyway why not a 12/24v motor for the screen you have a relay to control the high voltage. It is triggered by a low voltage switch on the controlling hardware on the rack.

Even most AVR and projector have a 12v trigger that can do this job. Turn on the projector or AVR and the trigger sends a current to the relay to drop the screen.
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Last edited by SMHarman; 01-19-2017 at 09:44 AM.
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