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post #2821 of 2839 Old 08-25-2017, 11:35 PM
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The concern is if you pull enough air out from here will it cause enough pressure difference somewhere else...
I have two bathroom fans that vent to outside and I can't see that they cause an air imbalance issue. That said, I'm not keen now on cutting and venting to outside.

I'm leaning towards cutting vents on the wood shelf above the unit and vents at the bottom to draw air in. I like the idea of ac infinity T7 2u rack fans with thermostat control. I'll probably start with a standard fan stuck at the bottom just to see if I can get air to circulate. Thx for replying. If anyone finds a good link for cooling within a very confined space let me know.
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post #2822 of 2839 Old 08-26-2017, 12:27 AM
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Show me your RACK

My updated/cleanup rack. Needs more cat cables for various drops around the house. Also, will be venting to the basement below with inline fan so I can actually shut the door to the closet.


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TV: Panasonic 60" VT60 Plasma Surround: Yamaha RXA3050 5.1.2 Definitive Technology BP7006 (front), DefTech studio 350's (rear), Def Tech Di6.5r (ceiling) Players: Raspberry Pi running OpenElec/Kodi, Roku, Sony Blu-ray Control: Control4, whole house automation
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post #2823 of 2839 Old 08-26-2017, 12:28 AM
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TV: Panasonic 60" VT60 Plasma Surround: Yamaha RXA3050 5.1.2 Definitive Technology BP7006 (front), DefTech studio 350's (rear), Def Tech Di6.5r (ceiling) Players: Raspberry Pi running OpenElec/Kodi, Roku, Sony Blu-ray Control: Control4, whole house automation
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post #2824 of 2839 Old 08-26-2017, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Gazoo382 View Post
I'm leaning towards cutting vents on the wood shelf above the unit and vents at the bottom to draw air in. I like the idea of ac infinity T7 2u rack fans with thermostat control. I'll probably start with a standard fan stuck at the bottom just to see if I can get air to circulate. Thx for replying. If anyone finds a good link for cooling within a very confined space let me know.
I don't have a link handy, but do recall seeing someone made wide slot grilles for just this sort of purpose. Give it a finished look, which might be hard to otherwise obtain when cabinetry is already installed. Cutting some slots with a router during construction can give a nice look. But a grille cover also gives you a way to hide any in-field hole edges. That and a way to gain access behind the grille for cleaning.

That and what you want is enough air volume moved to exchange heated air inside the cabinet with conditioned air from the room. Larger, slower turning fans can often be quieter than smaller, faster ones. I've seen many IT racks that use an array of four fans on the top of an enclosed rack cabinet to pull air up. I don't know how your cabinet there is constructed but my first thought is to put a grill on the lower baseboard section, some fans in the floor of the cabinet (under the rack) and use that to pull air from outside in from the bottom and push it upwards. If you have enough room at the top then something similar would work (possibly better). Some kind of box that collects the air at the top and pushes it out a slot grille, to avoid having direct fan holes on the top.

I'd also look for a fan controller that supports dialing in a specific speed. That'd allow for fine-tuning to find the 'least annoying' speed while still getting effective airflow.
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post #2825 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 06:35 AM
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I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.

Any suggestions?
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post #2826 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.

Any suggestions?
I use an IR repeater kit like this one from monoprice (I think this version replaced the one I have):

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18533

You also have to get a 3.5mm cable and adapter to go down to the 2.5mm input of the harmony. I've never had an issue. I even use one of the outputs to go directly into my receiver's IR in.

Here is the adapter that should work with any 3.5mm cable:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7122
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post #2827 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 07:22 AM
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I use an IR repeater kit like this one from monoprice (I think this version replaced the one I have):

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=18533

You also have to get a 3.5mm cable and adapter to go down to the 2.5mm input of the harmony. I've never had an issue. I even use one of the outputs to go directly into my receiver's IR in.

Here is the adapter that should work with any 3.5mm cable:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7122
I'm a little confused how this would work? My understanding is that the output from the Harmony Hub are the IR bulbs. How would I get the IR bulb output into the Monoprice repeater?
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post #2828 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 07:26 AM
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I'm a little confused how this would work? My understanding is that the output from the Harmony Hub are the IR bulbs. How would I get the IR bulb output into the Monoprice repeater?
That is what the 3.5mm cable and adapter is for. The inputs on that IR Repeater will take the signal from the Harmony hub and split it for you into 5 emitters. So you take the 2.5mm -> 3.5mm adapter and plug that into the harmony (which has 2.5mm inputs). then plug in the 3.5mm into the adapter then the IR repeater.
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post #2829 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 07:36 AM
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Ah. So it doesn't have to through the bulb and can just go through the 3.5mm cable into the repeater? My assumption was it had to go through the bulb.
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post #2830 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
Ah. So it doesn't have to through the bulb and can just go through the 3.5mm cable into the repeater? My assumption was it had to go through the bulb.
Correct, then you just plug emitters into the repeater. Note that the Harmony ones won't work without adapters because they have 2.5mm plugs, but when I bought my repeater it came with emitters as well. I'm not sure that version comes with emitters, but you can buy them from amazon and/or monoprice I believe. The reviews for the new version on Monoprice aren't that great, but this one on amazon seems really well liked:

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Produc...R+repeater+kit
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post #2831 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 08:07 AM
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Awesome. Thanks!
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post #2832 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Spyderturbo007 View Post
I'm considering going the rack route, but I'm concerned about IR. Right now things are in the unfinished part of the basement, so I'm able to point the Harmony Hub at the components. I'm afraid if I go with an exposed rack, that I won't be able to bounce the IR off the opposing wall, which is about 8' away. I know that the hub allows for 4 IR outputs, but I'll have more than 4 components once things are finished.

Any suggestions?
I have had the Harmony hub and love it. I am using just One of the ir cables in my enclosed rack and because of glass front shelf it controls everything (about 6 devices). I think I have 2 not even being used. However I also have an IR light switch that is 35' away and the hub reaches it ok. (Unobstructed view). I'm replacing it with RF tomorrow. Slowing switching to Lutron Caseta for light and fan switches, controlled via Lutron hub via Alexa and Harmony.

In the past, I had an IR light switch around the corner from the harmony hub and it wouldn't reach it. I installed a 50' cable (just regular 3.5mm with 2.5mm adaptor) and PAINTED the sensor white and glued it nearby the switch and it worked!

Bottom line, you don't need an IR cable for every device. Don't sweat it.
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post #2833 of 2839 Old 08-28-2017, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I'd also look for a fan controller that supports dialing in a specific speed. That'd allow for fine-tuning to find the 'least annoying' speed while still getting effective airflow.
FYI, got all 7.1.2 set up and ran it heavy for a few hours. With no fan the temp got up to 98F. I know the electronic components are rated much higher and I don't know what shutdown temperatures are for each device. But I'd assume I want the number no higher than 90F? 85F? The rack has two large fans that are too loud. But I'll run them tomorrow and see the difference. (I'll leave doors open a few inches to simulate grill openings).
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post #2834 of 2839 Old 08-31-2017, 11:05 PM
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I've started to look into a rack and have been considering an OmniMount RE12W, and a Tripp Lite 12US. I'm pretty undecided which way to go and haven't had much luck finding user opinions on these. Also,part of my decision is factoring the price of the shelves for each brand. OM seems to be priced a little lower than TL. Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.

Samsung 65" KS8000
Denon AVR 6300H
Klipsch F-30 Fronts
Klipsch C-20 Center
Klipsch S-20 Sides
Klipsch B-20 Rears,PA 120 12" Sub,klipsch R-10SW
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post #2835 of 2839 Old 09-01-2017, 06:05 AM
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Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.
You can use any shelves. If a standard shelf doesn't work, it's a problem with the rack, not the shelf. The rack rails need to be standard to allow any component to fit, shelves mount the same way. Depth would be the only variable, and every shelf I've seen is flexible for mounting at the rear of different depth racks, as long as it's within the correct depth range.

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post #2836 of 2839 Old 09-01-2017, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jconjason View Post
I've started to look into a rack and have been considering an OmniMount RE12W, and a Tripp Lite 12US. I'm pretty undecided which way to go and haven't had much luck finding user opinions on these. Also,part of my decision is factoring the price of the shelves for each brand. OM seems to be priced a little lower than TL. Would I be restricted to the OEM shelves or can I use 3rd party? If anyone can offer some opinions, thoughts and suggestions I would really appreciate it! Thanks.
The cheapest shelf for the job works. All modular and I normally shop amazon for shelves.

Don't forget a tub of 100 rack screws. All set on screws then.
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post #2837 of 2839 Old 09-01-2017, 06:51 PM
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You can use any shelves. If a standard shelf doesn't work, it's a problem with the rack, not the shelf. The rack rails need to be standard to allow any component to fit, shelves mount the same way. Depth would be the only variable, and every shelf I've seen is flexible for mounting at the rear of different depth racks, as long as it's within the correct depth range.
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The cheapest shelf for the job works. All modular and I normally shop amazon for shelves.

Don't forget a tub of 100 rack screws. All set on screws then.
Thank you both for the replies. Do either of you have an opinion of the 2 racks? They appear to be pretty much identical. The TL looks to have a higher weight limit. Thanks again!

Samsung 65" KS8000
Denon AVR 6300H
Klipsch F-30 Fronts
Klipsch C-20 Center
Klipsch S-20 Sides
Klipsch B-20 Rears,PA 120 12" Sub,klipsch R-10SW
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post #2838 of 2839 Old 09-01-2017, 07:14 PM
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Thank you both for the replies. Do either of you have an opinion of the 2 racks? They appear to be pretty much identical. The TL looks to have a higher weight limit. Thanks again!
Weight limits are largely unimportant on residential racks.

I have no opinion on those. Go with the reviews elsewhere. My rack is SnapAV Strong.

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapa...t-42u-24in-pkg

Other shelves are Amazon etc.
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post #2839 of 2839 Old 09-01-2017, 11:39 PM
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Weight limits are largely unimportant on residential racks.

I have no opinion on those. Go with the reviews elsewhere. My rack is SnapAV Strong.

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapa...t-42u-24in-pkg

Other shelves are Amazon etc.
Thanks! I have Prime, so have been looking there as well. I appreciate the input.

Samsung 65" KS8000
Denon AVR 6300H
Klipsch F-30 Fronts
Klipsch C-20 Center
Klipsch S-20 Sides
Klipsch B-20 Rears,PA 120 12" Sub,klipsch R-10SW
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