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post #121 of 523 Old 04-24-2007, 05:43 AM
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Typically you would use greenboard in a bathroom. If you were required to use a moisture resistant substrate, blueboard would not meet the ASTM requirement.

The instructions for the USG blueboard specifically state that it is not to be used in areas of high moisture or as a substrate for ceramic tile. Sorry!

Good luck,
Tim
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post #122 of 523 Old 04-24-2007, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtnfoley View Post

Dave, your Boston is showing

You spotted two unused cases of Green Glue, but not six missing sheets of rock, before posting? You may be a little too emotionally invested in this project!
It's a lot healthier to take a pragmatic approach to major reno projects, and just accept that some stuff will be done wrong and have to be corrected.

When you're all done, I (NEC 9PG) and Chip (a.k.a. stefuel, Ampro 4600HD) would be interested in the end results. Did you say you had a G70?

In fairness - basically the entire screen wall had only one layer of blueboard up. There wasn't a visible cross section for me to see that. Although later it was discernable when I was told so, by looking at the gaps in the hanging process. But, yes, my Boston came out, I was ready to hit the packie and get pissed, which is a less zen coping method.

I'd love to have you and Chip come by (I am right off 495). I have been taking a mental inventory of the MA based CRT'ers in the event that the my first run at setting up a CRT results in me needing advice, and to know who else is interested in the hobby. Depending on how done you want to see it, we are shooting for the early fall to get all the treatments up and equipment in. Contractors will be finishing up soon, then it is up to me to take it from 80% to 99%. That's when the laughs really begin.

No G70 here. I used to have a BG 808S, but I never really got that running, and parted it out (some left to go). But now I have two 6PG+'s, one with pristine tubes that Curt sold to a guy that never got it running, and the other with solid 7's or better that I was going to run, but now will use as a parts machine. They will be fed by an ISS switcher with a Moome card in it. You guys can have the local finds for now. I need to get the room up before I think about upgrading the display.
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post #123 of 523 Old 04-24-2007, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Out of curiosity, is blueboard any different than "regular" drywall?

I think the others covered it better than I could. I was told its a bit better in moisture situations, but basically the local builders prefer the product, and feel it is nicer (its an area thing). I have lived in both types of houses, and I am not sure the difference is huge. My carpenter pushed for it, I told him I was concerned with mass and asked him whether they were equivilent in weight. He said blueboard was marginally heavier - I said fine.
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post #124 of 523 Old 04-24-2007, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Well electrician is coming tomorrow to inventory what is needed, and will be doing install work on Thurs/Fri.

I need to shore up my lighting plan on the soffit. We want to do several lights to wash the wall, similar to what Gpowers did - in part because I am totally copying his design. I was about to do a thing describing my plan, but I did a search, and Greg already has my plan with a few variations.

Here is a post with his PDF of what he did:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post5499287

Oh well, the pictures are drawn, so I'll finish my post:

Here is the sketch that Ruben did for me, that I will use for the rear wall:

Here is what I came up with for lighting on the side wall:

After reading his pdf, I may add lino to the bottom of the soffit depending on what Bpape recomends.

I'd rather use the lights Ruben has, but the puck lights should work also.
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post #125 of 523 Old 04-24-2007, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Plasterers worked a full day, but I am too tired to go check it out. I was at the Red Sox game watching grown men drop balls and make lowsy throws (4 errors).

I peaked in, and things looked smooth in the stairwell. My wife says it is a war zone, so I'll take a look in the morning.

Been contemplating my screenwall. With the soffit bump out been debating adding some interest points. Not sure if I'll mirror it on the stage or stick with the flat desgin that I had originally planned. Too early to say, but do people like concave or convex?

Concave (ignore the purple/green colors, just for effect)

Convex?
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post #126 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 02:43 AM
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Convex, most definitely.

Where are you on the south shore? I'm in Wakefield, RI. You're more than welcome to stop by sometime if you want to see our theater. We're probably only an hour apart.

-drin

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post #127 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Drin - I am in Raynham (near the dog track). Probably about an hour. I'd love to see your space, although it might take me a while to get a free weekend. What are you running in your setup, I see you post frequently, but don't recall seeing a construction thread.

I need to rethink my front wall. There is a vent immediately adjacent to the bump out (dah, that's why the soffits bump), so I'd either need to make it false behind fabric (probably becomes a big dust filter) or narrower or more gradual. Points to a convex look though.

I saw the plaster work this morning. Stuff reeks. But things are looking nice.
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post #128 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 09:43 AM
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Definitely convex. Concave just looks too odd.

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post #129 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 10:09 AM
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Go convex, concave does look strange. Glad to see all the progress Dave.

Hey I don't know if crown molding will work for you or not, but I am very, very pleased with the results of using crown molding away from the ceiling in my room. I have pictures already posted without the final painting done yet on the crown. The final painting on the walls and crown should be done tonight. A/V rack and seats should be in by Friday and I hope to have the projector and screen up by then as well.
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post #130 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Drin - I am in Raynham (near the dog track). Probably about an hour. I'd love to see your space, although it might take me a while to get a free weekend. What are you running in your setup, I see you post frequently, but don't recall seeing a construction thread.

I didn't bother starting one - there are FAR nicer theaters on here than mine so it didn't seem worthwhile.

The theater is 21'L x 13'6W x 7'H. DD+GG walls and ceiling. Front and rear proscenium walls with a 6" riser at the rear. Two rows x3 of Berkline seats. Projector is a ceiling-mounted Mitsubishi HD1000U, screen is 102". Speakers are Definitive all round, running 5.1, although I have the space wired for 7.1. The amp is a Harmon Kardon AVR-435. The primary display device is a SageTV HTPC containing all our movies and music ripped to hard drive. It also repeats through the house to our two plasmas so we can watch live or recorded TV, DVD or listen to music from any of the TVs. In short order I'll be adding multizone audio with four additional zones throughout the house.

There's also an XBOX360 with HD-DVD drive. The remote is a Philips Pronto Pro 7500.

I think that's about it.

-drin

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post #131 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drin View Post

I didn't bother starting one - there are FAR nicer theaters on here than mine so it didn't seem worthwhile.

Didn't stop me. But I understand, I debated whether its worth the effort since I hired out the major construction. We all can't be Ruben/Bud/Swithey/Clarence/(too many to credit).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherokee180c View Post

Hey I don't know if crown molding will work for you or not, but I am very, very pleased with the results of using crown molding away from the ceiling in my room. I have pictures already posted without the final painting done yet on the crown. The final painting on the walls and crown should be done tonight. A/V rack and seats should be in by Friday and I hope to have the projector and screen up by then as well.

Sweet. I'll dig up your thread and check out the crown. Looking forward to the coming progress too. I think we'll wind up with crown, but I am not sure how much, and how high on the soffit, and if there will be any other details.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Definitely convex. Concave just looks too odd.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherokee180c View Post

Go convex, concave does look strange.

Okay, okay. Works better anyways since I remembered that vent. I probably will need to shrink it down some similar to BigMouth's and not run it all the way to the side soffits.
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post #132 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 11:20 AM
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Dave,

I assume you're going to have some cross supports and that the MDF section of the sffit is just not hanging off the one 2x4. I'm sure you are, but I've seen crazier things. Is there a reason you can't do the smaller cans in the soffits versus the puck lights? I might have missed that.

Bud
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post #133 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Dave,

I assume you're going to have some cross supports and that the MDF section of the sffit is just not hanging off the one 2x4. I'm sure you are, but I've seen crazier things. Is there a reason you can't do the smaller cans in the soffits versus the puck lights? I might have missed that.

Bud


Yes, I know Ruben had some additional mdf spanning the gap where he attached his lights. I expect my soffit will not be as big as the dimensions Ruben used, but I haven't remeasured the existing ones yet.

The problem I have for the cans is the side soffits are largely full of HVAC ducts (flex). The lighting is mostly for wall wash effect, although I am a bit concerned if there will be enough lighting in general. There are two 6" overhead cans and rope light for clean up time.
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post #134 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 12:20 PM
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I have a similar bathroom install planned and have received a few estimates for the installing a shower pan and drain, toilet drain, sink drain and a washing machine drain as well as all of the associated hot and cold lines. The work will involve ripping up the slab to install the new drain lines and tie-in to the existing. The estimates I have received ranged from $6,900 to almost $10k. I'm no expert, but I was shocked at how high the estimates were and the relatively large range in cost between the 3 subs.

If you don't mind me asking (and I perfectly understand if you do), what did your plumber charge you for drain and supply line installation (basically everything put providing and installing the fixtures)?

Thanks,

Mike
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post #135 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike,

Check your PMs.
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post #136 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Yes, I know Ruben had some additional mdf spanning the gap where he attached his lights. I expect my soffit will not be as big as the dimensions Ruben used, but I haven't remeasured the existing ones yet.

The problem I have for the cans is the side soffits are largely full of HVAC ducts (flex). The lighting is mostly for wall wash effect, although I am a bit concerned if there will be enough lighting in general. There are two 6" overhead cans and rope light for clean up time.

Gotcha. I have 4 six in cans in the main part of the ceiling and I never use them. Maybe only for vacuuming. I use primarily the three 4" cans above the stage that highlight the screen and two 4" cans in the rear soffit (large - about 6 feet deep) which is over the riser. Oh and the rope light of course, although I'm going to go blue soon I think (maybe we can work something out if you have extra). Thats all that's required in my 12 x 19 room.

You're making some great progress!

Bud
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post #137 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Gotcha. I have 4 six in cans in the main part of the ceiling and I never use them. Maybe only for vacuuming. I use primarily the three 4" cans above the stage that highlight the screen and two 4" cans in the rear soffit (large - about 6 feet deep) which is over the riser. Oh and the rope light of course, although I'm going to go blue soon I think (maybe we can work something out if you have extra). Thats all that's required in my 12 x 19 room.

You're making some great progress!

Bud

I have the same concerns as Dave. My room is approximately 15'3" X 19'6". It is funny you posted the SketchUp model for soffits today. I built one for my theater during lunch this afternoon to visualize a convex soffit over my stage as well.

I plan on 3 4" can lights in the soffit over the stage. I intend to use and SMX screen and pull my screen wall out to accommodate for speakers behind the screen material. I also plan on rope-lighting around my soffits and a star ceiling in the ceiling between all the soffits. Lastly, I plan on 6 sconces around the room - 2 on each side and 2 on the back wall. I've gone back and forth over adding 4 6" cans into the main ceiling and disrupting the star field (similar to the Fly-In theater design.)

Anyway, I'm glad to hear you rarely use yours Bud. We've leaned towards excluding the cans, so hopefully that's not a bad decision.

-Ryan
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post #138 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 04:54 PM
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Ryan,

This is where I stand back and say "I shoulda...". I should have skipped the cans in the main ceiling in preparation for a star ceiling, but I tried to talk myself out of not doing a star ceiling. I convinced myself that I didn't want it, but after seeing Rubens, well, you know. So I think I'm going to end up building panels and will have to deal with the cans at some point. I also should have also moved the vent to the soffit but got lazy there too.

The only reason I put in the cans in the first place was that I had no good sconce space. In other words, couldn't line things up the way I wanted do to obstructions. I would have preferred sconces aesthetically as well.

I guess you have to play the room cards your dealt as best you can.

Bud
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post #139 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Good conversation Bud / Ryan.

I actually didn't particularly want the cans in the ceiling, but put them in after we nixed the sconces. I got some real cheap on craigslist, which I now need to sell off (not the ones pictured earlier in the thread for the play room - alas, nothing cheap there) because we started to get worried about the heat they would throw off since they are halogens. I also traded messages with Greg Powers, who commented that solely perimeter lights tend can be an issue with clean up.

I would prefer the lights Ruben used (nicer finish, more aimable) to the hockey puck ones, but couldn't source them locally, and took the path of least resistance with the electrician. I can always change them over at a later date. One mistake I may be making is I really haven't provided for lights to wash the screen. I guess I kept thinking I'd rather have the PJ on, and who needs light up there. If I regret it, I guess I'll work that in on the soffit above the screen.

Bud - there is another guy who wants in on the rope light. Its back ordered till early may. But 150 feet is probably perfect for 3 rooms, come to think of it.

Plasterers finished up today. Looks good. I have almost no lights down there (they seem to have hidden the one I was using) so no pics tonight. Electrician is in for part of the finish work tomorrow, so I'll go for the two-fer.
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post #140 of 523 Old 04-25-2007, 08:48 PM
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Dave,

No problem. I think I used about 40 feet, give or take a few, so if you've got some left over after the other guy, let me know and I'll measure what I have now. I bought 150 feet last time and used it all, but not sure I could do the same with blue.

Bud
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post #141 of 523 Old 04-26-2007, 06:55 AM
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Dave,

We used crown that was 3.5" tall and mounted it 5.5" down from the ceiling leaving 2" above. It worked perfect for the amount of light that it lets out onto the ceiling, which I estimate to be about 6" all around the room. I purchased the 1000bulb, clear rope lighting which pulls about 3W / foot. They custom cut the length for you. We installed a nailer around the room first with a 45 degree bevel in it and then just nailed the crown to the nailer piece. The painting came out amazing and granite install was done yesterday as well. I am going finish just about everything in the next 2-3 days, so additional pictures will be available by Saturday at the latest. Let me know if you need any other more detailed information about the crown lighting installation.
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post #142 of 523 Old 04-26-2007, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Cherokee - thanks, great details. I'll be on the lookout for the finish pics. Not decided if I'll go with the tray or crown. Carpenter isn't back till next Wednesday (at the earliest), so I have a few days to get my thoughts straight.
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post #143 of 523 Old 04-26-2007, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Ryan,

This is where I stand back and say "I shoulda...". I should have skipped the cans in the main ceiling in preparation for a star ceiling, but I tried to talk myself out of not doing a star ceiling. I convinced myself that I didn't want it, but after seeing Rubens, well, you know. So I think I'm going to end up building panels and will have to deal with the cans at some point. I also should have also moved the vent to the soffit but got lazy there too.

The only reason I put in the cans in the first place was that I had no good sconce space. In other words, couldn't line things up the way I wanted do to obstructions. I would have preferred sconces aesthetically as well.

I guess you have to play the room cards your dealt as best you can.

Bud

Thanks for the good advice Bud. I'm pretty set on the star ceiling, and it makes sense to forget about cans in the ceiling too. Right now my vents in the front can be either int he ceiling or the soffits. I was planning to leave the supplies in the front soffit (pointing down), and the return is below my rear soffit currently, but I have room to put it in the soffit and point it down or to the front of the theater.

I totally understand about making concessions for your room. I'm not thrilled with my HVAC trunks, but I was at least able to move part of the main supply trunk which makes for much better soffit story for the front 2/3 of the room.

-Ryan
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post #144 of 523 Old 04-26-2007, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Ryan - you said you were looking at a false wall. Make sure neither the supplies nor returns get behind the screenwall or you will create one huge dust filter.

I was thinking star ceiling for a year two upgrade until I went CRT. Takes up too much real estate. Maybe I could do a "moon roof" or other detail one day. Low priority for now.
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post #145 of 523 Old 04-26-2007, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Carpenter wants my column design.

They will house Ascend HTM-200 speakers (Dimensions: 11" x 6.5" x 6.375")

Here is what I came up with. I assumed a ceiling height of 7'3" below the soffit. But, I'd take the balance out of the 6' height.

I am thinking I might want to make the opening 18", not 12" as I drew them. There will be 6 columns total, two without speakers, which will just be solid. I am thinking MDF, stuffed with insulation based on everything I have read. I may trim out later with crown ir the like. I will wrap them in expocloth. Did I miss anything?

Basic design:
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post #146 of 523 Old 04-27-2007, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Carpenter wants my column design.

They will house Ascend HTM-200 speakers (Dimensions: 11" x 6.5" x 6.375")

Here is what I came up with. I assumed a ceiling height of 7'3" below the soffit. But, I'd take the balance out of the 6' height.

I am thinking I might want to make the opening 18", not 12" as I drew them. There will be 6 columns total, two without speakers, which will just be solid. I am thinking MDF, stuffed with insulation based on everything I have read. I may trim out later with crown ir the like. I will wrap them in expocloth. Did I miss anything?

Basic design:

Post this Q over in the DIY speaker forum... there are some scarily advanced guys that will tell you the response curves of the enclosure (ignoring room effects) based on enclosure geometry and driver data alone...

I enjoy mowing my lawn. It's the only two hours of my week where I know what's expected, understand the job, can forsee completion, and look back and see progress.
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post #147 of 523 Old 04-27-2007, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtnfoley View Post

Post this Q over in the DIY speaker forum... there are some scarily advanced guys that will tell you the response curves of the enclosure (ignoring room effects) based on enclosure geometry and driver data alone...


Good idea!

Gave it a shot.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post10407712
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post #148 of 523 Old 04-27-2007, 11:43 AM
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I just replied to your questions. I'm using the same surrounds as you and columns to hide them.

I couldn't answer about the response curve, but I was told it shouldn't impact it based on my discussion with Ascend and others.
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post #149 of 523 Old 04-30-2007, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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We painted (well primed) all weekend. Its a pretty big space, that basement.

We were advised to sand the plaster on the blueboard with these mesh sander things. We scared it in a few places since plaster would get caught in it increasing the grit. Not too thrilled about that.

Might take a day or two, but we will have pics soon.
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post #150 of 523 Old 04-30-2007, 09:19 AM
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My wife has been after me to paint our living room so that's what I was doing all weekend as well.

As far as the scarring on the plaster you can quickly repair that before you paint by using some joint compound to fill in the grooves you might have created or even the ones that the plaster guy might have left behind. Just use one of the 6 inch compound trowels and get it as smooth as you can. Once dry I use a fine sanding sponge that you wet and squeeze out to keep the dust down. I did this to repair the many imperfections left on my walls from the original work done by the pros. Once sanded smooth just quickly go over it with some primer to then even off the surface if not the paint will take on a different shade. My areas came out perfect.
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