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post #241 of 523 Old 07-05-2007, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Small update - We finally got the new trim cut, primed, painted, and affixed tonight. We need to let the glue dry and then we can add the door. But the new trim looks pretty nice. We used a "stop" molding in oak (I think) from Lowes. It is an inch and a quarter wide, and just barely covers some of the imperfections in the rough cuts of the plaster beneath. Since we wanted the meaty, thicker part of the molding to be on the inside track, we couldn't get a brad to hold it inplace to build the frame off the wall. It is harder to build it on the wall and get it as straight as you want. But came out nice.

From the outside edge:

The upper corner:

From the inside edge:


It seems like a minor thing, but we had a fair bit of re-work, re-thinking, and sick toddlers troubling us during this revision. I am psyched to get the door on once the glue holding the trim down dries. Hopefully this weekend, although the schedule is packed.
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post #242 of 523 Old 07-05-2007, 10:01 PM
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SWEET! Rack setup and theater! The rack door should look awesome and the trim turned out well! Can't wait to see how you finish out the rest of the space.
Keep it up :-)
-Cam

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post #243 of 523 Old 07-06-2007, 05:03 AM
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Dave that looks really good.

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post #244 of 523 Old 07-06-2007, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks gentlemen. Slow and steady. We've been bouncing from half-started projects for a while. Playroom comes first, the rack is in that room and needed to be done before painting so it has gotten some attention.

Cathan - your HD runs counter is hilarious. They just opened a new Lowes by me, and some of the staff moved from the other one, and they recognized my wife, child and I ("oh your coming to this one now?"). Scary.
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post #245 of 523 Old 07-06-2007, 01:08 PM
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It's when they know your name that you know that you really should have bought stock in the store.

I keep having to remind myself about the slow and steady part. I almost ran myself into the ground today when I reminded myself that it's not a sprint...

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post #246 of 523 Old 07-06-2007, 07:06 PM
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I am having a hard time envisioning the door for this rack due to the knobs of your mounted components appearing to stick out past the plane of where the door would be mounted/shut.

I guess I will have to wait for the final pics.
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post #247 of 523 Old 07-07-2007, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

I am having a hard time envisioning the door for this rack due to the knobs of your mounted components appearing to stick out past the plane of where the door would be mounted/shut.

I guess I will have to wait for the final pics.

Well, I think its just the angle of the photo, but I a going to look. Really isn't a problem since the plexiglass door isn't flush with the part where it closes.

You can see the plexi- to the right in this shot. Came down with a cold, so my final install is delayed a bit.


EDIT - it is pretty much flush with the edge of the trim. Won't be a problem with the recessed area where the plexi-glass is. Going out of town for an overnight, so won't get the door up till Sunday night.
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post #248 of 523 Old 07-09-2007, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, the door is up. It wasn't as easy as I hoped, as I snapped a drill bit, which got trapped where my screw was needing to go. Net result, we forced a screw in anyways, and it worked. We also discovered the opening my carpenter put in was something less than level, so it isn't as pristine as I might like, but it will get the job done. The pics:

On the approach

Straight on:

From the HT:

Open (amps will be reshuffled a bit later):

Latch - I'll need to add a piece of metal to the trim, and just protrude in towards the rack, and the latch will grab. Should be fine once I get it:

In other projects, we worked on covering our "eyesore" vent where we re-worked some of the carpenter's efforts. We framed it up, and tomorrow we hope to attach blueboard and maybe try our hand at plaster. We'll see.
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post #249 of 523 Old 07-10-2007, 06:30 AM
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Dave,

It looks really good - and a lot like my set up in that you work the rack / put int your shows etc before you enter the HT which I like (others may not)
I still need to work on the IR and RF for the room to the rack but I'll be posting that in the thread as I get to it (as you know I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out if I going X10, Zwave or Insteon despite owning some Insteon products and Harmony remotes).
The door looks great I'm looking forward to more pics as you go forward.
Cheers
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post #250 of 523 Old 07-10-2007, 09:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Playroom update -

Had the day off today and we took on the eyesore in the playroom. Yesterday we framed our fix, but here I'll show the progression from evil to good.

First, what our carpenters built. Big, sconce blocking, non-disapearing, thing:

Next, was a version of the same thing, slightly smaller, with less craftmanship (uneven edges random pieces of molding to disguise that the wood wasn't sufficiently sized, wood in lieu of mesh on the front. To spare the guilty we neglected to photograph it, and instead I'll show you what we thought of it, specifically, adios:

Yesterday we started the healing:

This morning we carefully cut blueboard, with mitered angles, exacto-knife jujitsu, and a dash of staples and adhesive:

Finally, tonight, post toddler in bed, we got messy as, pure novices, we mixed up a batch of veneer plaster, (two trips to get the right mixing bit for the drill), lifted our trowels and other scraping implements, and did the race against time of trying to make the plaster look right before it dried. I am a lucky man to have a wife with a steady hand and an abundance of patience (with plaster, and me). It came out pretty nice, mostly on par with the work the pros did in the rest of the basement. It should be as near to invisible as its gonna get when we paint the walls.


Plastering notes: It is very messy and tedious. Oh, and its messy too.
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post #251 of 523 Old 07-11-2007, 04:50 AM
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Based on the photo it looks like you did a great job...dripping.

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post #252 of 523 Old 07-11-2007, 05:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Based on the photo it looks like you did a great job...dripping.

Very true. Actually, if I had to do it again (and do have a couple of non-critical places where we will) I would definately wear a hat.
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post #253 of 523 Old 07-11-2007, 05:49 AM
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Great job Dave,

It's looks 1000 times better than what the "professional" did. Good job on the Rack door too. Good to see your progress.
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post #254 of 523 Old 07-19-2007, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay this is this weekend's project. Sorry, more playroom stuff. One of the last couple revisions to the carpenter's work. He built an access panel to the main water shut offs, then nailed it shut. Seemed like less than perfect access, so we are going to redo it, and put it on hinges and that sort of thing.

Here is the target:

One of the things we need to fix is that he attached the molding to the panel, not the wall. My wife is a stickler for the trim being plush with the wall, so we will need to re-do that. In doing so we will likely need to address the baseboards, triming them back slightly to accomdate the panel's trim being affixed to the wall. I am thinking the dremel might be my best "close quarters" tool to shave back the baseboards for the other trim.

In terms of the inside, I am not sure if we can just attach hinges and a magnetic latch to essentially function as a jam, or if we need to build a jam, or sister up the 2x4's with additional material to better accomodate the door. At a minimum, I am thinking we will need semi-beefy hinges as the access panel is fairly wide, and cumbersome. Any thoughts on hinge types, maybe cabinet hinges?
(will open right to left)
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post #255 of 523 Old 07-20-2007, 04:40 AM
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Given that it's in a playroom, I'd be inclined to leave it semi-permanently closed, to minimize the amount of kids getting in there, being kids, and playing submarine commander, turning water off to the whole house...

Also, for as infrequently as you'll need to get in there, any solution that looks good is by definition good enough. Having it on a hinge provides no functional benefit (and may make it more a PITA if anything ever needs worked on in there beyond turning the service on/off).

Put a toybox in front of it, I say...
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post #256 of 523 Old 07-20-2007, 02:51 PM
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Quote:


At a minimum, I am thinking we will need semi-beefy hinges as the access panel is fairly wide, and cumbersome. Any thoughts on hinge types, maybe cabinet hinges?

Dave, this just happens to be my area of expertise.

European concealed hinges

Face Frame Concealed Hinges

Hidden child safety locks
Once you get that trim off the door, I can guide you to a hinge that will do the job. The nice thing about the Euro hinges is that they clip onto the mounting plates, so if you need to major service work you can unclip the hinges from the mounting plate and move doors out of the way.
If you email the address for support on our website or call, you'll get me, or you can just PM me here at AVS Forum.

Hope this helps
Chip

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post #257 of 523 Old 07-20-2007, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Sokoloff - interesting point. Ultimately it has to be changed due to a desire for clean lines. I think I am still leaning towards a hinged door, but perhaps one that has a better latch/lock.

Chip - I'll drop you a PM, as I hope you aren't working late.
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post #258 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Minor roadblock last night. My wife has been smoothing our veneer plaster efforts on our return duct efforts from a week ago with joint compound. Apply, wait a few hours, sand, apply again, etc. It was ready after a few applications of DAP joint compound (goes on pink, dries white stuff), and my wife started to roll on the primer, and the paint caused everything to peel, particularly in the areas where she had applied the joint compound the heaviest. The product says it dries in 1-5 hours (which had passed), and was paintable, so we were a bit mystified (still are).

I googled a bit, and the only thing semi-analogous that I found was this Q&A at sherwin williams (the second question describes what we saw, although it isn't joint compound specific):

Quote:


Q. When texturing a ceiling, how much joint compound, water, and paint do you use proportionately?
A. The ratio is one gallon of paint to a pail of joint compound. This ratio may vary depending on the manufacturer of the joint compound.

Q. Why would a popcorn texture peel and fall off in sheets after a latex paint is applied?
A. When latex is applied over a "popcorn" ceiling, the water in the paint can break down the adhesive bond between the texture and the substrate, allowing the weight of the texture to pull the material off the ceiling. Applying an alkyd primer before repainting with latex will usually alleviate the problem.

Do you think the alkyd primer is what we need? The problem area was probably a bit larger than your hand on this vent cover:
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post #259 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 08:34 AM
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It really sounds like the joint compound was NOT dry all the way through however long it had been drying You could try an oil based agent such as Bin or Kilz then when dry repaint but I would want to be 100% sure that compound was dry remember it is designed to go on very thin and when it is not it can take a LONG time time dry all the way through, also depending on your current atmospheric conditions in the room.

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post #260 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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McCall - that could be it. It was built up over several days, and I guess what surprised us was that it appeared that when it peeled, a lot peeled, not just the last layer from early in that afternoon.
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post #261 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 10:23 AM
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We had a similar problem (trying to fix an existing plaster wall). When we tried to roll the paint on, the existing paint came off and stuck to the roller. It was a mess.

A painter friend of mine knew exactly what the problem was and recommended a product called "plaster-weld" that you put on before the paint. Worked like a charm.

Tim
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post #262 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Tim - worth a look. The product description sounds like it is usually a pre-treater before the plaster as opposed to before the paint, but if it works, it works. . .
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post #263 of 523 Old 07-24-2007, 03:18 PM
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Yeah, it works

I put that over the mess, spackled and painted.

I have some left, I'd send it to you but with USPS being so paranoid it's probably more trouble than it's worth.

Tim
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post #264 of 523 Old 08-01-2007, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall View Post

It really sounds like the joint compound was NOT dry all the way through however long it had been drying You could try an oil based agent such as Bin or Kilz then when dry repaint but I would want to be 100% sure that compound was dry remember it is designed to go on very thin and when it is not it can take a LONG time time dry all the way through, also depending on your current atmospheric conditions in the room.

McCall - you called this one. We re-applied the JC sanded it, and let it dry several days. I was going to add the product Tim recomended, but didn't find it at Lowes, and the dealer locator was sparse on vendors by me, so we decided to paint it more time before online ordering what Tim recomended. Primer took to it 100% fine, and the subsequent paint too. Another playroom item knocked off the list.

In other news - been burning up the credit card the last few days (don't worry I pay in full each bill), table saw and rack shelves are on the way. Got good pricing for the rack gear from stayonline.com (beat nineteeninch.com for shelves where I got my rails and door previously) - and great service from amazon on the table saw (pulled me into a promo that came out a day after I placed my order, netting me a free cordless screwdriver). We should be finishing up the playroom and back in the HT soon.
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post #265 of 523 Old 08-05-2007, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I was having trouble with my coax terminations, the connectors kept falling off. Very annoying. I posted a thread in the AV Distrib forum, and got some helpful responses. I took pics on each step, and some one else might find it a handy tutorial:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=11197788

Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

A couple of pointers:

1. Make sure you have the right connector for the coax. Match Quad (4 shields) connectors with Quad coax. Match dual (2 shields) connectors with dual coax.

Check

and check


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

2. Make sure to prep the coax properly. roughly 1/4" to 3/8" of center conductor should stick out out of the white dielectric. 1/4" of foil on the dielectric should be exposed. All braid should be pulled back over the jacket so that all you see is the foil for roughly 1/4".

3/8" for the conductor, 1/4" for the foil (approx)


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

3. Make sure to seat the connector properly. The end of the white dielectric should be flush with the inside of the connector where the threading stops. If you look at the end of the connector, you should see a hole in the middle that is smaller than the threaded part of the connector. This is probably 1/4" from the very end of the connector.

Set in place


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

4. Before you compress the connector, make sure you do not see any loose braid strands near the center conductor. If the connector is seated properly and you are looking at the end, you should see the silver from the connector on the outside, white dielectric in the middle, and the center conductor on the center.



Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

5. Compress all the way. Make sure you are using a tool that is matched with your connector. Most compression tools are inter-changeable (in my experience), but some are not.

Rock and Roll


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders View Post

6. If you've done all this and you are still easily able to pull the connector off the coax, you may want to look for a different brand of connector.

Hope this helps,

Carl

Doesn't separate!

And the [playroom] tv is working on my wire (the flash made a wierd pattern on the left of the screen, not seen in real life)
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post #266 of 523 Old 08-05-2007, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, Papa has a brand new funk:

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post #267 of 523 Old 08-06-2007, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim View Post

Also, Papa has a brand new funk:


Nice!!

I have the same system for the RG6 connectors as well. Works like a charm. My only complaint is that they won't fit the RCA compression connectors (at least the ones I have). Did you see any RCA fittings for the Ideal in your area?

The door on your equipment rack looks great. I'm thinking maybe I should have done that instead of the wood finish

Craig

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post #268 of 523 Old 08-06-2007, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strange_brew View Post

Nice!!

I have the same system for the RG6 connectors as well. Works like a charm. My only complaint is that they won't fit the RCA compression connectors (at least the ones I have). Did you see any RCA fittings for the Ideal in your area?

The door on your equipment rack looks great. I'm thinking maybe I should have done that instead of the wood finish


Thanks. Never owned a table saw, so I am still figuring out the ins and outs. It is slated for a lot of work cutting ply and MDF into the pieces needed for fabric frames.

I picked my compression tool at HD - I'll check on my next run to see if they have any RCAs.

Glad you like the way the door came out. Its a bit spendy (what isn't), but my wife kind of pushed for it since the rack is in the kids playroom. The benefit of a lock! Before I decided on that I was thinking wood trim too. Too much time in Bud's thread admiring the trim!
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post #269 of 523 Old 08-21-2007, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Well. We reached 95% on the playroom tonight, and we can start to work on the HT again. In the last couple of weeks some more shelves arrived, and I started to rearrange and fill the rack. There are some open spots for the PS3, and DVR, but the amps, receiver, some blanks and the drawer (a 2U drawer for remotes and whatnot - really smooth) are in:

We also scouted some paint for the the crown. We tried a couple different combo's, but the one we like is a base coat of Benjamin Moore's "Stuart Gold" with their [expensive] metallic gold glaze on top. We are going to do the crown and most likely the curved soffit in the front in this color. The rest of the colors will be dazian expocloth (aka exposure) - black for the screen wall, under soffits and columns, and royal blue for the fabric frames.

Finally, Bryan Pape has given me my room analysis. It seems I have a ton of OC 703 to source, pick up and place. Should be a real difference maker though.

We are booked up the next couple weekends, so we will be trying to nibble at a few things in the evenings. First on the list will be patching all the holes the electrician left (suggestions? foam? caulk? something else?), smooth out some surfaces, run some of the wires through the conduit and move all the tools out of the playroom and into the HT (thinking of Bigmouth's rolling shelf idea). Fired up to get moving.
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post #270 of 523 Old 08-21-2007, 07:57 PM
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So did you go with a 4U for the receiver? Curious minds want to know.... well, me at least.

Bud
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