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post #1 of 30 Old 01-16-2007, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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hi ive noticed alot of people have used greenglue to soundproof their rooms i have read all the data on the website. my question is did it work are you happy and did it stop those bass sounds from the subwoofers
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post #2 of 30 Old 01-16-2007, 12:15 PM
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Yes, many of us are very happy with green glue, but don't think that a second layer of drywall with green glue will solve all your bass problems. Green glue is one important piece of a complete sound isolation strategy.


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post #3 of 30 Old 01-16-2007, 06:00 PM
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I personally have not use it (yet). However, from spending countless hours reading on this forum, I do not recall reading any post where someone was unhappy after using the product. The downsides I have read are that it is expensive and messy. In other words, I do not recall anyone saying they used it and it did not work to reduce sound transmission into or out of the theater.

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post #4 of 30 Old 01-16-2007, 09:16 PM
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I used GG on a basement bedroom when I finished my basement. I used double drywall and GG on the ceiling and two walls (interior). I wanted to achieve sound blockage between the bedroom and an adjacent gameroom. I insulated heavily in the ceiling joists and the interior walls as well and it works great. I plan to use it again when I start my theater in the next couple of months.

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post #5 of 30 Old 01-16-2007, 10:06 PM
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Yes, many of us are very happy with green glue

Especially happy when you're done using it Sorry Ted.
Quite frankly, I don't know if GG helped because I have nothing to compare it with BUT, I trust the people who promoted it as effective.
Personally, after completing my room, I think the only way you''re going to get anything like complete sound isolation is to build a separate building for your HT.
I can say that in the rest of my house, the sound of the HT is non-intrusive. You know something is going on when there is large amounts of LFE going on but it is not offensive.
Also, GG is only part of the equation. Solid construction techniques and by solid I mean bunker solid, mechnical decoupling, the whole nine yards and about 9,000 yards of caulk and liquid nails.

 

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post #6 of 30 Old 01-08-2014, 06:11 PM
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There are many, many posts on here stating that green glue works really well. However if you read the reviews on the Amazon website and other general reviews there are many disappointed customers. I have read/researched for hours on soundproofing on here and other home theatre sites.I am about to build a home theatre and have already ordered my first batch of green glue. I think it may be that many people don't use it properly and/or don't completely seal their rooms. I am trusting all the positive reviewers and advice on here. I know that there are other considerations like de-coupling from the studs, caulking etc. Also, there are some posters on here and other forums who actually sell green glue. Of course they would give it rave reviews.I am hopeful that it works as stated.
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post #7 of 30 Old 01-08-2014, 06:47 PM
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I have clips and channels with OSB+GG+ 5/8" DW in theater room. On walls outside of theater room I have 5/8"DW+GG+5/8"DW- no clips or channels ie. screwed in 2 x 6 studs. Outside theater room is dead quiet......our pantry room which shares a wall with theater is 2nd quietest room in home....theater room is number one.





Yes, Green Glue works! Making note, the biggest sound leakage comes from theater room entrance door......knew that going in but incorporated double door system that which works like a charm. In terms of LF, I can barely hear rumbles if both doors are closed.

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post #8 of 30 Old 01-09-2014, 07:32 AM
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I used double 1/2" drywall (found it on sale and had it in the basement before knowing I should have bought 5/8") and GG in my theater. Decoupled, caulked, heavy sealed entry door. At full volume in my basement theater, I can be directly upstairs and every one in a while I hear rumbling that sounds like very distant thunder. With the TV on upstairs I don't hardly notice anything if the kids are watching something with "normal" bass. Now pop in the LFE testing scenes and it is audible, but not distracting. Again, very distant thunder sounding.

I stretched my build over 10-12 years and the Green Glue had spilled onto a waist 2x4 after application. Fast forward 5-6 years of NO work on the theater and I was preparing for the build to start up again and the GG on the board was still super sticky and pliable. That confirmed to me that the product between my drywall layers was that same and would be doing what it was advertised to do.

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post #9 of 30 Old 01-09-2014, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnewey6 View Post

hi ive noticed alot of people have used greenglue to soundproof their rooms i have read all the data on the website. my question is did it work are you happy and did it stop those bass sounds from the subwoofers

Just to throw a bit of reality on your expectations - the typical builds described here (double drywall on clips and channel with green glue) will not stop extreme low bass (20-30Hz) to any significant degree. If you are expecting to crank the theater at reference levels and not hear this kind of bass in the next room you will end up disappointed unless you go to much more extreme solutions (fully floated room within a room, significantly more mass than just double drywall, etc).
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post #10 of 30 Old 01-10-2014, 12:52 AM
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The question is very difficult for anyone to answer as no one will have tried the same build with and without GG. But if you use it and you're happy with the results, then of course you will want to believe it did a difference so you can motivate the cost to yourself. cool.gif

Not that my stick has been lying around as long as Bronco's, but it does seem like it will stay sticky so I do think there's a good chance that it has a true function. I have had one acoustician tell me that stopping extreme LF would have been better without it, just the added mass, but I don't think those are the frequencies that will be the most disturbing to the neighbours in my case.

No matter what, building using GG will definitely be filed under "feelgood". smile.gif

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post #11 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

The question is very difficult for anyone to answer as no one will have tried the same build with and without GG. But if you use it and you're happy with the results, then of course you will want to believe it did a difference so you can motivate the cost to yourself. cool.gif

Ah ha! My kind of post Nightlord. After reading a lot of posts about GG, I've wondered the very same thing. Have the lab boys at GG constructed two identical rooms, with the ONLY altering difference being the GG? I'm not here to bash GG, because I'm seriously considering using it. However, what would be useful information is how much MORE (%) isolation will I gain by using it as opposed to not?

Let's assume for a moment that I've got a fairly sealed room using single 5/8" DW. I then take a measurement of what I can hear inside. (however you decide to measure is not the point.) I then install another layer of 5/8" DW at 90 degrees and offset seams. I take another measurement and I've decided that I've reduced the noise by ~70%. Now, what does adding GG to the equation add in terms of more isolation? Another 5% reduction? Or, is it more like a 20% reduction? All other factors being equal. This I believe is the $64k question that has not been answered sufficiently to help those of us still wondering make a truly informed decision. Especially if you already know your room will have other gaps (no pun intended) in the isolation equation. If I will only gain an additional 5% reduction than I have a price/benefit factor to decide on. Gaining 20% helps that decision along tremendously. Is there conclusive evidence that can put a value on the additional reduction gained by using GG, as opposed to not? What does GG have over some of the other acoustic compounds?

I also have a question on the application of GG with new construction. When putting up the first layer of DW, should GG be applied to the edges of the raw studs before the first sheet is secured with screws?

Rick

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post #12 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 01:06 PM
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For $40 bucks you can prove it to yourself. Buy a tube of GG and two sheets of 5/8 DW. Then put two 4x4 sheets together with about 8 screws, then put two 4x4 sheets together with the same number of screws and GG. Wait 30 days hang each from something and hit with a rubber mallet.

GG on the edge of a stud is a waste of perfectly good GG. Do some online research on Constrained Dampening Layers. That is the principle at work with GG.


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post #13 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

....
GG on the edge of a stud is a waste of perfectly good GG. Do some online research on Constrained Dampening Layers. That is the principle at work with GG.

That's why I asked BIGmouth. Now I know. What I'm faced with is a room with two exterior walls, 2 rather large windows and will also have double french doors(not glass), but as heavy as I can find within a reasonable amount of $. I'm also planning on insulation between the floor joists and a drop, acoustical tile ceiling. So, I already know that I have 3 weak links in the isolation chain. That's why I know I can't obtain 100% isolation and soundproofing. But despite these items, I still want my room as quiet as possible and to keep any internal vibrations absorbed and kept to a minimum. I believe I can take certain design measures that will help. Outside noises are not my primary concern as much as achieving a deaden, damped room. I could go all out with better, more current windows designed with sound-proofing in mind, and fireproof doors, & drywall the ceiling, but that's not my overall intent. And more costly than my budget allows. I will not be watching movies or listening to music at reference levels. This is my multi-purpose mancave.

What I have decided to do is install double 5/8" drywall on all walls with Roxul Safe-n-Sound throughout. The 'primary' wall where the front speakers and 2 subs will be, is a 6" wall with alternating studs on 16" centers. This wall will have insulation woven horizontally between the alternating studs. It will have 5/8" DDW on front and back. The other interior wall is 4", as are the two exterior walls. So, given some of the constraints I'm dealing with, the design decisions I've made, I'm not sure that GG would benefit me at all. My fishtank has a big hole - the french doors. But, I have not purchased them yet, and they would be 'upgradeable' in the future should I desire a step-up in isolation. The drop ceiling is not a concern either, as I'm under a room that is little used and has a large area rug. I know the studs are what will carry the sound, but short of using hat-channel and clips to hang the dryway, damping it as best I can from the inside is my only 'reasonable' option.

I'm open to ideas and whether or not GG would give me any significant amount of additional isolation.

Rick

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post #14 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redjr View Post

Have the lab boys at GG constructed two identical rooms, with the ONLY altering difference being the GG?

Well, the lab did test the wall assemblies - which should get you the same basic results:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/lab-tests/green-glue-transmission-loss-testing/

A wall with DD+GG (on the source side only) gets you an STC rating of 52. Same wall (DD) without GG is rated at STC of 42... See the first test listed (OL 05-0414) and the same construction without GG (OL 05-1058). Unfortunately the latter report isn't available to look at, only the results...

And the simple "knock test" will tell you it works and was worth the money.

EDIT: Although now seeing your room particulars, I don't think you'll get much benefit, since the french doors and drop-ceiling provide gaping escape paths for any sound. But you could save some money by skipping the Roxul and just using the pink fluffy stuff.

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post #15 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 02:11 PM
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I'm open to ideas and whether or not GG would give me any significant amount of additional isolation.

I do think it has effect, at least in parts of the spectrum, but what I think is unimportant.

Will you tear down and try again if the resulting soundproofing isn't enough. Or do you know you can live with that result without beating yourself up over not trying the gg?

If either answer is yes, them I guess you can skip it. If your honest answers to both is no, then DO go for it.

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post #16 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 04:17 PM
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Our theater is upstairs above master and next to daughters room. I used mass loaded vinyl on floor plus green glue. Walls are two layers of 1/2" drywall with green glue and insulated walls. We are about two months after completion and with 85 db in theater my daughters room is about 43 db. For me it is worth being able to use it without going into night mode. Downstairs in master is quiet just a little bass sound. I haven't taken a reading down there yet. Question is the extra time and money worth it? For me it was.


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post #17 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 08:27 PM
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I'd prefer to put something between the sheets if for no other reason but a bond between them. But, in my particular situation, I have no illusions that it's going to greatly influence the isolation characteristics of my space. They DD will have the most influence. The carpeted floor won't hurt either. smile.gif As for my french doors... I haven't found any yet, but plan on visiting a custom door store in my area within the next week, or so. I guess you could take some regular solid panels door and customize the inside surface with sound absorption panels, but I don't know how that would work out aesthetically. No one will be seeing the inside of the doors too much. Has anyone done anything similarly?

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post #18 of 30 Old 03-19-2014, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

I do think it has effect, at least in parts of the spectrum, but what I think is unimportant.

Will you tear down and try again if the resulting soundproofing isn't enough. Absolutely not! Or do you know you can live with that result without beating yourself up over not trying the gg? Yes.

If either answer is yes, them I guess you can skip it. If your honest answers to both is no, then DO go for it.
But, I still don't think I will skip it - totally. I may put on half of the recommended amount just as a bonding agent.

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post #19 of 30 Old 03-21-2014, 01:44 PM
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I did a complete sound proof envelope on the second floor with all of my wiring HVAC and anything else entering the room in my soffits, stage, and riser. My can lights are in my coffers and sconces on the columns. The largest gap is the 36” wide 1 3/4" solid door. 3 walls were exterior and I used clips and channel the rear wall toward the billiard room is double stud wall. I have 5/8" OSB/ GG /5/8" DW in the theater and double 5/8" DW in billiard room.. I have a second layer of ¾” T&G OSB with GG on the floor. My walls have R13 except in rear where both decoupled walls have R13. My ceiling has R19. That said I do have a comparison my friend’s theater is also over his garage with no sound proofing and you can not only hear his base but the vocals and music all over his house. In my house you can barely hear anything when standing in the billiard room except the low rumble of base but like someone said distant thunder. And that is playing at reference level.
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post

a room with two exterior walls,
clips and DW/GG/DW
2 rather large windows
check my window plug build
will also have double french doors(not glass), but as heavy as I can find within a reasonable amount of $.
My gapping hole for sound loss is the door I would reconsider French doors
I'm also planning on insulation between the floor joists
R19 and do not forget to use backer boxes for the caned lights or any light fixture
drop, acoustical tile ceiling.
Just my opinion but if you do not put clips and channel with DW/GG/DW do not even do anything else as all the sound will be going through here
I will not be watching movies or listening to music at reference levels. This is my multi-purpose mancave.
you say that now biggrin.gif
What I have decided to do is install double 5/8" drywall on all walls with Roxul Safe-n-Sound throughout. The 'primary' wall where the front speakers and 2 subs will be, is a 6" wall with alternating studs on 16" centers. This wall will have insulation woven horizontally between the alternating studs. It will have 5/8" DDW on front and back. The other interior wall is 4", as are the two exterior walls. So, given some of the constraints I'm dealing with, the design decisions I've made, I'm not sure that GG would benefit me at all. My fishtank has a big hole - the french doors. bigger hole is the dropped ceiling But, I have not purchased them yet, and they would be 'upgradeable' in the future should I desire a step-up in isolation. The drop ceiling is not a concern either, as I'm under a room that is little used and has a large area rug. sound will flank through this room to the rest of the house like my buddies place I know the studs are what will carry the sound, but short of using hat-channel and clips to hang the dryway, damping it as best I can from the inside is my only 'reasonable' option.

I'm open to ideas and whether or not GG would give me any significant amount of additional isolation.
do not bother if you are not doing the ceiling. Just my opinion
Rick

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Although now seeing your room particulars, I don't think you'll get much benefit, since the french doors and drop-ceiling provide gaping escape paths for any sound. But you could save some money by skipping the Roxul and just using the pink fluffy stuff.
what he said
Jeff

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But, I still don't think I will skip it - totally. I may put on half of the recommended amount just as a bonding agent
You can always do the DW/GG/DW on the ceiling later if the effect is not how you like. but do not be one of the people who do a half job then go online and bad mouth a product. Not saying that is you but it happens all the time

You read a lot of all or nothing comments and I cannot tell you what a half job will do since I went full steam ahead. But I can say a well planed completely thought out sound proof room with the lessons learned here and elsewhere will do an outstanding job. So yes GG does work as advertised if employed properly.


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post #20 of 30 Old 03-21-2014, 01:59 PM
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My room has 3 layers - one layer of OSB, and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with GG between each layer. I also built a infinite baffle subwoofer (small room behind the theater) with 4 18" subwoofers using the same triple layer combination. I also made sure to follow all other soundproofing techniques like room within a room, very minimal penetrations to the drywall etc. While it does not completely damp all of the low frequencies, it does an effective enough job, that I can watch a movie late at night at pretty outrageous levels without worrying about waking the kids.

The biggest advantage is the very quiet room. You can hear every detail from the quietest whisper to the loudest explosions without having to mess with the volume control constantly. Even without being able to compare with Green Glue and Without. If I hadn't used it, I would always wonder.

I also agree with the comments here about doing it all or not at all. One mistake can easily defeat your other efforts. Your room is going to be as good as its weakest link.


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post #21 of 30 Old 03-21-2014, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

My room has 3 layers - one layer of OSB, and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with GG between each layer. I also built a infinite baffle subwoofer (small room behind the theater) with 4 18" subwoofers using the same triple layer combination. I also made sure to follow all other soundproofing techniques like room within a room, very minimal penetrations to the drywall etc. While it does not completely damp all of the low frequencies, it does an effective enough job, that I can watch a movie late at night at pretty outrageous levels without worrying about waking the kids.

The biggest advantage is the very quiet room. You can hear every detail from the quietest whisper to the loudest explosions without having to mess with the volume control constantly. Even without being able to compare with Green Glue and Without. If I hadn't used it, I would always wonder.

I also agree with the comments here about doing it all or not at all. One mistake can easily defeat your other efforts. Your room is going to be as good as its weakest link.

 

It would be interesting to measure the noise floor for both of our rooms inside/outside.  If you consider interior/exterior wall thickness.........we are essential using 4 layers each.  I have two layers inside and two layers outside with 2 X 6 framing/R-24 insulation, both with green glue but my exterior room walls are just GG and screwed.  I'm assuming you only used 1 layer outside of room with 5/8 inch DW.

 

I can attest.............4 layers of 5/8 inch do a solid job.


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post #22 of 30 Old 03-21-2014, 06:08 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys.

@Bill - I've been following your build and it looks impressive. And it's been interesting to see the developments and follow the progress.

Let me just say this quickly and I'll respond more fully later when I have more time. Let me pose this question: What if my primary concern is just a very quiet room without absolute soundproofing - whether to keep sound in or out. What advice suggested above would be different, or what design decisions would be of lesser importance? Is it true that some GG is 'really' worse than no GG at all? biggrin.gif

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post #23 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post

Thanks for the comments guys.

@Bill - I've been following your build and it looks impressive. And it's been interesting to see the developments and follow the progress.

Let me just say this quickly and I'll respond more fully later when I have more time. Let me pose this question: What if my primary concern is just a very quiet room without absolute soundproofing - whether to keep sound in or out. What advice suggested above would be different, or what design decisions would be of lesser importance? Is it true that some GG is 'really' worse than no GG at all? biggrin.gif

Rick
Thanks I have stalled due to the clean up after our ice storm and loss of power for 4 days. It has been a mess down her in the south. We are not supposed to get ice storms. There are a lot of broken trees on 5 eek.gif acres. After our cruse in April I will finish the room. cool.gif My wife works Sundays and asked why I am in there watching movies on rainy days vise finishing the room. rolleyes.gif

About your question if you wanted a nice and quiet room let me give you another example. We put an in-law suite into our house which shares a wall with my great room. I planned for my TV to be on this wall in the great room and I was not able to convince my wife we needed to completely soundproof this wall but she did let me have the contractor put R13 into the walls. I insured that no outlets for power and data shared the same stud cavity and used putty pads on the boxes. I had the builder put 5/8” DW on both sides. It is not decoupled and no GG or second layer of DW. My Daughter and her husband live with us and are using that room. She says that she can still hear us when she is in the room and we are watching TV but it is muffled. I do have a ZVOX - Z-Base 555 2.1-Ch. Home Theater Speaker System 70W sound platform which has 5 speakers and an on board 5 ½” subwoofer which goes down to 45HZ. This is just at normal evening listening levels. If we put a move in and turn it up than she needs to turn her TV volume up. Since I used Spray foam in the Attic neither the great room or the bed room ceiling have insulation. The ceiling DW is 1/2". If R19 was used in the ceiling with 3/4" DW than maybe that would be better as to reduce the flanking. Note the great room ceiling is 13 ft and the insulation on the wall goes all the way up. The Bed room ceiling is 9’. This may help with flanking but no way to know.

If you were to put 5/8” DW everywhere both sides of all walls used the putty pads on the outlets and insulated all the walls and ceiling that would be better then nothing. Also use a 1 ¾” solid core door we put in a solid door but it was just the standard size. At that point clips channel GG and another layer of 5/8” DW is only going to be around $1500 depending on size of room.

I am debating on putting GG and another layer of DW in the bed room and may if my mother moves in.


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post #24 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post

Is it true that some GG is 'really' worse than no GG at all? biggrin.gif

Well, you'd have to consider worst case scenarios then. If one side has mechanical connection and the rest is suspended on gg, could it possibly generate more vibrations than if it had had full mechanical connection?

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post #25 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuzzybear50 View Post

I used GG on a basement bedroom when I finished my basement. I used double drywall and GG on the ceiling and two walls (interior). I wanted to achieve sound blockage between the bedroom and an adjacent gameroom. I insulated heavily in the ceiling joists and the interior walls as well and it works great. I plan to use it again when I start my theater in the next couple of months.
Did you float either the two interior bedroom walls, or drywall, or just screw the drywall to the studs? Were your studs on 16" or 24" centers and was it a standard 4" wall or 6"? On your planned HT, will you isolate the walls or drywall (hat channel), or build a room within a room - so to speak?

Rick

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post #26 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 10:00 AM
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It would be interesting to measure the noise floor for both of our rooms inside/outside.  If you consider interior/exterior wall thickness.........we are essential using 4 layers each.  I have two layers inside and two layers outside with 2 X 6 framing/R-24 insulation, both with green glue but my exterior room walls are just GG and screwed.  I'm assuming you only used 1 layer outside of room with 5/8 inch DW.

I can attest.............4 layers of 5/8 inch do a solid job.

3 walls of my room have a concrete wall behind them. The last wall is triple layer on the inside of the theater and a single layer on the outside. The single layer is 1/2" drywall but it is a double wall. THe wall is 9" thick to so I could fit my bookshelf speakers in the wall.


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post #27 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 12:24 PM
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I did the room within a room, hat channel on the ceilings, 5/8 DD GG all around. Was vey quiet in the room - all sound coming into it was through the entry way. And then I cut the holes for the can lights. Now I can hear lots of sound from above.
SO, was it worth it? Dont know. I learned a few things using it, not unhappy that I did it - I'm more disappointed that I didn't think through the light situation more thoroughly.
One thing I will add - for doors I've found that getting melamine fire rated doors helps tremendously with sound. They are very dense, and a fire door is made to completely seal around it.
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post #28 of 30 Old 03-26-2014, 12:56 PM
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no Backer Boxes for them lights = mad.gif


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post #29 of 30 Old 03-27-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

Thanks I have stalled due to the clean up after our ice storm and loss of power for 4 days. It has been a mess down her in the south. We are not supposed to get ice storms. There are a lot of broken trees on 5 eek.gif acres. After our cruse in April I will finish the room. cool.gif My wife works Sundays and asked why I am in there watching movies on rainy days vise finishing the room. rolleyes.gif

About your question if you wanted a nice and quiet room let me give you another example. We put an in-law suite into our house which shares a wall with my great room. I planned for my TV to be on this wall in the great room and I was not able to convince my wife we needed to completely soundproof this wall but she did let me have the contractor put R13 into the walls. I insured that no outlets for power and data shared the same stud cavity and used putty pads on the boxes. I had the builder put 5/8” DW on both sides. It is not decoupled and no GG or second layer of DW. My Daughter and her husband live with us and are using that room. She says that she can still hear us when she is in the room and we are watching TV but it is muffled. I do have a ZVOX - Z-Base 555 2.1-Ch. Home Theater Speaker System 70W sound platform which has 5 speakers and an on board 5 ½” sub-woofer which goes down to 45HZ. This is just at normal evening listening levels. If we put a move in and turn it up than she needs to turn her TV volume up. Since I used Spray foam in the Attic neither the great room or the bed room ceiling have insulation. The ceiling DW is 1/2". If R19 was used in the ceiling with 3/4" DW than maybe that would be better as to reduce the flanking. Note the great room ceiling is 13 ft and the insulation on the wall goes all the way up. The Bed room ceiling is 9’. This may help with flanking but no way to know.

If you were to put 5/8” DW everywhere both sides of all walls used the putty pads on the outlets and insulated all the walls and ceiling that would be better then nothing. Also use a 1 ¾” solid core door we put in a solid door but it was just the standard size. At that point clips channel GG and another layer of 5/8” DW is only going to be around $1500 depending on size of room.

I am debating on putting GG and another layer of DW in the bed room and may if my mother moves in.

Bill - I combined this reply with another response I was writing offline, so apologizes if some of it is redundant.

I understand what you're saying, and I've stated on more than one occasion that my room space is not ideal, and that I'm not necessarily seeking a 'totally' sealed or isolated room. But I believe there are some positive principles that I can still employ that would help in damping the room by absorbing as much as possible before the sound hits the studs and is flanked off. As much as I've been reading, I still haven't read anyone that suggests... If you can't do x with your walls or ceiling, than the best alternative is y.

Just to reiterate - according to the fundamentals of soundproofing as generally adopted and in the order of being most effective;

(1) Decoupling
(2) Adding mass
(3) Damping
(4) Absorption

My space... It is in the basement, at the opposite end of the house where 95% of the 'real' living takes place. The 2 exterior walls of the room extend to the 1st floor and share the walls of the space directly above which is used about 5% of the time and has no second floor above it - vaulted ceiling. What little foot-fall sound there will in that space will be on a carpeted floor. All the bedrooms are up on the 2nd floor at the other end of the house. The other two interior walls of the room only share a small hallway and, my electronics shop, and opening into the rec room of the basement. There will no living space on the opposite sides of my interior walls. Only the front and left side wall are independent new walls. The front wall being 6" alternating studs. So, while my space may not be unique, my design decisions are being based on the characteristics of the space in my particular settings with the rest of the home, the multi-purpose rm objectives and within certain budget constraints - as are most projects.

Since my original concept has been to build more of a multi-purpose space for office work, audio listening room, and HT, it is not a home theater space exclusively. So.... it seems to me if I can't decouple the room physically from my existing structure, the only approach I know is to add mass, damp down, and absorb as much of the vibrations as possible getting into the super structure and minimize the flanking affect of the walls into the floor joists. This I figured was the best strategy to use. Maybe not ideal, but worth the effort. BTW, building a room within a room was just not physically possible, and even floating the drywall will confine my small space more than desired.

Now to the chosen approach....

Walls: I do plan on using 5/8" DW/GG/DW on both sides of the front 6" wall with insulation inside. The other interior wall (4") will be DW/GG/DW on the inside, and just a single layer of DW on the outside with insulation. The two exterior walls will be DW/GG/DW. Since there are two large windows I may elect to build some window plugs later if necessary.

Ceiling: I know that a drop acoustic ceiling is the biggest hole in my fish-tank (as you say), but since it will not directly transmit sound via the floor-joists, it will allow for more sound to escape. If that becomes a significant issue I still may be able to add additional mass somehow on top of the ceiling tiles along with appropriate amounts of insulation.

Door: Another sound escape route will be my french doors. I'm in the process of investigating them, just haven't had the time to visit some local, custom places to discuss and see what's available out there. I will try and get the heaviest doors I can and I'm not opposed to treating the inside of them with the appropriate acoustic material and green glue if it will make a difference. I guess it largely depends on how much sound is escaping under normal usage. I figure the doors could be replaced down the road with better ones if absolutely necessary.

Inside Treatments: I also plan to treat the room with acoustic wall panels to help dial-in the sound. This will include bass traps in the front corners as necessary. It will be carpeted with window treatments although I have not decided on exactly what I want to use - for both appearance and acoustic considerations. There are two smaller partial walls that will have cabinet work on them.

Lighting: I've decided on can lights attached to the runners of the suspended ceiling. Not sure, how to add backer boxes, but I'll research more. They are IC (Insulation Contact) rated cans. How do backer boxes function to allow the heat to escape? Two wall sconces.

Other: I have no HVAC duct-work to contend with, and only two overhead hot water pipes that have been treated. The boiler is at the other end of the room 60' away in an enclosed space.

I'm sure I missed something, but that sums up where I am. I'm having a in-progress site visit later today with the Electrical Inspector to ensure I'm doing everything to code. smile.gif BTW, both my inspectors are very nice guys and have provided me with a wealth of free advice - pre-starting this project. Don't want any surprises from them for sure.

Rick

Edit: If I decide to start a thread about my build I'll put under the proper category.

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post #30 of 30 Old 03-28-2014, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by redjr View Post

Just to reiterate - according to the fundamentals of soundproofing as generally adopted and in the order of being most effective;

(1) Decoupling
(2) Adding mass
(3) Damping
(4) Absorption

The 2 exterior walls of the room extend to the 1st floor and share the walls of the space directly above which is used about 5% of the time and has no second floor above it - vaulted ceiling. All the bedrooms are up on the 2nd floor at the other end of the house.

with a vaulted ceiling and all bed rooms at other end of house on second floor is there a loft of some kind at the top of the steps with hall way going off of this loft? I am just asking because low freq sound will travel up the wall and through the floor into that large open area making it to the bed rooms I would think.

The other two interior walls of the room only share a small hallway and, my electronics shop, and opening into the rec room of the basement. There will no living space on the opposite sides of my interior walls. Only the front and left side wall are independent new walls.

If these are not built yet I would consider decoupling with !B-3 brackets or something simular

The front wall being 6" alternating studs. So, while my space may not be unique, my design decisions are being based on the characteristics of the space in my particular settings with the rest of the home, the multi-purpose rm objectives and within certain budget constraints - as are most projects.

Since my original concept has been to build more of a multi-purpose space for office work, audio listening room, and HT, it is not a home theater space exclusively. So.... it seems to me if I can't decouple the room physically from my existing structure, the only approach I know is to add mass, damp down, and absorb as much of the vibrations as possible getting into the super structure and minimize the flanking affect of the walls into the floor joists. This I figured was the best strategy to use. Maybe not ideal, but worth the effort. BTW, building a room within a room was just not physically possible, and even floating the drywall will confine my small space more than desired.

Now to the chosen approach....
give us some pictures of the area
Walls: I do plan on using 5/8" DW/GG/DW on both sides of the front 6" wall with insulation inside. The other interior wall (4") will be DW/GG/DW on the inside, and just a single layer of DW on the outside with insulation. The two exterior walls will be DW/GG/DW. Since there are two large windows I may elect to build some window plugs later if necessary.
agian if walls are not already built use the 1B3 brackets like my decoupled wall thay are not expensive and go every 48"

Ceiling: I know that a drop acoustic ceiling is the biggest hole in my fish-tank (as you say), but since it will not directly transmit sound via the floor-joists, it will allow for more sound to escape. If that becomes a significant issue I still may be able to add additional mass somehow on top of the ceiling tiles along with appropriate amounts of insulation.
look and the sound proffing sticky you can add GG/DW as many layers as you like to the bottom of sub floor between floor joists
Door: Another sound escape route will be my french doors. I'm in the process of investigating them, just haven't had the time to visit some local, custom places to discuss and see what's available out there. I will try and get the heaviest doors I can and I'm not opposed to treating the inside of them with the appropriate acoustic material and green glue if it will make a difference. I guess it largely depends on how much sound is escaping under normal usage. I figure the doors could be replaced down the road with better ones if absolutely necessary.
Check some exterior French doors they will already be installed in the door frame and have seals you could get high E gas between the window plains and also lovers in the window that will help with light control. This all adds mass if it is sealed for exterior walls then it will be better sealed for sound

Inside Treatments: I also plan to treat the room with acoustic wall panels to help dial-in the sound. This will include bass traps in the front corners as necessary. It will be carpeted with window treatments although I have not decided on exactly what I want to use - for both appearance and acoustic considerations. There are two smaller partial walls that will have cabinet work on them.

Lighting: I've decided on can lights attached to the runners of the suspended ceiling. Not sure, how to add backer boxes, but I'll research more. They are IC (Insulation Contact) rated cans. How do backer boxes function to allow the heat to escape? Two wall sconces.
did not do backer boxes but I think if you build them for the recomended distances 3" around the can you should be good
Other: I have no HVAC duct-work to contend with, and only two overhead hot water pipes that have been treated. The boiler is at the other end of the room 60' away in an enclosed space.
you will want to get some cool air in there some how
I'm sure I missed something, but that sums up where I am. I'm having a in-progress site visit later today with the Electrical Inspector to ensure I'm doing everything to code. smile.gif BTW, both my inspectors are very nice guys and have provided me with a wealth of free advice - pre-starting this project. Don't want any surprises from them for sure.

Rick

Edit: If I decide to start a thread about my build I'll put under the proper category.


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