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post #271 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 05:14 PM
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Looks good Jamis,

What kind of issues with the plexi, scratches?
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post #272 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 05:25 PM
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Looks sweet. Nice job on keeping them all the same height too
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post #273 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Looks good Jamis,

What kind of issues with the plexi, scratches?

One had a scratch, the other two each had a cracked/broken corner.
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post #274 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

Looks sweet. Nice job on keeping them all the same height too

I just measured off the ceiling.
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post #275 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 06:15 PM
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Looking good. Aside from a few, most of my posters are older. It's cool with the newer movies.

Did they come with two sheets of plexi per frame? The ones I got did and I left them covered in the blue protective sheet. That way when the ones out front get scratched up, I can swap them out for the fresh sheet.
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post #276 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Only one sheet of plexi, the paper insert, and the cardboard backer per frame. Two sheets of plexi would definitely save a call as I'd just put the bad sheets behind the poster.

I was going to do some older classics, but many are non-standard sizes and I wanted to keep the frames the same.
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post #277 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 07:34 PM
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Looking good.

Jamis, whats in the refrigerator?
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post #278 of 958 Old 11-11-2008, 11:11 PM
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Jamis,
As I said before, congratulations on your excellent setup. Now, as you have had the SMX screen + AE3000 for a couple of weeks or so, what do you think in terms of screen contrast / brightness? I have seen your screenshots, which are really exciting, but what about ambient light? Say, are you able to watch sports with enough lights be able to move around your room (for a cold one), yet still not mess up the video contrast?

Since the Panny 3K has the very convenient zoom/focus memory feature, I am more than ever inclined towards getting a 2:35:1 screen for CH movies and 16:9 sports and such. But getting into the 136" diagonal (10'+ wide) range, will pretty much require an AT screen, since it would actually block the L and R speakers.

That's why I am leaning towards the 1.16 gain AT SMX, as I've read is one of the best in terms of brightness and sound. What's your take on these matters?

-Bill
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post #279 of 958 Old 11-12-2008, 04:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezug View Post

Looking good.

Jamis, whats in the refrigerator?

Mostly soda and seltzer water. The freezer has ice and beer glasses.

The second poster picture has a tiny glimpse of the kegerator... which is where the magic happens.
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post #280 of 958 Old 11-12-2008, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmac View Post

Jamis,
As I said before, congratulations on your excellent setup. Now, as you have had the SMX screen + AE3000 for a couple of weeks or so, what do you think in terms of screen contrast / brightness? I have seen your screenshots, which are really exciting, but what about ambient light? Say, are you able to watch sports with enough lights be able to move around your room (for a cold one), yet still not mess up the video contrast?

Since the Panny 3K has the very convenient zoom/focus memory feature, I am more than ever inclined towards getting a 2:35:1 screen for CH movies and 16:9 sports and such. But getting into the 136" diagonal (10'+ wide) range, will pretty much require an AT screen, since it would actually block the L and R speakers.

That's why I am leaning towards the 1.16 gain AT SMX, as I've read is one of the best in terms of brightness and sound. What's your take on these matters?

-Bill


For things like TV, the contrast is fine. We usually watch TV or play video games with the lights on low (enough for my wife to actually read her book at the same time). Those sports screen shots on the previous page were under our typical lighting. I have no complaints, though I'm also not the pickiest person when it comes to these things (for example, masking still isn't a priority for me). I am still running with mostly out of the box settings for colors, sharpness, brightness, contrast, etc (normal color mode).

For movies, we turn all the lights off except the riser step light... this is more for ambiance than to help the projector brightness/contrast in the zoomed out 2.35 mode, though it does help in that regard as well.

If your room is light controlled like mine and your throw isn't too far (mine is 17')... I think you'll be fine. My screen (129" wide viewable) is just slightly larger than what you are considering.
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post #281 of 958 Old 11-12-2008, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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post #282 of 958 Old 11-12-2008, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post



How did you staple your GOM on the screen wall? Particularly at the floor.
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post #283 of 958 Old 11-12-2008, 06:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtheater View Post

How did you staple your GOM on the screen wall? Particularly at the floor.


I built a frame and stapled the GOM to that. The frame is velcro'd to the four 2x4 boxes you can kind of see the tops of in that picture you quoted.

If I take the screen down, I can simply pull the whole GOM wrapped panel out as well. The bottom of the screen simply leans against the top of that panel.

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post #284 of 958 Old 11-13-2008, 05:34 AM
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Jamis, question for ya.

What is the distance that you allowed from the back of your first row of seats to the front of the second row of seats? And, is there plenty of room for the rear row to recline without touching the back of the first row with your feet? Just trying to get some idea. Thanks.

Tom
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post #285 of 958 Old 11-13-2008, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post

Jamis, question for ya.

What is the distance that you allowed from the back of your first row of seats to the front of the second row of seats? And, is there plenty of room for the rear row to recline without touching the back of the first row with your feet? Just trying to get some idea. Thanks.

Tom

The riser is 7' deep and the front row is right up against the edge of it. There isn't enough room to comfortably walk between the rows if someone is reclined in the back row, but everyone can fully recline comfortably without bothering the people in the front row.
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post #286 of 958 Old 11-13-2008, 10:37 PM
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I'm continually amazed at the imagination and craftsmanship displayed on this part of the forum. Your basement project is one of my favorites to date. I really like the flow from the kitchen to the bar and then to the theater seating; it will make for some great parties.

I don't have the luxury of a basement (they are a rarity in southern California) but I will have a small spare bedroom in a year so that I'd like to convert it to a dedicated theater. I have room for just one row of seating, but if there is room I'd like to add a bar and stools like yours. How much room would you allow for your bar and someone siting at it (front of the bar to back of the stool)? Thanks!
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post #287 of 958 Old 11-14-2008, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjr858 View Post

I'm continually amazed at the imagination and craftsmanship displayed on this part of the forum. Your basement project is one of my favorites to date. I really like the flow from the kitchen to the bar and then to the theater seating; it will make for some great parties.

I don't have the luxury of a basement (they are a rarity in southern California) but I will have a small spare bedroom in a year so that I'd like to convert it to a dedicated theater. I have room for just one row of seating, but if there is room I'd like to add a bar and stools like yours. How much room would you allow for your bar and someone siting at it (front of the bar to back of the stool)? Thanks!

I would probably say an absolute minimum of 36" from the front edge of the bar to the wall. And even there, if you have more than 3 stools, and people sitting at the ends, the middle stools will probably be inaccessible.
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post #288 of 958 Old 11-14-2008, 07:27 AM
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jamis,

Looks good. I too think that the HD football screen shots show more about how the setup looks "real world" It may just be that all of the other screen shots are overused and HD TV just looks better because it is something different. Regardless your theater looks sweet and the video setup is simply a WOW! Excellent Job!

Quick question and you may have covered this somewhere else but I have missed it. How much distance is there between the wall and the front of the screen. Or I guess a better way is how much space do you have for your speakers between the screen and the wall?

Regards,

RTROSE

My (slower than molasses) HT build here.
Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
Enjoying my "almost done" theater.
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post #289 of 958 Old 11-14-2008, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

jamis,

Looks good. I too think that the HD football screen shots show more about how the setup looks "real world" It may just be that all of the other screen shots are overused and HD TV just looks better because it is something different. Regardless your theater looks sweet and the video setup is simply a WOW! Excellent Job!

Quick question and you may have covered this somewhere else but I have missed it. How much distance is there between the wall and the front of the screen. Or I guess a better way is how much space do you have for your speakers between the screen and the wall?

Regards,

RTROSE


Thanks for the compliments!

There is about 18.25" from the wall to the edge of the lower GOM panel. The screen sits just in front of the the GOM panel (actually leans against it).

It's enough space, though it made picking a subwoofer to put behind it tricky. The SVS cylinders are ~16-17" in diameter, so it worked out. Many of the other models I was considering (Epik Castle, MFW-15, etc) wouldn't fit or would have to face to the side instead of towards the seating.

The 18" also limited my speaker selection a little bit, but only minimally. There were probably 2-3 speakers I was thinking about that were ruled out because they'd be too close to the rear wall (Axiom M80, AV123 Rockets, etc).

Another 3-4 inches would have been ideal, but I'd say 18-19" is an absolute minimum if you plan to put full sized speakers back there.
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post #290 of 958 Old 11-15-2008, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Just for mn_hokie... some updated pics of my acoustic panels.


Each of the two panels is actually three 20"x40" acoustic panels mounted to a 1/4" sheet of plywood that is screwed to the walls. The panel assembly on the left covers a window.

I plan to order four more 20x40 panels and mount them vertically under each side/rear speaker.

I am also in the market for a nice DVD storage shelf/cabinet.





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post #291 of 958 Old 11-15-2008, 08:13 PM
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Hey I just noticed your upscale solution to place your center at the appropriate height. I must say I'm impressed that it is even color coordinated to your decor. Kudos.

Actually I was wondering what your impressions are of your cylinder sub. I know your choices were somewhat limited due to your space requirements and want to know if your sub "cuts the mustard". I am toying of now doing an AT setup and would need to go almost exactly with the same dimensions as you possibly squeaking an extra inch or two more than what you did. I guess there is always the possibility of going with 2 cylinders if one just doesn't hack it.

Regards,

RTROSE

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Now a Certified Carpet Counselor and Plumbing Counselor (Self given titles - pay no attention).
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post #292 of 958 Old 11-15-2008, 10:49 PM
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Jamis,

Excellent build!!! I'm sure your wait paid off as you have experienced your HT for 2 weeks now. Congratulations!!! It is one of my favorite among other HT. My basement layout is very similar to yours (3/4th of your basement) but the furnace and heater equipment came in the middle and thus, have to turn my HT to the right angle side and have to compromise with a bedroom in your HT area. See my layout here.

I am at a stage where I am running AV cables and laying my 2" conduit pipes to my screen and PJ location. How many different locations did you run your conduits from your component rack? How did you finish the ends (with a wall plate?) - can you post some pics, if possible?

I might bug you for more information as I am still in the process. Please bear with me

Ramsi
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post #293 of 958 Old 11-16-2008, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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I actually got two more of those 'custom speaker stands' and put one under each of the L/R speakers as well to better align the tweeters!

The SVS PC-Ultra13 is a beast of a sub. Very powerful. It is equivalent to the box version of their biggest sub. When I first set it up in the living room, it was shaking the pictures on the wall with ease. We have it dialed way back and it has lots of punch in my 4000+ cubic foot room (including the open kitchenette).

There are very few subs in this class that have a depth or width of 18" or less. In the few cases I found one that might work, it would have to fire to the side and not towards the seats. Some of the others I considered were a pair of AV123 MFW-15's, an Epik Castle, and the smaller SVS cylinders. The Ultra was originally out of my price range, but I found a good deal on a used one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Hey I just noticed your upscale solution to place your center at the appropriate height. I must say I'm impressed that it is even color coordinated to your decor. Kudos.

Actually I was wondering what your impressions are of your cylinder sub. I know your choices were somewhat limited due to your space requirements and want to know if your sub "cuts the mustard". I am toying of now doing an AT setup and would need to go almost exactly with the same dimensions as you possibly squeaking an extra inch or two more than what you did. I guess there is always the possibility of going with 2 cylinders if one just doesn't hack it.

Regards,

RTROSE

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post #294 of 958 Old 11-16-2008, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramsi_2000 View Post

Jamis,

Excellent build!!! I'm sure your wait paid off as you have experienced your HT for 2 weeks now. Congratulations!!! It is one of my favorite among other HT. My basement layout is very similar to yours (3/4th of your basement) but the furnace and heater equipment came in the middle and thus, have to turn my HT to the right angle side and have to compromise with a bedroom in your HT area. See my layout here.

I am at a stage where I am running AV cables and laying my 2" conduit pipes to my screen and PJ location. How many different locations did you run your conduits from your component rack? How did you finish the ends (with a wall plate?) - can you post some pics, if possible?

I might bug you for more information as I am still in the process. Please bear with me

Ramsi

Looks like you have a verynice space to play with. I am definately glad I did a semi 'open' concept. More of an entertaining space than a closed off theater space.

I ran 1/2" blue ENT conduit to all 7 speaker locations and one for the subwoofer. I terminated them all with speaker face plates (except the subwoofer, which was an RCA connector), though I had to remove them for the rear/surround speakers so they could sit flush against the wall.

I used a 'bulk cable' plate for the 2" conduit run to the projector. Basically a face plate with a hole in it for all the cables I ran to come out of.

You can see the blue ENT running to the front and back here:




Conduit terminating in the closet:



You can see the speaker terminals here... I painted them black eventually.


You can see the bulk cable plate here:
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post #295 of 958 Old 11-16-2008, 07:28 PM
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Thanks Jamis for your quick response. If I understand this correctly, you have your conduits run to the front and side speakers, right? Since you have mentioned, I had to remove them for the rear/surround speakers, I am assuming you have removed the rear conduits in your design to allow them mount properly. I will try to do the same way.

One more question, can you provide me some specifications and guidelines in preparing the front stage (C front on the floor)? My wife really liked the idea and would like to have one for our screen. Thx
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post #296 of 958 Old 11-16-2008, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

Just for mn_hokie... some updated pics of my acoustic panels.


Each of the two panels is actually three 20"x40" acoustic panels mounted to a 1/4" sheet of plywood that is screwed to the walls. The panel assembly on the left covers a window.

I plan to order four more 20x40 panels and mount them vertically under each side/rear speaker.

I am also in the market for a nice DVD storage shelf/cabinet.






Thanks for the shots. I've got the website bookmarked now for when I'm ready to treat my room
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post #297 of 958 Old 11-17-2008, 04:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramsi_2000 View Post

Thanks Jamis for your quick response. If I understand this correctly, you have your conduits run to the front and side speakers, right? Since you have mentioned, I had to remove them for the rear/surround speakers, I am assuming you have removed the rear conduits in your design to allow them mount properly. I will try to do the same way.

One more question, can you provide me some specifications and guidelines in preparing the front stage (C front on the floor)? My wife really liked the idea and would like to have one for our screen. Thx


I just removed the speaker terminals (wall plates) since they stick out from the wall. I basically left the hole in the drywall for the speaker wire to hang out and then covered it with the speaker itself. I had to do this for the rears and sides because these speakers mount flush to the wall and the terminals stick out a bit. I have a faull 7.1 setup running.
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post #298 of 958 Old 11-17-2008, 05:58 AM
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Looks great! The clock is just about to strike 12 as I'm supposed to order my equipment today and I'm seriously contemplating going CIH and switching to scope. My room is 165"w x 252"L (not including 18" behind false wall)x89"H. Was originally going with Stewart 110" ST. If I did go scope, what size would you recommend (I suppose I'll have to ante up for AT as well). Thanks!
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post #299 of 958 Old 11-17-2008, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Looks great! The clock is just about to strike 12 as I'm supposed to order my equipment today and I'm seriously contemplating going CIH and switching to scope. My room is 165"w x 252"L (not including 18" behind false wall)x89"H. Was originally going with Stewart 110" ST. If I did go scope, what size would you recommend (I suppose I'll have to ante up for AT as well). Thanks!

Well... my screen is just a hair larger on the 16:9 area than the one you were planning for. Just add on the extra width for 2.37:1 and you have essentially have my screen. My screen is 129" wide (viewable) and 136" wide with frame just to give you an idea. My room was height constrained, so I went with the largest 16:9 screen I could and simply added the width to get 2.37:1... it just happened to fit perfectly in the 137" between the bumpouts on my screen wall.

I basically have the largest screen that would comfortably fit in my room. I couldn't go bigger if I wanted to, which helps on upgraditis.

My seating is at approximately 11' and 17' and we like it... the room is 13'4" wide which is pretty close to yours. The front row might be too close for some on the 2.35 material, but I don't mind it. We usually sit in the front row for most things.

You'd definitely need to lose the prosceniums (or greatly reduce them) in your room to go wider on the screen. I have NO regrets going CIH and love the AT screen as well.

Are you still planning on the rs20? Have you given thought to a lens or just zooming? Considered the AE3000? Are you going to do any masking?
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post #300 of 958 Old 11-17-2008, 06:39 AM
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To add to what Jamis is saying and quickly figure out the width that you need queendvd,
just take the width of your viewable image and multiply by 1.33 so if your 16:9 screen is 100" wide 100 x 1.33 = 133 Wide <----> scope screen.
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