Pittman Theatre Construction Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone, I just want to say I am amazed at all of your home theatre projects on here. Absolutely amazing. I wish I had the space and the money that a lot of you seem to have.

I'll set up where im at, I am happy with my setup as far as sound goes, I have a pioneer elite 1016 receiver, JM labs Speakers all around and a decent sub. I have a 360, wii and PS3 that will have to be incorporated as well as a 62" Toshiba DLP TV. The TV will be used for now until I can afford a projector but I plan to wire everything to be ready.

The attached is my existing Autocad plan of my basement (previously developed) that I want to convert part of into a dedicated theatre room. I have also included some pics as well as what I plan to do.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated keeping in mind I really dont have a budget for this(hahah). Sorry the second picture is rotated.







Thanks

Ryan

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post #2 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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What should I put between my wall and the concrete floor??

Thanks

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post #3 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 05:21 PM
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Dry lock seams to be good for the floor but they make a foam strip you lay down between the wall and concrete.

Nate

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post #4 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoOiler View Post

What should I put between my wall and the concrete floor??

Thanks

OK, so from the second diagram, it looks like you're adding a wall there (in red) and moving the laundry room wall. Based on your PM and you diagrams, I think thats where you're going. I don't understand the question above though. Are you talking about for sound isolation? The new walls will require pressure treated lumber on the bottom plate only. I don't think you need to add anything else unless code requires it.

There's Dricore (http://www.dricore.com) which is like a subfloor that will help keep the room warmer and protect against moisture. Youcan actually put that down and then build the new walls on top of it. People swear by it, but its not cheap.

Bud
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post #5 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I dont have any problem with moisture so the drycore is probably a little overkill. Is pressure treated required?? Reason im asking is i removed the existing wall between laundry room and theatre and it was just regular.

Yes you understand my sketches (acad in a quick). I am adding the new red wall (planned staggered stud) and the purple one between theatre and family room (staggered stud). The other 2 walls of the theatre already have drywall and have been finished and painted. I was planning on adding another layer of drywall to each of those.

Does that sound like a plan?

Thanks

Ryan

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post #6 of 301 Old 01-29-2007, 07:41 PM
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Gotcha. If you're double drywalling (for sound isolation) consider the Green Glue route. Helps to cut down the vibrations/sound transfer by 10x (or something like that). Others can pipe in here. Also make sure you at least insulate the new walls. What about teh ceiling? I assume that's already completed? Do you know if there is insulation in the ceiling?

Pressure treated is code down here, but its a local thing. I'd be surprised if it wasn't. Remember, its on required for the board that touches the cement.

Bud
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post #7 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 12:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I am gonna double drywall both walls that I am making and insulating both. I dont think I can go the green glue route..too expensive. Absolute soundproofing is not that essential the whole fam will probably be in there most of the time or in the adjoining playroom anyways.

Here are some progress demo pics from the past few nights demo...enjoy..hahah' Dont mind all the Sprite cans, cutting out aspertame, and caffeine.

BEFORE..........


DURING......



DONE.....TIME FOR CLEANUP


Ryan

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post #8 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Actually Just wondering if anyone could suggest a set of slimline surround speakers I should pickup? Want to integrate into a column, but my existing are a little deep.

Also what is the average price of this linacoustic stuff?


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post #9 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoOiler View Post

Thanks guys. I dont have any problem with moisture so the drycore is probably a little overkill. Is pressure treated required??

Here's a reference from the international building code (parts of which could be superceded my your local municipality's code, but most of which should apply), backing up what chinadog mentioned - sole plates over cement need to be pressure treated lumber:

http://www.conradfp.com/irc.shtml
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post #10 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 12:34 PM
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wow. now that is demolition. I just looked back at your plan and see that you are going to move the wall 3 feet back. Got-it. What are you going to do with the utility sink? Also, it looks like you might have to move the dryer exhaust tubing too.

Axiom speakers would be a good speaker to look at for in column use. Depending on how deep the columns will be, you might look at Ascends too.

Linacoustic generally runs around 200 bucks for a roll of 100 feet.

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post #11 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thats actually the bar sink. That will be demo'd tonight hopefully. yeah I got a little crazy. THats how I make myself start something. Put a hole through it. Thats how i renovated my upstairs. HHAHAH

Where can you get the Linacoustic from? Online?

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post #12 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 03:00 PM
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Linacoustic is available locally at most HVAC stores.

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post #13 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a friend here at work, looking to see if he can get it wholesale for me. 100' roll x 48" wide im guessing??

Thanks

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post #14 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 03:39 PM
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That laundry area would make a great IB cavity!
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post #15 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 04:18 PM
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Technically it's 47.5". Make sure you get the 1" stuff. Oh, not sure what Jason's been smokin'.. its more like 185 plus tax when I bought it (and his!). I hear it went up some, so may be in the 225.00 range.

http://images12.fotki.com/v251/photo...00_0010-vi.jpg

Bud
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post #16 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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What is an IB cavity?? I havent a clue when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks

Ryan

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post #17 of 301 Old 01-30-2007, 08:53 PM
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IB is "infinite baffle". In general, the bigger the box for the subwoofer the more pressure it can apply for a given wattage. For instance, the Velodyne SPL series subs have tiny little enclosures and need huge amps (2000 watts) to keep up with a normal 500 watt sub. And IB takes this logic and goes the other way with it.

An IB setup uses a separate room or even the entire attic as the subwoofer "box".

BTW, nice destruction there.
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post #18 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Technically it's 47.5". Make sure you get the 1" stuff. Oh, not sure what Jason's been smokin'.. its more like 185 plus tax when I bought it (and his!). I hear it went up some, so may be in the 225.00 range.

http://images12.fotki.com/v251/photo...00_0010-vi.jpg

Bud


I was having a bad day yesterday. I think all of the stain fumes are getting to me...

I don't think the laundry room would be a good place for an IB cavity. It would probably rattle everything in that room and that definitely add unwanted sounds to LFE scenes. Not to mention the wife would think that the washing machine was broken and shaking the house in the process as she frantically calls the repair man.

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post #19 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, probably. Im not huge into too much bass anyways. I was actually talking to a local guy here in Edmonton for a couple of hours last night. Very informative.

They do all the big wigs theatres here in the city. He gave me a few pointers.

What does everyone think of this projector Panasonic PT-AX100



Thanks

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post #20 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeoOiler View Post

What does everyone think of this projector Panasonic PT-AX100

If I were to run out and get another projector, it would probably be that one. As is, I've got a few more years of life left in my Sony HS10.
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post #21 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 07:59 AM
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That projector has very good reviews on Projector Centrals website. 19 people reviewed it for 4.5 stars out of 5.

Link

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post #22 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Im going to see what kind of price my friend can get it for me here at work. Should I wait and buy the projector when my room is framed, etc.??

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post #23 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 12:52 PM
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Yes. Wait. That should be one of the last things you buy. Price will most likely be down by the time your room is ready. You are looking at 3 - ??? months minimum.

If you want - there is a guy named Ben Harper on this forum. He has great prices on all kinds of Home Theater stuff. I buy all of my stuff from him. Let me know if you are interested in talking with him and I will give you his contact info. Good to have for when you are ready to buy stuff.

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post #24 of 301 Old 01-31-2007, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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What kind of stuff does he sell? See the problem is im in Edmonton Canada, and anything crossing the border I get screwed on.

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post #25 of 301 Old 02-01-2007, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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For my two new walls I need to build, should I use metal or wood framing??

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post #26 of 301 Old 02-02-2007, 08:12 AM
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Here's another theater with metal studs.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=707914

I would really look into it. If your going to hang cabinets there are certain "accessories" that may be needed. I don't beileve you can hang them directly to the metal studs. Different electrical boxes may be needed. You can't nail base board trim to metal studs, must use screws.

Benifits are also many. Easyer to move, lightweithg, no hole drilling needed for electrical, no saw dust.

Do some quick research, you'll find a ton of stuff on metal or steel studs. There are ways to do everything one would need to. It's probably just a matter of what your comfortable with. I have been considering metal studs, but have found that after lugging them into the basement, wood studs might be easier in the long run. Especially when trimming and hanging cabinets.
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post #27 of 301 Old 02-02-2007, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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If I am building a double wall. do you just put dryall on theouter of both, or do you put it in between as well.

im new to all of this

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post #28 of 301 Old 02-03-2007, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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So I started doing my double steel wall stud, do I leave a gap between the two walls?? Do I join them togther in anyway..

Please answer....building right now..

Thanks

ryan

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post #29 of 301 Old 02-05-2007, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey everyone got a nice bit done this weekend. Main double wall is up. Filled in Laundry room door. Making that a double wall as well.

Little bud helping Dad


VIEW FORM SCREEN AREA


EQUIPMENT RACK LOCATION



Any suggestions as I keep going??

Thanks
NEO

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post #30 of 301 Old 02-06-2007, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for the cavity under the stairs?? I am not really sure what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks
Ryan



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