Is my first coat of paint supposed to look like this? (pics inside) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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So last night I painted my first coat of paint and you can see every roller-mark on the wall. It looks really, REALLY bad but I think it's normal because I'm painting a very dark red.

Here are the pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jklimek...7594521014441/

I'm assuming I'll need another two coats of paint but hopefully no more. What do you think?

Also... if I'm painting my basement ceiling black, should I also paint the staircase ceiling black? ...or should I paint it red like the walls? (there is a picture of the staircase with the walls currently painted in the above link)

Thanks for your help... my theater is almost done!!
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post #2 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:04 AM
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Did you prime first? That would help give you a more even coat but dark colors in general need multiple coats to look smooth. You may be able to get away with 2 coats but it took 3 coats for my black screen wall. Good luck.
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post #3 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:05 AM
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I painted my sons room a burgundy color and I had to do three coats.....Easier to do it right the first time then to have to back and fix it...
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post #4 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:32 AM
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Like everyone else said, depends on the color but generally the darker the color the more coats you will need.

In my old house, I painted my bedroom a dark navy color over light blue and needed 4 coats to completely cover.

Usually, a tinted primer really helps.
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post #5 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:33 AM
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Red is one of the more difficult colors to paint with. It is advised to paint a grey prime coat when painting with red. If you don't, you may be in for three or four coats!
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post #6 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:40 AM
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They sell tinted primer for a reason. A buddy used 6 coats of red and still never got it right.
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post #7 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:46 AM
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This is what scares the heck out of me when considering painting my ceiling flat black.
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post #8 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:50 AM
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Red is usually semi-transparent. Using a tinted primer would have lessoned the number of coats, but, it's still a multiple coat job. Why do you think contractors like to use white or beige and have an up charge for colors?

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post #9 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 08:15 AM
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We painted our Dining room a burgundy color. We painted on top of the standard builder's bone color. The wall looked horrible after 1 coat. It looked good after 2 coats, but really needed 3 to get it right.

As for the ceiling flat black... I painted my theater celing flat black on top of white primer. I bought enough paint for 2 coats. I only needed one.

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post #10 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 08:40 AM
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I used "Chianti" red Behr paint for my theater. It is hard to get even coverage. In my case, it was a matter of showing sheetrock imperfections.

Suggestions (not all of which are applicable as you'e already started):

- Go over all drywall joints with your hand (not just your eyes). Make sure they are smooth to the touch

- Wipe down all your sheetrock for dust with a damp towel twice. Then do it again.

- Consider spraying if at all possible... I sprayed the primer and first two red coats. Then I rolled a final coat for a little texture.

- As others have mentioned: use a GOOD gray-tinted primer

- Consider using "Floetrol"... an additive that helps keep a wet edge when rolling (avaialable at Home Depot)

- When rolling, overlap strokes and keep a wet edge on the "direction" you are moving

Those can help with getting a good finish.

-Steve
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post #11 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 08:46 AM
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First off, I love that color choice, and btw, I was a professional painter.

The wall just needs additional coats. Working from the top down in 4x4 foot squares, try this. Dip the roller (wet) and paint a "W" on the wall. Dip the roller again (wet) and then go up and down with light pressure from top to bottom, slightly overlapping where you just went. That will speed you up. Always keep a wet roller and let it do the work (you shouldn't have to press hard). Also, it's possible you need a thicker roller cover. What nap is it? I always use at least a 1/2" nap roller, even on smooth surfaces (except when applying any gloss or alkyd product).

Also, and more importantly, what about the ceiling? You're supposed to do the ceiling first because it's sure to drip/spray on the wall when painting it. Also, if you think it's hard getting red to cover white, just wait until you try covering up that red you've gotten on the cieling. The ceiling paint should have overlapped on the walls, not vice-versa.

No worries though, that's going to look awesome when done.

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post #12 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 09:23 AM
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Oh no - not another Red paint thread. I had almost forgot about my saga - took 5 coats! But I was given bad advice - used a red tinted primer instead of a dark gray.

Looks like you have been given great advice so far.

Wish you luck

Cheers,
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post #13 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonDotCom View Post

Also, and more importantly, what about the ceiling? You're supposed to do the ceiling first because it's sure to drip/spray on the wall when painting it. Also, if you think it's hard getting red to cover white, just wait until you try covering up that red you've gotten on the cieling. The ceiling paint should have overlapped on the walls, not vice-versa.

Doh!

Should I paint the ceiling tonight and tomorrow night (if it needs a second coat), and then continue painting the walls?

If so, should I tape up the walls so the black from the ceiling doesn't get on them? I'm hoping this isn't a problem (eg. I can just paint the ceiling and get black on the top of the walls...)
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post #14 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 02:48 PM
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Why don't you use this as practice (without tape) and try to try to only go to the edge with the black? Since you need to cut in the wall again for the 2nd coat, you could clean up that line with the red if you go over at all. You could always tape if necessary but going that route might take up too much time.

By the way, you'll probably know if you love or hate the ceiling color once that one coat goes on. If it's too dark and makes the ceiling feel too low, you might try going with a shade of gray. It's really hard to tell from the pictures just how tall that ceiling is.

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post #15 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 02:54 PM
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yea when we painted my brothers room it looked like that until many coats were applied
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post #16 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scaesare View Post

- Consider using "Floetrol"... an additive that helps keep a wet edge when rolling (avaialable at Home Depot)

Two big thumbs up for Floetrol. Floetrol + a power roller is practically cheating.
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post #17 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 05:44 PM
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Quote:


I'm assuming I'll need another two coats of paint but hopefully no more. What do you think?

Also... if I'm painting my basement ceiling black, should I also paint the staircase ceiling black? ...or should I paint it red like the walls? (there is a picture of the staircase with the walls currently painted in the above link)

Thanks for your help... my theater is almost done!!

Looking good! Your theatre is one step behind mine... we just finished painting last week.
As for the Reds, we did a very dark red (CIL Drumbeat) on the display wall, and a slightly less dark red (CIL Rapture) on the other tree walls. SIX coats to get the depth of color right. But it was worth it... it looks great.

I would go black on the ceiling, it will provide a good contrast to the red. Black covers much better, I only had to do two coats on the ceiling, and mostly to properly cover all the stipple/popcorn pieces properly. Also, I can't quite tell from the photo if you have a textured ceiling. If so and you are using latex paint, you should prime the ceiling with an oil base primer.
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post #18 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 07:17 PM
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Before painting my theater dark red (burgandy) and dark blue, I asked here for advice. Based on the advice I got I first primed with a dark gray primer. Then I bought Benjamin Moore's premium paint. This stuff was $40 per gallon, but it was absolutly worth every penny. I could have quit after one coat it covered so well! I could see a few variations in coverage, and I had bought enough for two coats, so I went ahead and did two coats, but that was plenty. I'd much rather do less coats of an expensive paint like this than do many coats of a cheaper paint. After hearing all the horror stories about painting reds, I was very pleasantly surprised.

Guy
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post #19 of 30 Old 02-06-2007, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all of the excellent replies. You guys are amazing with your help!

Tonight I painted the ceiling (black) and I got a bunch of black paint on the red walls (eg. the corners). This is because I didn't use any tape so hopefully when I do my next two coats of red on the walls I'll cover that up. (hopefully!!)

I REALLY like the black ceiling though. I think it gives the room a nice modern look, and even though my ceilings are only 7 feet tall I don't feel as though it looks any smaller.
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post #20 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 07:14 AM
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My wife can do a perfect edge when cutting in near two surfaces. But I can't, so I cheat. I use one of those paint pads with two small rollers on the edge. Load it up with paint, skim off the excess, put the two rollers against the ceiling, and drag the pad across the wall. It gives a beautiful edge (if you keep the rollers clean).

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post #21 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegeek View Post

Two big thumbs up for Floetrol. Floetrol + a power roller is practically cheating.

Agreed!...until you have to clean the stupid power roll assembly!

Floetrol also makes spraying latex a viable solution.

-Steve
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post #22 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Man View Post

Before painting my theater dark red (burgandy) and dark blue, I asked here for advice. Based on the advice I got I first primed with a dark gray primer. Then I bought Benjamin Moore's premium paint. This stuff was $40 per gallon, but it was absolutly worth every penny. I could have quit after one coat it covered so well! I could see a few variations in coverage, and I had bought enough for two coats, so I went ahead and did two coats, but that was plenty. I'd much rather do less coats of an expensive paint like this than do many coats of a cheaper paint. After hearing all the horror stories about painting reds, I was very pleasantly surprised.
Guy

Yes, it's true that premium paints make a big difference. I almost always use Kelly Moore paints which are still $20-25/gal after my discount. If you're not doing a color change then the cheap paints at Home Depot are fine, but otherwise stick to the premium Benjamin Moore, Kelly Moore, etc. Behr products may have improved, but a couple years back that stuff was the worst. Their ultra pure white took 4 coats to hide, and their deep tint colors would get on your clothes if you rubbed the wall (dry paint)! I have had pretty good luck with their Ralph lauren line though... Ok I'm ranting

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post #23 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonDotCom View Post

Yes, it's true that premium paints make a big difference. I almost always use Kelly Moore paints which are still $20-25/gal after my discount. If you're not doing a color change then the cheap paints at Home Depot are fine, but otherwise stick to the premium Benjamin Moore, Kelly Moore, etc. Behr products may have improved, but a couple years back that stuff was the worst. Their ultra pure white took 4 coats to hide, and their deep tint colors would get on your clothes if you rubbed the wall (dry paint)! I have had pretty good luck with their Ralph lauren line though... Ok I'm ranting

Ben Moore is the way to go. You do get what you pay for.

I primed the walls with BM gray tint primer.





Then the BM Burgundy. 2 coats covered completely well. Very nice.








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post #24 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 12:21 PM
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It took 1 coat of primer and 3 coats of Plum Paint to do my room..pix in my sig. The first coat looked like ass, so don't be discouraged.
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post #25 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 01:58 PM
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How hard is it to un-black the ceiling? I'm leasing my current place and would really like to do this right, but I'll have to repaint the ceiling white when I leave.

Currently, I just deal with the reflections by ignoring them, although am I thinking of trying some cheap velour/satin-like material above the screen.

- Mike
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post #26 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RxMan1 View Post

This is what scares the heck out of me when considering painting my ceiling flat black.

Don't be afraid of flat black. I rolled one coat of Sherwin Williams over white paint and no primer. Is is perfect? No, but for one coat I've lived with it and it looks pretty good. Two coats would look perfect. Now, the red my Wife painted upstairs was an entirely different story similar to the OP's.

Scott
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post #27 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mh7519 View Post

How hard is it to un-black the ceiling? I'm leasing my current place and would really like to do this right, but I'll have to repaint the ceiling white when I leave.

Currently, I just deal with the reflections by ignoring them, although am I thinking of trying some cheap velour/satin-like material above the screen.

in your case I would try some cheap felt and velcro to cover the ceiling...painting over black when you leave will be a pain.
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post #28 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 03:45 PM
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Reds are a hard paint, the purple on my ceiling was a challenge. Even with a tinted primer it took about 6 coats but it was a really dark purple.

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post #29 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Kellogg View Post

Reds are a hard paint...

Dark reds and greens can be a challenge because the pigments are semi-transparent.

I have also had good results painting a dark brown or even black before painting red. My brother ignored my advice and ended up doing 5 coats.

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post #30 of 30 Old 02-07-2007, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital Man View Post

...Based on the advice I got I first primed with a dark gray primer. Then I bought Benjamin Moore's premium paint. This stuff was $40 per gallon, but it was absolutly worth every penny.
Guy

I wish I had known this tidbit... my advice was to do a deep tint primer (essentially a pink colored primer), which helped over the white primed drywall, but the gray makes more sense. Ah well.... the next HT build, all will be perfect.
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