I'm peeling off painter's tape but the paint is coming off!! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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As if I didn't have enough problems with my basement home theater, my paint is now peeling off.

To be more specific, the tape on the ceiling is peeling the paint off. In one section of my wall the tape actually peeled off a LARGE section of paint from the WALL! (not the ceiling)

Here are some pictures of exactly what I'm talking about:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jklimek...7594534658108/

So here are my questions...

1) How can I peel off the rest of the ceiling tape without removing the paint?

2) How can I patch up the LARGE section of missing paint from the wall? It's down the bare drywall. (I waited 24 hours between painting for those wondering)

Please help!
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post #2 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 05:03 PM
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1) go down the edge along the tape/paint line with a razor before you peel the tape off

2) sand it down and repaint it i guess?
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post #3 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 05:10 PM
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Maybe the paint under the tape wasn't completely dry? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause the paint not to stick to the primer. Or is the primer coming off too?

I only use blue painters tape. The blue masking tape is much easier to remove (less tack) than the old cream colored masking tape.

Hopefully a pro will post and help out.

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots. Me being one of them at times.

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post #4 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 06:46 PM
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That's the exact reason that you should always take off the painters tape after an hour of drying and no longer than 2 hours. It needs to be tacky enough to stick without running and not hard enough to tear off with the tape. Take it from me, I learned it the hard way...
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post #5 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 07:40 PM
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  • Yes, never use the cream stuff. Only low-tack tape (blue or green)
  • Always clean drywall dust off fresh drywall before painting. Sweep the wall, then wipe with a damp rag. (This was likely your problem.)
  • Always prime fresh drywall.
  • Remove tape as soon as possible - you should be able to take it off immediately after painting the area, certainly before paint has cured. (If you leave it for days, as it might say on the tape, you are asking for trouble.
  • Remove tape at 90 degree angle, at a moderate speed.

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post #6 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 07:51 PM
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Above all else, make sure you buy the low tack painter tape. The blue kind (never the cream) comes in different adhesion levels. Go with the lowest you can find. Its a tad bit more but will peal off cleanly. Just have to take an extra few minutes pressing it firmly against the wall (with a trowel or flat blade) to ensure a good seal. Otherwise it pulls off clean.
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post #7 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 07:51 PM
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It's not that hard to go without tape. I mostly just use tape for baseboards and that's only because they're so low and I can use the tape as a drip tray as well. It's easy to paint wall edges free hand. In your case, I would have painted the ceiling first (and used tape on the wall, just so the edges would go fast). After removing the tape from the wall, paint the red wall edge freehand with a good brush. It's neater and actually faster than doing all the taping and then removal of said tape.

As for your dilemna now, sand the peeled areas and re-paint - FREEHAND.

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post #8 of 33 Old 02-13-2007, 08:43 PM
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Is that a semi-gloss paint? I've never had that problem with a flat paint, but did have a little with some deco-painting that I did in semi-gloss...even using the blue painters tape and removing about 1 hour after painting.

I did just a free hand touch-up with quality paint brushes. (I.e. $5 each is not quality)

At no point in your rambling, incoherent post were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this forum is now dumber for having read it.

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post #9 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 06:17 AM
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I have had the same thing happen to me in a few spots, and I realized that it was definitely drywall dust that caused the paint not to stick like it did in other spots...and came off with the tape.

I would wait a few days until it is completely dry, use a razor blade and cut off any spots that are still loose back until you get a good adhesion that isn't lifting off. Lightly sand over the area. Fill, sand smooth, clean off the dust, prime and paint.

I don't really like talking about my flair

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post #10 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 06:29 AM
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This is exactly why I do not use painters tape. It will occassionally pull off paint, which really makes me mad. It will occassionally let some paint under it if not secured perfectly, which also makes me mad. With a little practice I am convinced anyone can paint a straight line that looks as good or better than a taped line, and in less time. The pros I have seen paint, don't use it either.

I will occassionally use it for really weird angles in which it is hard to get the brush angled right, but that is rare. Painters tape is great for other project around the house though, including taping where your screen will go, so I do have a few rolls at home

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post #11 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 06:29 AM
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Steps for good results:

Paint trim first......primer, followed by 2 coats of color

Let dry completely

Apply low tack painters tap to the trim.

Paint walls and ceiling......primer, followed by 2 coats of color.

Let paint dry......peel tape.

I have found that even the low tack tape will peel paint from walls, but not trim.
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post #12 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 06:46 AM
 
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What kind of paint did you use and what kind of paint was on the walls before, oil based or latex? Could be a huge problem for you.
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post #13 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 06:53 AM
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It's been said already but use the blue painter's tape for sensative surfaces. HD and Lowes both carry it. It runs around $9 per roll. And you have to let the paint fully dry before puting it on and peeling it off.

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post #14 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 07:25 AM
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Did you by any chance use Behr paint? That happened to me all the time when I was using Behr. No idea why. I switched to CIL and it's much better. I also learned to take the tape off earlier too (when I use tape).
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 08:23 AM
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-More pigment in the paint can weaken the adhesion and slow the curing time of the paint. Wait before you tape over new paint jobs.
-Some primers don't work as well with some paint brands.
-Use shellac based primers.
-Wash the surface before you paint.
-Some tapes have longer usage times, but it's better to remove it shortly after painting; peel the tape off at a sharp angle.
-Keep the room cool, the glue on the tape can get gooey when it warms, thus bonding with the paint.

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post #16 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by advertguy2 View Post

Did you by any chance use Behr paint? That happened to me all the time when I was using Behr. No idea why. I switched to CIL and it's much better. I also learned to take the tape off earlier too (when I use tape).

That's funny 'cause I only use Behr and have yet to have a problem if I give the paint time to dry and use the sensative surface tape.

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post #17 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 08:51 AM
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Looking at the picture, I think it's the paint type. It looks like you used some kind of latex or oil-based paint. I accidentally painted my whole room in that stuff one and had to peel it all off and repaint it in flat paint.
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post #18 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 09:02 AM
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Lots of good advice, but as a former house painter (high school and college years), I agree that free-hand "cutting in" is best, quickest, and easiest overall. It takes practice, but once you get it you'll never waste time with tape again. Make sure you use a very high-quality brush (Purdy brand are what I always use), and get a 1" to 1 1/2" angled brush that's made for the type of paint you'll use. Never skimp on brushes, because you get what you pay for. More expensive brushes are thicker and more consistent, which allows for more precise control. Also, FYI, if you're going to spend a lot on brushes, get a "spinner" (a plunger with a holder for the brush grip, used to spin the brush dry after cleaning cycles). Use the brush to paint all the areas of the wall that you can't get with a roller (corners, baseboard, by ceiling, around outlets, etc.). Then roll, going as far into the previously painted areas as possible to create as consistent a surface as possible.

If you must use tape, as others have said, take it off as soon as possible, and do not let much (any) drying occur. Unless you used excessive amounts of paint just above the tape, you'll have no problems with drips by taking the tape off before the paint's dry (just make sure the tape doesn't touch the wet wall as you remove it).

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post #19 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayhigh View Post

That's the exact reason that you should always take off the painters tape after an hour of drying and no longer than 2 hours. It needs to be tacky enough to stick without running and not hard enough to tear off with the tape. Take it from me, I learned it the hard way...

Exactly, I finally read that somewhere after trying to do as the OP stated. If it dries too long, forget about it. I wait about an hour after I finish painting, and I take it off. It's no longer wet enough to smear paint on the unwanted areas, but still wet enough that it doesn't peal away from areas I want to remain painted.

Tony
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post #20 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 10:22 AM
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Dude, I said to do it without tape

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post #21 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 11:02 AM
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I sometimes freehand, but I have a quick and easy alternative way to do it. Find something stiff like card stock or cut a side off a thin cardboard box. Then I hold the cardboard in the corner and paint up against it. Makes a nice straight edge and keeps the paint where I want it. You just move the cardboard along with you and there is no need to be too careful.

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots. Me being one of them at times.

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post #22 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 12:15 PM
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as a follow up I have found Martin Senour to be the best paint hands down....
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post #23 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 03:46 PM
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The latest Handyman magazine has some good tips in it. One of them that I agree with wholeheartedly is using small rollers when cutting the edges to get the right texture that matches the rest of the paint job.

I don't agree with letting it dry and using a razor though. That has certainly not worked for me.

Next time I may just have to try it freehand like others here are recommending. That means I'll need better brushes though as I usually by the cheapass brushes. :P

Does anyone here use any low volume paint guns indoors? Can you do that? I'd much prefer just using my compressor and spraying the paint onto the wall if possible.
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post #24 of 33 Old 02-14-2007, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayhigh View Post

The latest Handyman magazine has some good tips in it. One of them that I agree with wholeheartedly is using small rollers when cutting the edges to get the right texture that matches the rest of the paint job.

I don't agree with letting it dry and using a razor though. That has certainly not worked for me.

Next time I may just have to try it freehand like others here are recommending. That means I'll need better brushes though as I usually by the cheapass brushes. :P

Does anyone here use any low volume paint guns indoors? Can you do that? I'd much prefer just using my compressor and spraying the paint onto the wall if possible.

buy the Purdee brand brushes you will be happy. And yeah you could spray if you wanted.....you would need to seal off the room and you have to have a quality spray gun to get decent results.
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post #25 of 33 Old 02-17-2007, 06:34 PM
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All good advice. Most painters tape are easily removed if done so within 3 days of application anything over that causes the adhesives to cure more and possibly remove - what you are protecting!
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post #26 of 33 Old 02-18-2007, 08:49 AM
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Agree with what others have said about removing it soon. I often remove it while the paint is still setting (just be careful not to get the paint from the tape on anything).

In fact, if you are using the tape to do caulking, you HAVE to remove while the caulk is wet. BTW, masking both sides before caulking is the GREATEST way to caulk. You don't have to be careful and you still will get perfect results.

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post #27 of 33 Old 02-18-2007, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayhigh View Post


Next time I may just have to try it freehand like others here are recommending. That means I'll need better brushes though as I usually by the cheapass brushes. :P

Not necessarily. I use to be an interior painter and as I mentioned above, I do almost all my painting freehand. I also buy the cheapest brushes I can find. Usually the packs with 5 or 6 brushes. Just takes a bit of practice.

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post #28 of 33 Old 02-18-2007, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

That's funny 'cause I only use Behr and have yet to have a problem if I give the paint time to dry and use the sensative surface tape.


You're not using Bose speakers too, are you?


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post #29 of 33 Old 02-18-2007, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schroedk View Post

Make sure you use a very high-quality brush (Purdy brand are what I always use), and get a 1" to 1 1/2" angled brush that's made for the type of paint you'll use. Never skimp on brushes, because you get what you pay for.


this is the best advice given so far, and the same goes for rollers. Paying for better brushes/rollers up front will pay off in spades later down the road. they rarely ever leave a bristle or nap behind, and always lay down a consistent texture. they also last a heck of a lot longer. You'll end up replacing the cheap stuff over and over and it will cost more in the long run...

as for cutting in, if you can't do it freehand, then you should use the blue tape. remove it right after you are done cutting in, that will minimize any chance of the paint peeling off.

I've also used a large drywall mudding blade to help cut in, by placing it into the corner (ceiling/wall in this case) at about a 45d angle, and then painting that area...then just keep moving along. Be sure to clean the blade now and then or you may inadvertently get some paint where you don't want it. just takes a bit of practice and then you can zip right along.
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post #30 of 33 Old 07-29-2012, 09:12 AM
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Shoot, we've worked so hard to change my college-aged son's room into a "pink" room for my daughter. I left the tape on for several days 'cause we were going to touch up a few spots on the wall. Ceiling paint came off as well as a little bit of the pink paint. So frustrating. I don't quite know what to do next but will read the posts on this forum. Sara
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