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post #61 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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I talked to our builder and he suggested, I think, the following for the ceiling framing [if this is the wrong way to do this, I'd blame my understanding of what he plans not his actual plan]:



I'm not sure how he plans to tie the roof into this. Can anyone clarify?

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post #62 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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And, evidently, I need to figure out how to properly show Flickr images on the forum... but that will have to wait until after work.

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post #63 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 07:43 AM
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Open up the flickr image. If you scoll down, there will be a link at the bottom showing the URL to use in your posting. My guess is maybe you moved the image?
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post #64 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, that's what I did. Flickr provides two types of links, and I tried both of them. I'll mess with it more tonight, only on a 5-minute break atm.

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post #65 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 10:07 AM
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Upload to a free photo bucket account

select the bottom of the 4 alternative links and insert in your post.

you need the links that looks like:

[img]......]/img] except a [ instead of the ] before the /

or you can type the img stuff around a URL that you paste in the thread.
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post #66 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 11:37 AM
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In trying to tie a link back to the page as well as show the image, you have extra html inserted that is messing up the whole insert. Just stick the url of the image in between the IMG tags as suggested above. Not sure about flickr but Photobucket has a setup where you just click on the code that says for forums and it copies to memory and allows you to just paste the whole correct line into your post.

'http://href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/31484147@N05/2961771616/" title="Ceiling_Framing_2008-10-21 by MidniteArrow, on Flickr'>
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post #67 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 11:40 AM
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post #68 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 12:49 PM
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From what I see in the picture he is using two sets of joists, one for the floor and another for the ceiling. There is pretty good isolation going on in the picture but the spacing looks kind wide to support the floor properly. It may just be for illustration and not to scale.

One thing that is difficult to tell looking at the pics is whether the lower joists extend all the way to rim joist. and whether that rim joist sits on the top of the lower walls. In true room within a room framing those area would not be in contact to minimize vibration transfer.
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post #69 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 01:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Can someone suggest a free file hosting site and I'll just post the sketchup plan?

The model was put together by me, and I know very little about framing. Everything should be to scale. It is a "staggered stud" approach to the ceiling joisting system. There won't be a room above this, just an attic with HVAC. The lower joists do extend all the way to the rim joists, although I guess they wouldn't have to.

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post #70 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Maybe this will give a better idea:


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post #71 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 02:14 PM
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Looks like you figured it out - but link in my sig spells out the photo stuff. Photobucket rules.
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post #72 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I just had some extra junk in it that had to be removed. Thanks for the link though, I'll give it a read if I have more problems.

I thought of another question I had that I need to resolve and that is how do I handle doorway framing for a staggered stud wall? I put together something, pictured below, but I'm sure it is horribly off from what it needs to be.


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post #73 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 02:31 PM
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I am trying to remember what they did in my old place. I think they just used a wider board, so no decouple at the doorway. I guess you could get your gap by placing a couple studs side ways.
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post #74 of 180 Old 10-21-2008, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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The more I think about it, I think I'll be stuck with a 2x8 on the latch side of the door at least, and probably both sides. I figure the door needs to latch/screw into something, and the 2x2s pictured probably don't satisfy that need.

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post #75 of 180 Old 10-25-2008, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, we are almost to framing. I'm excited, and scared. Good combo I guess.

I just got back from a 4 day business trip and came home to find this:



I also had another meeting with my builder and the current plan is to "stagger joist" the ceiling as previously pictured, and to do a more standard framing on the door:



Thoughts?

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post #76 of 180 Old 10-26-2008, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteArrow View Post

I also had another meeting with my builder and the current plan is to "stagger joist" the ceiling as previously pictured, and to do a more standard framing on the door:



Thoughts?

Ok... I'm a newb in the isolation department, but doesn't sharing the door jam over the span (width) of the staggered wall defeat the point of staggering in the first place...?

I don't have the "know how" to suggest some other method I'm a afraid. I'm hoping somebody will chime in, cause I'm trying to figure out the exact same thing right now.
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post #77 of 180 Old 10-26-2008, 05:48 AM
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Ok... forgive the extremely rough drawing but what about something like what I did below:



-Black represents your 2x8 wall (2x8" wall right?)...

-Red is 2x6 stud on door load side. You would hinge your door to a doubled up 2x6 at the doorway.

-Blue is the non-door load bearing wall, that's only supporting drywall. Use doubled up 2x2 here...

The trick is to have the first stud before and after the doorway be located on the same side as the 2x2 section of the doorway. That will give that side a little more strength.

Continue the framing around the top of the doorway in the same manner.

This isn't something I've done...just brainstorming.
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post #78 of 180 Old 10-26-2008, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Actually it is a 2x6 top and bottom plate with 2x4 staggered-studs. I'll discuss this with my builder tomorrow. I'd love to come up with something to maintain the stud isolation scheme as much as possible - I just don't really know what is required to get the door to work.

I've got another issue I just realized late tonight - the screen wall (short wall closest the door) is actually about 1/3 concrete block:



My question is, will I need to lose another 6" off the room and put up a stick framed 2x4 standard wall with a 2" air gap away from this concrete block, or can I just DD+GG directly onto this concrete block? What will this do to the sound isolation of the room. I've been looking for this info on existing posts in the forum, but this is a critical issue (they are probably framing this in the morning) so I thought I'd post a question on it as well.

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post #79 of 180 Old 10-28-2008, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, after some debate in another thread, I have decided to switch up construction on this room to a room-in-room type construction. The concrete block wall negates my previous plan for staggered stud throughout, and I was doing staggered stud mostly for that wall.

I will be using a standard 4" wall with a 1.5" air gap and an interior 4" wall. There will also be a double-ceiling with a 1.5" air gap. This should be framed tomorrow or possibly Thursday.

My next obstacle is getting my head around what I need to do for a door to this room, and what effect a door choice has on framing.

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post #80 of 180 Old 10-28-2008, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is my room-in-room sketch:



There is a 1.5" air gap completely surrounding the inner room from the outer, including the ceiling. I could make the ceiling one bigger by several inches if needed, but the walls are encroaching further than I'd like already. Hopefully this is what is meant by "room-in-room".

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post #81 of 180 Old 10-29-2008, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some final designs for what they are framing today. I hope it is at least somewhat competent:

Overview of the HT:



The expected viewing distances are shown with dimension lines to the right.

Frontal view of the A/V Closet:



Framing view of the A/V Closet:



I am having them frame the A/V closet with a 6" Staggered Stud wall. I don't have the space for a room-in-room with the A/V closet, but I still wanted as much sound isolation for this chamber as possible since it will potentially be open to the HT. Thoughts on this are welcome.

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post #82 of 180 Old 10-29-2008, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
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They started framing. Luckily, they didn't get too far before I called and told them they needed a flex-sealant beneath the walls. So far they have 2 walls of the A/V closet done. These were, per design, to be staggered stud walls. Here's what they did:



The Red square looks fishy to me. There will be a door to the left of this portion of wall that goes into my study across the hall from the HT. That looks like a LOT of wood, all going straight across the 6" wall.

The green square shows something that happens at both ends of both of the staggered stud walls that they put in - a 6" stud going completely across the board. Is this required?

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post #83 of 180 Old 10-30-2008, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I updated the initial thread post with a project overview, or at least a placeholder for one. If anyone wants to see my design sketch (Google Sketchup file), you can download it from the initial post.

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post #84 of 180 Old 11-01-2008, 12:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, a bit of good news, I stumbled across an auction for a NHT VS-2.4 on eBay. This will finish off my set for 7.1. Picked it up for $99 + shipping. Now, hopefully it will actually get here and be functional.

I also put together a google sketch of Berkline 45090s. The file is listed as 45003, because this is what I'm actually ordering, but what I ended up modeling was the 45090. These are identical except for the look (and feel) of the back.

 

Berkline_45003.zip 69.2578125k . file

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post #85 of 180 Old 11-02-2008, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Initial post updated with design information.

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post #86 of 180 Old 11-02-2008, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I have decided to use a Middle Atlantic rack. So far, I have identified the following needs:

Rack Equipment
AXS-43-26 (rack)
TRACK50 (pull-out tracks)
AXS-WT50 (Cable management tray for TRACK50)

What other options am I going to need. I assume they make some sort of power strips, hopefully that provide conditioned power. Any advice on other "must have" gadgets is welcome.

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post #87 of 180 Old 11-11-2008, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I updated the front page with some screenshots as well as a link to my current sketchup model.

Link

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post #88 of 180 Old 11-20-2008, 11:53 AM - Thread Starter
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My framers are almost done with the house, so now it is time to decide what wood is scrap, what is going back to the lumber yard, and what we are keeping. One of the framers suggested that I keep a few of the 24' 8" I-Joists and use those for framing the soffits. Anyone have any thoughts on whether this is a good idea?

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post #89 of 180 Old 03-19-2009, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the house construction is going well, they are almost done painting. I'll probably put some screenshots up soon. It's about time to get this whole HT thing back on track. My next big hurdle is to do a decent budget and solidify the plan for the home theater. This is going well, but I hit a hurdle in that the SMX screens, which I would like to use, are just too expensive for me to justify, at least without some major convincing. The screen needs to be an AT screen, and I do not mind making it myself. Suggestions on who to look to for a good AT screen material are VERY welcome.

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post #90 of 180 Old 03-19-2009, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteArrow View Post

Suggestions on who to look to for a good AT screen material are VERY welcome.

Here you go:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

My understanding is that the Sheer weave is what Ruben started with until he had them do something in a custom weave. It is also the fabric that Seymour AV was using although they now have something new. Here is a place you can but it by the yard.

http://www.interiormall.com/cat/nsam...=113044&t=2182

Or - http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp
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