Wells Family Theater Construction Thread (another 2.35:1) - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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The process of making, covering and stuffing the fabric frames is complete. Wow, making them is quiet a job. To give those an idea of what it took:

- Ripping 1 1/8" pine into 2" stripes and rough cut to length (8-hours)
- Measure and fabricate the frames using pocket hole jig (16-hours)
- Wrap frames with suede material and staple (8-hours) 4000 staples
- Stuff frames with 1" linacoustic or poly-batten when appropriate and mount to wall (8-hours)

I used the Velcro method of attaching each frame to the wall so that they may be removed, changed, or updated if needed. I have not tried to remove a frame as of yet and hope that I don't have to pull one down. The Velcro seems very sticky.

Any how, off the the screen shots of the wall. Now, I just need to finish up the screen wall itself.

In all, I am very happy with the outcome of the fabric frames. Thank goodness for the GPowers AVS thread on fabric frames. It was very inspirational and provided great guidance. Speaking of, my next post will be in that thread thanking him personally.

Sorry that the pictures are not better but photography is not my thing. Perhaps I'll try some with more light on in the room next. I'll post one with the flash on but that changes the colors of the room.

-T.Wells
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post #62 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few shots with the access door to the equipment room opened. This 'door' needs to be fixed up somewhat as I need to have a mechanism in place to keep the door closed and add brown fabric between the frames to give it a finished appearance.

Thanks for looking at the pictures.

-T.Wells
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post #63 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 11:35 AM
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The panels came out great ......nice work.

Cheers,
mark

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post #64 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 11:35 AM
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Looks great T.Wells. Love the hidden door, nice touch. Quick questions (don't think I saw answers in this thread), what kind of speakers are you using/going to use and are you going to keep the projector out like that or find a case or something to hide it (not that it matters, just curious) ?
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post #65 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 12:06 PM
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T. Wells,

Looks great. I've started to plan my future theater. Yours has already been added to my inspiration folder.
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post #66 of 118 Old 03-12-2008, 12:57 PM
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Wow! Those panels turned out great!

Gonzo

My Home Theater Odyssey
PSN: mule-tool
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post #67 of 118 Old 03-13-2008, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

The panels came out great ......nice work.

Cheers,
mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

T. Wells,

Looks great. I've started to plan my future theater. Yours has already been added to my inspiration folder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Wow! Those panels turned out great!

Thanks for the kind words. I keep going into the basement to look at the panels and room and think, "Wow, yeah, that really is in my house."

Quote:
Originally Posted by paperboy05 View Post

Looks great T.Wells. Love the hidden door, nice touch. Quick questions (don't think I saw answers in this thread), what kind of speakers are you using/going to use and are you going to keep the projector out like that or find a case or something to hide it (not that it matters, just curious) ?

Thanks, I saw the hidden door here on AVS and my local theater store has one as well. To answer your questions:

I am using Rocket by Onix speakers and an SVS subwoofer.
- L/R are RS250s
- Center is the bigfoot (the RSC200)
- The four surrounds are RSS300s (dipoles)
- The sub is an SVS 20-39 PCI
- 1 mini-buttkicker in each Berkline

I'll take a close-up picture of the column with the lights on bright as you can see the speaker through the grill cloth if you look close.

I don't think that I'll have the 720p projector for many years so I don't plan on hiding it at this point. It actually is behind the rear row of seats so you only see it when you look at the back of the room. I really wish it was black as it would not be as noticeable. Speaking of the projector, I need to clean up the wires behind there too ...

Thanks for all the comments and looks at the thread.

-T.Wells
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post #68 of 118 Old 03-13-2008, 12:36 PM
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Did you look at the tracks from FabricMate before deciding on how to do the panels?
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post #69 of 118 Old 03-14-2008, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Did you look at the tracks from FabricMate before deciding on how to do the panels?

Mario,

No, I had not seen those panels. I just took a look at their panels and they are pretty darn expensive. I didn't do the exact math but my 33 panels may would have cost over $3000. Several of my panels are longer than 4' so I would have had to double up here and there.

Here is a quick list of costs for the project:

- Lumber $250
- Fabric $375
- Industrial Strength Velcro $100

I actually saw the design I ultimately went with at a home theater store near my house. I love the fact that they list the cost of the room at $250,000. While I don't have McIntosh equipment, Runco projector, or Stewart screen (my screen is bigger ). I think my system stands up pretty well ...

-T.Wells
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post #70 of 118 Old 03-14-2008, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Wells View Post

Thanks, I saw the hidden door here on AVS and my local theater store has one as well. To answer your questions:

I am using Rocket by Onix speakers and an SVS subwoofer.
- L/R are RS250s
- Center is the bigfoot (the RSC200)
- The four surrounds are RSS300s (dipoles)
- The sub is an SVS 20-39 PCI
- 1 mini-buttkicker in each Berkline

I'll take a close-up picture of the column with the lights on bright as you can see the speaker through the grill cloth if you look close.

I don't think that I'll have the 720p projector for many years so I don't plan on hiding it at this point. It actually is behind the rear row of seats so you only see it when you look at the back of the room. I really wish it was black as it would not be as noticeable. Speaking of the projector, I need to clean up the wires behind there too ...

Thanks for all the comments and looks at the thread.

-T.Wells

Thanks for the answers T.Wells. Good luck in your endeavor.
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post #71 of 118 Old 03-18-2008, 06:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello Philly AVSers,

I know that there were a few Philly suburb people looking at my thread and I wanted to let you know that I have a ton of extra poly batten available.

I bought two rolls (18 yards per roll) at Joanne's Fabric while they were running a after Christmas sale. I only used less than 18-yards and I don't want to return it for the credit as I would rather give it away to a fellow AVSer. If you are making fabric frames or doing a room covered in fabric, you can have the 18 yards for FREE. You just need to come pick it up at my house.

FYI, In my 1" deep panels, I needed to double the poly to get the proper fill.

Drop me a PM if you want the poly batten and are willing to drive to my house. I live about 45 min NW of center city Philly.

-T.Wells
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post #72 of 118 Old 07-16-2008, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I had close friends from college over this past weekend and wanted to share my theater with them. We cued up Saving Private Ryan and enjoyed the opening scene.

During the scene, my one friend went upstairs to check on his wife and new baby. Well, he came back and gave me the best complement I have received about the theater. Mind you, I've showed the theater to many friends and family member and they all loved it. However, this time was different.

He came back and said, "Oh my god. I thought you guys paused the movie. While I was upstairs, I didn't hear a thing. At that volume, my third floor is usually shaking." Well, he does have a nice system (65" RPTV with 7.2 sound by Onyx) so the complement made my weekend.

I just thought I would share it to those laboring through the process of doing DD and GG and wondering ... "Does it really make a difference?" Well ... it does. Keep at it.

-T.Wells
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post #73 of 118 Old 07-16-2008, 07:55 PM
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That's what I needed to hear! I have been working on isolation and the like and have frequently wondered what difference it was going to make.

I Love the panels. Well done!

CJ

Follow my build here: Harvest Ridge Theater
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post #74 of 118 Old 07-17-2008, 06:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

That's what I needed to hear! I have been working on isolation and the like and have frequently wondered what difference it was going to make.

I Love the panels. Well done!

CJ

CJ,
Glad that I could help you out. With my father-in-law being a contractor for his whole life, his questions of "Why do we have to do this?" started to make me think that it was a waste of effort. It certainly was not a waste of effort or money and he certainly agrees.

-T.Wells
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post #75 of 118 Old 07-17-2008, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Wells View Post

CJ,
Glad that I could help you out. With my father-in-law being a contractor for his whole life, his questions of "Why do we have to do this?" started to make me think that it was a waste of effort. It certainly was not a waste of effort or money and he certainly agrees.

-T.Wells

*THAT* would have freaked me out. Glad I didn't have a contractor in the family.

Glad it turned out well. My green glue has cured (been about 60 days) and it feels solid as a rock. It's funny because you could really tell the difference when I whacked the wall with a hammer while it was curing vs. now.

I'm working to start the third coat of drywall and I can't believe how bad the echoes are.

CJ

Follow my build here: Harvest Ridge Theater
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post #76 of 118 Old 07-29-2008, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I thought that I would share some updates on my theater control. I am going to try one post here through ImageShack before I post the whole lot of them. Here is my "home page" for theater control:




Hope that picture works ...


T.Wells
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post #77 of 118 Old 07-29-2008, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few more pictures of the touchscreen in action:

Lighting Control:


Pick a movie to watch:


Play the movie or read the brief summary:


Pop-up/slide-up menus (here are shots of those in action too):






Since finishing up my build has been very slow (still need masking system installed), I figured I'd share these as it has taken up a good bit of my time as of late.

T.Wells
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post #78 of 118 Old 09-08-2008, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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I just posted FS 10 Aura Bass Shakers in the classified section.

I am also still trying to give away the 18-yards of poly-batten. I also posted this in the classified section.

Take a peek if you are interested.

-T.Wells
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post #79 of 118 Old 03-16-2009, 11:36 AM
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Hi T.Wells,

I have been looking over the forum for about a year now and have always bookmared GPowers fabric frame page. I had decided to do 2'x4' frames in between columns and found your thread which is very close to what I am looking to do. I hope that you do not mind but I have a few questions:
1) did you use the same method as GPowers for ripping MDF and plywood? I can not figure why not to just use 2"x2" and run the edges through a table saw for the bevel.
2) with your panels did you bevel all four sides, or since the left and right were butted up to cloumns, did you just bevel the top and bottoms?
3) lighting - I notice that you skipped can/recessed lights and did just sconces. I am considering this as well. Do you feel like you have enought light with just those sconces? The photos look really dark. If you did it again would you add more light?
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post #80 of 118 Old 03-17-2009, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

Hi T.Wells,

I have been looking over the forum for about a year now and have always bookmared GPowers fabric frame page. I had decided to do 2'x4' frames in between columns and found your thread which is very close to what I am looking to do. I hope that you do not mind but I have a few questions:
1) did you use the same method as GPowers for ripping MDF and plywood? I can not figure why not to just use 2"x2" and run the edges through a table saw for the bevel.
2) with your panels did you bevel all four sides, or since the left and right were butted up to cloumns, did you just bevel the top and bottoms?
3) lighting - I notice that you skipped can/recessed lights and did just sconces. I am considering this as well. Do you feel like you have enought light with just those sconces? The photos look really dark. If you did it again would you add more light?


Hello Sotwell,

The GPowers fabric frame thread is really awesome and a great inspiration. It led me down the path of creating my own fabric framed theater. No problem on the questions, I'd be happy to answer as many as you have.

1. No, I did not do the same method as GPowers. My father-in-law has been a carpenter his entire life and learned the trade from his father so I followed his own idea. I have not seen anyone else do this as of yet but here goes. Since I wanted a 1" space inside the frame for duct liner, he bought 4'x8' sheets of 5/4 board (pick your wood of choice, poplar?) so it's thickness is 1 and 1/4. He used a table saw to rip the 5/4 board into strips 1.5" wide. Doing this, he was able to pick out clean sheets of wood with no knots or only a small number of knots which were cut out. We then cut the wood to size for the frames and use pocket screws to join the frames together. Again, this was nice so the ends did not have to be cut by a miter saw. We used two routers to make the process faster (as if it was not already fast enough). The first router had a cheap bit to take off about ½ of the depth of the bevel. The second router was the nice bit to provide the finishing touches. You could use only one router but taking off that much wood you would have to move it around the frame somewhat slowly. We routed all 34 frames very quickly using this method.

We discussed using the table saw to create the bevel but went with a true router bit. He (my father-in-law) was afraid that we may waste a few pieces of wood using the table saw using it to cut the bevel so we did the router route. Using the router was actually very, very easy as we routered them once the frames were already assembled.

2. Yes, all the frames were beveled on all 4 sides. IMO, it really looks nice that way. Again, IMO, this is especially true where they touch in the room corners and again up against the column. The only place I would say you could do without the beveled edge is on the bottom panel where it meets the floor. I have to use the vacuum attachment to get into this little crevice but it does not bother me at I am very careful around the frames anyhow and would not want the vacuum touching the fabric frame anyhow.

3. Regarding the lighting, yes the pictures look very dark and the room was pretty dark when I took the pictures. I was trying to give the impression of what the room looks like while watching a movie.

I did skip out on any ceiling lights in a direct effort to not undermine the effort of double drywall and green glue.

I would not add more lights to my room if I had to do it again. The 6 sconces provide more than enough light and I usually only turn on the front two sconces to show the room to family and friends. When I enter the room to watch TV, I usually turn on the rear four sconces at 40%. If you would want to read the newspaper at this amount of lighting it would not be the best scenario but for watching TV or a movie, it is fine. In fact, when I watch a movie, all the lights (except for the riser light on a 10%) are off.

Finally, I have two small floodlights on the floor behind to stage to light up the screen. Both of these are only 50 watts and are used to show off the screen wall fabric to family and friend but they will get turned off quickly and I never turn them on when I am alone in the room.

Let me know what else I can answer or provide my feedback on.

I have to update this thread anyway as I have made some changes lately and the screen wall masking system is almost done.

T.Wells
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post #81 of 118 Old 03-17-2009, 07:05 AM
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Twells,

Thanks for the input. I think that the room looks great, and everyone on this board has been a huge help. I will be starting my build shortly and am currently finishing up the design elements. My color scheme will be charcoal gray columns and bright red panels.

I am curious why your father-in-law suggested ripping 5/4 plywood to 1.5" lengths. Does this not give you 1.25"x1.5" boards? If so, why not just use some quality 2"x2" which is actually 1.5"x1.5"? I am by no means a craftsman, but am fairly comforable with tools.

With 2x4 frames did you have to put in a middle brace for strength to allow for pulling the fabric?

Did you cover the top panels with batting?

I am considering a 2.35x1 screen and trying to figure out a masking system as well. Curious to see what you come up with.
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post #82 of 118 Old 03-17-2009, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

Twells,

Thanks for the input. I think that the room looks great, and everyone on this board has been a huge help. I will be starting my build shortly and am currently finishing up the design elements. My color scheme will be charcoal gray columns and bright red panels.

I am curious why your father-in-law suggested ripping 5/4 plywood to 1.5" lengths. Does this not give you 1.25"x1.5" boards? If so, why not just use some quality 2"x2" which is actually 1.5"x1.5"? I am by no means a craftsman, but am fairly comforable with tools.

With 2x4 frames did you have to put in a middle brace for strength to allow for pulling the fabric?

Did you cover the top panels with batting?

I am considering a 2.35x1 screen and trying to figure out a masking system as well. Curious to see what you come up with.

Okay, I just spoke with my father-in-law and got some clarification.

We used 5/4 x 12" pine to make the frames. The boards were ripped into 4 equal pieces. Therefore, each wound up being a little over 2 1/4" wide.

Yes, we used some center braces. I am guessing that anything over 40" got a center brace and the ones over 60 or 70 something got two center braces.

The reason why 1.5" of space in the cavity may not be good is that you are going to put in 1" duct liner. The extra 0.5" would allow the liner to sag down. For my frames, when the fabric is stretched and the duct liner is cut the fit inside the frame, it would stay in place when holding the frame vertically without being placed on the wall. Therefore, when you place it on the wall, the duct liner will be held in place very tightly. If you have extra space inside the cavity, I could easily see the liner falling down and bulging out the fabric. Being tightly packed also helps aid in keeping things looking nice from the prying fingers of your guests when they start poking and asking ... "What is this?"

Yes, the top layer of panels were stuffed with poly-batten and the bottom received 1" duct liner as mentioned above.

I think I have come up with a fairly good remote controlled, electronic masking system for my theater (two aspect ratios only 1.78 and 2.35). I'll share the details here once I am done. I just need to get the fabric panels made and hung. Then I give my system a final test with the panels instead of just strings and sheets. The local seamstress is telling me that she needs two weeks to make my panels so I am in a holding pattern right now.

Hope this helps,
T.Wells
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post #83 of 118 Old 08-04-2009, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

It has been too long since I updated my thread.

Here are a few shots of the custom cabinets outside of the theater. Two are of my candy counter (still needs a top) and related area. The third is the plasma display for the bar area also outside the theater.

I will update a few shots of with the completed theater including screen wall and semi-DIY CIH masking system.

-T.Wells
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post #84 of 118 Old 11-12-2009, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I finally got a theater curtain made and hung so I can now share photos of the final screen wall with curtain and motorized masking system. Three images attached include the closed curtains, the screen masked for 16:9, and the screen fully exposed for 2.37:1.

-T.Wells
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post #85 of 118 Old 11-13-2009, 05:29 AM
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Those curtains look great T. Masking looks nice to, although the 16:9 setting looks keystoned is it a weight issue?
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post #86 of 118 Old 11-13-2009, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Those curtains look great T. Masking looks nice to, although the 16:9 setting looks keystoned is it a weight issue?

Thank you very much for the complement.

I am really happy with how the curtains turned out and they actually wound up being very cheap. Here is a breakdown:

- I found red velvet curtains on the clearance rack at JC Penny for $9.99 a panel (retail was $59.99) so I bought 8

- I purchased the fringe and the 'lines' from Jo-Anns for $140 (yes, it cost more than the curtains)

- Then I paid a lady near my in-laws to put it all together for me. She only charged us $40 and felt bad asking for it. I gave her $50 because I was the one who felt bad. Once I took them home they looked so good that I decided to send her an additional $20.

Regarding the keystone on the 16:9 image. Yes, you caught me. I've seen it for sometime now and I was afraid the keen eyes on AVS would find me hiding this little horrible secret. It is an easy fix for me to adjust the mask but I've been too lazy to remove the 1 staple and redo it.

To clarify this, I am use a motorized rod to control both the masks and the curtains (CL-800). To make the masks work, I attached the black GOM with a few staples to a piece of 1x2 pine wood, then used J-hooks to attach the wood to the hooks on the curtain rod. It works perfectly to mask down to a 16x9 image and then (in-sync with my anamorphic lens), move out for a 2.37:1 image. The reason for the slight keystone is that the GOM was not perfectly straight when stapled so it is hung on a slight angle. I now just need to remove a staple or two and re-staple and it should be fixed.

Thanks again for the comment.

-T.Wells
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post #87 of 118 Old 11-21-2009, 04:47 PM
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Beautiful theater, whats the name of your controller? Anxiously following this thread for more pictures.. keep up the good work..

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post #88 of 118 Old 11-21-2009, 09:38 PM
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T.Wells,

Questions on your CL800 Motorized curtain track, that's the motorized track I plan to use:

Is your main curtain mounted onto the same curtain track as your masking ?

Any photos on how the two interconnect ?

If both are mounted to the same CL800 track, does your main curtain rub against the screen surface ?

I may have missed it, what is your screen & is your frame DIY?

How does your control system control the CL800 track?


Thanks, thanks for sharing!
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post #89 of 118 Old 11-22-2009, 12:38 AM
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T Wells

That's great to hear that your system is so quiet from the outside. I'm going to be using the same method to dampen the noise coming from my system as well.

Some questions about your ceiling and walls since I'm going to be hanging drywall soon.
1.) Did you nail the 5/8" drywall to the studs, then adhere the 1/2" drywall using GG?
2.) Did you add any insulation to the inside of your walls/ceiling?
3.) Any other tips/tricks to your soundproofing that you didn't mention in the build?

Thanks for the inspiration!

EDIT: Nevermind, I checked out the soundproofing website and it had loads of great information. I'm super excited to hear the results.
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post #90 of 118 Old 11-24-2009, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taxman48 View Post

Beautiful theater, whats the name of your controller? Anxiously following this thread for more pictures.. keep up the good work..

I am using MainLobby on a UMPC (TabletKiosk). I actually have all new layout for my remote control which I will have to share in the near future.

Thanks!

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