Wells Family Theater Construction Thread (another 2.35:1) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 118 Old 11-24-2009, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

T.Wells,

Questions on your CL800 Motorized curtain track, that's the motorized track I plan to use:

Is your main curtain mounted onto the same curtain track as your masking ?

Any photos on how the two interconnect ?

If both are mounted to the same CL800 track, does your main curtain rub against the screen surface ?

I may have missed it, what is your screen & is your frame DIY?

How does your control system control the CL800 track?


Thanks, thanks for sharing!

The curtain and the masking system are on their own rods. The CL800 comes with the option of having two rods and two motors on the same system. I believe that this is called dual track. I can look up the name if needed.

For my screen, I have the SMX material which I purchased directly from Rubin (Sandman) and used a custom made frame from an art supply store. I think the total for my screen and frame was less than $400. I have an excel sheet at home with all my prices so I'll have to check to be sure.

My control system "controls" the CL800 track via IR using macros. I have a hard stop on the masking system to set it for a 16x9 image and the control system (MainLobby) keeps track of the current screen aspect ratio, position of the anamorphic lens, and scaler setting so that when I make changes on the remote (UMPC), it knows just what to do. For example, if I press "HDTV2", the system checks if the screen is in 1.78:1 mode, that the lens is "out", that the proper input is selected on the AVR (and scaler), and finally, that the scaler is set for a 16x9 image. If not, it will make the appropiate change to the equipment that needs to be set properly for me to watch a football game. I also have it trigger the proper lighting level for each event as well. For example, 16x9 image (typically a sporting event) generally have more lighting in the room but when I go to watch a Blu-Ray, the rear lights go very dim (20% to be exact), the riser light goes on, and front lights and stage lights are set to off. However, I think that is going beyond what you asked. If anyone wants more on that, let me know.

Back to curtains and masking ...

If you only want a 1.78 stop and a 2.40 stop, this is very easy to do. I used black electrical tape and a small piece of wood to stop the masks at a 16x9 image and the full screen (2.37:1), simply has the masks moved all the way out and exposes the black velvet frame (vertical section, the horizontal is always showing).

The main curtain is about 4" away from the screen and the masks are about 1" away as well. I was worried that 1" off the screen would cause problems but it actually works fine.

I will take some close-up pictures of the screen, masks, and rods to give you an idea on how it is setup. Give me a few days and I'll post them here.

If anyone wants more pictures, let me know what you want to see.

Thanks,
T.Wells


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post #92 of 118 Old 11-24-2009, 11:07 PM
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Thanks T Wells, look forward to more info whenever you get time.
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post #93 of 118 Old 11-25-2009, 12:26 AM
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When the curtain is fully open, how much bundles up on the ends. I have an 8 foot screen and have about 1 foot on each end to hide curtains behind a false wall. So I would need a 10 foot track.

Just wanted to know if a foot is enough to hide the open curtains

thanks
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post #94 of 118 Old 11-25-2009, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

Thanks T Wells, look forward to more info whenever you get time.

HDGTX,

I'll have those pictures up in a few days.

Here is where I purchased the dual track CL-800: http://0063da9.netsolhost.com/product1_800.html

You will notice that they say the inner rod is typically used for a sheer. This is where I mounted the masks.

I also had to purchase the special wall clips for the dual track at $5 per clip (well worth it if you are wall mounting instead of using a ceiling mount). The recommendation here is to use 1 clip every 12" and of course one for each end.

Hope this helps some while you wait for my pictures.

-T.Wells


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post #95 of 118 Old 11-25-2009, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KERMIE View Post

When the curtain is fully open, how much bundles up on the ends. I have an 8 foot screen and have about 1 foot on each end to hide curtains behind a false wall. So I would need a 10 foot track.

Just wanted to know if a foot is enough to hide the open curtains

thanks

Kermie,

I think that the amount that bundles (aka curtain stack) when fully open will vary based on the curtain and number of clips used.

The general rule of thumb is that you need to have 1/3 of the space of the closed curtain to accommodate the stack. Therefore, if you have 10' of curtain, you need 3.3' of space for a stack. I read this tip here on AVS.

I contacted two different people (theater curtain companies) and they both told me about the 1/3 rule and indicated that they usually allow a little more space. In fact, both told me that I can not have a curtain that would fully close as I did not have enough space for the stack. One recommended for me to purchase a curved BTX rod for the curtain and a straight BTX rod for the masks.

Needless to say, I was very disappointed that I would not have that theater feel with a closed curtain opening. At this point, I was ready to just have a curtain made to hang off to each side to give the appearance that it could actually close and conceal the screen.

I then made the decision to "go for it" and do my own full size curtain and see what happens. As you can see, in the end, I believe that it worked out well for me. I think my curtain looks very nice and I saved over $1000 on the curtain and over $6000 on the rod as I bought my own curtain/fringe (paying someone to sew it together for me) and used the dual track CL-800.

For my scenario, my rod length is 14' and I have about 22" of stack space on each side of my screen. My curtain stack is a tight fit but it does clear (barely) the vertical screen boarder.

Hope this helps and good luck on your project.

T.Wells


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post #96 of 118 Old 12-02-2009, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

Sorry this has taken longer than expected but the holiday came up quickly and we are also leaving for Disney tomorrow so things have been crazy at my place.

Anyhow, as promised, here are a few additional close-up shots of the rod and masking system.

Three pictures for this post, and one more for my next.

The three pictures here contain:
1. A picture of the dual rod CL-800 system with wall mount clips attached to the screen wall (a false wall with AT SMX screen).

2. A picture of the hard stop I created to always stop the masking system at a 16:9 image (the smallest image I project). This stop is actually a spare rod connector piece, put on the rod upside down. Then, I used black electrical tape to attach it to the rod in the proper location. Yeah, I know ... real fancy but hey, it works

3. A picture of the right side mask hanging in the "out" position to get a sense of how close it is to the screen and screen molding.

Let me know if you have questions on these.

-T.Wells
LL
LL
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post #97 of 118 Old 12-02-2009, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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This last picture for today is a close up of how I attached the mask to the CL-800 rod system.

- I cut a two 1x2 boards to the right length so as to cover up the white space on the left and right side of my screen when projecting a 16:9 image.

- Then I covered the 1x2 with black GOM and screwed in small "J" hooks to attach to the rod carrier and curtain hook (just one).

- Finally, I stapled the black GOM mask to the backside of the 1x2 to complete the project.

IMO, this was a very simple project and provides a great low cost masking solution.

Let me know if anyone would like additional details or pictures.

Best regards,
T.Wells
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post #98 of 118 Old 12-10-2009, 04:37 PM
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T.Wells,

Do you still have the 18 yard roll that you were trying to give away?

chester
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post #99 of 118 Old 12-15-2009, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chester aldrid View Post

T.Wells,

Do you still have the 18 yard roll that you were trying to give away?

chester

Chester,

Sorry, I already gave it away to another AVS Member.

-T.Wells


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post #100 of 118 Old 12-15-2009, 11:48 AM
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Thank you so much for the photos, going to reread your posts & study the pics.

John

Addition: T-Wells, Does the wall switch actually work both tracks? The reason I ask; read a review of the Add-A-Motor version (they look the same & use same wall swt) at the Smart Home web site. The end user stated the wall switch does not conrtol the 2nd track, it does nothing. What is your experience with the CL800?
Are they the same OEM?
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post #101 of 118 Old 12-18-2009, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

Thank you so much for the photos, going to reread your posts & study the pics.

John

Addition: T-Wells, Does the wall switch actually work both tracks? The reason I ask; read a review of the Add-A-Motor version (they look the same & use same wall swt) at the Smart Home web site. The end user stated the wall switch does not conrtol the 2nd track, it does nothing. What is your experience with the CL800?
Are they the same OEM?

John,

Sorry I missed your question as I think you edited your post and I saw the e-mail and ignored my own thread

The manual control that comes with the dual-track CL800 does control both rods. I will take a picture of it as it has both open and close button for rods A and B (e.g. both rods).

I am really happy with how my CL800 works. It was easy to install and works as advertised. The only thing I have to shore up is the spacing of my curtains.

The curtain carrier pulls the curtain out from a single point. Therefore, if I don't touch the curtains, it leaves excess stack when moving from open to closed. I, of course, like the look of the curtains with the 'bunches' evenly distributed across the screen (kind of like in the image I posted above).

My plan to evenly space these out on a consistent basis each time is to tie a small piece of fishing line in-between each roller/curtain clip so that they always remain evenly spaced when closed. I have just been too lazy to spend the hour or so doing this task so I can't say how well it will work.

-T.Wells


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post #102 of 118 Old 12-18-2009, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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John,

Here is a picture where you can see the switch for both rods (A and B).

http://picasaweb.google.com/RemoteCo...32964376425618


-T.Wells


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post #103 of 118 Old 12-22-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell View Post

...
I am curious why your father-in-law suggested ripping 5/4 plywood to 1.5" lengths. Does this not give you 1.25"x1.5" boards? If so, why not just use some quality 2"x2" which is actually 1.5"x1.5"? I am by no means a craftsman, but am fairly comforable with tools.
...

To anyone who is building the same, I would recommend against using 1.5"x1.5" boards as well. It is VERY rare that you can find them at the lumber yard completely free of knots, and without some MAJOR warping/bowing issues. It is always better to get the larger lumber pieces from a lumber yard and rip them to your size, since the larger boards are less prone to warp/bow during shipment, and once ripped in your shop, will stay true. Most lumber mills also use the center-most part of the tree (with the least knots) for the larger boards, so you get higher quality frames once you cut it all up.
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post #104 of 118 Old 12-23-2009, 07:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Z3VH View Post

To anyone who is building the same, I would recommend against using 1.5"x1.5" boards as well. It is VERY rare that you can find them at the lumber yard completely free of knots, and without some MAJOR warping/bowing issues. It is always better to get the larger lumber pieces from a lumber yard and rip them to your size, since the larger boards are less prone to warp/bow during shipment, and once ripped in your shop, will stay true. Most lumber mills also use the center-most part of the tree (with the least knots) for the larger boards, so you get higher quality frames once you cut it all up.

Thanks 3Z3VH, yes, the ultimate goal here was to have straight (or true as the carpenters say), frames which will last a lifetime. As I mentioned, the few knots that were in the 'clear' wood my father-in-law picked were cut out so that the frames will be very durable.

I can certainly say that in 10-years, I could see myself removing the frames and replacing the fabric without any problems.

Now if you were planning to make small fabric frames, you may be able to get away with using 1.5" x 1.5" boards but you may wind up with a lot of waste while you cut out knots and still may have issues with bowing and warping.

Thanks again,
T.Wells


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post #105 of 118 Old 12-28-2009, 01:47 PM
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Another good tip, is if you order a lot of lumber... once you receive it, let it sit in your house for a few days, or more if you have the time.

Nowadays lumber is shipped all over the US very quickly, and brought to market just as fast as it arrives... the difference in climate from where the lumber was cut, to where you are installing it, can be quite significant. Letting the wood acclimate to the typical warm/dry house interior before you cut it up and assemble it can make the difference between a good looking theatre, and an amazing one... though typically this advice is reserved for the more visible wood like cabinets, trim or floor and wall paneling.
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post #106 of 118 Old 02-15-2012, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I just wanted to share some feedback on the theater that I received this weekend. Now that I have children, my oldest daughter had a friend over for a playdate this past weekend. Before she left, we took her into the theater to watch a portion of a movie. We thought it would be nice to calm the kids down a bit before leaving the house. Upon entering the room and getting the movie started up (Tinker Bell), my daughter's friend remarked, "This is the most awesome place ever."

Well, I was completely thrilled to hear it and felt like a proud Dad. I think my wife even enjoyed the complement. While I had wished that they picked a scoped movie instead of a 16:9 blu-ray, I don't think they cared much either way.

Next up is that I think we are going to be hosting an entire Daisy troop for a showing of the movie Tangled. What fun!

Anyhow, I thought I would share the story to maybe provide a little motivation for the other Dad's working on their theater.


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post #107 of 118 Old 02-15-2012, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T.Wells View Post

While I had wished that they picked a scoped movie instead of a 16:9 blu-ray, I don't think they cared much either way.

LOL... only on AVS would we criticize a child's choice of movie based on aspect ratio.

The theatre looks fantastic, especially the fabric panels. I appreciate the fact that you included the estimate on time spent building them, because it makes me think I'll either build larger panels or go to a commercial system like Fabricmate. I don't know if I would ever get it done otherwise. Anyway, really great work, and its nice to see you are still enjoying it with the family.
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post #108 of 118 Old 02-17-2012, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by OJ Bartley View Post

LOL... only on AVS would we criticize a child's choice of movie based on aspect ratio.

Too funny. I never thought of it that way.

Thanks for the compliment on the theater.

T.Wells


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post #109 of 118 Old 02-16-2014, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, it has been a long time but the bar in the basement was finally finished which mean both the bar and the concession counter finally were finished off with their counter tops.



Back in the theater, updates always continue to happen.

  • Updated to dual SVS cylinder subwoofers
  • Updated to full 11.2 sound
  • Changed out remotes twice. First was a URC MX-5000 and now I am using a MX-6000

Things are never "really" finished. Are they?

-T.Wells


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post #110 of 118 Old 04-18-2014, 10:56 AM
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I used the Velcro method of attaching each frame to the wall so that they may be removed, changed, or updated if needed. I have not tried to remove a frame as of yet and hope that I don't have to pull one down. The Velcro seems very sticky.

Thanks!

Kevin


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post #111 of 118 Old 04-18-2014, 11:01 AM
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Not sure what happened to my post.... I intended to ask how the Velcro method has held up over the years? I like the flexibility of being able to remove frames, and this in theory seems easier than other methods I have seen.

You now have the benefit of living with it for years!

Nice looking theater and candy bar.

Kevin

Thanks!

Kevin


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post #112 of 118 Old 04-21-2014, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Not sure what happened to my post.... I intended to ask how the Velcro method has held up over the years? I like the flexibility of being able to remove frames, and this in theory seems easier than other methods I have seen.

You now have the benefit of living with it for years!

Kevin

Hi Kevin,
The Velcro method that I used has worked very well. I have not had a single issue with the fabric frames in my room and as you see, some are fairly large.
Quote:
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Nice looking theater and candy bar.

Kevin

Thanks! smile.gif

-T.Wells


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post #113 of 118 Old 04-21-2014, 01:52 PM
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Theater looks great. I'm another Philly suburbanite working on a basement theater. I can't wait for my kids to be able to watch movies with their friends down there.

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post #114 of 118 Old 04-24-2014, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by T.Wells View Post


Hi Kevin,
The Velcro method that I used has worked very well. I have not had a single issue with the fabric frames in my room and as you see, some are fairly large.
Thanks! smile.gif

-T.Wells


That is great to hear.   So, the Velcro you used, has essentially the velcro/hook & loop material on the front, and then you 'peel' the back paper off and that reveals the 'sticky' surface.  This surface is applied to a) the wall itself and b) the back of the frame?   Then the frame is just attached to the wall, right? 


Thanks!

Kevin


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post #115 of 118 Old 04-24-2014, 08:15 AM
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T.Wells

I love when these Older threads are brought back up so all the new AVS'ers can see some great theaters from a few years ago as there are a ton of them.

Scott


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post #116 of 118 Old 04-28-2014, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post


That is great to hear.   So, the Velcro you used, has essentially the velcro/hook & loop material on the front, and then you 'peel' the back paper off and that reveals the 'sticky' surface.  This surface is applied to a) the wall itself and b) the back of the frame?   Then the frame is just attached to the wall, right? 

Yes, I applied the whole piece to the frame first and then attached it to the wall. In some of the larger frames, I used staples to attach the velcro to the frame and to the wall. Of course then means I removed the frame from the all to apply staples on both sides. I'm not sure if it was needed but I wanted a little extra security on the very large pieces (only about 10% of the frames have stapled Velcro).
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T.Wells

I love when these Older threads are brought back up so all the new AVS'ers can see some great theaters from a few years ago as there are a ton of them.

Thanks!


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post #117 of 118 Old 04-28-2014, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by saldog78 View Post

Theater looks great. I'm another Philly suburbanite working on a basement theater. I can't wait for my kids to be able to watch movies with their friends down there.

Thanks. Looking forward to following your thread.


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post #118 of 118 Old 04-29-2014, 07:11 AM
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Thanks. Looking forward to following your thread.

Yeah, i should probably update that. I have a build thread on another site, so i haven't been updating the one here. I'm in Mont Co as well.

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Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

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