Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 11 - AVS Forum
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post #301 of 400 Old 08-29-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post


The better, more acoustically transparent the screen, the less distance between the screen to speakers is needed. We can hang right over in-walls with about one inch effective clearance.

Cheers,
Chris

 

 

Good to know since it is one of your screens going up on my wall!  I think I'll have about 4".


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post #302 of 400 Old 09-02-2013, 12:13 PM
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We're moving into a house that's going to have a media room that's 12x21 and I was wanting to do a false wall and at AT screen. The ceiling starts at 8' high on both the left and screen wall and slopes up to 10' high at 32" out from each wall. I was hoping to have my false wall between 24-30" deep to save some space for additional seating but that's going to bring both ceiling slopes into play. Anyone have pics of how they dealt with something similar? I'm guessing it shouldn't be a huge hassle once the angles are figured out as my top beam was going to start at 8' high to start with. I'd just need to fiddle around with the top panel that's going to go over the screen.
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post #303 of 400 Old 09-02-2013, 12:56 PM
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Mr. Big.

Gonna use your approach in my theater! Thanks again!

Chip

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My Movie Library - and still growing!

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post #304 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 05:44 PM
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I am working on my screen wall design and this thread has been very helpful.  Thanks Big and others!

 

I am using Fabrimate track for my walls and I was curious if anybody has used it for the panels around the screen? (edit)

 

Even with the normal (2) vertical & (1) horizontal goal post design some blocking or edge needs to be added to the sides for the fabric wrapped panels to land on.  I could use this 1" edge to mount the track.

 

Thoughts?

 

Screen Wall - Fabricmate.pdf 5k .pdf file

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File Type: pdf Screen Wall - Fabricmate.pdf (5.4 KB, 39 views)

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #305 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I am working on my screen wall design and this thread has been very helpful.  Thanks Big and others!

I am using Fabrimate track for my walls and I was curious if anybody has used it for the screen wall?

Even with the normal (2) vertical & (1) horizontal goal post design some blocking or edge needs to be added to the sides for the fabric wrapped panels to land on.  I could use this 1" edge to mount the track.

Thoughts?

Screen Wall - Fabricmate.pdf 5k .pdf file

I used Fabricmate track along with Bigs minimalist approach to screen wall. The issue you'll run into is sagging on the bottom of screen due to fabric tension. I used 5/4 Finger jointed SPF......the same material for exterior trim. In 16' lengths.
I had to come back latter and double up due to sag on bottom which is now fine.

Another issue is transition from screen wall and side walls. The remedy was using 2X4's ripped and use as firring then added SPF to make an L so track was doubled up, side by side. Grey fabric and black fabric transitioned perfectly with no gap. I don't know why more people don't use fabric track........so easy to use and is a time saver.

Sorry, I'm typing from my phone and can't read what I wrote.biggrin.gif
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post #306 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 06:35 PM
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Oops........after talking with wife since she did the fabric......she's a quilter.......she said we only used one fabric track and doubled up fabric into one channel. Sorry.......its been a while!
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post #307 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

I used Fabricmate track along with Bigs minimalist approach to screen wall. The issue you'll run into is sagging on the bottom of screen due to fabric tension. I used 5/4 Finger jointed SPF......the same material for exterior trim. In 16' lengths.
I had to come back latter and double up due to sag on bottom which is now fine.

Are you talking about the screen or panels around it? I was talking about using the fabricmate track for the panels around the screen.

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #308 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Even with the normal (2) vertical & (1) horizontal goal post design some blocking or edge needs to be added to the sides for the fabric wrapped panels to land on.  I could use this 1" edge to mount the track.

 

Thoughts?


Here is a modified version of the minimalist screen wall with 1x2 blocking around the perimeter (along ceiling, walls and floor). In my case, I'm using the blocking to attach the panels with ball and socket speaker grill pegs but I guess you could use it for the Fabricmate track. The screen itself only comes to the midpoint of the top and bottom cross pieces and the two vertical goal posts, so the other half is available for panel attachment.



All lumber was 1x2 and 1x4 FJP from HD. More detailed pics including perimeter blocking can be found here.
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post #309 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Are you talking about the screen or panels around it? I was talking about using the fabricmate track for the panels around the screen.

No fabric panels.................all fabric track. Goal posts are used to attach fabric channels..........................the fabric channel is attach to ceiling,floor, side walls and the framing for the screen. Screen covers end pieces..............

This may help you visualize it...............the top and bottom screen frame, along with side goal posts are using fabric channel screwed in................screen has z chips which hide fabric attachments. Screen frame hides the SPF................the screen has no overlap to reflect light.


.
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post #310 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post



.

That is similar to the framing I used.....................but I did not use supports underneath screen upon the advise of a highly qualified expert. Advise was due to acoustics........................

Doubling up cross member has removed sagging issue.................
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post #311 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 08:06 PM
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Do you know the specifics as to why the supports would negatively impact acoustics (assuming they don't fall directly in front of a speaker or sub)?
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post #312 of 400 Old 11-17-2013, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Do you know the specifics as to why the supports would negatively impact acoustics (assuming they don't fall directly in front of a speaker or sub)?

From my understanding..............and what I was told, even though framing would not fall in front of driver.....................reflections would be affected due to omni-directional wave pattern of subs. Besides, at the time....... I had no idea of how many subs in front and took the advice as gospel.
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post #313 of 400 Old 11-18-2013, 02:16 PM
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Do most people have the screen stick out further than the fabric around the screen or is the front of the screen flush with the fabric around the screen?

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #314 of 400 Old 11-18-2013, 02:36 PM
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I have 1" thick fabric panels and a 1.6" thick screen frame, so the face of the frame sticks out a bit. Both are wrapped in velvet so it's too dark to even notice. Definitely not worth trying to make them flush.
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post #315 of 400 Old 11-18-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Do most people have the screen stick out further than the fabric around the screen or is the front of the screen flush with the fabric around the screen?

Having fabric flush with screen would be a nightmare..........use the frame of your screen to hide fabric track............and make sure your fabric track does NOT extend into projection screen material.

Another tip......you may have to fir bottom of screen so screen is plumb.....don't want geometry issues with that Lumis! wink.gif
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post #316 of 400 Old 11-22-2013, 06:34 AM
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Hey Big - Just curious, I know you are using the 4pi speakers now, but what speakers are you using in the picture above?
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post #317 of 400 Old 11-22-2013, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Those were the Audax HT kits from Madisound. The Audax Home theater system was designed by Joe D'Appolito There was a time when there were a few threads around on various forums about the speakers. The drivers aren't made anymore. I'm still using the surrounds which use the same tweeter with one woofer.
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post #318 of 400 Old 11-23-2013, 04:31 AM
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Hi All,

as I just ordered a 100" 16/9 Stewart Luxus Deluxe AT screen, I need now to think about building my screen wall. As my HT room is a converted bedroom, the front wall is where I have windows, but I covered them with thick black curtains with black out material, so no problem with light coming in. I was thinking of building a sort of cabinet (more like a huge box) to act like my screen frame + put a shelf for my speakers. As my room is not that big (16' x 10' x 8.75'), I was planning to build a small cabinet on the bottom part of the screen with 3 layers of shelves for various stuff / storage if I need it in the future. This cabinet will be placed in front of the windows, so windows will not be close or open during the life of this room as my HT room (but I will not condemned those windows). Is it a good idea, I have 2 subs that will be inside my screen wall, will that cabinet create some kind of problem for the sound ? As for soundproofing material, I don't think in Thailand we have any 703 material, could you recommend something more generic ? How to build your own bass trap ?

Hope it is the right thread to ask my questions. I follow construction threads of BigmouthinDC and I really love his work. Hope he was in Thailand !!!

Have fun.

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post #319 of 400 Old 11-23-2013, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post

I follow construction threads of BigmouthinDC and I really love his work. Hope he was in Thailand !!!

A round trip air fare is $1400 from DC, you would need to provide all the tools and materials as I'm not going to try to explain what a table saw is doing in my luggage to the customs agent.

As for insulation this table might help identify potential alternatives available in your country.

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
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post #320 of 400 Old 11-23-2013, 06:36 AM
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Hey BigmouthinDC,

thanks for the info. Wow, that list is long .... Are you serious about doing some work in Thailand ? Please PM me with your rate. I am working in the oilfield, so I am home for 1 month at a time, so the construction will need to be in less than a month. You can stay at my place, unless you come with more than 1 person ....

What about my idea of the cabinet, is it ok or there is some reason why I should not do that.

Have a good day

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post #321 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 01:31 PM
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I am having a hard time sourcing the 5/4 finger jointed lumber. I have tried all of the lumber yards in South Houston and my local HD and Lowes. The 1" (.75" finished) is much more common. It looks like this is what you used Spaceman. Any issues?

Any other thoughts for alternatives?

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #322 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I am having a hard time sourcing the 5/4 finger jointed lumber. I have tried all of the lumber yards in South Houston and my local HD and Lowes. The 1" (.75" finished) is much more common. It looks like this is what you used Spaceman. Any issues?

Any other thoughts for alternatives?

Confused........

5/4 is extremely easy to find. 5/4 SPF can be found in 16 ft lengths and is used for exterior trim. Find the smooth stuff, not the rough edge stuff.

I would use 5/4 X 4" X 16 ft and rip in half.

Can't believe you are having a hard time finding material........it's a staple for exterior trim in the Pacific Northwest!
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post #323 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Our local 5/4 comes from Chile.

You could cut strips of a good void free hard wood plywood glue layers together overlapping the seams.

If you can find some really good 2x4 material you can make that work.

I looked at HD online the houston area does not stock the SKU used in this part of the world.
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post #324 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I am having a hard time sourcing the 5/4 finger jointed lumber. I have tried all of the lumber yards in South Houston and my local HD and Lowes. The 1" (.75" finished) is much more common. It looks like this is what you used Spaceman. Any issues?

No issues here. The 1" stock (3/4" finished) is what the local HDs carry. I even brought the SKU that Big photographed a few years back to my local HD to see if the 5/4" was just out of stock and was told it's not available in our area. The 1" stuff worked fine in my room. I also just used it for the false wall and false wall fabric frames in 7channelfreak's room. The long cross piece that supports the screen will sag a bit without a mid-support, but I think that's the case with the 5/4" designs as well, at least on the really wide screens.

Here is a link to the 1x2s I used around the perimeter of the false wall. 1x4s of the same product were used for the L-shaped goal posts and cross pieces. I'm guessing this is the same stuff you found.
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post #325 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

No issues here. The 1" stock (3/4" finished) is what the local HDs carry. I even brought the SKU that Big photographed a few years back to my local HD to see if the 5/4" was just out of stock and was told it's not available in our area. The 1" stuff worked fine in my room. I also just used it for the false wall and false wall fabric frames in 7channelfreak's room. The long cross piece that supports the screen will sag a bit without a mid-support, but I think that's the case with the 5/4" designs as well, at least on the really wide screens.

Here is a link to the 1x2s I used around the perimeter of the false wall. 1x4s of the same product were used for the L-shaped goal posts and cross pieces. I'm guessing this is the same stuff you found.

A single 5/4 X 4" will in fact sag..............................double up, no problem and no need for supports on bottom.................wonder it doubling up with local material would work too?
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post #326 of 400 Old 11-25-2013, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Our local 5/4 comes from Chile.

You could cut strips of a good void free hard wood plywood glue layers together overlapping the seams.

If you can find some really good 2x4 material you can make that work.

I looked at HD online the houston area does not stock the SKU used in this part of the world.

I may have found a solution at Lowes. Will this work? It comes in 5/4x6x10 and 5/4x8x10.


http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=143620-99899-54X610CAS1S&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3609230&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
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The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #327 of 400 Old 11-26-2013, 04:08 AM - Thread Starter
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my original objective in going with the FJ Pine is I wanted to buy straight wood that would stay straight. Most 2x wood will warp, curve, or cup. My design makes each part of the goal post out of an L assembly of two pieces which helps counter act the natural forces of the wood. Go look at the stack of that stuff at Lowes, If the pile looks good and everything is nice and straight that is one indication of the suitability. If there are a few bowed pieces, that may be in your future even if you pick straight ones to bring home.

The other issue is length I wanted a single spanner for the top edge of my screen. so that limits your screen size
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post #328 of 400 Old 11-26-2013, 06:49 AM
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I used this material when I was redoing my screen and false wall recently as I also couldn't find 5/4 FJ pine. It's just mdf, so I'm not sure about the long term stability. So far it's working out pretty well.

http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/primed-mdf/5-4-x-4-x-16-primed-mdf-board/p-1441682-c-13148.htm

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #329 of 400 Old 11-26-2013, 07:04 AM
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The Lowe's stock looks promising. If for some reason you don't like it once you see it, you are more than welcome to come take a look at my false wall to see if you like the HD stock. I'm sure 7channelfreak would also let you examine his wall. It will be easy to see how his went together since the screen fabric isn't in the frame yet and the fabric panels haven't been wrapped. For what it needs to do, it's very sturdy.

I forgot what part of town you're in, but send me a PM if you're interested.
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post #330 of 400 Old 11-26-2013, 08:30 AM
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What a great thread!  This has saved me thousands of dollars in having a carpenter build me a full wall with custom spaces for speakers, screen, etc. and I think the final look of this is going to be super cool!  I'm no handy man by any means but this took me only about 3 hours on a Sunday afternoon.  Carpet goes in today and then going to try my hand at building the other 4 frames to cover the rest of the areas where the speakers will be behind. While not perfect, I think it's going to do the trick.

 

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