Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 402 Old 03-06-2014, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Here is a modified version of the minimalist screen wall with 1x2 blocking around the perimeter (along ceiling, walls and floor). In my case, I'm using the blocking to attach the panels with ball and socket speaker grill pegs but I guess you could use it for the Fabricmate track. The screen itself only comes to the midpoint of the top and bottom cross pieces and the two vertical goal posts, so the other half is available for panel attachment.



All lumber was 1x2 and 1x4 FJP from HD. More detailed pics including perimeter blocking can be found here.
love your false wall
do you have pictures of the panels with the ball and socket speaker grill pegs and how you used it.
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post #362 of 402 Old 03-06-2014, 08:33 PM
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No pics of the false wall panels with their balls and sockets, but I documented how I used them for my other panels towards the end of this post.
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post #363 of 402 Old 03-07-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

No pics of the false wall panels with their balls and sockets, but I documented how I used them for my other panels towards the end of this post.

thanks
i plan to use seymore av screen. their screen is 1.6 inch thick. if the panels are made using 1 inch thick frames will the gap between the framed and screen border be an issue. Thanks for your help
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post #364 of 402 Old 03-07-2014, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by san16 View Post

thanks
i plan to use seymore av screen. their screen is 1.6 inch thick. if the panels are made using 1 inch thick frames will the gap between the framed and screen border be an issue. Thanks for your help

I have that same screen and it doesn't bother me that the screen frame sticks out a little more than the surrounding panels. Both the screen and the surrounding panels are wrapped in black velvet so it's almost impossible to see that the screen sticks out 1/2" more than the panels.

If I was doing my screen wall panels again, I'd construct them like I did in 7channelfreak's build. Instead of ripping 1/2" plywood into strips and doubling it up for a 1" thick panel, I doubled up 1x2 fjp boards (the same ones used on the false wall). It was much faster than ripping plywood and for just 4 frames, not too expensive. The 1x2s measure 3/4" thick, so with 2 layers, those panels wound up being 1.5" thick. They look pretty seamless when placed next to the 1.6" thick Seymour frame.

Either way looks fine though.
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post #365 of 402 Old 03-07-2014, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have that same screen and it doesn't bother me that the screen frame sticks out a little more than the surrounding panels. Both the screen and the surrounding panels are wrapped in black velvet so it's almost impossible to see that the screen sticks out 1/2" more than the panels.

If I was doing my screen wall panels again, I'd construct them like I did in 7channelfreak's build. Instead of ripping 1/2" plywood into strips and doubling it up for a 1" thick panel, I doubled up 1x2 fjp boards (the same ones used on the false wall). It was much faster than ripping plywood and for just 4 frames, not too expensive. The 1x2s measure 3/4" thick, so with 2 layers, those panels wound up being 1.5" thick. They look pretty seamless when placed next to the 1.6" thick Seymour frame.

Either way looks fine though.

thanks i think i will go the doubled up 1x2 fjb boards
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post #366 of 402 Old 04-04-2014, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I have that same screen and it doesn't bother me that the screen frame sticks out a little more than the surrounding panels. Both the screen and the surrounding panels are wrapped in black velvet so it's almost impossible to see that the screen sticks out 1/2" more than the panels.

If I was doing my screen wall panels again, I'd construct them like I did in 7channelfreak's build. Instead of ripping 1/2" plywood into strips and doubling it up for a 1" thick panel, I doubled up 1x2 fjp boards (the same ones used on the false wall). It was much faster than ripping plywood and for just 4 frames, not too expensive. The 1x2s measure 3/4" thick, so with 2 layers, those panels wound up being 1.5" thick. They look pretty seamless when placed next to the 1.6" thick Seymour frame.

Either way looks fine though.

getting ready to treat front wall with oc 703. how do i attach the boards to the dry wall. Contractor is recommending liquid nails. Is that ok or do we need to use anything else
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post #367 of 402 Old 04-04-2014, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san16 View Post
getting ready to treat front wall with oc 703. how do i attach the boards to the dry wall. Contractor is recommending liquid nails. Is that ok or do we need to use anything else

 

I attached the OC 703 to my front wall using long screws with large fender washers.  I then covered the entire front wall with a single piece of accoustically transparent black cloth.

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post #368 of 402 Old 04-04-2014, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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instead of long screws and washers I grab Powerhead screws, It is a screw on steroids with a large flat head, http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13265.htm

there are other methods of attaching acoustical treatments, 3M Spray adhesive, impaling clips but a few screws goes quick
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post #369 of 402 Old 04-04-2014, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san16 View Post

getting ready to treat front wall with oc 703. how do i attach the boards to the dry wall. Contractor is recommending liquid nails. Is that ok or do we need to use anything else

It doesn't take much to hold up OC703. I just used some long finish nails and shot em in there so enough of the nail would go into the drywall to hold them up. Only needed a few nails per piece. If for whatever reason you need to take those pieces down (we had a pipe burst this winter, so had to take the entire room apart), you'll be thankful you didn't use liquid nails.
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post #370 of 402 Old 04-04-2014, 07:26 AM
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I used these:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_7764-1278-GC3_0__?productId=3581456
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post #371 of 402 Old 04-11-2014, 07:20 AM
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This thread was very helpful during my recent upgrade to a 2.35:1 AT screen so I thought I'd share my results:



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post #372 of 402 Old 04-11-2014, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefftr View Post

I used these:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_7764-1278-GC3_0__?productId=3581456

I used the same ones that you did but just days after I was done I saw that Ace Hardware has them in black.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=30685316&KPID=989856&pla=pla_989856

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #373 of 402 Old 04-11-2014, 11:22 AM
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Hey ZebraCatZebra (is there a story here?),

What you did is similar to what I'm planning on doing.  I have some tall tower speakers (Polk RTi A9) that I want to put behind an AT screen.

Looks like the way you did it you are blocking off the bottom of the speakers behind the screen.

Did you use some kind of AT material below the screen, and how did everything turn out with this kind of setup?

I was a bit worried that my tweeters would be higher than ear height, but not sure how much impact that has.

 

Thanks,

Bill

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post #374 of 402 Old 04-11-2014, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LoudDad View Post

Did you use some kind of AT material below the screen, and how did everything turn out with this kind of setup?
I was a bit worried that my tweeters would be higher than ear height, but not sure how much impact that has.

Bill,

I'm very happy with the way it turned out and would do it the same way over again. My tweeters are slightly above ear level of the first row but it doesn't make a difference in sound quality to me. Actually it sounds great with the sound coming from behind the screen.

For the material around the screen, at Jo-Anne fabric they had this material called stretchy velvet. Does a great job of absorbing light and when stretched over the frames it is very breathable and sound passes through without any issues that I can detect. The tweeters and mid range drivers are directly behind the Seymour screen and the sub and bass drivers are directly behind the stretchy velvet.

Here's a picture of the frames without the velvet. They are just held in place with friction and easily pop off when needed.

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post #375 of 402 Old 04-11-2014, 10:34 PM
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Zebracatzebra, how is your screen material mounted? It almost looks like it's mounted directly to the studs with no frame? It looks really good thanks for sharing your pictures.
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post #376 of 402 Old 04-12-2014, 09:13 AM
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Zebracatzebra, how is your screen material mounted? It almost looks like it's mounted directly to the studs with no frame? It looks really good thanks for sharing your pictures.

I built a frame out of 1x4 and then wrapped the screen around it and stapled it to the back. Then I used these french cleats to hang the frame from the horizontal beam.

http://t.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-13-Piece-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-Kit-with-Wall-Dogs-55312/202341625/

The fabric panels butt right up against the frame and absorb any light. This approach worked better for me than building a fabric wrapped frame then stapling the screen material to the back. I'd be happy to snap some pictures if you want to see any details, just let me know.
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post #377 of 402 Old 04-12-2014, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebracatzebra View Post


I built a frame out of 1x4 and then wrapped the screen around it and stapled it to the back. Then I used these french cleats to hang the frame from the horizontal beam.

http://t.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-13-Piece-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-Kit-with-Wall-Dogs-55312/202341625/

The fabric panels butt right up against the frame and absorb any light. This approach worked better for me than building a fabric wrapped frame then stapling the screen material to the back. I'd be happy to snap some pictures if you want to see any details, just let me know.

 

That's a very good idea. I was going to buy a frame but your idea I like better plus it should save me some money.

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post #378 of 402 Old 04-13-2014, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

instead of long screws and washers I grab Powerhead screws, It is a screw on steroids with a large flat head, http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13265.htm

there are other methods of attaching acoustical treatments, 3M Spray adhesive, impaling clips but a few screws goes quick

OC 703 is up. what is the best way to attach GOM FR701 black fabric in front of it. I put framing on all four borders of the wall and around the corner bass traps.
thanks
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post #379 of 402 Old 04-13-2014, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

instead of long screws and washers I grab Powerhead screws, It is a screw on steroids with a large flat head, http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13265.htm

there are other methods of attaching acoustical treatments, 3M Spray adhesive, impaling clips but a few screws goes quick

Can I please get some recommendations for carpet for my theater room. Looking for patterned black or dark grey.
thanks
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post #380 of 402 Old 04-13-2014, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Lowes has patterned dark grey. see Bacon Race, Also check out the stickey thread, "Show me your carpet"
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post #381 of 402 Old 04-13-2014, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by san16 View Post

OC 703 is up. what is the best way to attach GOM FR701 black fabric in front of it. I put framing on all four borders of the wall and around the corner bass traps.
thanks

I always use an upholstery stapler.
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post #382 of 402 Old 04-13-2014, 07:42 PM
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Can I please get some recommendations for carpet for my theater room. Looking for patterned black or dark grey.
thanks

Check out my thread in my signature. Just installed Royal Dutch Stanton Carlton in Blackstone. It's a black carpet with grey pattern.
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post #383 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
anything 2 1/2 or over.
BIG,
Have you ever built your minimalist design over a carpeted floor not a stage? Reason I ask is I'm not doing a stage on my second floor theater. I have carpeted the room and I am ready to build the false wall and screen. I would love to find a way to build the false wall without screwing through the brand new carpet but I don't have the creative construction mind to figure out how to do that. Any recommendations?
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post #384 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by san16 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC

instead of long screws and washers I grab Powerhead screws, It is a screw on steroids with a large flat head, http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Pow...tal-p13265.htm

there are other methods of attaching acoustical treatments, 3M Spray adhesive, impaling clips but a few screws goes quick


Can I please get some recommendations for carpet for my theater room. Looking for patterned black or dark grey.
thanks
I just did this. Look at my build. I used Stanton Carlyle in Blackstone.
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post #385 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 11:34 AM
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I'll be starting this effort shortly and plan on drawing it out to better visualize but I may need to run the support horizontally instead of vertically for a couple of reasons.

1. the false wall will be under part of a sloped ceiling. I could certainly figure out the angle and cut the top pieces at that angle if it comes to that
2. of bigger concern is that the room is already carpeted and I'd just assume not go thru the carpet into the subfloor when screwing down the bottom supports. might not pass the WAF in this case..

part of my problem with going with horizontal supports across the width of the room along the top and bottom of the screen is that my room is a little over 12' wide so I'm not going to be able to find a single board that would span the entire length of the room. If I could find a straight 12' board I could just add some blocking support that would attach into the side wall studs but finding a straight 12' board at Lowes and HD may prove problematic.. and of course having a board 20" off the ground running horizontally wall-to-wall would make access to the back of the screen a little more acrobatic

thoughts?
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post #386 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 12:09 PM
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I have the same dilemma with not wanting to anchor the false wall through the carpet. I'll be interested to see what solutions are offered.
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post #387 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebracatzebra View Post
This thread was very helpful during my recent upgrade to a 2.35:1 AT screen so I thought I'd share my results:

Did you use 2x4 or 1x4 for the black framing members? I like how you've minimized the need for running framing across the entire width of the floor/ceiling.
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post #388 of 402 Old 07-17-2014, 01:32 PM
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I built my wall on top of my stage, but my stage was carpeted. I can tell you that one screw through the base into the carpet will not likely cause any harm, however, I understand your concerns.

One thing you can do, make the vertical supports 1/4" - 1/2" longer than you originally planned and then they will friction fit on top of the carpet. Screw into the ceiling to anchor, and unless you're body checking the wall, it should stay in place.
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post #389 of 402 Old 07-18-2014, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith AP View Post
Did you use 2x4 or 1x4 for the black framing members? I like how you've minimized the need for running framing across the entire width of the floor/ceiling.
I used 2x4's to make the frame and I'm happy with the way everything is holding up. I'm sure you could use 1x4's if you wanted, I just went the 2x4 route.
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post #390 of 402 Old 07-20-2014, 05:09 PM
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I just finished my 1x4" goalpost screen wall. I made "legs" for the back of it so I wouldn't have to screw through the carpet. Seems rock solid to me.Click image for larger version

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