Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 14 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 415 Old 07-21-2014, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post
I just finished my 1x4" goalpost screen wall. I made "legs" for the back of it so I wouldn't have to screw through the carpet. Seems rock solid to me.Attachment 172338
I will interested in seeing how this comes together. You have a lot of interesting elements to build around. Soffit/Crown and doorway on the other side. How will you address the doorway?
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post #392 of 415 Old 07-22-2014, 11:52 AM
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I will have a black panel on the side of the left upright. That will box in the screen wall. The door there won't be an issue once it goes up as I might just paint it the room wall color to help it disappear when the lights go down.
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post #393 of 415 Old 07-23-2014, 01:37 PM
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When framing up the front wall (not the screen wall) I should decouple it from the joists, correct?

However, when doing the screen wall, if I am doing channel+clips+DW+GG+DW on the ceiling, I would assume that I don't need to further decouple the false screen wall with clips, correct?

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post #394 of 415 Old 07-23-2014, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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correct as long as you just connect the top to the decoupled ceiling.
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post #395 of 415 Old 07-23-2014, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
correct as long as you just connect the top to the decoupled ceiling.
Thanks BIG!

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post #396 of 415 Old 07-28-2014, 08:18 AM
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BIG/et al, What do you recommend using for the black wall panels around the screen? Mine need to be AT but I want them to black it out as much as possible.
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post #397 of 415 Old 07-28-2014, 09:31 AM
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I just used some black GOM FR701 for the side/top/bottom panels. The Rose brand speaker cloth would also work for a little less $$. I used it to cover the back wall behind my screen. It's not quite as thick, but I would say it's passable.

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post #398 of 415 Old 07-28-2014, 10:05 AM
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Should I use Velvet above the screen to black out the crown then use the speaker cloth or something similar on the sides and the bottom?
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post #399 of 415 Old 07-28-2014, 10:16 AM
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From an aesthetics point of view, I don't know that I would use different fabrics. Are you asking about the crown behind your screen or the crown above it?
If it was me, I would be looking at covering the wall behind your screen anyway with some sort of absorptive material. You could use that opportunity to mask the crown behind your screen. Alternatively, you could fill the empty area in the top panel with cardboard or foam insulation to prevent light reflecting through.

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post #400 of 415 Old 07-28-2014, 11:14 AM
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I am mostly focused on blacking out the area immediately around the screen for now. I agree the area behind the screen needs to be darkened in areas also. Should I just wrap the crown above the screen in black velvet or speakercloth?
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post #401 of 415 Old 09-11-2014, 10:57 AM
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Thank you for the guidance from this thread. I framed the space for my false wall. The screen is on order and I should have it this next week or so. Thank you all for your help.

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post #402 of 415 Old 09-13-2014, 05:16 PM
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post #403 of 415 Old 11-04-2014, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
correct as long as you just connect the top to the decoupled ceiling.
And if the ceiling is not decoupled, attach the top with RSIC-04 clips?

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post #404 of 415 Old 11-04-2014, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not convinced that degree of isolation is really necessary,
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post #405 of 415 Old 11-05-2014, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I'm not convinced that degree of isolation is really necessary,
So, in your opinion, if complete sound isolation wasn't done on the ceiling walls, there's still no need to decouple the screen wall from the ceiling?

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post #406 of 415 Old 11-05-2014, 04:55 PM - Thread Starter
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post #407 of 415 Old 01-02-2015, 08:44 AM
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I'm finally at the screen wall phase and have tried 3 of the big box stores looking for 5/4 FJP. All I can find is the 1x stuff. Any reason not to use that? Screen size is 126" diag. 16x9 from Seymour. Not sure of the weight, but hoping the 1x material will suffice.

Also, approximately how far from the top of the screen frame is the mounting bracket? Trying to figure out exactly where to mount the cross member.

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post #408 of 415 Old 01-02-2015, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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On Falcon screens I plan the top of the clip will be 1/4 inch below the top of the screen frame. Most other brands are about the same.
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post #409 of 415 Old 01-02-2015, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
On Falcon screens I plan the top of the clip will be 1/4 inch below the top of the screen frame. Most other brands are about the same.
Thanks. Is the 1x material OK to use?

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post #410 of 415 Old 01-02-2015, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I haven't tried using 3/4 inch thick material. I can see it working but I would use one or two mid span supports for the cross piece of the goal post to be sure it doesn't sag.
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post #411 of 415 Old 01-02-2015, 09:47 PM
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I'm dealing with a sloped/vaulted ceiling at the front wall and was thinking of squaring it off with a soffit equal to the depth of the false wall.. the ceiling slope goes about 32" into the room but I've only got about 20" for the depth of the false wall so I was going to run a 2x4 the length of the room along the slope at 20" from the wall and screw into the ceiling joists and then rip the uprights at the ceiling angle and screw into the mounted 2x4 on the ceiling slope.. then attach a 1x4 to the face of the uprights at the height of the top of the screen and use that as the top anchor for the goal post to avoid any sagging.. I'll try to come up with some crude drawings to better convey things but that does make sense?
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post #412 of 415 Old 01-03-2015, 04:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Sounds like it should work, need to see the sketch
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post #413 of 415 Old Yesterday, 09:54 AM
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How is everyone getting the two up rights tight to the floor and ceiling? Do they need to be pounded into place? Cutting them and .125 short? Just thought you would run into the same issue if the columns were not cut short. I could only find 1x4 fjp at my local stores as well. I will plan putting 2 supports on the main horizontal hanger.
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post #414 of 415 Old Yesterday, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel 48 View Post
How is everyone getting the two up rights tight to the floor and ceiling? Do they need to be pounded into place? Cutting them and .125 short? Just thought you would run into the same issue if the columns were not cut short. I could only find 1x4 fjp at my local stores as well. I will plan putting 2 supports on the main horizontal hanger.
I set my uprights on a top & bottom plate and screwed that the floor/ceiling. You can somewhat see it in the picture. The uprights were cut to fit and tapped into place with little effort.

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post #415 of 415 Unread Today, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabsabre View Post
I'm dealing with a sloped/vaulted ceiling at the front wall and was thinking of squaring it off with a soffit equal to the depth of the false wall.. the ceiling slope goes about 32" into the room but I've only got about 20" for the depth of the false wall so I was going to run a 2x4 the length of the room along the slope at 20" from the wall and screw into the ceiling joists and then rip the uprights at the ceiling angle and screw into the mounted 2x4 on the ceiling slope.. then attach a 1x4 to the face of the uprights at the height of the top of the screen and use that as the top anchor for the goal post to avoid any sagging.. I'll try to come up with some crude drawings to better convey things but that does make sense?
Sounds like it will work. I was also dealing with a sloped ceiling. You can see how I dealt with it in my theater build thread starting here.
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