Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 15 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 24Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #421 of 435 Old 02-01-2015, 11:09 PM
Member
 
DrBabs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
I would try securing the screen wall to the stage with more screws, 20+. If it is tight it can't rattle. If that doesn't work take it apart and insert some rubber (Carpet pad or hardwood underlay) I would also set the subs on sand filled stands and decouple from the screen wall frame.



You could try just buying a package of the plastic composite shims and forcing underneath the bottom plate.

If the stage itself is rattling you definitely need to decouple the subs from the stage, back to the sand idea

Big, how do you suggest that I decouple the stage from the framed screen-wall , if the screen wall sits on top of the stage? would i attach the screen wall horizontally to the sides and the ceiling and just suspend the wall/ goal posts?
DrBabs is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #422 of 435 Old 02-02-2015, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 22,815
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1222 Post(s)
Liked: 1107
IMHO decoupling A goal post minimalist design screen frame from the stage or ceiling overhead is at best an academic exercise with no audible result.

I build my uprights a little less than the area height, you could leave a gap and insert a rubber pad if you wanted on the top and bottom, then drill holes in the top and bottom attachment blocks bigger than the screw diameter and when you screw it don't over tighten. Then the frame is actually just floating on rubber. The screws would just keep it in position and from tipping over.
DrBabs likes this.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #423 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 09:24 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brian Fineberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,682
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1784 Post(s)
Liked: 1607
quick question...

If i am building this..the top of the goal pasts will go into blocks attached to ceiling..how should I secure the bottom of the posts if Im going onto concrete? I want the wall to sturdy yet removable if needed

thanks in advace

Panasonic 65VT30 | Panasonic AE8000 HD PJ | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-5 gen |Emotiva XPA-200| PSA MT110 x 3 FL/C/FR | PSA MT110sur surrounds | 3 - PSA XS30 (1 SE) | OPPO 103 |

the SadieMax HT build thread - my first build
Brian Fineberg is online now  
post #424 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 09:39 AM
Member
 
genofive0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 157
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
quick question...

If i am building this..the top of the goal pasts will go into blocks attached to ceiling..how should I secure the bottom of the posts if Im going onto concrete? I want the wall to sturdy yet removable if needed

thanks in advace
If I had to build on concrete I would drill a hole and use a concrete anchor
Like this and still use a rubber pad underneath, Then again I would hate drilling into my slab :/ almost makes more sense to build up the floor
genofive0 is offline  
post #425 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 09:52 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brian Fineberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,682
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1784 Post(s)
Liked: 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by genofive0 View Post
If I had to build on concrete I would drill a hole and use a concrete anchor
Like this and still use a rubber pad underneath, Then again I would hate drilling into my slab :/ almost makes more sense to build up the floor
yeah not doing that! haha

maybe I will put it on plywood "feet" to give it more stability

Panasonic 65VT30 | Panasonic AE8000 HD PJ | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-5 gen |Emotiva XPA-200| PSA MT110 x 3 FL/C/FR | PSA MT110sur surrounds | 3 - PSA XS30 (1 SE) | OPPO 103 |

the SadieMax HT build thread - my first build
Brian Fineberg is online now  
post #426 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 10:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
blipszyc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,769
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
quick question...

If i am building this..the top of the goal pasts will go into blocks attached to ceiling..how should I secure the bottom of the posts if Im going onto concrete? I want the wall to sturdy yet removable if needed

thanks in advace
If you use just enough pad underneath the posts, the friction alone should hold them in place with screws into the ceiling for extra security. Then you only need to remove the top screws to remove them, if needed.

Visit the Lipszyc Home Theater! 1.0
2.0 done and finally posted! - Theater 2.0

And now...The Queen City Theater (3.0)
blipszyc is offline  
post #427 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 10:21 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Brian Fineberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,682
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1784 Post(s)
Liked: 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
If you use just enough pad underneath the posts, the friction alone should hold them in place with screws into the ceiling for extra security. Then you only need to remove the top screws to remove them, if needed.
cool.. should I drill holes before screwing into the FJP ?

Panasonic 65VT30 | Panasonic AE8000 HD PJ | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-5 gen |Emotiva XPA-200| PSA MT110 x 3 FL/C/FR | PSA MT110sur surrounds | 3 - PSA XS30 (1 SE) | OPPO 103 |

the SadieMax HT build thread - my first build
Brian Fineberg is online now  
post #428 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 10:41 AM
AVS Special Member
 
blipszyc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,769
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post
cool.. should I drill holes before screwing into the FJP ?
I always drill first to prevent splitting.

Visit the Lipszyc Home Theater! 1.0
2.0 done and finally posted! - Theater 2.0

And now...The Queen City Theater (3.0)
blipszyc is offline  
post #429 of 435 Old 03-27-2015, 12:56 PM
Member
 
genofive0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 157
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked: 31
Agree 100% drill first. I just finished mine a few hours ago. I counter sunk and also used titebond glue
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20150327_124711_1427486252849.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	51.6 KB
ID:	630241  
genofive0 is offline  
post #430 of 435 Old 04-30-2015, 11:43 AM
Member
 
bruzer79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post
If you use just enough pad underneath the posts, the friction alone should hold them in place with screws into the ceiling for extra security. Then you only need to remove the top screws to remove them, if needed.
I was wondering the same thing. So Im glad I stuck with this thread until the end. Im going to give this a shot. I want to use the goal post screen wall to put my screen in front of my sump pump, more so than to maintain any type of acoustical transparency. Hope my HD sells the 5/4 FJP...
bruzer79 is offline  
post #431 of 435 Old 04-30-2015, 01:54 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Brian Fineberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,682
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1784 Post(s)
Liked: 1607
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruzer79 View Post
I was wondering the same thing. So Im glad I stuck with this thread until the end. Im going to give this a shot. I want to use the goal post screen wall to put my screen in front of my sump pump, more so than to maintain any type of acoustical transparency. Hope my HD sells the 5/4 FJP...
it works perfectly on the carpet padding....super sturdy

Panasonic 65VT30 | Panasonic AE8000 HD PJ | Emotiva XMC-1 | Emotiva XPA-5 gen |Emotiva XPA-200| PSA MT110 x 3 FL/C/FR | PSA MT110sur surrounds | 3 - PSA XS30 (1 SE) | OPPO 103 |

the SadieMax HT build thread - my first build
Brian Fineberg is online now  
post #432 of 435 Old 06-02-2015, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 22,815
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1222 Post(s)
Liked: 1107
Last screen frame at White Oaks I realized I could eliminate the cross bar on the goal posts. Just attached some screen hangers from the bottom of the soffit.






Elill and bsuave like this.

Last edited by BIGmouthinDC; 06-02-2015 at 06:34 AM.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
post #433 of 435 Old 06-02-2015, 03:06 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Elill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,564
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 49 Post(s)
Liked: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Last screen frame at White Oaks I realized I could eliminate the cross bar on the goal posts. Just attached some screen hangers from the bottom of the soffit.
Thanks for the inspiration Big, this is going to save me half a days work. Cheers!

Peter the Greek

Downunder Theatre MkII
List of Pro Designers
Glacial paced construction Since 2009
"what is worth knowing is difficult to learn"
Elill is offline  
post #434 of 435 Old 06-02-2015, 06:34 PM
Member
 
LoudDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post
Thanks for the inspiration Big, this is going to save me half a days work. Cheers!
Hey Jeff,
Was that really simpler to have those three rectangles hanging down instead of just the one piece across?
LoudDad is offline  
post #435 of 435 Old 06-02-2015, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 22,815
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1222 Post(s)
Liked: 1107
yes given the fact that there wasn't a long enough piece of wood to span the top within 50 miles of this project. The max in stock was 12 ft. not the 16 I'm used to. I would have had to put in mid span supports for the long cross piece so all in all this was easier.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off