Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 17 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #481 of 496 Old 08-25-2016, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Incorrect, why? I don't have OSB on my ceiling.
I don't know, I just figured dry wall was flimsy. I guess it's the whole, not too much sheer type principle?

To be clear, in the most minimalist form, it is just essentially two poles, right?
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post #482 of 496 Old 08-27-2016, 06:46 PM
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@BIGmouthinDC I've used this thread as a blueprint of sorts for the very near future remodel of my bonus room/ht. I can't thank you enough for providing your insight to the rest of us diy'ers trying to save a buck and create a room that our family's can enjoy.

I do have a question though. How exactly are you guys framing your AT screens? My plan is to use an AT fabric like white spandex over black/grey spandex. For some reason I haven't found how you or anyone else framed their screen. I know your original 16:9 screen was hung on top of the false wall. Did you friction fit your screen in the CIH setup?

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post #483 of 496 Old 08-27-2016, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
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post #484 of 496 Old 08-27-2016, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
Thanks for the pics, they are extremely helpful. And the mid span support advice is great, I never would've thought about that...at least not until I had finished mounting it and realized after the fact.

When you say you surround the screen with some type of black fabric frames, are you referring to the large fabric frames that make up the entire screen wall or are you talking about a separate frame that specifically surrounds the screen (think black velvet border around a Carada screen).

Sorry for the ignorant questions, just trying to plan things out as efficiently as possible.

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post #485 of 496 Old 08-28-2016, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
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paint them black before wrapping in velvet.

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post #486 of 496 Old 08-28-2016, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
nearly every sceeen I've hung has been with z clips on the front face of a minimal frame, with black fabric frames surrounding it.

As for framing a DIY screen you want straight wood that is going to stay straight, so that rules out 2x4 studs, my go to wood is the finger joined pine boards, same as the minimal wall. If you use mid span supports make sure they are set back from the front so they don't show a crease through the fabric.
What would be your screen frame material of choice if you wanted to build a screen that could be curved for use with an anamorphic lens, then lay flat again for when the lens was not in place for 16:9 content ? Not permanently curved, but curveable. Length of top and bottom rails 12' for a 5x12 curveable 2.4 screen.

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post #487 of 496 Old 08-29-2016, 06:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Get some of the newer remote controlled bending lumber (BendFlex Wood Products) . With the injected nanomachines at the cellular level sending a signal will cause the wood to bend. After the required bend is achieved you send a signal with the remote and the nanos cease operation.
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post #488 of 496 Old 08-29-2016, 07:26 AM
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paint them black before wrapping in velvet.

Spoiler!
What is the thickness of those panels/pads?
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post #489 of 496 Old 08-29-2016, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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I didn't install them I think about 2 inches. Also they were glued on top of 2 inches of linacoustic.
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post #490 of 496 Old 08-31-2016, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
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this picture should only be viewed if you are wearing a bib to protect your shirt from the drool, then consider that there are 8 matching subs along the back wall and you get the idea.

Wait, what...?
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post #491 of 496 Old 09-03-2016, 05:51 PM
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Thanks for the info and tips Big!




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post #492 of 496 Old 09-06-2016, 09:28 AM
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I just finished up my screen wall this weekend and thought I would share my results here as well. Since I don't have a stage to attach the goal posts to I had to figure out how to secure the bottom to the floor so they don't move around. I ended up getting some adjustable feet like they put on the bottom of desks and I put them in the bottom of the posts. I left them loose enough to move them around, attached the top of the posts to a couple of the ceiling joists, then once I got the posts plumb in both directions I tightened up the feet to hold them in place.





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post #493 of 496 Old 09-06-2016, 10:03 AM
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can you show the feet closer up?
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post #494 of 496 Old 09-06-2016, 05:49 PM
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I bought window black rubber weather stripping and cut 4 pieces to fit around the top board against the ceiling. It held it in place. Then I used plastic furniture shims underneath once it was in place to get it tight and secure.
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post #495 of 496 Old 09-06-2016, 06:03 PM
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can you show the feet closer up?
This is the best picture of the feet i can get without taking it apart. Also since the mounting holes for the feet went all the way through the bottom plate, used a dremel to cut a small sot in the top of the screw of the feet so that i could use a screw driver inserted from the top to make it easier to adjust the feet.



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post #496 of 496 Old 09-13-2016, 01:14 PM
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This is the best picture of the feet i can get without taking it apart. Also since the mounting holes for the feet went all the way through the bottom plate, used a dremel to cut a small sot in the top of the screw of the feet so that i could use a screw driver inserted from the top to make it easier to adjust the feet.
This is an awesome idea! I am going to be building a false wall over a concrete floor with a drop ceiling, I wasn't sure how to attach the bottom without having to do a runner over to the actual front wall. This is a fantastic solution. My first option was to overbuild it massively - this is a much better option.

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