Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 546 Old 08-24-2007, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

I hate it that work is blocking photobucket

I wonder how many man years of productive time is spent in the office on AVS per year.
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post #32 of 546 Old 08-24-2007, 10:12 AM
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I refuse to answer that question.......
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post #33 of 546 Old 08-24-2007, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I wonder how many man years of productive time is spent in the office on AVS per year.

Shhhhhhhhh! Be very, very quiet ........

Bud
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post #34 of 546 Old 08-24-2007, 11:31 AM
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I plead the 5th.

Big, when are you going to get those countertops in, I'm ready to come over for a snack

A dumb man gets into trouble and doesn't know how to get out of it.
A smart man gets into trouble and knows how to get out of it.
A wise man never gets into trouble... Spastic Bat Theater Thread
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post #35 of 546 Old 08-24-2007, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChipWV View Post

Big, when are you going to get those counter tops in, I'm ready to come over for a snack

I had a little problem on the bar front, I screwed up and needed to order another piece of stainless laminate. Of course they were out of stock on June 23rd!!! I just called yesterday saying WTF and they stumbled all over themselves because they had forgotten to ship it out when it came in a few weeks ago.

Once that is done, it's off to the upholsters for the front and sides. Then i get to write the big check for the counter tops, order some bar stools and tile the back splash.

A project this much fun you don't want to eat all at once.

I'll probably even upgrade my projector before I finish this basement. The bathroom is still bare Drywall right now.

Just got back picking up 3 DVDs for this weekend.
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post #36 of 546 Old 01-20-2008, 09:55 AM
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Hey Big,

LOVE your theater. Do you have pics of your walls before the GOM went on?

thanks,
WS
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post #37 of 546 Old 01-20-2008, 10:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, counter tops are coming Tomorrow.

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post #38 of 546 Old 01-20-2008, 10:55 AM
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Thanks for that pic. Sorry should have been more specific. Do you have a pic of the making of the wall frames to hold the GOM? What did you put in the frames?


Also, do you know which Quadrate colour sandman used?

thank you,
WS
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post #39 of 546 Old 01-20-2008, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Sandman used the black with tan lines (Times Square I think).
He then had someone come in and dye each tan stripe RED!!!!!

He talked about it somewhere in the massive thread.

I think my color is Union Square and I will tell you that it wasn't my first choice but I let the wife win that particular battle.

As for my walls, at the time I wasn't doing anything different than the other guys putting up linacoustic and GOM so I didn't document it in detail.

I put up 6 furring strips horizontally on the walls. Two for each molding location. That allowed each piece of molding to sit securely with a strip supporting each edge. I ripped furring strips from 2x4's and 6's. they are one inch thick. I burned out my 20 year old table saw motor in the process.

I mounted them to the wall with liquid nails construction adhesive and a pneumatic stapler. Those that I left loose to wrap with fabric (corners) got attached with drywall screws.

After they were all up I painted them all black. As well as a few adjacent inches of the wall so that when the Linacoustic was up if there was a gap it wouldn't show through the fabric.

I then cut and fitted linacoustic and fastened to the walls with as few drywall screws as necessary because the fabric will hold the linacoustic to the wall. Many panels have no screws at all.
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post #40 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 11:39 AM
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I want to make a really simple false wall. I currently have no acoustical treatment at all. I might do this in the future as finances allow. All I have right now is an L-shaped room (the previous owner finished the basement). I don't really want to destroy this basement as it is a really nice party room (that is what he used it for but I don't really have parties in my basement). However, if I need to resell the house, I don't really want to destroy the work he put into it. Ideally I should have bought a house with an unfinished basement, or I should be ready to destroy a lot of the basement. But I don't really want to do that since this work was done only about 4 years ago.

However, I am ready to damage the walls a little bit. I already made some 2x3 inch holes in the wall trying route cables! I still have not done them yet though

I would really like to put a false wall with as little damage as possible. Is it ok if I just get some 2x4 and cut it so that it will stand up really snug between the carpetted concrete floor and the finished ceiling. And then use velcro like BigMouth did to attach framed AT screen fabric as well as black fabric. I was thinking of having four 2x4s standing vertically for the purpose of putting the velcro on and attaching the false wall. I don't want to built a stage.

Any comments!
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post #41 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 01:16 PM
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Big in DC - thanks, you just saved me a lot of time. I think many of us tend to over-think/over-engineer things.

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post #42 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bommai View Post

I want to make a really simple false wall. I currently have no acoustical treatment at all. I might do this in the future as finances allow. All I have right now is an L-shaped room (the previous owner finished the basement). I don't really want to destroy this basement as it is a really nice party room (that is what he used it for but I don't really have parties in my basement). However, if I need to resell the house, I don't really want to destroy the work he put into it. Ideally I should have bought a house with an unfinished basement, or I should be ready to destroy a lot of the basement. But I don't really want to do that since this work was done only about 4 years ago.

However, I am ready to damage the walls a little bit. I already made some 2x3 inch holes in the wall trying route cables! I still have not done them yet though

I would really like to put a false wall with as little damage as possible. Is it ok if I just get some 2x4 and cut it so that it will stand up really snug between the carpetted concrete floor and the finished ceiling. And then use velcro like BigMouth did to attach framed AT screen fabric as well as black fabric. I was thinking of having four 2x4s standing vertically for the purpose of putting the velcro on and attaching the false wall. I don't want to built a stage.

Any comments!

I would be hesitant to friction fit the framing for the false wall. The screen will weigh a fair amount and while you might be able to support it with such a wall, I would be scared that it would tip if anyone touched it or simply over time.

Plus, to get the framing snug enough you probably would scar the wall and ceiling quite a bit. Probably no more than screwing the frame into the walls and ceiling. So since you would have to make a few cosmetic repairs anyway when you took the false wall out, I would recommend screwing the framing so that you can be confident that it is safe and sturdy.

I used 1x3 poplar from HD to frame out my false wall. Easy to do and sturdy.
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post #43 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Only the fabric panels are friction fit in my build. The framing is screwed tight and the screen is bolted to the frame.
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post #44 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Only the fabric panels are friction fit in my build. The framing is screwed tight and the screen is bolted to the frame.


I too did that for the panels, but Bommai was asking about friction fitting the framing for the false wall
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post #45 of 546 Old 06-08-2008, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by av noob View Post

I would be hesitant to friction fit the framing for the false wall. The screen will weigh a fair amount and while you might be able to support it with such a wall, I would be scared that it would tip if anyone touched it or simply over time.

Plus, to get the framing snug enough you probably would scar the wall and ceiling quite a bit. Probably no more than screwing the frame into the walls and ceiling. So since you would have to make a few cosmetic repairs anyway when you took the false wall out, I would recommend screwing the framing so that you can be confident that it is safe and sturdy.

I used 1x3 poplar from HD to frame out my false wall. Easy to do and sturdy.

I figured that!! I don't have much carpentry experience. Do I just figure out where the ceiling truss is and screw in the vertical frame to the ceiling truss through the drywall ceiling then. Also, my floor is carpet covered concrete. How do I attach the frame to the floor. Can I screw into the concrete? How hard is that? Will that affect any moisture barrier that may be below the carpet. Should I remove the carpet where I am doing the false wall?

With respect to the framing, can I just do the vertical frames for the false wall? I am planning on making as big a screen as possible. So, with the AT screen plan, my screen would extend all the way to the right edge of the false wall. I will leave a little gap on the left side because it is blocked by a soffit. The total width of the screen itself would be about 116" (133" diagonal ) My LCR and Sub will all be behind the screen. However, since I will need several vertical supports here, I would assume I will have about four vertical supports. Two on either side of the center channel and two on either side of the L and R.

My plan is to get the most affordable AT screen fabric and frame it similar to how I did my first (currently being used) BOC and wood. I am wondering if the consistency of the AT screen fabric is similar to the BOC from Joanne fabric. Slightly rubbery so that I can wrap and staple.

Should I go with SeymourAV or Dazian for AT fabric. SeymourAV seems twice as expensive. I have the Epson 1080UB projector. Hopefully it can handle the bigger screen size and still be bright enough. I am currently displaying it as 103" wide screen (not 116") due to speakers blocking the picture. With the false wall, I can put the speakers behind.

Thanks all for your help. Anyone in the Kansas City area that can help me out
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post #46 of 546 Old 06-09-2008, 06:12 AM
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While the Phifer material from Seymour may twice as much as the Dazian, it is still a reasonable price for what it is. Also cheaper than what SMX material which was originally based on the Phifer material, would have been able to be had for when the material alone was being sold. Not sure of AT properties of Dazian and if they have been officially tested, but the Phifer product has been tested and proven. Also with the Phifer being a vynil covered product it cleans easily. With Dazian I had read before that someone needed to replace because it acted like a filter and basically got dirty over time with no easy way to clean. Good luck.
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post #47 of 546 Old 07-13-2008, 09:55 AM
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this is truly an amazing room..

im gread this crazy light bulb flickering in my head.....
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post #48 of 546 Old 11-02-2008, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I started with 2 rectangular frames of finger joined pine trim boards. Connected on the top and bottom with a cross member. I doubled up the outside leg with a space between the two boards.

I stood them in place and screwed through the top into the ceiling and bottom to the stage. Added Linacoustic and some leftover eggcrate from my speaker building projects. Also three blocks on the side walls.


This is GREAT! I am going to do this today! I have a couple questions, you said you started with 2 rectangular frames? I see only 4 boards, two inner and two outer? Then you say connected with a crossmember, like a "T" on the top and bottom, and if so was it horizontal with the screen wall? Lastly you said you put a space between the two outer boards, what was that for?

I am going to use 2x2's and I am going to do 4 in the middle for the screen. 2x4's on the ends so I have room to connect the panels. I will take pictures as well so others may be able to learn from it as well.

+Peace be with you+
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post #49 of 546 Old 11-02-2008, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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OK the way my stage and top marquee are built they actually hide the top and bottoms.

So, they are truly two rectangles think stud wall with a top and bottom plate and just two studs. The outer is a double. The inner of the outer sits right behind the edge of the screen frame and the outer of the outer provide back support to the GOM covered frames. I put spacers in just to make it wider I can't remember why but I must have had a reason.

I made the frames on my workbench then just stood them up and ran some screws into the stage and the drywall ceiling. Didn't bother to look for a joist wouldn't have helped because they run parallel.
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post #50 of 546 Old 11-02-2008, 03:20 PM
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Depending on how you will configure the panels, I also would consider putting boards along the side walls to give the side panelssomething to mount against.

I had one panel running the length of my screen above and below the screen and then one panel running the heigth of the false wall on each side of the screen. I ran a board along the ceiling, along the floor, and on each side wall. That made it easier to friction fit all the panels, both in terms of snug fit and in keeping the side panels on plane. The first time I put it all together I did not have the side boards and the side panels seemed too delicately fit -- now, I do have two little kids so I was concerned about someone pushing on it and the panel pushing through the false wall. With the side board that is not a problem.

And thanks to BMinDC for the inspiration and guidance.
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post #51 of 546 Old 11-02-2008, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by av noob View Post

Depending on how you will configure the panels, I also would consider putting boards along the side walls to give the side panelssomething to mount against.

If you look close I have three blocks instead of a continuous side board. I put them near the top and bottom and where the cross member is.

Can't remember why I went that route versus full boards.
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post #52 of 546 Old 11-03-2008, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you look close I have three blocks instead of a continuous side board. I put them near the top and bottom and where the cross member is.

Can't remember why I went that route versus full boards.

I probably looked at this thread a 100 times before building my wall and never noticed that detail.
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post #53 of 546 Old 11-03-2008, 06:30 AM
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My screen wall is very simple. It's basically a long GOM wrapped panel on the bottom that is velcro'd to 4 'boxes' framed out of 2x4's. One box on each side and two towards the middle to form the table on which the center channel sits.

Building the GOM frame for the lower part of the screen wall.


The SMX screen's mounting bracket (an 8' piece of aluminum that acts kind of like a french cleat) was screwed to the lower 2X4 on the ceiling.


With just the GOM panel and speakers in place. The bottom of the screen just leans slightly against the top of the GOM panel. You can kind of make out the tops of the 2x4 boxes


With the screen in place:
4AlexF and nolava like this.
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post #54 of 546 Old 11-03-2008, 09:13 AM
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Here is my attempt:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post125077

+Peace be with you+
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post #55 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 11:28 AM
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Sorry for bringing up this old thread. I'm thinking of switching to a false wall build like this and had a couple questions. How far away should the false wall be from the back wall - like 2.5 feet or so? And I should wrap the entire backwall in a linecoustic type material? And finally on a SMX type screen, how far back should the speakers be from the screen - like 10" if they are front ported?

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post #56 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 11:43 AM
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Does a less "structural" screen wall have any problems with vibration which might impact either screen or sound (rattles?)

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post #57 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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How much room to leave is really a personally issue based on how big your gear is going to be behind the screen. As far as how far back the speakers should be from SMX I can't remember Ruben's recommendation it may be over in the DIY Screen forum. My gut tells me 4-6 inches.

As for rattles mine doesn't. keep in mind that often the panels are wrapped in fabric so that provides some cushion. If you have rattles you should be able to add a few dabs of Velcro or pieces of fabric/foam in the right places and make it vanish.
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post #58 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Since I'm planning SMX for HT2.0 I went searching

On Rubens site:

"The speaker baffle can be 2" - 3" minimum up to 24" or more from the screen."

I also found this research that I can't interpret.

http://smxscreen.com/smx_audio_tests.htm
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post #59 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 12:54 PM
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Thanks for the info. Do you notice any video quality loss/issues with the weave/perf screen? I'm thinking of going to a 137" SMX Proline with a JVC RS10 - will it be bright enough to compensate for the "holes" in the screen?

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post #60 of 546 Old 02-02-2009, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't set mine up yet, there are some threads on SMX over on the screen forums. You'll get a better response over there.
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