Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 5 - AVS Forum
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post #121 of 382 Old 08-04-2011, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hehateme View Post

Can you explain slight shadow box framing effect means?

I believe this was just referring to having the screen sit a little recessed from the surrounding panels.
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post #122 of 382 Old 08-04-2011, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I believe this was just referring to having the screen sit a little recessed from the surrounding panels.

Correct I think it was about 3/8 of an inch
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post #123 of 382 Old 08-04-2011, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Elvi, I don't see any advantage to pocket screws in fact I think that weakens the design. Just drill pilot holes and assemble the thing on the floor. Use scraps of wood if necessary to help things in place.


Ditto that. Position the first board on edge, and the second board for the "L" on top of that, and balance it with scrap pieces underneath. The scrap pieces on edge are the same width as the first board, so you'll have your 90 degree angle.
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post #124 of 382 Old 08-05-2011, 11:58 PM
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BIG,

I see in your theater you used black GOM but in jesto's build you used Hancock Fabrics black micro velvet.

Are both AT? Would you prefer one over the other and, if so, why?

The obvious negative I could see for the velvet would be lint.

FWIW, I really find your threads so amazing and helpful.

Thanks.

The BAMA Theatre Build - feedback welcomed encouraged needed badly
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post #125 of 382 Old 08-06-2011, 03:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Man! Actually I switched to the micro velvet in my CIH remodel. There is discussion of the fabric in my thread. Lint? that is what those lint rollers are for. Plus theaters tend to be dark and you never see it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19369977
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post #126 of 382 Old 08-06-2011, 04:37 AM
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Hey Big. Not to sound like a broken record with all of the other posts, but awesome job on the home theater!

Anyway, I liked the carpet in your theater and was wondering who the manufacturer was and if you had a style and/or color number available. Thanks!
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post #127 of 382 Old 08-06-2011, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quadrate from Masland carpets. Sandman has it a different color.

http://www.maslandcarpets.com/blcolo...e&displayname=

I look at that and don't exactly recall what color we picked. I think Union square.
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post #128 of 382 Old 08-13-2011, 11:50 AM
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quick question. i am a newbie building a false wall, is there any reason that i should not use 2x4's for doing the panels. Thought i should ask before i start.
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post #129 of 382 Old 08-13-2011, 01:52 PM
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FJP is likely going to be straighter and remain straight for longer lengths... and it's not necessary for them to be that substantial. Also, if you have your speakers behind it all, there will be more mass for sound to reflect off of.
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post #130 of 382 Old 08-13-2011, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Finding studs that are straight and will stay straight has been an unrealized dream in my brief history of theater building. Maybe it is my OCD maybe it is where I shop. I just like my screen walls and fabric panels to stay true long after I build them.
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post #131 of 382 Old 08-13-2011, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, for the extra few bucks i think i will follow your recommendations
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post #132 of 382 Old 08-14-2011, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADDUpstate View Post

FJP is likely going to be straighter and remain straight for longer lengths... and it's not necessary for them to be that substantial. Also, if you have your speakers behind it all, there will be more mass for sound to reflect off of.

ADD, what dimension FJP are you speaking of?
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post #133 of 382 Old 08-14-2011, 05:53 AM
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16ft. Same ones that Big showed in this thread.
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post #134 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 09:38 AM
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Hi. Does the area behind the screen have to be the same height as the rest of the room? My ceiling height in the room is 7 and a half feet but the area behind the screen would only be 5 and a half. Thank you for any help. Hopefully this question hasn't been asked to death
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post #135 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 09:49 AM
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I wouldn't see that as a problem. If you are building the uprights of the wall forward of the lower height area, the room will appear to be all the same height. Will you have room to properly place your speakers under the lower height ceiling?
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post #136 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 11:08 AM
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There would be about 20-24 inches between the top of the speakers to the lower ceiling. I don't know if that's enough room though.
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post #137 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't see a problem, My screen wall hides an irregular depth wall.
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post #138 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 01:35 PM
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I just want to make sure I understand, 24" is enough of a clearance for the speakers that there won't be acoustic issues from it.
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post #139 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I like treating the hard surfaces behind the screen wall with a material like Linacoustic.
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post #140 of 382 Old 08-18-2011, 02:12 PM
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Cool. Thanks for your advice.
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post #141 of 382 Old 10-07-2011, 11:42 AM
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What is the purpose of building the support in L shape? What makes it better that having the piece of wood parallel (side by side) to each other?
I want to build a false wall for a screen that is not AT and the speakers will not be hidden behind it. It is a 2.35:1 120" Wison Art DIY. Any suggestions for the wall will be appreciated.
In case someone ask, why build a false wall? Because I want the speaker to have some space to breath and to put OC703 on the real wall.
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post #142 of 382 Old 10-07-2011, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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An L is more rigid than two pieces attached flat sides together. Also the edge is often straighter than the face. Putting them together at 90 degrees creates a straight corner.

I would still make the area around the WilsonArt AT. I would also treat the rear of the WilsonART with the OC703 so that you are not creating an area behind the screen where a lot of resonances could occur.
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post #143 of 382 Old 10-08-2011, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

An L is more rigid than two pieces attached flat sides together. Also the edge is often straighter than the face. Putting them together at 90 degrees creates a straight corner.

I would still make the area around the WilsonArt AT. I would also treat the rear of the WilsonART with the OC703 so that you are not creating an area behind the screen where a lot of resonances could occur.

Thanks for the reply Big. I will copy your design.
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post #144 of 382 Old 10-08-2011, 03:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm installing another today, pictures on the Making the BACON RACE theater by Monday.
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post #145 of 382 Old 10-16-2011, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Had a chance to build another screen wall for a client so I'm going to copy some of the details of the construction into this thread. This is for a 120 inch wide DIY 2.35:1 screen.


Shamelessly stealing this design for my wall. Picked up the FJ Pine at Home Depot yesterday and did some prep of the ceiling where the towers will attach today. I'll try to remember to post some pics back here as well as on my own build thread.
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post #146 of 382 Old 10-17-2011, 11:58 AM
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What would you guyz recommend? Putting up the studs (the support for the screen) before carpet or after carpet?
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post #147 of 382 Old 10-17-2011, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Before, then you have a definitive mark for them to carpet up to or around. Plan for the fabric panels to rest on the carpet. There is no need for the area behind the screen to look good, but an untreated hard space in that location can cause some reflection issues.
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post #148 of 382 Old 10-17-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Before, then you have a definitive mark for them to carpet up to or around. Plan for the fabric panels to rest on the carpet. There is no need for the area behind the screen to look good, but an untreated hard space in that location can cause some reflection issues.

Thanks Big. I was planning on carpeting the whole stage. I am going to do the carpet myself and was thinking it might be easier to do it before (not having to go around the posts). But I like the idea of after as well as it is easy to work on an unfinished surface. Choices, choices,....Decisions, decisions...
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post #149 of 382 Old 10-20-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Since this got brought up today I guess I should update this thread with my current screen wall which continued the theme of using the least amount of framing as possible. Discussed in my thread but here is a photo summary of the update to install a scope SMX screen.

Two uprights. A cross piece to hang the screen (with mid span support) and some friction fit Black fabric panels surrounding the screen.





Fitting the top and bottom fabric frames



installing fabric on side panel frame



I'm going to be building your wall very soon but I plan to do a CIH screen. I'll be using the DIY Seymour AT mat'l. My thought was to stretch this directly onto the 2 uprights to the desired scope size of 120". Then I would mount the upper, lower, left and right panels just as you have. I would then build 2 additional panels to manually mask the 16:9 screen when necessary. My thinking behind this method is that the screen will have an effective thickness of 0" so that when I place the 16:9 panels on, they won't be protruding beyond the 4 "permanent" panels. My one concern, though, is how would I attach these other two panels?

Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions please...

Thanks a lot,
Cory


BTW, I plan to start a build thread this weekend. Really getting excited!

If this is a good idea in general

The BAMA Theatre Build - feedback welcomed encouraged needed badly
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post #150 of 382 Old 10-20-2011, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I did a DIY screen for Jesto in the "Bethesda Build". In that case I made a frame for the screen (see the thread) and hung it on the cross piece with three zbar clips from Home Depot. Then four fabric frames around the screen.







Back to your idea if you size everything properly the masking panels could be friction fit and maybe you could use a couple of magnets for a little extra holding. If you plan it correctly you could recess the magnets in the side edges of the panels before wrapping with fabric and when the panels were in place they would make contact. You also need to plan a framework to stretch the fabric in all four directions so plan a cross piece at the bottom edge. Read up on the proper stapling sequence. Google stretching artist canvas.
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