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post #151 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 06:21 AM
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Hey BIG...

I just noticed from the pics of your theater that are quoted above that your equipment is behind the right false column up front. Surprised I never noticed that before...

How do you deal with changing BDs? Is the BD player not in that rack? Do you need to move that column everytime?

Just a curiosity.


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post #152 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ADDUpstate View Post

Hey BIG...

How do you deal with changing BDs? Is the BD player not in that rack? Do you need to move that column everytime?

Just a curiosity.

Hinges (eight 1x3s). The top and bottom molding is fixed in place.

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post #153 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the response, Big.

My follow up question would be "how do i attach the screen since I can't wrap it?" My plan was to staple directly onto the four pieces, no wrapping. I wonder if this method, done in the correct stapling order, would be ok.

Thanks again,
Cory


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post #154 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manthatsnice View Post

Thanks for the response, Big.

My follow up question would be "how do i attach the screen since I can't wrap it?" My plan was to staple directly onto the four pieces, no wrapping. I wonder if this method, done in the correct stapling order, would be ok.

Thanks again,
Cory

In theory it should work. The key is to get it tight with no ripples. You may want to get some push pins to hold it roughly in place while you staple. That is what I use when putting fabric on large stretches of wall furring.


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post #155 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Hinges (eight 1x3s). The top and bottom molding is fixed in place.



I should have known you would think of something pretty slick like that.

Nice work.


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post #156 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 03:22 PM
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Hey Big,
I was just looking through the Bethesda build and noticed that rather than doing a frame of velvet around the screen you and Jesto went with micro velvet panels. Do you think that GOM Anchorage Onyx would be black enough for this or should I make a velvet wrapped frame to place on top of my screen. (I'm planning on copying this screen wall design right down to the screen itself). Also, what did you do to space the panels out to create the slight shadow box effect (I'm assuming you used the 5/4 FJ pine for everything). Thanks for your help with this/
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post #157 of 402 Old 10-21-2011, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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GOM black is a long standing go to fabric for screen walls, I just like the micro velvet as a matter of personal choice, the theater I am working on now will have GOM FR701 black.

If any speakers are behind the panels you should be aware that Anchorage isn't quite as AT as the FR701

On the shadow box effect the screen was 5/4 inch thick and I made the panels 1 1/2. I ripped a 3 1/2. On some of the braces I added additional furring to make it flush.


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post #158 of 402 Old 10-29-2011, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Thanks guys for the compliments.

As for the Marquee over the stage:

the rounded piece was actually a double layer of PVC wood composite which bends pretty easy. The long straight pieces were the finger joined pine. The rest was ripped 2x4's The thing is 2 inches thick. Stuffed with 2 layers of Linacoustic, wrapped in black GOM. It's mounted to the ceiling with 2 screws (through the uprights in the back) and 2 tubes of Lock-tite adhesive (the stuff in the commercial where the guy glues the hammer to the ceiling)

here are some construction pics of the details.
details on that Finger joined stuff:

Measure twice cut both sides at once, my template:


Finished frame:


Big,
Awesome work! I saw you guys bacon build and researched your threads.
This is something I want to do and would like some additional details if possible.

1.Is this calculator appropriate?
http://www.jsommer.com/WM/?p=14

2. You say ripped 2x4's.....so just to make sure the frame is 2" thick/high?
3. How does one figure out the angles to cut the wood that connects the 'curved' area?
4. I'm still not clear where you mounted it with 2 screws? And just confirming 2 screws for the entire thing? (and Loctite power grab) No saging?
5. Are there any caveats to drilling a screw thru the GOM?
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post #159 of 402 Old 10-29-2011, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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1) looks right, not the one I've seen in the past but should work
2) just cut wood to two inches
3) I just laid the piece of wood on the floor over top of the drawn circle and eyeballed the line onto the wood, then went to the miter saw and aligned the blade with line on the wood. Doesn't have to be exact. While it is set cut an identical one for the other side.
4) I have since removed the screws, it is up there with Loctite power grab.
5) I didn't drill through the fabric in the visible area it was the back edge.


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post #160 of 402 Old 10-29-2011, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I just laid the piece of wood on the floor over top of the drawn circle and eyeballed the line onto the wood, then went to the miter saw and aligned the blade with line on the wood. Doesn't have to be exact. While it is set cut an identical one for the other side.

4) I have since removed the screws, it is up there with Loctite power grab.

Cool thanks! T'was my plan too. I'm surprised its still up there with loctite. I didnt have much luck with loctite when I first used it.
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post #161 of 402 Old 10-29-2011, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I had it pressed up there for 24 hours before removing the supports


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post #162 of 402 Old 11-17-2011, 08:20 AM
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Hey BIG,

Question regarding the lights that flood the screen wall...

I assume you place the 3-4 lights in a straight line in the ceiling (or upper stage in your case.) If so, what is the approximate distance from screen to light?

I want to make sure the light is not too focused but will instead create a nice wash like I see in Jesto's, Damelon's, and your theater.

Thanks,
Cory


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post #163 of 402 Old 11-17-2011, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't have down lights on my screen.

At Damelon's I think they were about 5 -8 inches from the screen surface. They were those small 3 inch halogen cans. The screen surface is an inch or two to the right of the red edge of the front light tray in this picture.





Ask him and he may go measure for you.


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post #164 of 402 Old 11-17-2011, 09:58 AM
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That's what I get for not looking back through your build...

It looks like you guys put Damelon's on the curve. I'll ask Damelon for the measurements.

Thanks.


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post #165 of 402 Old 12-03-2011, 05:31 AM
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Totally happy with this design and how it's working - just need to get the fabric panels built.









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post #166 of 402 Old 01-05-2012, 08:23 PM
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Big,

How much space do you have between the speakers and the screen? I read that you need at least 6", but yours looks closer than that. If its closer than 6", do you notice any problem with the sound? Thanks.

Rob
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post #167 of 402 Old 01-06-2012, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I had my theater before I built my speakers otherwise there would be 6 inches.

I posted some data over on the Pi speakers forum I'll copy it here. This was my first pass at measuring one of the 4Pi's in place in the wall with the microphone about 3 ft away. This is with the screen in place:





The speaker designers published graphs:



I'm actually pretty happy that what I built looks to me about what the Master designed. I wonder about that sawtooth uptick in the higher frequencies (that I can no longer hear). Maybe some screen interference issues.

When I finish building some new sub-woofers I'll be taking down the screen and at that point I can measure without the screen fabric.


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post #168 of 402 Old 04-25-2012, 08:59 PM
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So I was all pumped tonight as I headed to Home Depot to get my primed FJ Pine... The nice 5/4" stuff like Big showed pictures of. I even showed the picture of the price and part number, but they didn't carry it.... Ever...

The closest that they had in primed FJ pine was 1x stuff (.75" as we all know)...

They did have some exterior "trim" in 5/4" x 4" x 12", it was "textured" on one face, but very pricey. Something like $29-$30 a piece. Yikes!

My screen wall is basically 14' wide but 7'9" tall. I know that the width of the room doesn't matter much. The screen will be 10' wide if that makes a difference.

What else could I use? Thanks!

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post #169 of 402 Old 04-25-2012, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Really good 2x4s if anyone sells them in your area. Or you could laminate three layers of 1/2 inch plywood overlapping the seams and make your own engineered lumber.


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post #170 of 402 Old 04-25-2012, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

So I was all pumped tonight as I headed to Home Depot to get my primed FJ Pine... The nice 5/4" stuff like Big showed pictures of. I even showed the picture of the price and part number, but they didn't carry it.... Ever...

The closest that they had in primed FJ pine was 1x stuff (.75" as we all know)...

They did have some exterior "trim" in 5/4" x 4" x 12", it was "textured" on one face, but very pricey. Something like $29-$30 a piece. Yikes!

My screen wall is basically 14' wide but 7'9" tall. I know that the width of the room doesn't matter much. The screen will be 10' wide if that makes a difference.

What else could I use? Thanks!

You could check other local lumber yards to see if they carry the primed FJ pine that you want. When I was looking for 2" X 12" X 10' pine boards, HD didn't have any in stock and they suggested a local lumber yard that ended up having piles of it.

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post #171 of 402 Old 04-25-2012, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Really good 2x4s if anyone sells them in your area. Or you could laminate three layers of 1/2 inch plywood overlapping the seams and make your own engineered lumber.

I chuckled when I read this. Not because of your suggestion, but just because after finishing an 8 room, 1650 finished sqft basement (with staggered stud theater), there were so many 2x4s that I went through that started out nice and straight when I framed the walls, but twisted or turned over time. Maybe the 'L' shape would help them too.

Even so, tonight I did pick up some of the straightest 2x4 (8 footers) that I've seen in a while. The local store had the premium ones on sale for a penny more than their "construction grade" cheepos... Maybe I will have to mess with them since they were darn cheap, kiln dried, and so straight.

A call to a local lumberyard might be in order too, just to see...

Thanks guys!

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post #172 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 07:48 AM
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Just dawned on me that even though my 8 foot 2x4s are pretty darn straight, where the heck would I get longer straight ones for the horizontal part of the goal post? Crap.

I called a couple of lumber yards. One doesn't carry 5/4 anything (so odd), the other carries oak and poplar. Poplar being the lesser expensive, but at $2.68 linft. That comes to $144.72 plus tax for four 8 footers, and two 11 footers. Ouch! At that point, I could frame up something "less minimal" and be $120 bucks cheaper. Urg....

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post #173 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Strips of plywood laminated with overlapping joints should get the job done.

So you take a sheet of 1/2 void free plywood. Rip some 3 1/2 inch strips. Glue and tack them together in three layers with no seam lining up between layers. Then you have a nice and straight 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 piece. Repeat and you have two pieces for the header.

Or do less minimal.


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post #174 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 08:14 AM
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You overestimate my ripping abilities.

Even with the fence set to the right location, I can't cut 8' sheets of plywood very straight.

I guess I could see if HD would rip them for me. Not sure what they charge for that. Maybe Lowes. I know one of them doesn't charge at all.

So for the "seams" that you are talking about, I assume you mean for the longer than 8 foot header pieces since the uprights wouldn't need to go longer than an 8' rip?

EDIT: Any particular type of plywood that you've had good success with?

EDIT#2: Home Depot doesn't charge for cuts, but they max out at "10-15 cuts"... That is about half of a 4x8 sheet cut to 3.5" strips....

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post #175 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

So I was all pumped tonight as I headed to Home Depot to get my primed FJ Pine... The nice 5/4" stuff like Big showed pictures of. I even showed the picture of the price and part number, but they didn't carry it.... Ever...

The closest that they had in primed FJ pine was 1x stuff (.75" as we all know)...

They did have some exterior "trim" in 5/4" x 4" x 12", it was "textured" on one face, but very pricey. Something like $29-$30 a piece. Yikes!

My screen wall is basically 14' wide but 7'9" tall. I know that the width of the room doesn't matter much. The screen will be 10' wide if that makes a difference.

What else could I use? Thanks!

I used the 1x FJ pine - its flexible but I made them into an "L" shape for stability. It seems plenty strong.


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post #176 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 09:18 AM
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Thanks Monkey. Maybe I'll go 1x4 and put an extra "block" on the inner-corner for strength.

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post #177 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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You overestimate my ripping abilities.

Even with the fence set to the right location, I can't cut 8' sheets of plywood very straight.

I get them ripped in half at the store, you need either an out-feed table or roller stand to handle 8 ft material on the back of your saw.


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post #178 of 402 Old 04-26-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

I used the 1x FJ pine - its flexible but I made them into an "L" shape for stability. It seems plenty strong.

I also used the 1X material and believe it will be more than sufficient when using the L configuration.
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post #179 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 06:56 AM
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It's funny how many uses gluing together strips of plywood has!!!!

Seriously though, that pine wood we used is amazing. Strong and light and won't warp. Considering how little of it is needed to make your goalpost, no reason not to use it!


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post #180 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I get them ripped in half at the store, you need either an out-feed table or roller stand to handle 8 ft material on the back of your saw.

Or a circular saw and a clamp on rip fence - that's what I used for all my ripping needs, the fence cost $20.


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