Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

It's funny how many uses gluing together strips of plywood has!!!!

Sounds like there is another story or two to be told there...


Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Seriously though, that pine wood we used is amazing. Strong and light and won't warp. Considering how little of it is needed to make your goalpost, no reason not to use it!

I am going to pick up something tonight. I've got 3 family members (2 are very successful mechanical engineers, which may be good or bad) that are going to help me tomorrow for a couple of hours as we try to crank out the false wall and the front wall acoustical stuff. HOPEFULLY we will get the screen framed too.
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post #182 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 07:27 AM
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One other question, if I do end up going with the primed pine, are people painting their's black or leaving them just primed? I am seeing both white and black...
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post #183 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 07:39 AM
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I painted mine just to be safe, as I was unsure exactly where my frame would fall. Its cheap insurance and only takes half an hour to paint it all.
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post #184 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Sounds like there is another story or two to be told there...

Well that's what we used for all of our frames. Two 1/2" plywood sheets glued together, which made a LOT of strips of 1/2" plywood.

As far as the primed plywood, it's safe to say that anything that goes behind fabric should be painted black. So yes!

I refused to paint all of my walls completely black, I primed them gray and just painted small areas black where the frames and columns met. All other wood that went below fabric was painted black though. (Frames, Goalpost, Soffit area)
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post #185 of 402 Old 04-27-2012, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

I painted mine just to be safe, as I was unsure exactly where my frame would fall. Its cheap insurance and only takes half an hour to paint it all.

I painted my front screewall frame black to eliminate the possibility of the projector light shining through. It was easy insurance. However, I did not paint any of my fabric frames and there is no wood showing. Granted they are covered with Anchorage GOM, which is not as porous as some of the other fabrics.

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post #186 of 402 Old 04-28-2012, 10:30 AM
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If you're looking for some straight boards you might want to check this out:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...8&postcount=53
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post #187 of 402 Old 11-03-2012, 10:24 AM
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Ok, I know this thread has been dormant for a while but I have a question as I am about to begin building my false screen wall.

So I love this "goal post" idea for hanging the screen (thanks Big), and my HD does in fact carry the primed FJ Pine stock, but I wonder: Since the uprights go from ceiling to floor and the header and footer is screwed to the upright L posts, how do you fit the column in place? You can't just tip it up as it will scratch the ceiling and if it is the exact height from the stage floor to ceiling even lifting it up already upright and "sliding" it in place will scratch (and probably gouge) the ceiling -- won't it?

Also, the two panels on the left and right of the screen: How do they stay in place simply due to "friction"? They contact the goal post (on either the left or right side) and the floor, but nothing on the 3 non-goal-post sides of those frames will keep the frame from tilting inwards (or outwards) and falling out will it?

Thanks for you input! I want to start this ASAP but I don't like starting a step I dont know how to finish!
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post #188 of 402 Old 11-03-2012, 03:29 PM
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Answer to Question #2)

I screwed a few scrap pieces of 2x4 or FJP to the wall for the panels to sit against.
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post #189 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 06:10 AM
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I did the same thing as ADDUpstate for the side panels. Just lined it up with the "goal post" uprights.

As for the friction thing, there are a couple of ways that it could be done...

1) Build the upright posts, line up the bottom, tap the top into place from BEHIND THE FUTURE WALL TOWARDS THE VIEWING AREA. Any damage to the ceiling will be behind the uprights. This was metioned somewhere in this thread, but could easily be missed.

2) Build the uprights, line up the top, and tap the bottoms into place. If this is on an unfinished floor or stage, then no damage. If built right, it will hammer in place and still be snug enough to screw into the floor and ceiling.

3) Carpet your room first, then when you put the uprights in, you have a little cushion (literally and figuratively) to get the uprights in place. This is what I did. We tried to make the room so that it could be used as something else later on if/when we ever sell the house, so I carpeted the whole floor, and then put the seating riser in place and had that carpetted separately. I didn't build a stage, although I have thought about a small faux stage, but honestly I like the look now. If I didn't have a false wall, I would want a stage for sure. With the false wall, I like the solid, clean, one surface plane wall. Anyway, this worked great. I actually lined up the bottom, had someone else push down on the post (into the carpet/pad) as I lined up the top. Then I made my minor adjustments, screwed in the top, and secured the bottom. Worked like a charm and I didn't scratch the (painted) ceiling.
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post #190 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 09:50 AM
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Timely bump on this thread. I'm about to build my screen wall and seeing this has jogged my memory and given me some ideas! Thanks!
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post #191 of 402 Old 11-19-2012, 02:32 PM
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Big.. Thank you so much for this thread... It's is exactly what I am going to do in my build. Thank you for explaining it in so much detail.
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post #192 of 402 Old 11-19-2012, 06:01 PM
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Yes. Definitely!

I almost went the route of building a normal stud wall and stapling fabric to it! Thank god I found this thread the day before I started!!!

Here is a shot of my new screen wall just before I painted it black:


It seems to have turned out pretty good - but I havent mounted the screen yet.
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post #193 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 04:55 AM
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Got my own variant of a minimalist wall up. Since I wasn't sure how far out from the wall I wanted my final screen. And I wasn't sure where I would land studs and channel on the side walls, I went back to my screen wall. I just screwed blocks into the screen wall, some 16" legs off those out into the room, then stood 2x4's up and screwed them to the legs. My screen hangs from those 2 2x4's. It also gave me a nice place to make a shelf for my center channel. smile.gif

i-HLk22KB-L.jpg

Without the frame hanging on it.

i-L3p9Dwp-L.jpg

From behind the frame, hopefully this clears up the verbiage above.

i-HtQVXzc-L.jpg

Stuck some eye bolts in the "goal posts" and a screw in the under side of the screen frame to hang it.

i-Qw6nwzb-L.jpg

And my finished spandex screen hanging on it. The screen needs a bit of work, and the whole screen needs blackout panels around it. But I'm ready to throw a picture at it tonight!

i-sGTdKcJ-L.jpg
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post #194 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 05:52 AM
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Looks fine. As long as it can take the weight of the screen and none of the speakers are blocked it works. Its pretty much the same design - just a different configuration.
I do like that you can change the width of your screen without really adjusting the posts.
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post #195 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 06:35 AM
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That was my purpose in this design. Once I go to in-wall speakers, if I choose to, I can easily move my screen back closer to the wall. Or if I get bigger floor standing speakers, I can move it out. The upright is carrying the load and the legs are just stabilizing the uprights. You can't go swinging from it or pushing on it, but since 80% of the wall is spandex, you better not be doing that anyway! I'm very happy with it.
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post #196 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 09:28 AM
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Was going to follow Big's advice and utilize the microvelvet from Hancock... but it is listed as Discontinued....
Micro Black Velvet
Item# 128157
•Contents:100% Polyester
•Width:44"
•Care Method:Dry clean only.
•Bolt Size Average: 15 Yds.

Availability:
Discontinued

Does anyone have any suggestions for a substitute that will match a frame on a Seymour AV framed XD Screen?
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post #197 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 10:56 AM
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You can get the same Fidelio Velvet used on the frame here, but it's pricey at $40/yd. I'm waiting for a sample of the SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet to see how closely it matches the Seymour frame. At $7.75/yd, it's a bargain.
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post #198 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

You can get the same Fidelio Velvet used on the frame here, but it's pricey at $40/yd. I'm waiting for a sample of the SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet to see how closely it matches the Seymour frame. At $7.75/yd, it's a bargain.

Yeah Space... Please let me know what you think... $7.75/yd IS a bargain.. Please report back when you get it.
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post #199 of 402 Old 11-20-2012, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

You can get the same Fidelio Velvet used on the frame here, but it's pricey at $40/yd. I'm waiting for a sample of the SyFabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet to see how closely it matches the Seymour frame. At $7.75/yd, it's a bargain.

I have a sample and it matches my Carada frame nicely, but like Spaceman, I will be upgrading to a seymour, so i as well will be interested to see.

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post #200 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 10:29 AM
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Received the swatch of Black Plush Triple Velvet from SyFabrics. Here are a few shots against Seymour's Fidelio-wrapped frame.

IMG_1173.jpg

IMG_1172.jpg

It's dark enough for me.
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post #201 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 03:14 PM
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SWEET!!! My order is sent!

How many yards are you going to order?

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post #202 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 04:08 PM
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Does this breathe good? If my subwoofer is venting near it can the air pass through?
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post #203 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

SWEET!!! My order is sent!
How many yards are you going to order?

I need a little more than 5, but am going to order 7 to cover future repairs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vikgrao View Post

Does this breathe good? If my subwoofer is venting near it can the air pass through?

It's fairly light weight, but I can barely blow air through it.
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post #204 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 07:04 PM
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post #205 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 08:02 PM
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I may have messed up. I have a 1 foot riser in the back of my room.

I originally was going to position the screen 2'5" from the top of the ceiling, which is 9 feet tall. I had the wall built but now it looks too low. I may have to raise my crossbar.

What's the formula for making sure the back row has a clear view?

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post #206 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 08:35 PM
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Here's a link to the riser height calculator. Since you already have a known riser height, you can use it to determine the screen mounting height that works with a 12" riser. Link
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post #207 of 402 Old 11-25-2012, 08:43 PM
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Thanks!!!

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post #208 of 402 Old 11-26-2012, 12:42 PM
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Space... What do you think the acoustic qualities of the fabric are? I plan on having speakers behind panels on my wall... do you think this would be good to use?
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post #209 of 402 Old 11-26-2012, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Spaceman said he could barely blow through it, I doubt the acoustic transparency is sufficient for covering speakers.
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post #210 of 402 Old 11-26-2012, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AT1AW View Post

Space... What do you think the acoustic qualities of the fabric are? I plan on having speakers behind panels on my wall... do you think this would be good to use?

I'm assuming since we are talking about black velvet, you are referring to panels on your screen wall and not panels covering side or rear surrounds. Is that correct?

Either way, I don't think you would be happy with the result....sort of like wrapping your speakers in a blanket.wink.gif I think black GOM FR701 is the fallback for screen walls if your front speakers sit directly behind fabric. You might also look at Acoustex Fabrics. They have a black in their Designer Series that might work. I used both FR701 and Acoustex fabrics on my side walls and based on unofficial blow tests, I would say that the Acoustex fabric might be a little more transparent than the FR701. Haven't seen any numbers to prove it. Just an observation.
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