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post #181 of 2687 Old 07-08-2007, 06:06 PM
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Mr. Tim,
Just wanted to let you know, that you rock! I assume you do this for a living, right? Anyway, it is nice to have your know-how on the forum.

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post #182 of 2687 Old 07-08-2007, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post


Oh man, you're lucky!!! My previous house I had to do that to put drain tile in because of the water problems I was having and those little electric jack hammers didn't work at all for me. It only chipped the surface!!!!

The concrete was 7" thick!!!

I had to rent a huge air hammer with a industrial size compressor that was on a trailer that you pull behind a truck. I think that jack hammer was 70 pounds! We had 3 people taking turns using it because it wore you out!!

I think I hauled 50-60 5 gallon buckets of concrete out of that basement!!!

Like I said, you were lucky!!
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post #183 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd View Post

Mr. Tim,
Just wanted to let you know, that you rock! I assume you do this for a living, right? Anyway, it is nice to have your know-how on the forum.

Thanks

I used to do contracting.. Every once in a while I would have to plumb something in. Now I'm certified as an inspector. Plumbing isn't part of my responsibilities so I'm kind of rusty on it.. been a while since I did the training.

Good luck,
Tim
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post #184 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 05:12 AM
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Michael,

You been a busy bee this weekend. This plumbing stuff sure can be rocket science at times. Bet you glad Mr. Tim is on hand. When you get to Electrical and HVAC things should be a little simpler as air and electrons don't mind going upwards

Cheers,
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post #185 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

For a vent connection, #1 is fine. I don't understand what the tee+vent up that are 2 stud cavities to the right of the wet sink are for? Are you venting another fixture further up the line?

You are correct. There is a utlity sink further up the line. It's out of range for the bathroom sink's vent to count.


Quote:


When you are doing a dry vent you can use the short els and tees (I see you found the long-turn elbows ).

Hehehe. Yep. I apparently had them all along in the 2" variety. Like I mentioned before, I bought a few spare parts...

Quote:


As far as the wet sink connection there is a rule that the weir of the trap cannot be above the inlet. The vent takeoff cannot be below the weir of the trap. I believe the current layout violates both these rules. The whole trap/weir/vent thing is a little confusing to me, so I always do it the same way, because I know it works

Hmmm. Good diagram. I can do that. It actually simplifies things. I'll need to do the same thing for the utility sink. Since that that is at the end of that pipe run I'll have to move the vent closer to the utility sink or else the slope of the drain pipe will cause the vent to be below the trap weir.


johnny15 - I guess it could be worse - although my body is telling me that it was bad enough. The jackhammer phase turned out to be the easy part. Once the intial hole was in, chipping and enlarging was pretty straight forward. It was the digging by hand that was a major pain. That pile in the photo basically doubled by the time I made room for all of the pipe runs and necessary wiggle room.

Mark - It's really nice to finally be working, even if this stuff takes forever to get right. Right now I'm hoping to take a day off this week to finish the plumbing and then call for a partial inspection next week so that I can close the floor. And yes, Mr. Tim will get naming rights for the WC by the time this part is done.

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post #186 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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After discussing some things with Bryan, the new plan is to incorporate a dedicated IB chamber into the design. This will shrink the space behind the screen to roughly 2 1/2 feet. Behind the room wall I will build another isolated space which will serve as a giant sub enclosure. Hopefully I'll get all of the "wow-factor" of an IB set-up without some of the house shaking side-effect and canceling the sound isolation.

I need to do a bunch more research on this issue and will have to fine tune the chamber's final size accordingly, but here is a basic floor plan.


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post #187 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frumundacheese View Post

I think I read somewhere there is some kind of venting valve that can be used as an alternative to conventional venting. If memory serves me it is called an Air Admittance Valve (AAV). I'm not sure about the county code on it.

Right, this is a studor valve (www.studor.com). They run around $20 at your big box hardware stores. I have on in my basement bathroom, as well as for venting in our basement bar and kitchen island. As long as you can access them and leave air around them, that's fine. In my case, I have one in a normal 2x4 stud-wall and I will leave an a/c return-air register over the opening for access and air flow.

-Ryan
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post #188 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 01:04 PM
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I am sure Bryan addressed this, but I assume you've thought through having an IB sub behind the screenwall, and any rippling on the screen?
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post #189 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Dave - yep. It's been discussed as a potential issue. I'm hoping how the screen wall is built and the location of the drivers (below screen level) will help mitigate the issue. Anyway, I don't know enough about how to build the sub to offer anything meaningful, except to say that it part of the master plan. Hopefully the learning curve to build one is less than the year it took before I was ready to start building the room. Cult of the IB and the AVS DIY speaker forum have been a good start. In all likelihood I'll need to engage an expert to help with the final design.

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post #190 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 02:19 PM
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Cathan I just wanted to emphasize in my drawing it says "sanitary tee". YOu have to use a tee, not a wye.

Got to thinking about how I have been telling you that things have to be wyes.

If you used a wye+45 the weir of the trap would be above the inlet. The sanitary tee keeps the weir below the inlet, which is what you want.

Tim
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post #191 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Right. Tee not wye, except after C.

Silly plumbing grammar rules.

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post #192 of 2687 Old 07-09-2007, 08:05 PM
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Nice work on the theater!

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post #193 of 2687 Old 07-10-2007, 01:54 PM
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Cathan, I like what I am seeing so far. I will be in the same slow boat as you when I start. Wait till I can afford the next step before jumping in. Plus, I need to wait another year to start to make sure I have no basement issues with my concrete settling. That and all my current cash is going towards doing a backyard on the new house...

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post #194 of 2687 Old 07-10-2007, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Bahhh. Aren't backyards under 80' of snow most of the year in Colorado?

Funny you should mention it, our patio and garden is what delayed my start by 6 months as well. The only thing that may slow things down now is that at some point I need to redo our masterbath. But I'm sure I can put that off for another 3/4 of a year.

Anyway, the day you break ground, if you listen hard enough, you may hear the sound of applause and cheer coming across the eastern plain.

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post #195 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 07:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm taking the day off to play in the basement.

Final check before I glue every thing together.






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post #196 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:00 AM
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Michael,

Is that T on the vent the right way? Not sure if it maters.

I notice the rough-in for the copper is 1/2", how many appliances are going to tap into this? My inspector would only allow 2. if you have more than 2 you may need to re-run the main feed in 3/4"

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post #197 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:15 AM
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In the third photo (hookup for the utility sink, I think)-- I wouldn't use a sanitary tee on it's back like that. I think what you have would pass inspection, however I recommend the following:

Replace the tee with a wye+45, put a threaded cleanout on the wye where you have the trap connected (cleanouts are required, I don't know if disconnecting the trap the way you have it would be an acceptable "cleanout").

Stub up out of the top of the wye, connect a sanitary tee, and connect the trap to that. Hopefully you have enough clearance under the basin to add the fitting.

I don't see a problem with the vent piping.

Good luck,
Tim
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post #198 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Michael,

I notice the rough-in for the copper is 1/2", how many appliances are going to tap into this? My inspector would only allow 2. if you have more than 2 you may need to re-run the main feed in 3/4"

Let's see - washer, utility sink, bathroom sink. I was planning on tapping into a 1/2 inch pipe. I guess it wouldn't be difficult for me to bring 3/4 some where nearby and use 1/2 for the washer and utility sink and the another 1/2 for the bath and toilet.

Off to HD then. I don't have any 3/4 copper stuff.

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post #199 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:22 AM
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Alternatively, replace the street 45 between the tee and the trap with a wye, tick a cleanout in the end of the wye.

I still prefer the my first idea. But, I think the only real problem is a lack of cleanout.

Tim
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post #200 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

In the third photo (hookup for the utility sink, I think)-- I wouldn't use a sanitary tee on it's back like that. I think what you have would pass inspection, however I recommend the following:

Replace the tee with a wye+45, put a threaded cleanout on the wye where you have the trap connected (cleanouts are required, I don't know if disconnecting the trap the way you have it would be an acceptable "cleanout").

Stub up out of the top of the wye, connect a sanitary tee, and connect the trap to that. Hopefully you have enough clearance under the basin to add the fitting.

I don't see a problem with the vent piping.

Good luck,
Tim

Do you mean this photo?

That's for the wet bar. The p-trap (which I need to still buy) would connect to the tee. The proposed tubing is sitting up right in front of the vertical stack and vent I would need to cut into.

If you mean this photo then I'm not sure what you mean.

I'm taking the 2" pipe down to 1.5" right before the p trap. The p trap screws off.

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post #201 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 08:52 AM
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I was referring to the last photo where the p-trap screws right off.

I wasn't sure if you could use a 1-1/2" opening as a cleanout for a 2" pipe. I just looked it up and that is acceptable (I thought it might need to be a full 2").

So, all is well.

Tim
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post #202 of 2687 Old 07-11-2007, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Excellent! Thanks again.

Now off to HD for some 3/4 copper goodies and to return a few pvp fittings.

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post #203 of 2687 Old 07-16-2007, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so how annoying is it to have returned a bunch of stuff only to need some of those things a short while later!?! Last week I returned a good $160 worth of pvc fittings only to screw up gluing the vent turns together requiring me to redo it. So another two HD runs later just to rebuy the parts and I'm finally done with the waste and venting.

The copper lines are still being worked on. I decided to put in a on/off value right where I'm tieing into the the hot and cold water for the bath and bar sink. That way if I have any leaks I don't have to shut down the entire house's water and just the new lines.

After that I'll need to get the plumbing inspected (if only the toilet part) so that I can close up the hole in the slab and be able to continue framing. I'll shoot for an inspection for this Wednesday.

Speaking of framing, just how much space do I need to leave next to the HVAC return stack? I'd like to build the wall so that the column is in the wall, but that would put me right next to the vents. Do I need to keep 6" around this? The 2x6 in this photo is where I want to run the wall.

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post #204 of 2687 Old 07-16-2007, 09:36 AM
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Looking good Cathan.

I just wanted to say that I've read the entire thread and I am glad you did not move those posts and beams... I have seen it done before and the end result seemed to be much more work than the end result was worth. I still don't understand why builders cut corners and places those things wherever they see fit without thinking "perhaps somone want to use the basement for something other than cold storage".

One suggestion (I am not too sure how far you are with your build or if you can make any changes now), would be to look into a sliding pocket door for your bathroom. Space looks like it's at a premuim for that bathroom, so a sliding pocket door might be just your ticket to give you some more room.

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post #205 of 2687 Old 07-16-2007, 10:08 AM
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The only rule that would apply to the return plenum is that it be serviceable. If you have filters, humidifier etc you must be able to service them. Otherwise you can put the wall wherever you want.

I wouldn;t want the duct touching anything as it might introduce noise.

Lookin good,
Tim
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post #206 of 2687 Old 07-16-2007, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Ockie - Thanks. It's nice to make a little bit of progress. The pocket door idea is a good one. I'll check with the wife if she cares. That being said, I think a normal 24" door should work fine. I made the 1/2 bath the same size as the 1/2 bath we have on the main level.

Tim - Perfect. That's what I thought, but just wanted to make sure. I think I'll use 2x4 for that part of the wall to keep it away from the duct. I have a I-beam that runs parrallel with the wall that will be directly above the wall header. I need to install the wall so that the finished side of the wall has the beam cleanly inside the wall once the drywall is installed.

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post #207 of 2687 Old 07-17-2007, 10:03 AM
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Hey Michael, just back from vacation and checked in on your thread. Looks like you're making some good progress! Keep the pics coming!

Craig

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post #208 of 2687 Old 07-17-2007, 11:01 AM
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Michael - next time you are at home depot - look at the plumbing fittings named SharkBite.

Little expensive but man they work like a champ. Especially if you need to go from copper to pvc with no soldering and quick + easy.

I was skeptical but now I am a huge fan. I can retire my gas torch, flux and solder forever now. Even if you choose not to use them for the bathroom - it is good to know that they exist as I think they are fairly new.

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post #209 of 2687 Old 07-17-2007, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Welcome home, Craig.

Progress, well yes. Good, that remains to be determined by the plumbing inspector tomorrow.

Speaking of progress it's disheartening when you work in the basement the entire day and when the wife asks you what you got done you can only show her a couple of pieces of copper that are now stuck together.

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post #210 of 2687 Old 07-17-2007, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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jikkjack - I've seen those, but wasn't sure what they could be used for, code, ect. I may ask the inspector about them tomorrow. If they are easy to work with and I have leaks that need fixing (my plan is to make the connections to the main water lines tomorrow and test my work) I may give them a shot.

edit: Just as a side note, can I bitch how much I hate my local HD. It took an hour to searching to turn up one single 3/4" 90 degree street fitting. I need two more. How can they be out of this sort of thing for the past few weeks now!?!

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