Meyer Home Theater construction - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 567 Old 06-02-2009, 04:14 PM
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All your panels and projector enclosure turned out great. Good job.
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post #542 of 567 Old 12-31-2009, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Rack:



All the wires hanging out of the front of the rack head to the projector. Since the proj isn't in its final position yet I haven't taken the wires through the walls.

Paul,

Did you ever get around to fixing up the rack wiring? In particular, I'm curious about what you did about the IR for the cable box.

Getting a rack and installing it in the cubby is one of the things still on my TODO list and the dang Time Warner box is the only equipment I've got that doesn't have a rear IR port on it. Well, it looks like it does but after long calls with TW, I've had no luck getting any real info about whether it works or not.

Did you end up just taping the IR repeater to the front or did you figure out a better solution?

Thanks,
Jay
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post #543 of 567 Old 01-11-2010, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolette View Post

Paul,

Did you ever get around to fixing up the rack wiring? In particular, I'm curious about what you did about the IR for the cable box.

Getting a rack and installing it in the cubby is one of the things still on my TODO list and the dang Time Warner box is the only equipment I've got that doesn't have a rear IR port on it. Well, it looks like it does but after long calls with TW, I've had no luck getting any real info about whether it works or not.

Did you end up just taping the IR repeater to the front or did you figure out a better solution?

Thanks,
Jay

I've fixed up the wiring (mostly). At least no wires are dangling out the front. What's coming out the front in the picture above is the component and HDMI for the projector. I hadn't routed it through the ceiling at the point.

Since then, I ran a conduit through the wall from the ceiling above the projector and put the video connections and an IR flasher for the back of the RS20. Kudos to JVC for putting an IR receiver on the back (although they likely did it for coffee table installs). So, the front of the rack looks fine.

I also cleaned up the wiring on the back of the rack, with short patch cables between components and all of the connections off of the rack bundled together into a long bundle that droops to the floor. The idea is that eventually, this will allow me to pull out/swivel the rack without disconnecting anything. However, I think there were a couple of cables that were too short and I haven't gotten around to fixing them yet. Since I can get behind the rack relatively easily, I haven't gotten around to extending those cables.

As for the cable box, I solved that problem by getting rid of it. I no longer have cable! TivoHD for over the air HD and netflix streaming, and the PS3 for games/bluray/dvd.

Before I got rid of it, yes, I had an IR flasher running under it taped to the front. I have the same thing for my TIVO.

Paul Meyer
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post #544 of 567 Old 01-13-2010, 07:50 AM
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Ive been reading all your threads about your diy rack ... have you had any troubles with it at all? I am looking to build a similar rack, actually two of them spaced about 8" apart and housed under a piece of counter top. I have roughly 24" of depth to work with and will be constructing the rack 20" deep. I am planning on the 24" slide but I am curious if that will allow the rack to rotate when its fully extended. The 24" slide only leaves me ~4" of clearance from the front of the wall when its slid out on which I have to rotate and clear the front wall.

My next question is how to all the wires fall when the rack is slid out and rotated. Tentatively I will have an 7.2 banana plug wall plate on the back wall where the rack slides in, im just curious if the speaker wire all fits in the small gap when its out and rotated.

If you have any pictures of this I would much appreciate it.

Thanks!
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post #545 of 567 Old 01-13-2010, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdvachal View Post

Ive been reading all your threads about your diy rack ... have you had any troubles with it at all? I am looking to build a similar rack, actually two of them spaced about 8" apart and housed under a piece of counter top. I have roughly 24" of depth to work with and will be constructing the rack 20" deep. I am planning on the 24" slide but I am curious if that will allow the rack to rotate when its fully extended. The 24" slide only leaves me ~4" of clearance from the front of the wall when its slid out on which I have to rotate and clear the front wall.

My next question is how to all the wires fall when the rack is slid out and rotated. Tentatively I will have an 7.2 banana plug wall plate on the back wall where the rack slides in, im just curious if the speaker wire all fits in the small gap when its out and rotated.

If you have any pictures of this I would much appreciate it.

Thanks!

I'll take some pictures if I get a chance, but it may be a few days.

Two comments:
1) on the length of the slides and the turning radius, I would strongly suggest you 'mock it up' and try it. Just cut a piece of cardboard the size of the base (or widest point) of your rack. Poke a hole where you expect the center of rotation to be. Try it in your actual hole: slide it out 24" and see if it will rotate clearly there. Make sure there is enough spare room so that the wires don't snag on the corner of the cabinet or wall.

In general, going with longer slides is generally a good thing.

2) On how much space you need in the back:
I've got a lot of wire coming off the back of the rack. Most of it is bulky (cl2 rated speaker wire, rg6 coax for cable/antenna), and doesn't bend well. The round bundle of it all is even stiffer. My wires collect at the back right of the rack, heading up, and then bend over the top back bar of the rack and head down to the floor again. I would think 4" would be tight for my bundle. Rather than bundling the wires, they could be spread out 'flat' across the back of the rack, which might help, but could make turning the rack tougher.

One thing to be aware of, though. The equipment will likely not all be 20" deep. If you put shallower equipment at the top, you could let the cable bundle hang a few inches into the rack, rather than right at the back. That would give you more room.

If that wasn't clear, let me know.

By the way, in general my rack is great. It's sturdy, slides and rotates well. No tippiness, etc. (although I don't have massive amps or anything on the rack, just normal sources and a receiver mounted relatively low).

Paul Meyer
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post #546 of 567 Old 02-26-2010, 10:45 AM
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Hi Paul. Quick question: I missed why you used polypropeline line across the top of the screen, and 1/4" shock cord around the sides. Was there a strength problem?

(I plan to mimic the design).
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post #547 of 567 Old 02-26-2010, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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No, there was no strength problem. I got the idea from whoever I stole the original trampoline plan from.

The reason I used 'rope' on the top was simply because it made it easier to position the screen in the right place. If you have stretchy stuff on all four sides, the screen may tilt or shift up or down depending on the relative tension of the shock cord above/below. You can make it work, but it'll be more tensioning work.

If you use rope on the top, you can simply 'hang' the screen in about the position you want it, and adjust the rope quickly to make it flat and at the right height. You then use the shock cord on the bottom/sides to pull it flat and tight.

Good luck. I've had this screen up for a year now and had no issues with it at all.

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post #548 of 567 Old 02-26-2010, 06:28 PM
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Thanks Paul.

I have some spare heavy duty braided wire (originally used for stretching canvas for a shade sail) and a turnbuckle to tighten it up. If I used a single loop all of the way around the frame rather than the rope/cord do you think that would work? Or is there some added benefit to using a more flexible cord that I can't think of?
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post #549 of 567 Old 02-27-2010, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I suspect that it might work just fine. It would just be a bit more finicky in the tensioning department.

If you use shock cord, you can just run it through the clips, and pull it over all but one of the hooks. Then tie a knot at the end where you think it will need to be to keep it tight. Then snap the shock cord over the last hook. Redo the last two until you get tension.

The shock cord, being stretchy, is very forgiving, and will give good tension all around even if you have slightly overtightened or undertightened it.

With the wire, I'd be concerned about two things. First, the clips are not all that strong. They are cheap plastic, and if you overtighten, they'll break or pop off the screen edge. With the wire, with no flex, it might be easy to overtighten.

The other concern: even tensioning along the edge requires the cord to run freely through the hooks and the clips. On an awning (with grommets, and quite strong), you can crank down the wire and it will slide. Here, however, you can't put much tension without popping the clips. I'd be concerned that the wire will 'kink' over time where it is bent and won't run freely.

You have the wire and can get a better feel for if any of the above is true. I'd spend the money on the shock cord. McMaster-Carr has it (part #8858T5), 100 ft of 1/4" shock cord, $20.

Good luck either way.

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post #550 of 567 Old 04-03-2011, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to finish my home theater!

I stopped when my Theater was fully usable and not embarrassing to show to guests.
- all walls/ceiling/floor doubled up with green glue
- Carpet/riser/stage in
- gorgeous SMX screen and black surround, speakers and 703 treatment behind screen
- dark red walls, black ceiling, gold crown molding
- new lights, riser lights, rope lights in ceiling tray
- grafik eye and front IR receiver controlling it all through a Harmony
- pull out/swivel rack, black GOM panels hiding rack space.
- RS20 in a black GOM wrapped box above the chairs on the back wall
- 8 powered berklines

Works perfectly, 2+ years now.

But, not quite done:

- doors still Home Depot white inside and out with no handles/hardware!
- no side/back wall treatments (gpowers style 28x20" panels planned)
- never finished columns: side/back speakers exposed on ugly stands
- Bass trap over door an empty hole (thankfully not noticeable)

--------------------------

Due to some school changes for my kids, it looks like I might be moving in the next 2-3 years. That means putting the house on the market (maybe next spring?). The goal for the home theater:

- Be a potentially significant draw for HT enthusiasts.
- Leave it as a turnkey solution (leave projector/chairs/remote/all equipment if they want it) for owners that would love to use it, but wouldn't know where to start. (I'll want new stuff anyway if I build again)
- Let buyers who don't want it see it as 'easy' to rip out and turn into a nursery or whatever.

But most of all:
- Finish it to the point I can be proud to walk away from it.

So time to finish it up. First up: bass trap over the door, then the columns.

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post #551 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 07:42 AM - Thread Starter
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My last bass trap is done!

The hole that's been hanging out for the last two years. Nobody ever notices it as it is very dark in the entry and nobody ever looks up.



plywood frame with 1" 703 spanning it:



shredded blue jean insulation piled up and strapped down:



Installed:



I've built a black GOM covered frame and installed it as well. I'll get a pic later.

It's DONE! This silly bass trap has been hanging over my head (literally) for two years.

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post #552 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 05:43 PM
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Everything looks great!

That was the first time I had ever seen a screen tensioned like that. Is it holding up well? Would you do it again that way?
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post #553 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermatch View Post
Everything looks great!

That was the first time I had ever seen a screen tensioned like that. Is it holding up well? Would you do it again that way?
I borrowed the idea from an earlier thread. It's holding up great. I'd do it that way in a second. The screen has just worked.

I may get my chance to try it again. I now have a signed contract on a new house in Rollingwood, TX (a bedroom community really close in to Austin). I've got about 9 months to finish my current HT as much as it's going to get done.

By the way, I recognize I'm not going to get more money for finishing it. Just pride.

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post #554 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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By the way, what are people using these days for DIY acoustically transparent screens? Is SMX back on the market for DIY, or are there good alternatives?

I'm thinking of selling my house with my HT as a turnkey solution (chairs, projector, screen, amp, blu-ray player, speakers). If they don't want it I'll take it, but I have this idea that some folks will be attracted to the house knowing they can walk in, hit the button on the Harmony, slide in a blu-ray, and be watching a movie in their own private theater. Also, that way I can get a new projector (-:

Or they won't care and will try to knock 10k off the price, in which case I'm keeping my berklines and my SMX!

Paul

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post #555 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 07:49 PM
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Im always in lack of words when I come into threads like this and see the owner is selling before the room even gets done or just done..I dont get it?? I have a crap house and no money compared to you people..BUT when I finally get my room how I want it..IM NEVER selling..EVER..It will be the only house I will ever have. I built it, its small,and mine in 15 years..
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post #556 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mikieson View Post

Im always in lack of words when I come into threads like this and see the owner is selling before the room even gets done or just done..I dont get it?? I have a crap house and no money compared to you people..BUT when I finally get my room how I want it..IM NEVER selling..EVER..It will be the only house I will ever have. I built it, its small,and mine in 15 years..

Hmmm, that requires no answer or a novel. I can give you a six word summary, though:

My wife never liked this house.

When we moved to Austin for my new job 6 years ago, we had three days to pick the best house we could afford that was on the market that weekend. We got this house in Bee Cave (20 minutes from Austin). It works, but it is *too big* (4800 sq ft, 2/3 acre). It echoes. 19 foot ceilings! Too much to clean, too much to mow. But, after a couple of years she realized she didn't want to move, and the kids were settled in their schools, etc. When she settled in, I was granted permission to rip out walls and put in my HT. Took me two years, finished two years ago.

Fast foward to now: school situation has changed, and we are actually driving the kids into Austin for school. No kid reason to stay here (not a great kid neighborhood). Moving to Rollingwood (smaller house, closer to everything, denser neighborhood, more kids, park, pool) makes sense. Found the perfect fixer upper house on the perfect lot 100 ft from the park/pool. I'll admit, money isn't a primary issue (the new house is less expensive than our current one, maybe the same after we remodel it)

Also, critical point about me: I had an absolute *blast* building the home theater described in this thread. As much as I enjoy watching movies, I had even more fun building it. But it's done now (well, almost). Now I get to start all over again!

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post #557 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Also, critical point about me: I had an absolute *blast* building the home theater described in this thread. As much as I enjoy watching movies, I had even more fun building it. But it's done now (well, almost). Now I get to start all over again!

I am sure many here understand what you are saying. Congrats and good luck!

Location: Beaverton, Oregon
My Dedicated Home Theater Room
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post #558 of 567 Old 04-11-2011, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Hmmm, that requires no answer or a novel. I can give you a six word summary, though:

My wife never liked this house.

When we moved to Austin for my new job 6 years ago, we had three days to pick the best house we could afford that was on the market that weekend. We got this house in Bee Cave (20 minutes from Austin). It works, but it is *too big* (4800 sq ft, 2/3 acre). It echoes. 19 foot ceilings! Too much to clean, too much to mow. But, after a couple of years she realized she didn't want to move, and the kids were settled in their schools, etc. When she settled in, I was granted permission to rip out walls and put in my HT. Took me two years, finished two years ago.

Fast foward to now: school situation has changed, and we are actually driving the kids into Austin for school. No kid reason to stay here (not a great kid neighborhood). Moving to Rollingwood (smaller house, closer to everything, denser neighborhood, more kids, park, pool) makes sense. Found the perfect fixer upper house on the perfect lot 100 ft from the park/pool. I'll admit, money isn't a primary issue (the new house is less expensive than our current one, maybe the same after we remodel it)

Also, critical point about me: I had an absolute *blast* building the home theater described in this thread. As much as I enjoy watching movies, I had even more fun building it. But it's done now (well, almost). Now I get to start all over again!

I get ya bud..Im not dissing on you..Just kind of freaks me out..AND I have to agree..I love getting done with projects like these..BUT building them and designing them are more fun sometimes..
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post #559 of 567 Old 04-12-2011, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

By the way, what are people using these days for DIY acoustically transparent screens? Is SMX back on the market for DIY, or are there good alternatives?

I'm thinking of selling my house with my HT as a turnkey solution (chairs, projector, screen, amp, blu-ray player, speakers). If they don't want it I'll take it, but I have this idea that some folks will be attracted to the house knowing they can walk in, hit the button on the Harmony, slide in a blu-ray, and be watching a movie in their own private theater. Also, that way I can get a new projector (-:

Or they won't care and will try to knock 10k off the price, in which case I'm keeping my berklines and my SMX!

Paul


I think SeymourAV is the current go-to for DIY AT screen material.

http://seymourav.com/store.asp
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post #560 of 567 Old 04-12-2011, 07:11 AM
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Great to see this thread back from the dead Paul! Good luck!

I don't want FOP, *********! I'm a Dapper Dan man!
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post #561 of 567 Old 04-12-2011, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is my covered bass trap:



Still need to put some black tape over the screw heads.

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post #562 of 567 Old 04-12-2011, 07:34 AM
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Nice job pmeyer, they sell these little screw caps at HD or Lowe's which snap over themselves once you put the screw over it.

Good luck with the new home and the next build.

+1 on the Seymour for DIY material. Recently saw a sample, nice stuff!
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post #563 of 567 Old 04-24-2011, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Now that the bass trap is done, I'm getting serious about the columns and the wall panels (gpower's style, just like over the rack).

First up: columns. I've already got the side wall all planned out: 28"x20" panels with 2" wide ply/masonite borders so that the interior dimensions are 24"x16" (so I can get 3 from each 2x4' piece of 703). That worked out to leave 16" wide pillars. Perfect. My side/rear speakers right now are Paradigm mini-monitors, ~11" deep, plus a couple inches for air behind. 13"x16" columns. No problem.

Except for two things:

1) 13" extends a bit further into the entry aisle than I really like, but I could live with it.
2) I checked my GOM purchase planning. The black GOM is 70" wide, and I planned on getting two columns from that width. 35"/column. A 16"+13"+13" column (with 1" minimum for stapling) will not fit!

Two choices: buy three more columns worth of GOM, or build the columns smaller. The columns stick out too much into the room already, so I'm exploring smaller speakers. Ideally they would fit in 8.5" deep columns.

Because I'm moving and essentially building the theater for the next owner (I know, I know, *dumb*! It's a pride of completion thing) I don't want to spend a ton on replacing all my speakers. I have Paradigm Monitor 3's as fronts. Atoms are too deep. So, I just bid on some Paradigm Cinema surrounds on ebay (cheap, 6" deep) in hopes that they will reasonably match my Monitor's for movie watching.

One advantage: I won't mind leaving them behind when I go...

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post #564 of 567 Old 04-27-2011, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Speakers it is.

I can pick up Paradigm ADP-170's for ~$100 each on ebay, or Paradigm Cinema surrounds for about half that. Both will fit in a 9" column. Done!

Bought four sheets of 1/2" birch ply and three sheets of 1/2" MDF this weekend. Enough for my columns and an extra sheet or two for fabric frames. Hopefully I can start cutting tonight.

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post #565 of 567 Old 04-30-2011, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I framed up my first two columns. Half inch ply birch ply sides, shelves, back bracing. Half inch MDF strips along the front/back edge of each side, front MDF strips with a 45 degree bevel to match the panels. The whole thing will be wrapped in black GOM.

These two won't hold speakers, they are the front two done as test cases.

I left the top shelf a couple of inches from the end so I can trim the column to fit. The ply is 8' and my ceiling under my light shelf is closer to 7'10".






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post #566 of 567 Old 05-01-2011, 08:04 PM - Thread Starter
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One minor glitch:

I sized both columns so I could trim them to fit the height from the carpet to the bottom of my light shelf. Nothing complicated about that.

The only problem is that the front edge of the light shelf is about a quarter inch lower than the back. Due to the placement of my top cross brace, that is just low enough that there is no way my columns will ever be able to get into place without a teleporter. As I didn't budget for teleportation, I had to install a new lower top brace so I could shave another quarter inch off.

Always plan for actual installation...

Paul Meyer
Bee Cave (Austin), TX

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post #567 of 567 Old 05-08-2011, 08:10 AM - Thread Starter
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First two trial columns are wrapped in GOM and installed! They look great.

A few issues cropped up:
1) The place I wanted the right front column has the air return. I didn't want to move the air return, and I didn't want to shift the column. Solution: notch the column (on the side you can't see from the seats) to let the air in. Eventually I'll paint the grille red to match the panels that will eventually cover the wall.

2) I had 1/2" MDF strips at the front/back of each side of the column for the GOM to stretch across. However, I hadn't put strips across the top/bottom of the sides, nor across the top/bottom of the front. It wasn't until I started to strech the GOM that I realized I needed wood there to give the GOM something to fold over for a reasonable edge. I had to cut some quick pieces and glue them in place. All were easy except one where I ended up needing to use the planer to get a piece of pine down to exactly the right thickness.


Before upholstery:




After covering in GOM:




Now that I've got it down, I've cut all the side pieces for the other four columns (the important ones that will actually hold speakers!).

I've got a pair of Paradigm ADP 170's on their way (ebay, $200). One more pair and I'm good to go.

Paul Meyer
Bee Cave (Austin), TX

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