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post #61 of 567 Old 04-10-2008, 01:08 PM
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Pretty much any of the GOM cloths (there are a couple exceptions) are fine in front of treatments. You'll want to stay with the 701 for in front of speakers.

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post #62 of 567 Old 04-10-2008, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Joy. That wasn't what I wanted to hear. Looking at the GOM site, they have around 50 different styles of fabric (like 701, Anchorage, etc.), and there is no good way to see all the patterns/weaves without order a sample of each! Life would be easier if I had fewer choices (or an easy way to see all of the choices).

I've got burgundy/gray/black 701/Anchorage samples coming, plus some Dazian samples. I'll see how those look and go from there.

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post #63 of 567 Old 04-12-2008, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I got half the floor done in about 3 hours tonight (after spending 2 hours this morning sweeping/vacuuming up drywall dust). Should finish the floor tomorrow. Pictures tomorrow.

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post #64 of 567 Old 04-13-2008, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Half done on the floor.




I believe I have used my drywall elevator for the last time. This was the last full sheet I needed upstairs:






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post #65 of 567 Old 04-13-2008, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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The floor is finished, except for the back right in front of the closet door. I need to shave down a door before I can put the floor there.

Just poking around, I noticed Hsu Research has the VTF3-MK3 on sale again (10% off). It's been at list price for a year (since the last sale I saw last June or so). Two black VTF3-Mk3's on the way! One for center front, one for center back. I'll have to accelerate my receiver research so I can drive the subs when I get them!

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post #66 of 567 Old 04-14-2008, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Floor done (almost). Rack standing in it's spot.




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post #67 of 567 Old 04-14-2008, 06:45 AM
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LOL - Love the elevator.

You'll be using the room in no time.

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post #68 of 567 Old 04-17-2008, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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No real progress this week, but I'm full bore into planning and spending MONEY!

- My two HSU VTF3-Mk3 subs were just delivered.
- I got GOM samples yesterday. (My 5 year old says I can't get 701, I have to get Anchorage. He doesn't like the texture)


- I'm narrowing down my chair choices: 8 Berk 45004's are looking good. A bit wider than the 088's, but not much. I've got cloth/leather samples inbound.

- I've got quite a list growing for monoprice/smarthome/parts-express (wire, crimpers, IR stuff). One of these days I'll push the button on all that.

- I've spent a bunch of time stewing over my front wall design. I like my stage plan (in general), but it definitely needs something to bring the left/right walls forwards. Curtains, or pillars, or columns. Something. No inspiration yet. I'll go back and scrounge other threads for ideas. Ronnie Jackson angled cloth panels are the current leader. They'll make a nice 'back-stage' area for my kids as well.


I might get some work done on Saturday. Sunday is Seaworld.

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post #69 of 567 Old 04-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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I think if I had some fabric choices to make and my 5 year old son didn't like to touch one of them I would order it in an instant. What better way could there be to keep the little tykes from running their hands all over the walls of your theater?

I love NEW technology, it makes the stuff I can afford even cheaper.
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post #70 of 567 Old 04-17-2008, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah, but in my case, my 5 year old is my coworker. Therefore he gets a vote. He helped me put the floor in last weekend. My children were also drove the dimensions of the stage (big!).

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post #71 of 567 Old 04-17-2008, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Big potential slowdown: I just picked up Gran Turismo 5 Prologue. That could suck up some of my free time over the next few weeks.

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post #72 of 567 Old 04-18-2008, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, a bit of a breakthrough. I'm ready to build my stage. I want to build my stage. I've got it planned out. Here is the general stage shape I wanted:



Only problem: it looks lousy. It needs something on the left/right sides to soften the corners, make it not look so deep. Or make the stage shallower (which is a non-starter: my little ballerina set the stage depth). I know I can put something on the left/right (columns, pillars, etc.) to fix it, but I've sketched up various things and didn't like them. I don't want to start the stage construction until I know this depth of stage is going to work.

I went back and browsed the 'show us your screen wall' thread again and like Art's look. So I stole a bit of it and tried it out:



I like it! First try. I can adjust the angle, the texture, the pattern, etc. The panels could be curtains or wood or GOM panels. That can all come later. For now what matters is I know I can get an acceptable (to me) front wall with my current deep stage.

Time to start making sawdust.

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post #73 of 567 Old 04-18-2008, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Ok, a bit of a breakthrough. I'm ready to build my stage. I want to build my stage. I've got it planned out. Here is the general stage shape I wanted:



Only problem: it looks lousy. It needs something on the left/right sides to soften the corners, make it not look so deep. Or make the stage shallower (which is a non-starter: my little ballerina set the stage depth). I know I can put something on the left/right (columns, pillars, etc.) to fix it, but I've sketched up various things and didn't like them. I don't want to start the stage construction until I know this depth of stage is going to work.

I went back and browsed the 'show us your screen wall' thread again and like Art's look. So I stole a bit of it and tried it out:



I like it! First try. I can adjust the angle, the texture, the pattern, etc. The panels could be curtains or wood or GOM panels. That can all come later. For now what matters is I know I can get an acceptable (to me) front wall with my current deep stage.

Time to start making sawdust.

How about making the angled stage additions inverse of your steps? In other words don't make them straight, make them curved in. Does that make sense?

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post #74 of 567 Old 04-18-2008, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Like this?


or even:


I'll need to play with that a bit more. I like the curve idea, though. I think I like the your idea (the first) better.

Thanks!

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post #75 of 567 Old 04-18-2008, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Like this?


I'll need to play with that a bit more. I like the curve idea, though. I think I like the your idea (the first) better.

Thanks!

Yup, that is what I had in mind. Looks pretty cool!

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post #76 of 567 Old 04-19-2008, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Just spent a bunch of money on 'little' stuff. Fortunately I divided it between Blue Jeans, Monoprice, and Smarthome.

- 500 ft of 12awg cl2 speaker cable (for speakers and prewired buttkickers)
- 2-50' sub cables
- 2-45' bjc HDMI cables (not their fanciest, their series 2)
- a 50' component cable
- buffalo IR connecting block, sensor, emitters
- 7 low voltage single gang cover plates, 2 double gang

It's Christmas!

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post #77 of 567 Old 04-19-2008, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought lumber for my stage. Hopefully can get to cutting tonight or this week.




Also, here are my subs. Only opened up one of them so far:


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post #78 of 567 Old 04-21-2008, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Making some stage progress in spite of work and Sea World. Here is the current plan (cross pieces in the front curve and the step are missing):



The main platform is done and the full height pieces are cut for the front. I've got to cut/rip the 4.25" step pieces down and start assembling.

I built the main platform in two parts with the framing nailer, planning on screwing the two parts together as part of some weird though that I could take it apart later if there was an issue. Then I realized it was going to be a pain to screw it into the floor without it shifting, and I didn't feel like finding the studs in the side walls, and there was a bit of a gap at the back I'd need to shim if I wanted to screw it into the back-stage. So I gave up and toe-nailed it into the floor. So much for disassembly...

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post #79 of 567 Old 04-24-2008, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I've just ordered 8 chairs! Should be here in a few weeks. I saved about $800 because some dealer had what I wanted (or very close) sitting in a warehouse in New Mexico after somebody backed out of buying them. They are Berkline 45004's in black microfiber. All with power recline.

They'll look like this:

(picture brazenly borrowed from tech-noid in the gallery...)

But with this cloth covering instead of leather:

(picture brazenly borrowed from a three year old archive thread, posted by Dan Kaps)

The leather would put up with dog hair better, but I'm usually in shorts and a t-shirt and microfiber is just plain more comfortable on a hot day. It's also thousands less expensive.

I'll be doing four straight across in the front row, and likely a loveseat and two individual chairs in the back row (5" more aisle space).

Time to finish the stage and start working on the riser...

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post #80 of 567 Old 04-28-2008, 03:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I've finished my stage. Here's the final shot:



Construction details:
The main part of the stage is simply two frames made of 2x10's, each about 8' long by 2' across. I made them separately and then screwed them together and toe-nailed them into the floor.



The front curved part is more complicated. I used Google Sketchup to model it in 3-d, then measured the length and front angle of each of the front to back 2x9's.


Their length will determine the curvature of the upper part of the front face, so they need to be pretty accurate. I used my miter saw to cut those pieces to length/angle.

Next to each 2x10 is a 2x6 (cut/planed down to 4.25") that will act as a step support and will determine the curvature of the lower part of the front face. I measured the angle for all of those, cut them, and nailed them to the 2x9's.

I cut a 12' 2x10 with a complex left and right ends to act as the back edge of the curved part of the stage. I then nailed the 2x10/2x6 front to back pieces to that, and put in some cross supports to space them out:





The main stage is covered by 3/4" OSB (basically plywood), 2' wide. I scribed out the curved part of the stage with a pencil and a 7'5" wire nailed
to the floor (the top of the stage is an arc of a 7'5" radius circle). I had to do it in two parts (left/right) as the curved part of the stage is
10' wide and wouldn't fit on a single 4x8 sheet of OSB. I cut them out with a jigsaw.

The front of the step is a 8'1" circle. I cut the front curve of the step pieces, set them on top of the stage above where they'd end up and marked
underneath where the front of the supports where. I pulled the pieces off and cut the back edge to match my markings:





[to be continued...]

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post #81 of 567 Old 04-28-2008, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I used 1/4" birch plywood for the curved front of the stage and the curved front under the step. Because the front supports were in the right spots, curving the plywood was easy. I cut a bunch of 4 1/4" pieces on my tablesaw and test fit them. I decided I'd need a bit more support under the front of my step, so I toe-nailed a bunch of 4.25" pieces just behind where the curved front would go. Then I finish nailed the curved pieces on.





The curved pieces are actually two layers of 1/4" plywood. I used my finish nailer to attach the first two pieces (meeting in the middle). I then cut two more pieces to fit (with the seam offset a couple of inches to the left). I spread glue all over the second to pieces and then finish nailed them into place, with a tight fit against the first piece. When the glue dries, those two pieces will essentially be a 1/2" piece of plywood and they'll retain the curve of the stage. The two ply front is also much sturdier and makes me less nervous about toe kicks.

Next, it's time to fill the stage with insulation and attach the top. I want to fill the stage with insulation because any hollow cavity in the home theater is a potential resonance cavity. It could resonate at some particular low frequency and cause sound issues in the room. To avoid this, I stuffed all the cavities with scrap insulation. I have a lot sitting in the attic left over from various phases of the destruction:



The standard way to attach the flooring is to glue it to the joists in addition to nailing or screwing it. That way it won't squeak. I don't want to glue it down in case I ever want to get in there again (not that I'm ever likely to). Instead, I put a layer of roofing felt down on all the joists, and then screwed down the step. Stuff all the cavities with insulation, and nail down the step.



The two ply curved front above the step went in next. This time, the first ply seam was in the middle and the second ply seam was one joist to the left. You can see it (where the grain pattern changes to the left of the clamps). The clamps are holding together a small section where the two plies weren't quite held together by the framing nails.



Then roofing felt, insulation, and the top surface on the curved part of the stage:





Finally, same thing in the rectangular part of the stage:



And she's done...



[to be continued...]

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post #82 of 567 Old 04-28-2008, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Time to test it out. The two stage designers approve of the final product.



Only one thing left to do (someday before carpet). In preparation for carpet, want to make the lip thicker (1.5") and do a full half circle roundover. I'll take some 3/4" plywood scraps, clamp them in place and cut them to match the stage front curve. I'll then round them over on the router table and round over the existing lip with a router in place.

Detail showing the current 1.5-1.75" overhang.



Many thanks to all the riser/stage construction threads out there. I got lots of tips from all of them!

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post #83 of 567 Old 04-28-2008, 04:21 PM
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Nice guide on building the stage, Paul. That should look real nice once you are done.

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post #84 of 567 Old 05-03-2008, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I've gotten a lot out of all the step by step guides, so I figured I'd put mine out there. I need to figure out the keywords folks will use to search for riser building and stick them in: riser building example, Riser step by step, riser construction. I feel like I'm gaming google.

Big progress today, at least psychologically. I installed one of my two doors! I had a very frustrating experience last time I tried to replace a door, and I've procrastinated installing these doors for 6 months.

I'm installing new doors on existing jambs, and I was paranoid they wouldn't line up right once I'd routed the place for the hinges.

Today I found a little porter cable adjustable jig at HD for routing the hinges. It's bit had a 1/4" shank, so I had to pull out my old Craftsman router, but it WORKED! One of my two doors is hung. And, wonder of wonders, it happened to be exactly the right height. No trimming required whatsoever. It even fit the first time.

Sorry, this may seem minor, but it's been hanging over me for a year (even before I bought the doors). And I'm past it!

Pictures tomorrow, company just arrived.

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post #85 of 567 Old 05-04-2008, 10:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is the final result from the outside:



The view from the top of the stairs (as people will be walking in)



Inside view:



The hinges are actually cleanly inset! Impressive for a $20 plastic jig.


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post #86 of 567 Old 05-06-2008, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I need help. Specifically, color scheme help.

I'm leaning towards dark red (burgundy?) and black/grey as a general theme. My gut feel is red walls, black pillars. Black front wall.

I have a complex ceiling. It's got a 16" deep light shelf at 8', with crown molding and a wooden lip. At 9' is a 16" deep soffit. Crown molding between the soffit and the ceiling. Here is a picture of soffit/light-shelf/crown-molding before I destroyed it. It'll end up roughly the same shape:



My problem: what do I do about my light shelf, soffit, crown molding, and ceiling? My leaning is dark ceiling (black, or textured dark gray). I could do the same for the soffits. However, if I paint the crown molding black I think my wife will kill me. As you can see above, it's a nice accent if it's in a contrasting color. Painted black it's kind of a waste... (see below)

Below is my first stab at red/black scheme (I used dark gray so you could actually see any contrast). I like the walls/pillars/screen-wall. I need some color and pattern in the carpet. The ceiling needs work though. Any ideas to get some contrast up there without distracting the eye during a movie?


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post #87 of 567 Old 05-20-2008, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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My chairs are here! 8 black micro-fiber Berkline 45004's, all motorized. Unpacked and spread all over my front room. They really do look 'black', even though the pictures below make them look dark red or brown. Now I just need to get started on my modifications...








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post #88 of 567 Old 05-20-2008, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, here are some measurements I did of my Berkline 45004 chairs for riser calculations. I know I was looking for these before I bought my chairs, so I thought I'd publish mine for future searches:

My 5'4" wife:
Sitting at the upright end of her comfort range:
-eye height 40" - top of head 44"

Sitting at the more reclined end of her comfort range:
-eye height 38" - top of head 42"
-----------------------------
Me (5' 11"):
Sitting at the upright end of my comfort range:
-eye height 39" - top of head 43.5"

Sitting at the more reclined end of my comfort range:
-eye height 34.5" - top of head 38.5"

----------------------------

Distance between rows
(measuring front of chair to front of chair):

5'8" is about the minimum (room to recline, no walking space)

6'8" gives a reasonable space for walking in front of another reclined chair.

Berkline's planner recommends about 42" between rows (front to back), which comes out to about 6'4" spacing.
-----------------------------

I wanted walking space, but I may have to compromise it a bit to avoid making my riser too high, my back row too close to the rear wall, or my front row to close to the screen... Still working the riser calculations.

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post #89 of 567 Old 05-21-2008, 09:11 AM
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Looking good Paul

In the ceiling area, you could just do tone on tone and use a darker grey on the sides of the levels and black on the bottoms.

Bryan

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post #90 of 567 Old 05-21-2008, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Bryan. I've since realized that my crown molding is not in line of sight to the screen in the front. I can therefore possibly get away with a bit of contrast there and lighten up the molding. That'll make my wife happy.

I guess that leaves me leaning towards:

- bottom/front of light-shelf/soffit: black
- crown molding and shelf lip: lighter color (grey? gold?)
- walls: dark red GOM
- columns: black GOM


Paul Meyer
Bee Cave (Austin), TX

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